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Ihis  book  may  be  kept  out  TWO  WEEKS 
ONLY,  and  is  subject  to  a  fine  of  FIVE 
CENTS  a  day  thereafter.  It  is  due  on  the 
day   indicated   below: 


4A]vSSt 


AN  2  4  im 


)M— D47— Form  3 


BULBS; 


A    TREATISE    OS 


Hardy  and  Tender  Bulbs 
AND  Tubers, 


BY 

EDWARD    SPRAGUE    RAXD,   Jr.., 

Author  of  "  Flowers  for  the  Parlor  and  Garden,"   "  Garden  riowers,"  S;c 


BOSTON  : 

J.    E.    TILTON    AXD    COMPANY. 

IS66. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1866,  by 

EDWARD   SPRAGUE   RAND,   Jr., 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  District  of  Massachusetts. 


Stereotyped   by   C.    J.   Peters   &   Son, 
13  Washington  St.,  Boston. 


Presswork  by  John  Wilson  &  Son. 


To 


Dr.  William  R.  Lawrence, 


THIS     VOLUME 


IS    CORDIALLY    INSCRIBED. 


570*73 


INTRODUCTION. 


The  plants  of  which  the  present  volume  treats  are 
among  the  most  beautiful  in  the  floral  kingdom.  While 
comparatively  few  are  indigenous  to  Northern  climes, 
and  many  are  natives  of  the  torrid  zone,  most  of 
them  may  be  grown  with  but  a  slight  outlay;  and  the 
garden,  frame,  and  greenliouse  may  be  gay  at  every 
season  of  the  year  with  their  gorgeous  blossoms. 

Many  of  them  are  also  admirably  suited  for  window- 
culture,  and,  though  generally  not  ornamental  in  foli- 
age, flower  freely  in  the  parlor,  and  stand  well  the 
heat  of  furnaces,  and  the  poisonous  gas  which  impreg- 
nates the  air  wherever  gas  is  used  for  lighting.  Dur- 
ing their  period  of  growth,  which  is  the  season  at  which 
they  are  generally  in  the  parlor,  they  wiU  bear  any 
quantity  of  water;  and  therefore  one  of  the  great 
mistakes  in  parlor-culture  —  over-watering  —  cannot 
be  committed. 

Most  of  those  ordinarily  grown  in  the  parlor  bloom 

6 


6  INTRODUCTION. 

ill  winter,  and,  in  summer,  need  only  to  be  dried  off 
in  a  cellar  or  on  a  closet-slielf. 

They  are  subject  to  few  diseases,  and  insects  seldom 
attack  them.  All  these  are  great  recommendations ; 
and  when  we  add  that  the  blossoms  are  not  only  very 
showy,  but,  in  many  species,  also  delightfully  fra- 
grant, we  have  said  enough  to  cause  them  to  be  gen- 
erally cultivated. 

In  the  garden,  also,  they  play  an  important  part ; 
beginning  to  bloom  with  the  early  snowdrop,  which 
looks  out  with  timid  eyes  upon  the  storms  of  Feb- 
ruary ;  and  ending  only  with  the  adventurous  col- 
chicum,  which,  heedless  of  fading  leaves  and  frowning 
skies,  thrusts  up  its  delicate  blossoms  of  purple  or 
white  in  the  short  November  days,  as  if  to  bid  a  fare- 
well to  the  dying  year. 

The  culture  of  bulbs  is  yet  in  its  infancy.  As  a 
class,  these  plants  are  every  year  attracting  more 
attention ;  and  the  time  is  not  far  distant  when  the 
skill  of  the  hybridist  and  the  researches  of  collect- 
ors will  greatly  increase  our  number  of  species  and 
varieties. 

If  we  may  take  the  hyacinth  for  an  instance,  where, 
from  a  single  original  species,  all  the  numberless 
forms  now  in  cultivation  have  been  derived,  or,  what 


INTRODUCTION.  7 

are,  perhaps,  better  examples,  the  amaryllis  and 
gladioUis,  where  a  few  species  have  produced  count- 
less varieties,  most  of  which  excel  any  of  the  parents 
in  beauty,  we  see  how  wide  a  field  is  open ;  while, 
at  the  same  time,  it  is  impossible  to  predict  the  result, 
or  to  imagine  the  improvements,  which  the  future  may 
witness,  or  the  beauty  which  may  be  born  under  the 
skilful  application  of  systematic  culture.  Perhaps 
the  most  remarkable  discovery  in  this  class  of  plants 
within  the  last  few  years  is  the  golden-banded  lily 
(^Lil'ium  auratum),  the  beauty  of  which  it  would  be 
difficult  to  describe;  but  we  see  no  reason  to  doubt 
that  future  explorations  may  give  us  equally  valuable 
additions,  though  perhaps  not  in  the  lily  family.  This 
same  lily  flxmily  offers  a  most  tempting  opportunity 
for  hybridization,  both  from  the  facility  with  which 
it  may  be  performed,  and  the  beauty  of  the  subjects ; 
and  in  this  field  we  may  hope  for  great  results  in  the 
future. 

We  must  also  bear  in  mind  that  many  of  the  regions 
most  prolific  in  bulbs  are,  as  yet,  imperfectly  explored 
by  botanists,  and  that  scientific  research  may  lead  to 
great  developments. 

South  Africa  has  probably  many  valuable  discov- 
eries yet  to  yield,  and  the  rich  fields  of  California  and 


8  INTRODUCTION. 

the  Pacific  coast  are  prolific  of  other  treasures  than 
golden  ore. 

The  want  of  a  volume  on  this  subject  has  long  been 
felt  by  culturists.  The  elaborate  work  of  Mrs.  Lou- 
don was  useful  in  its  day,  though  Avanting  in  practical 
directions ;  but  it  has  long  been  out  of  print,  and  its 
cost  would  render  it  inaccessible  to  the  masses. 

The  learned  treatises  of  Herbert  can  never  be 
excelled  in  elaboration  of  detail ;  but  they  are  too 
scientific  for  the  popular  mind,  and  only  cover  a  small 
portion  of  the  immense  field  upon  which  instruction 
is  required. 

It  is  to  meet  this  want  that  the  present  volume  has 
been  undertaken.  Its  aim  is  to  give  a  book  of  popular 
culture,  botanically  correct  as  far  as  the  science  of 
botany  is  within  its  scope,  but  generally  adapted  to 
popular  use,  and  intelligible  to  the  large  class  who  are 
ardent  culturists,  but  have  little  time  for  the  study  of 
botany ;  to  make  the  culture  of  flowers  a  necessity, 
feeling  that  the  inquiring  mind  Avill  turn  from  the 
growing  plant  to  study  how  it  grows. 

This  volume  is  the  third  of  a  series  of  works  on 
popular  gardening;  of  which,  two,  "Flowers  for  the 
Parlor  and  Garden,"  and  "  Garden  Flowers,"  are  al- 
ready before  the  public.  A  volume  of  Orchid  Culture" 


INTRODUCTION.  9 

is  already  in  press;  and  theother  volumes  on  "  Green- 
house Flowers,"  "  Wild  Flowers,"  and  "Ferns,  Lich- 
ens, and  flosses,"  are  in  preparation. 

The  whole,  when  completed,  will  form  a  library  of 
practical  culture,  which  the  author  trusts  may  be  the 
means  of  advancing  the  cause  of  floriculture,  and 
prove  a  practical  benefit  to  horticultural  science. 

Many  of  the  bulbs  described  as  tender,  and  for 
which  greenhouse  treatment  is  directed,  may  prove 
hardy  in  the  Middle  States,  and  undoubtedly  would 
in  all  States  south  of  the  latitude  of  Washington. 
The  volume  is  written  for  the  latitude  of  Massachu- 
setts, and  due  allowance  must  be  made  by  readers 
living  either  North  or  South.  As  we  have  often  had 
occasion  to  observe,  the  proper  application  of  the 
word  "  hardy  "  is  a  source  of  great  difSculty  to  the 
horticultural  writer,  as  the  hardiness  of  a  plant  is  reg- 
ulated by  so  many  circumstances  other  than  mere 
temperature.  In  many  cases,  the  fact  can  only  be 
determined  by  experiment,  and  each  must  be  his  own 
judge.  A  volume  can  lay  down  only  general  rules,  to 
which  each  reader  may,  perchance,  find  his  own 
exceptions. 

There  is  no  prettier  culture  than  that  of  bulbs.  To 
watch  the  foliage   and  flower  gradually   developing 


10  INTRODUCTION. 

from  the  bulb  is  pleasing  and  instructive,  and  can- 
not fail  to  direct  the  thinking  mind  to  the  Author  of 
all,  who,  in  so  many  diverse  and  yet  ever-beautifiil 
and  wondrous  ways,  has  caused  the  earth  to  bring 
forth  abundantly  all  that  can  minister  to  the  wants  or 
the  gratification  of  man. 

Glen  Ridge,  August,  WiCi. 


CONTENTS, 


PAGE 

What  ark  Bulbs? .      17 


Gkxeral  Rules  of  Culture       .       .       , 20 

Preparation  of  Soil.  — Application  of  Manure     ....     35 


Bulb  Cases.  — Growth  of  Bulbs  in  Wardian  Cases.  — In  Water. 
—  In  VE(iETABLES.  — In  Moss.  — In  Sand.  — CROCUs-rors   .       .     42 


Diseases     and     Insects.  —  Premature     Flowering.  —  Tardy 
Flowering.  —  Red    Spider.  — (jIueen-Fly.  —  :Mkaly    Bug. — 

Sc.vLE.  — Mildew.  — Rot 51 

11 


12  '  CONTENTS. 


VI. 

PAGE 

The  Hyacimtii.  —  Scilla.—Urginea.--Myogalum.  — Narcissus  .     ci 


VII. 

The  Snowdrop.  — The  Leucojum.  — The  Crocus       .      .       .       .     9S 


vin. 

The   Tulip.  — The  Iris.  — The   Morea.  — The  Herbertia.  — The 
Cypella.  — The  Phalocallis.  —  The  Yieusseuxia       .       .       .    109 


IX. 

The  Ranunculus  and  the  Anemone   .......  132 


X. 

The  Oxalis.  — The  Ixia.  — The  Babiana.  —  The  Sparaxis.  — The 
Tritonia.  — The  Geissorhiza 141 


XI 
The  Lily 159 


XII 

The  Frittelaria.  — The  Ferraria.  — The  Allium,— The  Orni- 
thogalum 170 


CONTENTS.  13 


XIII. 

PAGE 

The   Gladiolus.  — The   Tiguidia.— Thk   Wat.S(>nia.  — Tuic   Syn- 

NOTIA.  — The    AxOMATHiiCA.  —  THIi    Antholvza.  —  THE     KlGl- 

dklla 179 


XIV. 

The  Amauyllis.— The  IIirpEASTHUM.  — The  Sprekelia.— The 
Vallota.— Tin;  Lycokis.  — The  rYitoMiuox.  — The  Nerine. 
—  Tjie  Zephykanthk.s 200 


XV. 

The  Tuueuose.  — The   Cyclamen. —  The  Dahlia.  — The  Comme- 
LiNA.  — The  Salvia.  — The  Asclepias.  — The  Apios    .       .       .    215 


XVI. 

The  Erythiioxium.  — The  Bllbocodium.  — The  Colchicl-m.  — The 
Eranthes.  — The  Trop.eolum.- The  Operanthus.  — The  Mus- 
cARi.— The  Lachexalia.— The  Sterxbekgia      .       .       .       .230 

XVII. 

The  Arum.  — The  Calocasia.  — The  Erythrixa.  — The  Caxna.— 
The  Dicextra.  — The  Saxguinaria.  — The  Richardia.  —  The 
Trillium 238 

XVIII. 

The  Caladium.  — The  Crixum.  — The  Clivea.  — The  Elcharis.- 
The  Grifeixia.  — The  Cyrtaxthus.  — The  II.emaxthus.  — The 
Ukuxsvigia.  — The  Eucomis 248 


li  CONTENTS. 


X/X. 

PAGE 

The  Aciumenes.  — The  Gloxinia.  — The  Gesnera      ....    259 


XX. 

The  Pextlandia.  —  The  Homeria.  —  The  TIexaglottis.  —  The 
Trichonema.  — The  Galaxia.  — The  Lapeykousia.  — The  Hes- 
peraxtha.  —  The  Wachendorfia.  —  The  Hypoxis.  —  The 
CooPERiA.  —  The  Haylockia.  —  The  Androcymbium.  —  The 
Blandfordia.  —  The  Bravoa.  —  The  Caloscordum.  —  The 
MiLLA.  — The  Elisena.  — The  Ismene.  — The  Pancratium.— 
The  Carpodetes.  — The  Daubexya.  — The  Carpolysa.  — The 
llABUANTnus.  —  The  Ixiolirion.  —  The  Phycelea.  —  The 
Chloretis.  — The  Strumaria,  — The  Coburgia.  — The  Gastro- 
NEMA.— The  Chlidanthus.  —  The  Urceolina.  — The  Steno- 
MESsoN.  —  The  FouacROYA.  —  The  Eucrosia.  —  The  Calos- 
TEMMA.  — The  Eurycles.  — The  Gloriosa,  — The  Hydrot.enia. 

—  The  Hymenocallis.  — The  Gethyllis.  —  The  Lidebouria. — 
The  Veltheimia.  — The  Cyanella.  —  The  RhixoPetalum.— 
The  Libertia.  --  The  Ph.edranassa.—  The  Brodi.ea.  —  The 
3IASSONIA.  — The  Puschkinia.  — The  Caliprora.  — The  Camas- 
siA.  — The  Melanthium.  — The  Montbrettia.  —  The  Bessera. 

—  The  Nectaroscordum.- The  Calochortus.  —  The  Cyclo- 
,     BOTHRA.  — The  Plantia.  — The   Leucocoryne.— The   Belee- 

VALiA.  — The  Albuca.  — The  Gagea.— The  Barnardia.  — The 
Hesperascordium.  — The  Drimea.  — The  Eriospermum.  — The 
Spatalanthus.  —  The  Conanthera.  — The  Cu^mixGiA.  —  The 
Uropetalon.  — The  Streptanthera.  — The  Tritelia        .       .    2G7 


IXD^X 293 


BULBS. 


WHAT   ARE   BULBS? 


OTANICALLY  speaking,  a  bulb  is  an 
underground  stem,  and,  though  generally- 
considered  a  root,  partakes  more  of  the  na- 
ture of  a  seed. 

Strictly,  there  are  but  three  kinds  of 
bulbs,  —  the  coated,  such  as  the  hyacinth  and 
onion,  where  the  scales  are  large,  and,  fold- 
ing around  each  other,  form  the  bulb  ;  tlie  scaly,  of  which 
the  lily  is  the  familiar  example,  which  consist  of  narrow, 
fleshy  scales,  united  at  the  base  ;  and  the  solid  bulbs,  or 
corms,  such  as  the  gladiolus  and  crocus,  which  consist  of  a 
solid,  white,  farinaceous  mass,  and  which,  perhaps,  may  be 
considered  as  a  sort  of  rounded  tuber. 

In  popular  parlance,  however,  almost  any  solid,  under- 
ground stem  is  called  a  bulb  ;  and  under  this  name  are 
included  many  true  tubers,  which,  in  reality,  possess  little 
of  the  bulbous  nature. 

2  17 


18  WHAT  ARE  BULBS? 

A  familiar  example  of  this  is  the  well-known  tuberose 
{Polianthes  tuherosa),  called  a  tuberose  from  its  tuberous 
root,  and  not,  as  commonly  conceived,  from  being  a  "  rose 
with  a  tube,"  and  a  true  tuber,  but  which  is  usually  consid- 
ered a  bulb. 

As  we  have  said,  the  bulb  partakes  more  of  the  nature 
of  a  seed ;  that  is,  when  planted,  it  sends  forth  roots  into 
the  earth,  and  an  ascending  shoot  to  the  upper  air,  as  a  seed 
does  in  vegetation  ;  and,  as  in  the  case  of  a  seed,  the  young 
plant  is  nourished  by  the  starchy  matter  contained  in  the 
bulb,  in  the  same  manner  as  by  that  stored  in  the  seed. 
The  seed,  however,  having  given  birth  to  the  plant,  wastes 
away,  and  is  lost ;  but  the  bulb,  to  all  appearance,  re- 
mains the  same.  This  latter  is,  in  truth,  not  the  case. 
Each  year,  the  old  tissue  of  the  bulb  is  consumed  by  the 
plant,  and  replaced  by  new,  though  often  in  such  a  way 
that  it  is  imperceptible  to  the  careless  eye. 

A  seed  also  sends  up  a  stem  which  produces  leaves  and 
branches,  or  rather  buds,  which  become  developed  as  such  ; 
but  a  bulb  only  sends  up  leaves  and  a  flower-stem.  There 
are,  however,  some  bulbs  which  produce  little  bulbs,  or 
bulblets,  in  the  axils  of  the  leaves. 

The  primary  use  of  the  bulb  is  to  store  up  nourishment 


WHAT  ARE   BULBS?  19 

for  the  development  of  the  leaves  and  flowers.  The  period 
required  to  perfect  this  process,  or,  in  gardeners'  language, 
to  make  the  bulb  "  strong  enough  to  bloom^"  is  widely 
different  in  different  species,  and  even  varies  much  in  the 
same  species,  according  to  mode  of  growth  and  favorable 
or  unfavorable  circumstances. 

Some  bulbs  and  tubers  require  years  before  a  sufficient 
stock  of  feculent  matter  is  accumulated :  others  in  a  few 
months  gain  strength  enough  to  nourish  the  flower.  The 
mode  by  which  this  store  is  laid  up  is  by  no  means  different 
from  that  by  which  all  plants  assimilate  to  their  own  sup- 
port the  elements  of  earth,  air,  and  water.  It  is  effected  by 
means  of  the  roots  and  leaves,  or  foliage,  and  only  differs 
in  the  place  of  deposit. 

In  all  bulbs,  tubers,  and  fleshy  root-stalks,  this  nutriment 
is  laid  up  in  the  earth,  and  the  leaves  mostly  die  annually, 
or  take  a  season  of  rest :  and  hence  we  see  the  pertinence 
and  force  of  the  old  gardener's  adage,  "  Fine  flowers,  large 
leaves  ; "  as,  without  a  full  development  of  foliage,  it  is  use- 
less to  expect  a  perfection  of  bloom.  Were  the  leaves  of  a 
bulb  to  be  cut  off  as  fast  as  they  appear,  the  bulb  would 
perish  :  therefore,  if  we  would  allow  them  their  full  action 
for  the  perfection  of  the  bulb,  they  should  never  be  cut  off 


20  WHAT  ARE  BULBS? 

until  they  begin  to  turn  brown  and  wither,  which  is  a  sure 
sign  the  circulation  of  the  sap  has  ceased ;  and  then  they 
will  readily  come  away  from  the  bulb. 

As  our  present  treatise  is  for  popular  gardening,  we  shall 
include  under  the  general  name  of  bulbs  many  true  tubers, 
to  which  the  general  rules  of  bulb-culture  are  applicable. 
All  bulbs  require  a  season  of  rest :  this  takes  place  after 
the  plant  has  produced  its  bloom,  stored  up  the  nourishment 
for  the  growth  of  the  coming  year,  and  ripened  its  seed. 
The  foliage  turns  yellow,  and  falls  off  (except  in  the  case  of 
evergreen  bulbs,  which  preserve  them  green,  but  without 
growth)  ;  and  the  bulb,  save  its  fresh,  plump  appearance, 
preserves  no  sign  of  vitality.  This  season  of  rest  varies 
greatly  in  time  and  duration ;  in  some  being  very  short,  in 
others  very  long.  In  some,  we  can  change  it  indefinitely ; 
as  gardeners  say,  the  bulb  "  forces  well,"  that  is,  may  be 
forced  into  bloom  at  any  season :  while  others  "  force 
badly ; "  that  is,  can  only  be  had  in  perfection  at  certain 
seasons. 

Bulbs  which  flower  in  early  spring,  such  as  crocus, 
Persian  iris,  frittelaria,  snowdrop,  tulip,  and  hyacinth, 
rest  from  June  or  July  until  October,  when  their  roots 
begin  to  grow  ;  but  the  leaves  do  not  appear  until  the  next 


WHAT   ARE   BULBS?  21 

spring.  Lilies  go  to  rest  immediately  after  flowering,  and 
seldom  grow  until  late  in  the  spring,  except  the  white  lily 
{L.  candidum)  and  its  varieties,  which  make  their  growth 
in  the  autumn  preparatory  to  blooming  in  early  summer. 
Of  this  same  nature  are  the  many  varieties  of  polyanthus 
narcissus,  and  iris  Susiana,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of 
the  family,  which  in  New  England  almost  always  make  a 
fall  growth,  and,  unless  very  well  protected,  has  the  young 
growth  killed  by  the  winter,  and  the  bulb  perishes. 

Some  bulbs,  of  which  the  colchicum  is  the  best  example, 
bloom  late  in  the  autumn,  and  perfect  their  growth  of 
foliage  and  the  seed  the  folloAving  spring.  In  some,  as  with 
the  well-known  Jacobean  lily  (Sprehelia  formosissima)  and 
Belladonna  lily  (Amaryllis  Belladonna),  the  flower-stalk 
springs  from  the  naked  bulb,  and  the  growth  of  leaves 
follows;  while  in  others  —  as,  for  example,  the  tall  white 
star  of  Bethlehem  {Ornithogalum  pyramidale) — the  flower- 
stalk  pushes  up  after  the  foliage  has  decayed. 

In  many  bulbs,  as  the  hyacinth  and  narcissus,  the  flower- 
stalk  springs  from  the  centre  of  the  crown  of  leaves,  on  a 
separate  stalk;  in  others,  as  in*  some  amaryllis,  it  is  pro- 
duced from  the  side  of  the  bulb,  and  the  leaves  from  the 
top  :  and  these  two  modes  of  growth  sometimes  occur  in  the 
same  family. 


22  WHAT   ARE   BULBS? 

The  flower  may  also  be  upon  the  same  stalk  with  the 
foliage,  as  ia  the  well-known  crown  imperial  {Frittelaria 
imperialis)  and  many  other  well-known  bulbs.  In  fact, 
these  peculiarities  are  infinite  ;  and  it  is  to  these  little  differ- 
ences that  we  owe  much  of  the  pleasure  we  derive  in  the 
culture  of  flowers.  A  new  interest  is  constantly  upspringing 
in  the  mind  ;  and  the  love  of  Nature  insensibly  intwines 
around  the  soul,  until  it  becomes  a  part  of  our  nature. 

As  we  have  seen  that  each  bulb  has  its  season  of  rest,  it 
would  follow  that  all  bulbs  should,  during  that  season,  have 
nothing  to  excite  their  dormant  powers  and  to  urge  them  to 
growth.  With  most  bulbs,  this  is  afforded  by  taking  them 
out  of  the  earth,  and  preserving  them  in  a  perfectly  dry 
place,  or  with  many  bulbs  grown  in  pots  by  withholding 
water",  and  "  drying  them  off." 

Bulbs  which  preserve  an  evergreen  foliage  are,  of  course, 
never  wholly  " dried  off;"  but  water  is  given  very  sparingly, 
and  only  enough  to  keep  the  leaves  from  fading  and  the 
bulbs  from  shrivelling. 

Care  must  always  be  taken,  in  drying  off  bulbs,  not  to 
dry  them  up,  as  thus  many  small  bulbs  perish.  The  bulbs 
must  be  kept  fresh  and  plump,  but  not  excited  to  growth. 
The  degree  of  dryness  each  species  or  variety  will  bear  is 


WHAT  ARE   BULBS?  23 

best  learned  by  experience  ;  but  an  attempt  will  be  made  to 
give  the  rules  for  each  case,  under  its  appropriate  head,  in 
the  following  pages. 

Some  hardy  bulbs  do  better  if  taken  from  the  ground  as 
soon  as  they  have  matured  their  growth,  and  wrapped  in 
dry  paper,  and  thus  kept  until  the  season  for  replanting : 
this,  indeed,  is  the  general  practice  abroad  with  "  Holland 
bulbs."  Others,  again,  do  far  better  if  left  in  the  ground 
undisturbed  for  years.  Bulbs  grown  in  water  (if  desirable 
to  preserve  them)  should  be  planted  in  soil  as  soon  as  the 
bloom  fades ;  as,  otherwise,  the  store  of  nourishment  is 
exhausted,  no  new  nutriment  is  laid  up,  and  the  bulb 
consequently  perishes,  or  does  not  bloom  again  for  years. 
We  have  said  that  the  old  bulb  is  consumed  each  year,  and 
a  new  bulb  formed.  This  is  done  in  many  ways.  'Some- 
times it  is  formed  in  the  centre  of  the  bulb,  as  in  the 
hyacinth  ;  sometimes  it  appears  on  the  side,  as  in  the  tulip  ; 
sometimes  on  top,  as  in  the  crocus  and  gladiolus ;  and 
sometimes  on  the  bottom,  as  in  the  bulbous  iris. 

Thus  the  crocus  grows  out  of  the  ground  each  year,  the  iris 
buries  itself,  and  the  tulips  move  away  from  their  original 
position.  Many  fleshy  root-stalks  also  move  ;  the  new  bud 
being  produced  beyond  the  old  one,  and  sometimes  several 


24  WHAT  ARE  BULBS? 

inches  distant.  This  is  an  additional  reason  for  occasion- 
ally taking  up  all  bulbs,  as  many  are  annually  lost  from  a 
want  of  this  simple  precaution.  Another  reason  is,  that 
the  bulb,  if  left  in  the  ground,  is  often  too  early  stimulated 
into  growth.  If,  however,  we  do  not  care  for  the  finest 
bloom,  but  are  content  with  a  good  display,  all  common 
hardy  bulbs  may  be  left  in  the  ground  undisturbed  for  three 
or  four  years,  if  once  carefully  planted. 

Bulbs  are  propagated  by  offsets,  or  small  bulbs,  which 
are  produced  at  the  base  of  the  root,  or  parent  bulbs, 
and  in  the  axils  of  the  leaves,  and  occasionally  as  flower- 
buds,  and  which  soon  produce  flowering  plants.  They  are 
also  raised  from  seed,  which,  however,  seldom  produces  a 
flowering  plant  in  less  than  three  years.  The  scaly  bulbs 
may  be  propagated  by  planting  the  scales  in  sand ;  each 
scale,  in  time,  producing  a  new  bulb.  Hyacinths,  gladiolus, 
and  some  other  bulbs,  are  occasionally  increased  by  cutting 
the  old  bulb  into  pieces  ;  each  portion  being  forced  to  put 
forth  a  new  shoot  and  roots.  The  two  former  methods  are 
those  used  by  Nature  :  the  latter  we  owe  to  the  skill  of  the 
gardener. 

All  bulbs  are  monocotyledons  or  endogens :  that  is,  the 
embryo,  or  cotyledon,  has  but  one  leaf,  and  the  leaves  are 


WHAT   ARE   BULBS?  25 

almost  always  parallel-veined,  without  any,  or  very  slight, 
ramifications ;  while  those  of  dycotyledonous  plants,  or 
plants  having  two  seed-leaves,  are  strongly  reticulated. 

As  a  class,  bulbs  are  most  interesting,  whether  we  regard 
the  facility  with  which  they  can  be  cultivated,  or  the  variety, 
profusion,  and  brilliancy  of  their  flowers.  A  bulb-bed  can 
be  gay  every  month,  from  early  April  to  November ;  and 
the  brilliancy  of  their  bloom  is  unrivalled  in  the  floral  king- 
dom. Their  name  is  Legion,  and  many  of  the  rarer  species 
are  no  less  curious  than  beautiful.  Their  greenhouse  and 
parlor  culture  is  very  simple,  and  the  flower  Avell  repays 
the  necessary  care. 

A  bulb-case  in  a  south  window,  and  a  bulb-bed  under  it, 
will  give  us  flowers  from  January  to  December,  as  we 
begin  the  year  with  fragrant  hyacinths,  and  enjoy,  in  turn, 
the  ever-welcome  snowdrop,  the  gay  crocus,  the  delicate 
iris,  the  modest  erythrouium,  the  gaudy  tulip,  scented  hya- 
cinths, brilliant  narcissus,  stately  lilies,  gladiolus,  tigridias, 
and  tardy  colchicum,  till  the  double  Roman  narcissus  once 
again  bids  us  a  merry  Christmas  and  a  happy  New  Year. 


II. 


GENERAL  EULES  OF  CULTURE. 


S  we  have  seen  that  the  bulb  is  renewed 
yearly,  it  follows  that  the  chief  end  of  cul- 
ture should  be  to  facilitate  this  renewal, 
especially  if  we  wish  the  plant  to  grow 
stronger  year  by  year,  or  to  increase  by 
offsets. 

In  ordinary  house-culture,  this  end  is 
entirely  lost  sight  of.  The  bulb  is  grown  for  the  flower, 
which,  being  already  formed  when  the  bulb  is  planted,  is 
only  developed  and  brought  to  perfection.  When  the 
flower  has  faded,  the  bulb  is  cast  aside,  and  no  further  care 
is  given  ;  and  as  a  natural  consequence,  even  if  the  bulb 
survives  until  another  season,  the  flower  (if  it  bloom  at  all) 
is  poor,  weak,  and  worthless. 

The  primary  rule  in  bulb-culture  is,  grow  the  foliage  well. 
The  stronger  and  more  vigorous  the  leaves  are,  the  stronger 

will  be  the  bulb,  and,  consequently,  the  larger  and  finer 
26 


GENERAL  RULES  OF  CULTURE.         27 

the  bloom.  Neglect  of  this  first  rule  is  the  cause  of  most 
failures.  To  bloom  the  bulbs  Avell  the  first  year  is  easy : 
you  have  only  to  develop  what  auother  has  prepared :  the 
success  can  hardly  be  called  your  own.  But  if,  the  second 
year,  you  can  produce  as  fine,  or  even  finer  flowers,  you 
may  well  claim  to  possess  skill  in  bulb-culture. 

While,  however,  we  may  not  care  to  take  the  trouble  to 
grow  our  bulbs  well,  so  as  to  produce  finer  bloom  year  by 
year,  it  may  be  well  to  know  how  to  do  it.  The  present 
great  mart  for  the  more  common  bulbs  is  Holland,  where 
bulb-culture  is  the  business  of  many  principal  horticul- 
turists, by  whom  the  foreign  market  is  supplied.  This 
business  has  been  carried  on  so  extensively  for  many  years, 
that  certain  exotic  bulbs,  such  as  tulips,  hyacinths,  and 
crocus,  are  generally  known  as  "  Dutch  or  Holland  bulbs." 
These  bulbs  are  raised  in  such  quantities,  and  are  so  cheap, 
that,  in  this  country,  it  is  easier  to  import  bulbs  than  to 
raise  them  :  so  that  the  bulbs  Avhicli  have  flowered  in  the 
winter  are  usually  thrown  away,  or  planted  in  some  corner 
of  the  garden,  where  they  come  up,  and  bloom  year  after 
year,  and  occasionally  produce  fine  flowers. 

The  rarer  bulbs  are  more  cared  for,  as  they  are  much 
more  ditficult  to  procure,  and  far  more  expensive.      The 


28         GENERAL  RULES  OF  CULTURE. 

same   general   rules   of  culture,  however,   apply  to   both, 
whether  they  are  hardy  or  tender. 

Imported  bulbs  are  often  weak  from  being  kept  a  long 
time  out  of  the  ground :  this  is  especially  the  case  with 
lilies  and  erythroniums,  of  which  a  large  proportion  never 
survive  the  first  winter :  crocus  and  hyacinths,  being  of  a 
different  nature,  are  seldom  injured.  The  bulbs  should  be 
planted  at  once  in  proper  soil,  according  to  the  species : 
if  out  of  doors,  in  a  well-drained  bed  ;  if  in  doors,  in  well- 
drained  pots.  There  are  few  bulbs  which  need  a  wet  situ- 
ation, and  all  are  impatient  of  standing  water :  therefore, 
to  secure  good  drainage  is  one  of  the  points  of  primary 
importance  in  bulb-culture.  Hardy  bulbs  may  be  planted 
as  late  as  the  ground  keeps  open ;  and  we  have  often  set 
them  out  when  it  was  necessary  to  take  off  a  thick  crust  of 
frozen  earth  before  we  found  ground  soft  enough  to  work. 
In  one  instance,  a  lot  of  hyacinths  and  crocus,  received 
very  late,  were  planted  in  the  frozen  ground  (the  holes  being 
made  with  a  crowbar),  and  the  next  spring  showed  a  fine  lot 
of  flowers,  but  little  later  than,  or  inferior  to,  those  planted 
earlier.  It  should,  however,  be  stated,  that  the  winter  was 
most  favorable  to  the  winter-growth  of  the  bulbs  ;  the  earth 
being  covered  with  snow,  and  the  frost  never  penetrating  to 


GENERAL  RULES  OF  CULTURE.  29 

any  great  depth  :  had  the  winter  been  "  open,"  all  the  bulbs 
■vvonld  have  perished.  As  a  general  rule,  the  bulbs  should 
be  planted  in  October,  that  the  roots  may  make  a  good 
growth  before  the  cold  weather  sets  in. 

The  mode  of  planting  must  vary  according  to  various 
tastes ;  but  generally  the  bulbs  should  be  so  grouped  as 
to  give  the  most  effect  when  in  blossom.  Thus  snow- 
drops, crocus,  erythroniums,  Persian  iris,  and  other  small 
bulbs,  should  never  be  planted  singly,  but  always  in  clumps, 
the  larger  the  better ;  the  single  bulbs  about  an  inch  apart 
every  way,  or  in  triple  lines  as  an  edging  to  a  bed. 
Hyacinths,  narcissus,  and  other  large  bulbs,  may  be  planted 
singly  or  in  lines,  but  are  far  more  effective  planted  in 
threes ;  that  is,  one  at  each  point  of  a  triangle,  each  bulb 
about  nine  inches  from  the  others.  A  combination  of  colors 
may  often  thus  be  very  prettily  contrived. 

The  bulbs  should  never  be  mixed.  Let  each  kind  be 
planted  in  masses  by  itself,  if  the  full  effect  of  each  be 
desired.  We  have  often  seen  a  mixture  of  crocus  and 
snowdrops  by  which  the  snowdrops  were  entirely  lost, 
their  simple  beauty  being  wholly  neutralized  by  the  more 
gaudy  colors  of  the  crocus.  Hyacinths  and  narcissus  do 
not  accord  well  together,  nor  do  jonquils  and  frittelarias 


30  GENERAL  RULES  OF  CULTURE. 

(jP.  meleagris).  Crown  imperials  (Frittelaria  imperiaUs) 
should  stand  by  themselves  in  clumps :  if  planted  iu 
mixture  with  smaller  bulbs,  they  cause  them  to  appear 
insignificant  by  their  stately  growth.  "^ 

In  arrangement,  again,  the  smaller  bulbs  should  be 
planted  in  the  foreground,  the  taller  growers  behind :  thus 
each,  when  iu  bloom,  appears  to  the  best  advantage. 

Much  may  be  effected  by  a  tasteful  arrangement  of 
colors :  clumps  of  white,  blue,  yellow,  and  purple  crocus, 
planted  alternately  with  broad  belts  of  snowdrops,  are  very 
showy. 

As  a  general  rule,  stakes  marked  with  the  names  of 
varieties  are  unsightly,  as  too  conspicuous.  Most  bulbs  are 
low  growers  ;  and  while  it  may  be  interesting  to  know  the 
name  of  a  showy  variety,  yet  to  have  it  forced  upon  the 
attention  by  a  painted  stake  robs  the  flower  of  much  of  its 
effect.  Where  care  has  been  taken  in  the  selection  of 
varieties  (and  named  varieties  are  always  the  best,  and 
give  more  satisfaction),  it  is  well  to  preserve  the  names; 
which  may  very  easily  be  done  by  having  a  plan  of  the 
bulb  bed  drawn  on  a  sheet  of  paper,  and  the  proper  position 
of  each  species  and  variety  indicated  by  a  figure  refer- 
ring to  an  index  of  names.     In  planting  in  the  open  ground, 


GENERAL  RULES  OF  CULTURE.         31 

the  general  rule  is  that  the  crown  of  the  bulb  should  be 
placed  an  inch  below  the  surface :  if  in  a  situation,  how- 
ever, where  the  bulbs  would  be  liable  to  be  throw^n  out 
by  the  frost,  an  inch  and  a  half  will  not  be  too  deep. 
The  larger  the  bulb,  the  deeper  it  should  be  planted ; 
and  all  lilies  and  crown  imperials  should  be  set  three 
inches  below  the  surface,  and  even  deeper  if  the  bulbs  are 
very  large.  Crocus  should  be  set  deeper  than  bulbs  of 
the  same  size,  as  their  tendency  is  to  grow  out  of  the 
ground ;  and  iris  rather  higher,  as  they  naturally  bury 
themselves :  this  upon  the  supposition  that  the  bulbs  are 
not  to  be  taken  up  annually.  The  bulb  bed  may  be  made 
more  effective  if  gently  sloped  from  the  back  to  the  front : 
if  under  a  window,  slope  it  toward  the  path ;  but  the 
inclination  should  always  be  to  the  south,  as  thus,  in  winter, 
it  receives  more  sun,  and  the  flowers  bloom  earlier  in  the 
spring.  There  is  often  a  difference  of  three  weeks  in  the 
blooming  of  bulbs  planted  at  the  same  time  under  a  south 
and  west  window,  the  difference  being  in  favor  of  the 
former.  If  the  house  is  stone  or  brick,  or  has  a  stone  un- 
der-pinning, it  is  a  good  plan  to  have  a  narrow  border  dug 
close  to  the  house.  Fill  this  with  suowdrops  and  yellow 
cloth-of-gold   crocus,  or   the   pretty    little    striped    Scotch 


32         GENERAL  EULE3  OF  CULTURE. 

crocus :   the  former,  in  a  favorable  season,  will   bloom  in 
February ;   and  the  latter,  very  early  in  March. 

The  bulbs  being  planted  (say  about  the  middle  of  Octo- 
ber), there  is  nothing  more  to  be  done  until  the  ground 
begins  to  freeze.  But  the  bulbs  are  by  no  means  idle : 
no  sooner  are  they  planted  than  they  begin  to  grow.  A 
crocus  or  hyacinth  will  in  a  few  days  throw  out  a  root 
an  inch  long,  if  in  a  moist  soil ;  the  shoot  also  begins  to 
protrude,  and  in  a  few  weeks  the  plant  is  fairly  established. 
As  soon  as  the  ground  begins  to  freeze  at  night,  the  bed 
should  be  covered  with  three  or  four  inches  of  coarse 
litter,  which  will  prevent  the  earth  from  freezing  very 
deep,  and  thus  allow  the  roots  to  grow  all  winter.  Unless 
the  cold  is  very  severe,  the  plants  will  continue  to  push ; 
and,  when  the  covering  is  removed,  —  which  it  should  be 
about  the  middle  of  March,  or  when  the  snowdrops  push 
up  through  the  litter,  —  the  bulbs  will  be  found  to  have 
made  sprouts  an  inch  or  more  in  length.  These,  of  course, 
-will  be  yellow,  from  not  having  been  exposed  to  the  light ; 
but  they  will  soon  turn  green.  As  soon  as  the  flowers 
have  faded,  all  seed-vessels  should  be  removed,  unless  it 
is  desirable  to  raise  seedlings  ;  as  the  ripening  of  seed 
weakens  the  bulb.     If  the  spring  is  very  dry,  the  bed  should 


GENERAL  RULES  OF  CULTURE.         33 

be  occasionally  "watered,  to  prevent  the  premature  ripening 
of  the  foliage,  and  to  encourage  its  growth. 

As  soon  as  the  leaves  have  faded,  they  should  be  removed  ; 
and  the  bulbs  should  rest  (if  not  taken  up)  until  they 
naturally  begin  to  grow  again.  Showy  annuals  (such  as 
portulaca)  planted  through  the  bed  will  cover  all  bare 
places  during  the  summer,  and  do  not  send  their  roots 
deep  enough  to  injure  the  bulbs.  As  soon  as  the  frost  has 
killed  these,  the  bed  should  be  cleared,  carefully  forked 
(except  where  the  bulbs  are),  and  a  coating  of  fine  manure 
supplied.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  apply  weak  liquid  manure  ; 
and  an  addition  of  powdered  charcoal  to  the  soil  of  the 
bed  will  give  additional  brilliancy  to  the  flowers. 

Powdered  bone  or  horn-scrapings  are  also  excellent  ma- 
nures. 

The  culture  of  tender  bulbs  is,  in  a  measure,  similar 
to  that  of  the  hardy  species.  Potted  in  well-drained  pots, 
they  should  be  gently  watered,  and  kept  in  a  warm,  shady 
place,  till  they  begin  to  grow ;  then  water  should  be  more 
freely  given,  and  they  should  be  placed  in  full  sunlight, 
and  as  near  the  glass  as  possible,  to  encourage  a  thick, 
sturdy  growth. 

When  in  bloom,  they  should  be  kept  cool,  that  the  dura- 
tion of  the  flower  may  be  prolonged. 


34 


GENERAL  RULES  OF  CULTURE. 


During  growth,  copious    syringing  should   be   given,  to 
destroy  the  red  spider,  the  great  enemy  of  greenhouse  bulbs. 


^^',1=4 


They  should  not  be  allowed  to  ripen  seed.  After  bloom- 
ing, the  leaves  ■  should  be  grown  until  the  tips  begin  to 
turn  yellow  ;  when  water  should  be  less  freely  administered, 
and  the  plants  be  gradually  dried  off.  When  thus  at  rest, 
the  pots  should  be  turned  on  their  sides,  placed  on  shelves 
under  the  greenhouse  stage,  or  in  a  shed  or  cellar,  and  so 
remain  until  the  season  for  repotting.  Bulbs  with  ever- 
green foliage  should  never  be  entirely  dried  of;  but  the 
supply  of  water  should  be  greatly  reduced  until  the  plants 
again  show  signs  of  growth. 


S  a  general  rule,  a  soil  with  a  proportion 
of  sand  is  best  suited  to  the  growth  of  bulbs. 
Some  even  thrive  in  pure  sand ;  and  there 
arc  very  few  which  will  succeed  in  heavy, 
close,  clayey,  or  peaty  soil. 

This  fact  must  be  borne  in  mind  in  the  culture  of  all  bulbs. 
Many  require  a  rich  soil,  and  some  will  bear  manuring ; 
but  even  these  need  light  soil  and  well-rotted  manures. 
A  good  compost  for  the  growth  of  common  bulbs  is  one 
part  clean  sand,  one  part  leaf-mould  or  rich  garden-loam, 
and  one  part  well-rotted  cow-dung.  A  good  substitute  for 
this  latter  is  the  bottom  of  an  old  hot-bed  ;  but  it  should  be 
very  well  rotted,  so  that  its  component  parts  cannot  be  dis- 
tinguished, and  such  as  will  fall  away  like  loam. 

35 


36  '  PREPARATION   OP   SOIL, 

In  the  preparation  of  beds  for  hardy  bulbs,  the  following 
directions  may  be  given  :  — 

SITUATION. 

This  should  always  be  sunny  ;  though,  except  for  early- 
blooming  species,  it  need  not  face  the  south.  There  are,  in 
all  the  numerous  family  of  bulbs,  very  few  species  that 
delight  in  shade.  Many  of  our  best-known  bulbs  are 
natives  of  countries  where  the  sun  is  far  hotter  than  in  our 
own  ;  where  the  year  is  divided  into  but  two  seasons,  —  the 
rainy  and  the  dry,  —  during  the  former  of  which  the  growth 
is  perfected,  and,  after  blooming,  the  plant  rests  in  a  state 
of  perfect  inactivity  till  called  into  growth  again  by  the 
return  of  the  wet  season,  or,  in  some  cases,  sending  up  its 
flower-stem,  then  followed  by  the  growth.  In  this  latter 
case,  however,  the  bulb  is  at  rest ;  the  bloom  being  perfected 
during  growth,  and  only  developed  at  a  later  period. 

In  the  culture  of  bulbs,  as  well  as  in  all  other  culture, 
we  must,  by  every  means  in  our  power,  approximate  to  the 
natural  conditions  of  growth  ;  and,  the  nearer  we  attain  this 
end,  the  more  perfect  will  be  our  success.  Thus  it  follows, 
that,  while  a  bulb-bed  should  have  plenty  of  sun,  it  should 
not  be  so  dry  that  a  good  supply  of  moisture  cannot  be 


AND   APPLICATION   OF   MANURE.  37 

obtained  during  the  gron'iug  season.  These  two  conditions 
we  can  seldom  find  ;  and,  even  if  we  could,  few  soils  are 
rich  enough  for  bulb-culture  without  further  preparation ; 
and  therefore,  having  selected  a  sunny  exposure,  where  no 
large  trees  may,  by  their  branches,  shade  the  bed,  or,  by 
their  roots,  rob  it  of  its  richness,  our  next  step  is  the 

TREPARATION    OF    THE    BED. 

The  bed  should  be  at  least  thirty  inches  deep,  of  good 
bulb-soil ;  and  must  be  well  drained.  As  few  situations 
naturally  fulfil  these  conditions,  excavation  is  necessary. 
First,  throw  off  all  the  black  loam  in  piles  at  the  side,  and 
then  cart  away  all  yellow  loam,  sand,  or  gravel,  to  the 
required  depth.  If  the  subsoil  is  gravel,  the  bed  is  ready 
for  filling ;  letting  the  bottom,  however,  slope  gently  from 
back  to  front,  the  front  of  the  bed  being  the  point  of  obser- 
vation, or  that  from  which  it  is  seen  to  best  advantage 
when  in  bloom.  If,  however,  we  have  a  stiff  clay  subsoil, 
or  any  that  will  retain  water,  it  will  be  necessary  to  go 
from  six  to  nine  inches  deeper  for  drainage. 

This  space  should  be  filled  with  small  stones,  laid  to  a 
blind  drain  at  the  lowest  part,  to  carry  off  all  superfluous 
water.     The  loam  that  was  removed  from  the  surface  may 


38 


then  be  filled  iu,  provided  it  does  not  more  than  half  fill  tlie 
bed ;  and  the  bed  should  then  be  filled  up,  some  four  inches 
above  the  former  level,  with  prepared  soil,  of  equal  parts 
of  loam,  or  leaf-mould,  clean  sand,  and  well-rotted  cow- 
manure,  or  old  hot-bed.  A  few  days  should  be  allowed 
before  planting,  that  the  soil  may  settle.  It  is  always  well 
to  have  the  surface  of  the  bed  an  inch  or  more  above  the 
surrounding  soil ;  and  the  surface  should  slope  gently  from 
the  centre  to  the  sides,  or  from  the  rear  to  the  front. 

A  most  excellent  compost  for  bulbs,  especially  for  ranun- 
culus and  anemones,  is  made  by  taking  the  turfs  of  an 
old  pasture,  making  a  heap  of  them,  and  letting  them  rot 
for  two  or  three  years,  turning  them  occasionally  to  pick 
out  any  insects  or  hard  foreign  bodies. 

The  sand  used  should  be  clean  and  fine,  or,  as  gardeners 
say,  "  sharp ; "  free  fom  all  stones  or  earthy  matter,  and 
fresh.  If  sea-sand  is  used,  it  should  be  well  washed,  to 
take  out  the  salt :  there  are  but  very  few  bulbs  that  flourish 
in  a  soil  containing  salt. 

POTTING. 

In  planting  bulbs  in  pots,  the  same  primary  rules  of 
drainage  should  be  observed.     This  is  effected  by  filling  the 


AND   APPLICATION   OF   MANURE.  39 

pots  Avith  about  an  inch  of  broken  potsherds,  or  "  crocks," 
and  then  filling  up  with  prepared  soil.  Small  bits  of  cliar- 
coal,  about  the  size  of  a  hazel-nut,  make  a  very  good  drain- 
age, and  contribute  to  heighten  the  brilliancy  of  the  flowers. 

The  chief  care  in  the  growth  of  bulbs  in  pots  is  to  pre- 
vent the  soil  from  becoming  sodden  through  imperfect 
draina2:e,  or  too  drv  from  want  of  sufficient  water,  duriuir 
the  season  of  growth. 

It  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  vigorous  growth,  once 
begun,  should  never  cease  until  the  season  of  rest  arrives  ; 
and  any  check  received  from  neglect  in  watering,  greatly 
injures  the  bulb. 

MANURES. 

All  manures  should  be  Avell  decomposed,  or  "  rotted." 
Fresh  or  very  strong  manures  are  injurious. 

Cow-dung  is  the  principal  manure  used  ;  but  this  should 
always  be  a  year  old,  and  never  be  hot. 

Horse-dung  should  never  be  used,  unless  perfectly  de- 
composed, and  deprived  of  all  heating  principle. 

Any  manure  should  be  clean,  or  "  very  fine  ;  "  that  is, 
free  from  worms  and  slugs,  and  with  no  admixture  of  straw 


40  PREPARATION   OF   SOIL, 

or  stubble.  It  should  be  in  such  a  condition  as  to  be 
thoroughly  incorporated  with  the  soil. 

In  the  formation  of  a  bulb-bed,  it  should  be  well  manured, 
and  will  not  generally  require  further  manuring,  except  the 
autumn  top-dressing,  for  several  years.  If,  however,  it 
becomes  poor,  liquid  manure  may  be  advantageously  ad- 
ministered. This  should  be  made  by  mixing  cow-dung  and 
rain-water ;  and  it  should  be  applied  at  night,  over  the  sur- 
face of  the  bed,  from  the  fine  rose  of  a  water-pot,  when 
the  plants  are  not  in  bloom  and  in  growth.  Weak  guano- 
water  may  also  be  of  service,  but  should  be  used  with 
caution.  Powdered  charcoal  may  be  mixed  with  the  soil 
with  advantage  to  the  flowers.  Ground  bone  is  an  excellent 
manure  for  a  bed  of  hyacinths.  Horn-scrapings,  or  piths, 
answer  the  same  purpose. 

Bulbs  grown  in  pots  need  no  manure  if  the  soil  has  been 
properly  prepared.  Waterings  of  weak  manure-water  may, 
however,  be  given  where  a  weak  growth  seems  to  require  it. 

Bulbs  grown  in  water  are  greatly  improved  by  the  addi- 
tion of  a  few  drops  of  aqua  ammonia  to  the  water  each 
time  it  is  changed. 

In  potting  hyacinths  and  tuberoses,  after  the  drainage, 
it  is  our  practice  to  fill  in  between  one  and  two  inches  of 


AND   APPLICATION   OF   MANURE.  41 

dried  cow-droppiugs,  collected  from  the  pastures,  and  which 
have  been  exposed  to  the  weather  during  the  winter. 
These  are  crumbled  up  and  pressed  down,  and  the  pot 
then  fdled  with  prepared  soil.  In  watering,  this  mass  of 
manure  becomes  soft ;  and  when  the  young  root  of  the  bulb, 
pushing  through  the  soil,  comes  in  contact  with  it,  the 
effects  are  at  once  evident  in  the  growth  of  the  plant.  By 
this  moans,  we  have  obtained  remarkably  fine  spikes  of 
bloom. 

These  remarks  must  be  understood  as  applying  to  plants 
which  are  true  bulbs,  and  as  not  being  without  exception. 
A  bed  for  gladiolus  is  best  prepared  by  plentifully  manur- 
ing with  stable-manure,  digging  it  in  about  November,  and 
planting  the  bulbs  in  early  spring.  Many  lilies  are  rather 
gross  feeders,  and  will  bear  any  manure  which  is  not 
heating.  Tubers,  or  creeping  root-stocks,  such  as  dahlias, 
cannas,  and  German  iris,  delight  in  a  strong,  rich,  well- 
manured  soil,  and  do  not  thrive  in  sandy  loam  :  but  gener- 
ally sandy  loam  is  best  suited  to  bulbs  ;  and,  where  they  are 
planted  in  a  stiff  soil,  it  is  best  to  fill  a  handful  of  sand  in 
the  hole  made  for  the  bulb,  to  prevent  its  rotting  in  winter 
from  too  much  dampness. 


IV. 

BULB  cases;  growth  in  water,  moss,  and  sand. 

NE  of  the  most  satisfactory  modes  of  grow- 
ing bulbs  in  the  house  is  iu  a  bulb  case. 
By  this  very  simple  contrivance,  all  the 
objections  to  plants  in  pots  are  obviated, 
and  the  plants  thrive  much  better. 
^^1  The  bulb  case  is  a  simple  oblong  table, 
as  long  as  the  window,  where  you  wish  to 
grow  the  bulbs,  is  wide,  and  wide  enough  to  accommodate 
three  medium-sized  pots  in  each  cross-row.  A  very  good 
size  is  four  and  a  half  feet  in  length  by  two  feet  in  Avidth 
in  the  clear,  so  as  to  hold  three  rows  of  eiglit  pots  each. 
Let  the  table  be  hollow,  and  eight  to  ten  inches  deep,  all 
thoroughly  joined  together,  and  well  coated  with  white  lead 
on  the  inside,  particularly  around  the  joints.  Into  this  table 
fit  a  zinc  pan  of  the  same  depth,  with  wire  handles  which 
turn  down  inside  at  each  end.     The  prettiest  style  of  table 

for  a  parlor  is  of  oiled  black  walnut,  with  turned  legs,  pan- 
42 


BULB   CASES ; 


43 


elled  sides,  and  as  high  as  the  sill  of  the  window.  It  shoukl 
be  fitted  with  strong  castors,  that  it  may  run  easily,  and 
be  turned  if  the  plants  grow  one-sided.  If  any  other 
form  is  employed,  —  and  we  give  only  the  above  form  and 
dimensions  as  being  those  most  simply  made,— the  only 
care  is  to  see  that  it  is  so  proportioned  that  there  is  no 
waste  room  on  the  inside  ;  that  is,  that  it  may  accommodate 
a  certain  number  of  pots  without  small  bare  places. 

If  the  table  is  made  circular,  the  whole  top  may  turn 
on  a  pivot.     After  the  bulbs  are  potted  in  October,  they 
should  be  put  in   a  dark  cellar,  and  moderately  watered 
for  three  weeks,  to  encourage  the   growth    of  the   roots. 
When  the  pots  are  filled  with  roots,  or  when  they  touch 
the    sides    of  the   pot   (which  may  easily  be   ascertained 
by   inverting  the  pot,  giving  the  edge  a  sharp  rap,  when 
the  ball  Avill  come  out  entire,  may  be  examined,  and  may 
then  be  replaced  in  the  pot  without  injury  to  the  plant), 
the  pots  may   be  brought  from  the  cellar,  and  placed  in 
the  bulb  case.     Fill  the  case  with  pots,  and  fill  common 
moss    obtained    in    the    woods,    or    sphagnum    from    the 
meadows,    into    all   the    interstices,    and    as    high    as    the 
top  of  the  pots;    then  cover  all  the  pots  about  half  an 
inch   with   the   rich   green  moss  which  may  be  found  on 


44  GROWTH   IN  WATER,   MOSS,   AND    SAND. 

shady  rocks  in  oak  woods.  The  shoots  of  the  bulbs  will 
soon  push  through  the  moss  if  the  table  is  placed  in  a 
sunny  window ;  and,  if  the  moss  is  kept  well  watered,  we 
shall  have  a  bed  of  hyacinths  in  a  garden  of  moss. 

Of  course,  with  such  constant  watering,  much  water  will 
accumulate  in  the  bottom  of  the  pan  ;  but  this  will  produce 
no  bad  effects ;  the  roots  of  the  plants  in  time  running 
through  the  holes  in  the  bottom  of  the  pots,  and  luxuriating 
in  the  wet  moss.  The  plants  placed  in  the  case  early  in 
November  will  bloom  about  Christmas.  As  soon  as  the 
bloom  fades,  the  pots  should  be  taken  from  the  case,  placed 
in  a  light  cellar,  watered  to  encourage  the  growth  of  the 
foliage,  and  their  places  supplied  with  other  pots  brought 
from  the  cellar.  As  the  plants  will  not  all  bloom  at  once, 
the  case  will  always,  by  thus  renewing,  have  plants  in 
bloom  from  Christmas  to  April. 

To  maintain  this  succession,  a  stock  of  from  seventy- 
five  to  one  hundred  bulbs  should  be  potted ;  and  some  atten- 
tion should  be  paid  to  the  period  of  flowering,  as  some 
varieties  bloom  very  early,  and  others  always  bloom  late 
and  cannot  be  forced.  The  early-blooming  varieties  should 
be  brought  forward  in  early  winter,  while  the  later  should  be 
left  in  the  cellar  till  February. 


BULB    CASES ;  45 

The  stock  of  bulbs  may  all  be  potted  at  the  same  time, 
or  at  intervals  of  a  month.  Care  must  be  taken  not  to 
over-water  them  while  in  the  cellar,  as  too  much  moisture 
causes  rot  both  of  roots  and  tops.  The  larger  bulbs 
should  be  planted  one  in  a  pot ;  but  of  smaller,  such  as 
crocus,  tulips,  and  jonquils,  three  may.be  placed  in  the 
same  pot. 

A  number  of  double  Roman  narcissus  should  always  be 
potted  for  very  early  blooming :  these  will  be  out  of 
bloom  by  the  middle  of  January,  and  may  be  replaced  by 
Polyanthus  narcissus  Gloriosa  (one  of  the  earliest  and 
best)  ;  and  these  in  turn  by  the  stronger  and  later  varieties, 
of  which  Grand  Primo  and  Grand  Monarque  are  the  best. 
The  narcissus,  being  of  tall  habit,  should  be  placed  in  the 
middle  of  the  case. 

The  accompanying  plates  may  give  a  good  idea  of  the 
bulb  case  before  it  is  filled  and  after  the  plants  are  in 
bloom. 

The  great  advantage  of  growing  plants  in  cases  is,  that 
all  spilling  of  water  or  overflowing  of  saucers,  and  all  risk 
of  overturning  or  breaking  the  pots,  is  avoided  ;  and  thus 
plants  may  be  grown  in  the  parlor  without  "  making  dirt." 


46  GROWTH   IN   WATER,   MOSS,   AND   SAND. 


IN    GLASS    CASES. 

Bulbs  are  sometimes  grown  iu  close  glass  or  Wardian 
cases. 

The  treatment  is  very  simple  ;  being  merely  to  plant  the 
bulb  in  the  soil,  and  to  give  air  enough  to  prevent  rot  or 
mould. 

We  have,  however,  found  that,  in  every  case,  the  leaves 
become  tall  or  "  drawn,"  and  the  flowers  were  lacking  in 
brilliancy. 

IN   WATER. 

This  popular  mode  of  growing  bulbs  seldom  gives  very 
fine  flowers  ;  but  its  simplicity  and  pretty  effect  will  always 


BULB  cases; 


47 


recommend  it.  The  bulb  should  be  placed  in  the  glass  in 
November  ;  the  glass  being  filled  with  rain-water  up  to  the 
neck,  so  that  the  base  of  the  bulb  may  just  touch  it.  Place 
the  glasses  in  a  warm,  dark  place,  keeping  them  filled  with 
water,  for  three  weeks,  or  until  the  glass  is  half  filled  with 
roots ;  then  remove  to  the  light,  and  gradually  to  full 
sunlight. 

After  blooming,  if  it  is  desirable  to  preserve  the  bulb,  it 
should  be  taken  from  the  glass,  and  planted  in  earth,  to 
strengthen  it. 

The  water  in  the  glasses  should  be  changed  every  week, 
or  as  often  as  it  becomes  cloudy  (a  bit  of  charcoal  in  the 
water  will,  however,  keep    it  sweet  and  clear)  ;    and,  in 


48 


GROWTH  IN  WATER,  MOSS,  AND   SAND. 


renewing  the  water,  care  must  be  taken  that  that  supplied 
be  of  the  same  temperature  as  that  taken  away. 

There  are  many  forms  and  colors  of  glasses :  those  of 
dark  glass  are  best  for  the  bulbs. 

The  accompanying  figure  shows  some  of  the  many  attrac- 
tive forms  :  — 


The  bulbs  usually  grown  in  glasses  are  hyacinths :  but 
we  occasionally  see  English  iris,  tulips,  and  narcissus, 
which  make  a  pretty  show  ;  the  treatment  required  for  them 
being  the  same  as  for  the  hyacinth. 

A  few  drops  of  glue  or  ammonia,  added  to  the  water  in 
which  bulbs  are  grown,  increases  the  brilliancy  of  the 
flower,  and  strengthens  the  bulb. 


49 


IN    VEGETABLES. 

Hyacinths  are  sometimes  grown  in  a  carrot  or  turnip, 
hollowed  out,  and  filled  with  water.  The  bulb  grows  well ; 
and  a  growth  of  young  foliage  springs  from  the  top  of  this 
novel  flower-vase,  and  entirely  conceals  the  bulb.  In  this 
way,  many  pretty  effects  may  be  produced.  The  treatment 
is  the  same  required  by  bulbs  in  glasses. 

IN   MOSS. 

Pots  or  glasses  may  be  filled  with  moss,  and  bulbs  grow 
very  prettily  therein.  The  treatment  is  the  same  as  that 
required  by  bulbs  in  earth.  A  very  pretty  way  is  to  make 
a  ball  of  moss,  fill  it  with  bulbs,  wire  it  round,  and  hang  it 
in  a  warm,  light  place  ;  occasionally  turning  it  to  make  an 
even  growth,  and  dipping  it  in  water  when  it  gets  dry. 
The  shoots  of  the  bulbs  Avill  cover  the  moss,  and  the  roots 
will  run  through  the  inside.  The  Jacobean  lily  {Sprehelia^ 
or  Amaryllis  formosissimus) ,  grown  in  this  way,  blooms 
beautifully,  and  is  a  fine  summer  ornament. 


50  GROWTH   IN   WATER,   MOSS,   AND   SAND. 

IN   SAND. 

This  mode  is  popular,  as  sand  is  cleaner  than  earth,  and 
the  contrast  of  the  white  sand  and  green  leaves  is  very- 
pleasing.  The  only  care  necessary  is  to  see  that  the  sand 
contains  no  salt,  and  that  it  never  becomes  dry.  The  other 
treatment  is  the  same  required  by  bulbs  grown  in  earth. 

CROCUS-POTS. 

Crocus  are  often  grown  in  fancy  china-pots,  represent- 
ing porcupines.  They  are  planted  so  that  the  leaves  may 
represent  the  quills  of  the  animal.  The  pots  may  be  filled 
with  earth,  moss,  or  sand,  and  treated  as  directed  for  bulbs 
thus  grown.  The  great  difficulty  is  to  produce  an  even 
growth,  the  effect  generally  being  a  porcupine  with  quills 
in  a  very  dilapidated  condition ;  and  therefore  this  mode 
of  growth  is  not  now  as  popular  as  formerly. 


V. 


DISEASES   AND   INSECTS. 

ISEASES  arc  not  of  fre- 
queut  occurreucc  iu  bulb 
culture,  if  proper  iitteutiou 
is  paid  to  the  preparation 

of  soil,  and  the  application  of  water  ;  and  bulbs  are  subject 

to  the  attacks  of  few  insects,  if  reasonable   care  is  taken. 

The  principal  are  red  spider,  green-fly,  mealy  bug,  black, 

brown,  and  white  scale,  mildew  and  rot. 


PRE^IATURE    FLOWERING. 


Premature  flowering — that  is,  the  flowers  of  such  bulbs 
as  hyacinths  expanding  without  pushing  up  a  flower-stalk  — 
is  not  strictly  a  disease,  but  is  caused  by  improper  culture. 
This  not  unfrequently  occurs  when  the  bulbs  are  exposed 

51 


52  DISEASES  AND   INSECTS. 

to  light  and  heat  soon  after  planting,  and  before  they  have 
had  time  to  put  forth  roots.  As  there  are  no  roots  to  draw 
nourishment  from  the  earth,  the  bulb  is  thrown  upon  its 
own  resources,  and  the  leaves  and  flower  are  produced  at 
the  expense  of  the  nutriment  already  laid  up  in  the  scales 
of  the  bulb.  There  is  no  power  or  strength  to  throw  up  a 
foot-stalk,  and  the  flowers  half  expand  down  in  the  bulb. 
Often,  in  such  cases,  we  find,  in  the  course  of  time,  the 
withered  flowers  elevated  on  a  long  foot-stalk  ;  showing  that, 
as  soon  as  sufiicient  roots  were  matured,  the  bulb  did  all 
that  was  necessary  to  produce  a  fine  flower. 

This  same  premature  flowering  sometimes  occurs,  even 
where  there  are  plenty  of  roots,  if  the  room  where  the  plants 
are  grown  is  subject  to  great  variations  of  temperature. 
Where  this  is  the  case,  the  simple  remedy  of  a  more 
equable  temperature,  and  more  air,  will  produce  satisfac- 
tory results. 

It  sometimes  happens  that  a  bulb  will  develop  flowers 
on  a  short  foot-stalk,  in  spite  of  every  care.  This  may  be 
the  effect  of  too  much  direct  sun  and  heat,  or  may  be  a 
defect  in  the  bulb.  An  easy  course  of  treatment  is  to  make 
a  cylinder  of  card-board,  stiff  brown  paper,  or  some  other 


DISEASES   AND    INSECTS.  '  53 

opaque  substance,  just  large  enough  to  fit  over  the  shoot 
of  the  bulb,  and  about  eight  inches  long.  Fit  this  over  the 
bulb,  and  it  will  cause  the  leaves  and  flower-stalks  to  grow 
out  of  it  to  reach  the  light.  As  soon  as  both  are  sufficiently 
long,  the  case  may  be  removed. 

TARDY   FLOWERING. 

This  often  occurs  from  want  of  sufficient  light  or  heat. 
In  the  former  case,  the  leaves  and  flower-stem  become  drawn 
and  white,  and  the  flowers  are  pale  :  in  the  latter,  the  plant 
is  somewhat  stunted  ;  and  the  flowers  die  without  expanding, 
or  are  destitute  of  color.  If  the  flower-stem  is  gone,  the 
only  treatment  is  to  grow  the  plant  well,  that  the  foliage 
may  mature  a  good  bulb  for  another  year,  by  giving  plenty 
of  light  and  heat.  If,  however,  the  flower-buds  have  not 
withered,  the  buds  will,  by  removing  the  plant  to  a  warm, 
sunny  situation,  gain  color,  and  give  good  bloom. 

It  is  worthy  of  remark,  that  neither  premature  nor  tardy 
flowering  occurs  in  open-air  culture,  but  only  attack  house- 
grown  bulbs.  The  inference  is  obvious  that  they  are 
caused  by  our  treatment  not  supplying  some  requisite  of 
growth  which  Nature  affiDrds. 


54  '  DISEASES   AND    INSECTS. 

RED    SPIDER. 

Some  bulbs  are  especially  liable  to  the  attacks  of  this 
pest  of  greenhouse  culture.  Those  with  soft  leaves,  such  as 
hyacinths  and  narcissus,  are  not  generally  troubled  ;  but 
those  with  stiff,  gladiate  foliage,  as  most  of  the  Cape  bulbs, 
seldom  escape. 

It  will  be  noticed  that  this  is  usually  a  trouble  in  parlor 
or  greenhouse  culture,  out-door  bulbs  being  seldom  attacked. 
The  presence  of  the  spider  is  easily  known  by  the  foliage 
of  the  infested  plants  assuming  a  rough,  scaly,  reddish- 
brown  or  white  appearance ;  or,  in  severe  cases,  being 
covered  with  minute,  hardly  visible  cobwebs,  and  inhabited 
with  myriads  of  small  red  spiders. 

An  examination  of  any  foliage  so  infested,  under  a 
microscope,  shows  a  network  of  web  covering  the  whole 
leaf,  and  the  presence  of  multitudes  of  insects,  and  this 
even  before  the  effect  of  their  presence  is  perceived  by  the 
naked  eye. 

These  spiders  feed  upon  the  juices  of  the  plant,  and,  by 
sucking  all  life  from  the  foliage,  weaken,  and  eventually 
destroy,  the  bulb.  They  also  invest  the  scaly  covering 
and  skin  of  those  bulbs  (such  as  amaryllis)  which  require 
to  be  planted  one-half  above  the  surface  of  the  ground. 


DISEASES  AND   INSECTS.  55 

Heat  and  drought  are  favorable  to  their  growth  and 
development ;  and  they  arc  most  abundant  in  the  warmest 
and  sunniest  parts  of  the  greenhouse,  such  as  the  top 
shelves  near  the  glass,  where  Cape  bulbs  are  usually 
grown  to  prevent  them  from  becoming  drawn. 

The  remedy  is  copious  syringing,  whenever  the  plants 
are  not  in  full  sunshine.  If  the  foliage  can  be  kept  moist 
for  a  while,  it  is  certain  death  to  the  spider. 

This  is  the  reason  for  the  constant  syringing  of  foliage 
required  in  the  culture  of  Cape  bulbs,  as,  without  great  care, 
they  arc  sure  to  be  attacked  by  spider.  In  this  the  old 
maxim,  "An  ounce  of  prevention  is  worth  a  pound  of 
cure,"  well  applies ;  for  if  the  red  spider  once  establishes 
himself,  and  browns  the  leaves,  the  beauty  of  the  plant  is 
gone  for  the  season. 

While  red  spider  is  peculiarly  a  subject  of  in-door  culture, 
it  sometimes,  in  times  of  drought,  becomes  formidable  in 
the  garden.  During  the  last  two  summers  of  extreme 
drought  (18G4  and  18G5),  it  has  been  very  common  on 
gladiolus  as  well  as  on  many  garden-plants ;  but,  though 
always  to  be  found  on  garden-plants  in  summer,  it  seldom 
produces  any  perceptibly  injurious  effects. 


56  DISEASES   AND   INSECTS. 

Where  the  spider  is  very  plenty,  a  little  flower  of  sulphur 
may  be  dusted  over  the  foliage  to  advantage. 

A  good  preventive  is  to  place  a  pan  upon  the  flue  of  the 
greenhouse,  fill  it  with  water,  and  dust  into  it  a  few  hand- 
fuls  of  flower  of  sulphur  :  the  fumes  arising  from  this  when 
the  water  becomes  heated  are  death  to  the  spider.  Care 
must  be  taken  not  to  allow  these  fumes  to  rise  upon  very 
delicate  plants,  as  they  are  sometimes  injurious. 

The  common  remedy  of  putting  sulphur  on  the  flue 
should  be  used  with  great  caution,  as,  though  sure  death  to 
the  spider,  it  often  kills  the  plants,  or  causes  them  to  lose 
their  leaves. 

In  house-culture,  the  simplest  remedy  for  spider  is  sjrin- 
ging,  or,  where  this  cannot  be  done,  frequent  sponging  of 
the  foliage  with  pure  water,  or  sulphur  and  water. 

GREEN-FLY. 

The  green  aphis,  or  fly,  so  common  in  greenhouses,  is 
often  found  on  the  foliage  of  bulbs. 

The  easiest  and  best  remedy  is  a  gentle  fumigation  of 
the  greenhouse,  or  of  the  infected  plant  under  a  barrel,  as 
in  the  ordinary   treatment   of  house-plants   for  this  pest. 


DISEASES   AND   INSECTS.  57 

The  insects  are  stupefied  by  the  smoke,  fall  from  the  foli- 
age, and  are  easily  washed  away  by  a  subsequent  syringing. 
This  latter  is  important,  as  the  tobacco  seldom  kills,  but 
only  stupefies,  the  fly  ;  and  if  not  washed  off,  and  drowned 
by  the  water,  the  insects  crawl  up  on  to  the  foliage  again, 
and  the  labor  is  lost.  It  is  also  useful  to  wash  oflf  any 
which  may  still  cling  to  the  leaves. 

MEALY   BUG. 

This  enemy  is  much  more  difficult  to  'conquer  than  the 
two  preceding,  as  no  general  application  will  be  effective. 
Fortunately,  bulbs  are  but  little  infested.  The  remedy  is  to 
pick  or  wash  off  the  insects  by  a  careful  sponging  of  the 
foliage.  A  touch  of  kerosene  oil,  applied  to  the  bug  with  a 
very  fine  camel' s-hair  pencil,  is  instant  death,  and  not  injuri- 
ous to  the  plant. 

Where  these  insects  infest  the  scales  or  skin  of  green- 
house bulbs,  as  is  not  uncommon,  they  are  with  dilficulty 
extirpated.  The  treatment  is  to  peel  off  so  much  of  the  old 
skin  as  can  be  done  without  injury,  and  then  carefully 
remove  all  bugs  that  can  be  seen,  and  repeat  the  process  as 
often  as  any  bugs  can  be  found. 


58  DISEASES  AND  INSECTS. 

BLACK,   BROWN,   AND   WHITE   SCALE. 

Bulbs  that  make  an  annual  growth  are  seldom  troubled 
by  these  insects  ;  but  they  are  not  uncommon  on  those  with 
evergreen  foliage. 

The  simple  treatment  of  washing  the  foliage  and  leaf- 
stalks of  the  infested  plants  with  a  sponge  dipped  in  weak 
warm  soapsuds  will  be  found  effectual  in  all  cases. 

House-bulbs  are  seldom  liable  to  be  attacked  by  these 
insects. 

MILDEW 

Sometimes  attacks  soft-foliaged  bulbs,  but  is  easily  re- 
moved by  a  sprinkling  of  flower  of  sulphur  over  the 
diseased  part,  or  by  putting  sulphur  on  the  flue  of  the  house 
in  a  pan  of  water,  as  previously  directed.  It  is  caused  by 
too  much  moisture,  and  is  especially  prevalent  in  damp 
warm  weather. 

ROT. 

This  disease  attacks  the  bulb,  and  is  not  susceptible  of 
curative  treatment.  When  a  bulb  is  attacked  by  wet  or 
dry  rot,  if  it  has  not  progressed  too  far,  or  is  not  in  the 


DISEASES    AND    INSECTS.  59 

core  or  heart  of  the  bulb,  cutting  away  the  affected  parts 
with  a  sharp  kuife  will  sometimes  save  the  bulb  ;  other- 
wise a  diseased  bulb  should  never  be  planted,  as  it  may 
infect  others. 

GUxdiolus  are  subject  to  a  peculiar  form  of  rot.  The 
surface  of  the  bulb  is  covered  with  black  specks,  which 
spread  all  over  it,  and  finally  dry  up  and  kill  the  bulb. 
Such  bulbs  should  not  be  thrown  away  (especially  if  of 
valuable  varieties),  as  they  sometimes  recover;  but  should 
be  planted  by  themselves,  that  they  may  not  infect  sound 
bulbs.  We  have  noticed  that  bulbs  in  heavy  soils  were 
more  subject  to  this  disease  than  those  in  soil  of  a  light, 
sandy  nature ;  and  also  that  old  bulbs  are  much  more  likely 
to  be  affected  than  young  ones. 

A  remedy,  or  rather  preventive,  may  be  to  put  a  little 
sand  in  the  hole  in  planting  the  bulb,  and  to  raise  seedlings 
instead  of  planting  old  varieties  ;  the  latter  to  be  especially 
recommended,  as  our  American  seedlings  are  better  than 
imported  varieties. 

In  the  attention  paid  to  the  culture  of  the  hyacinth  in 
Holland,  several  diseases  have  developed  themselves,  which 
are  best  described  in  an  article  translated  from  the  Dutch 
for  "The  Gardener's  Magazine,"  from  which  we  give  the 
followin;^  extracts  :  — 


60  DISEASES   AND   INSECTS. 

"  The  hyacinth  is  liable  to  seven  diseases :  firsts  the 
white  rotz  ;  second^  the  black  i-otz  ;  thirds  the  rot ;  fourth, 
mould ;  ffth,  consumption,  or  wasting ;  sixth,  shrinking ; 
seventh,  excess  of  offsets. 

"  First,  The  white  rotz  is  known  by  a  resin,  which  gen- 
erally oozes  from  the  upper  part  of  the  bulb,  and  also  from 
the  side,  about  October ;  and  is  of  a  hard  consistency,  not 
unlike  the  resin  that  flows  from  trees.  The  white  rotz  also 
assumes  the  appearance  of  a  white,  slimy  substance,  and 
has  a  very  unpleasant  smell,  which  is  particularly  evident 
when  the  bulb  is  cut  open  ;  and  bulbs  in  this  state  should 
be  thrown  away  without  hesitation.  The  rotz  has  been 
assumed  to  be  incurable,  and  bulbs  so  affected  are  generally 
thrown  away :  they  should  never  be  planted,  as  they  infect 
the  ground  to  such  a  degree,  that  sound  bulbs,  planted  in 
the  ground  as  late  as  three  years  after,  become  infected. 
Where  the  diseased  bulb  is  very  valuable,  if  it  is  placed  in 
a  place  where  snails  abound,  they  will  eat  out  the  diseased 
part,  and  the  bulb  often  recovers  and  grows. 

"  Second,  The  black  rotz  is  more  difficult  to  know  than 
the  white  rotz,  because,  as  soon  as  the  bulb  is  taken  out  of 
the  ground  and  kept  dry,  the  rotz  dries  up  also.  The  stool, 
or  plate,  of  the  bulb,  —  that  is,  the  point  from  which  the 


DISEASES   AND   INSECTS.  61 

roots  proceed,  —  appears  as  if  eaten  out  on  the  side  ;  and  tlie 
scales  at  that  part  have  dry,  bh\ck  edges.  When,  tlierefore, 
there  is  but  little  of  this  disease  in  the  bnlb,  it  is  very  diffi- 
cult to  be  ascertained  ;  and  it  must  be  particularly  looked 
for  when  the  bulbs  arc  about  to  be  put  into  the  ground,  as 
it  will  not  only  destroy  the  infected  bulb,  but  all  those  that 
are  healthy  near  it.  A  bulb  so  attacked,  must,  therefore, 
be  thrown  away. 

"  Thirds  The* rot  is  easily  known  when  it  is  once  ftiirly 
begun.  It  is  generally  found  in  the  scales  near  the  heart 
of  the  bulb  ;  and,  to  discover  it,  the  point  of  the  bulb  should 
be  cut  off  horizontally  with  a  sharp  knife.  If  the  bulb  is 
affected  with  this  disease,  a  yellowish  or  brownish  stripe 
will  be  seen  between  the  scales,  and  all  the  part  thus  dis- 
colored should  be  cut  away  till  it  is  completely  eradicated ; 
but,  when  it  reaches  farther  than  half  of  the  bulb,  it  is  past 
remedy,  and  the  bulb  must  be  thrown  away.  Great  care 
must,  however,  be  taken,  in  cutting  off  the  point  of  the  bulb, 
not  to  injure  the  germ  which  has  formed  inside  of  it ;  and, 
when  this  is  likely  to  be  the  case,  the  cuts  should  be  made, 
not  liorizontally,  but  in  a  slanting  direction,  towards  the 
point  of  the  bulb,  so  as  not  to  run  any  risk  of  cutting  off 
the  extremity  of  the  incipient  flower. 


62  DISEASES   AND   INSECTS. 

"  It  frequently  happens  that  these  stripes  are  but  very- 
little  distinguished  from  the  color  of  the  healthy  part  of  the 
bulb  ;  and  therefore  great  attention  is  necessary,  that  they 
may  not  be  overlooked.  When  two,  three,  or  more  stripes 
are  seen  round  the  heart  of  the  bulb,  it  is  generally  past 
recovery ;  but  if  they  are  found  far  from  the  heart,  and  con- 
sequently near  the  outer  scales,  they  can  all  be  cut  away, 
with  the  exception  of  such  as  have  reached  the  root-plate 
and  attacked  it.  Above  all,  care  must  be  taken  that  neither 
the  germ  nor  the  root-plate  of  the  bulb  is  injured ;  but  all 
parts  round  them  may  be  cut  away. 

"  Fourth^  The  mould  is  found  only  on  the  outer  or  inner 
part  of  the  first  four  scales  :  it  is  not  considered  a  danger- 
ous disease,  but  must  be  removed  by  taking  off  those  scales 
that  are  attacked. 

"  Fifth,  Consumption,  or  wasting,  is  indicated  by  never- 
varying  yellow^ish  or  brownish  spots  in  the  scales  near  the 
heart.  This  disease  is  not  a  dangerous  one,  but  is  rather 
an  indication  of  a  weak  flower,  and  is  very  common  with 
several  varieties.  These  spots  may  go  through  the  whole 
bulb  without  being  injurious  :  therefore  they  are  not  to  be 
compared  with  the  stripes  of  the  rot. 

"  Sixth,   Shrinking  is  indicated  by  spots  similar  to  those 


DISEASES   AND   INSECTS.  63 

above  mentioQed,  only  they  are  much  larger.  This  disease 
generally  draws  the  Avhole  bulb  in  a  slanting  direction,  and 
a  part  of  it  appears  as  if  eaten  out.  The  bulb  loses  its 
usual  round  form.  This  is  similar  to  the  disease  called 
wastinrj^  but  in  a  greater  degree,  and  is  with  great  difficulty 
removed.  It  is  better  to  throw  away  all  bulbs  attacked 
with  this  disease. 

"  Seventh^  Excess  of  offsets  takes  place  only  in  bulbs 
capable  of  producing  flowers.  The  offsets  come  out  at  the 
sides  or  through  the  stool  or  plate,  and  the  parent  bulb 
becomes  divided  into  a  number  of  young  ones. 

"  When  this  is  the  case,  it  is  left  exactly  as  it  is,  and 
planted  like  the  others  ;  and,  although  the  bulb  will  not 
flower,  it  will  produce  a  great  many  young  bulbs. 

"Bulbs  which  have  been  cut  to  eradicate  disease  should 
be  planted  within  thirty-six  hours  after,  as  a  further  delay 
may  be  conducive  to  the  re-appearance  of  disease." 

Bulbs  in  the  open  air  are  subject  to  few  enemies.  Crocus 
are  sometimes  eaten  by  field-mice,  and  mice  are  also  very 
fond  of  tiger-flowers  ;  but  the  depredations  thus  committed 
are  few. 

Careful  preparation  of  the  bulb-bed,  and  proper  planting, 
will  almost  alw^ays  give  a  fine  show  of  bulbs  in  the  garden. 


VI. 


THE     HYACINTH,     SCILLA,     URCxINEA,     MYOGALUM,     NAR- 
CISSUS. 

THE   HYACINTH. 


HE  many  huudred  varieties  of  hyacinth 
known  to  our  gardens  have  all  descended 
from  one  species,  —  H.  orientalis  ;  which 
is  found  wild  in  Asia,  near  Aleppo  and 
Bagdad. 

In  its  wild  state,  it  is  generally  blue, 
sometimes  pink,  and,  of  course,  single.  It 
is  mentioned  by  Gerard,  and  must  have 
been  introduced  before  1596.  Till  +he 
beginning  of  the  present  century,  though  there  were  many 
double  varieties,  the  only  colors  known  were  white,  blue, 
and  pink  :  the  straw  or  lemon  colored  varieties  were  then 
produced  from  seed ;  and,  at  the  present  day,  there  is 
scarcely  any  shade  of  any  color  which  has  not  been  pro- 
duced in  the  hyacinth. 
64 


THE  HYACINTH.  65 

The  soil  suitable  for  the  liycacintli  is  a  light,  friable, 
sandy  loam,  from  which  all  stones,  sticks,  and  other  coarse 
material,  have  been  removed.  The  soil  should  be  coarse 
enough  to  pass  through  an  inch  sieve  ;  and  should  never  be 
very  fine,  nor  yet  of  a  coarse,  tenacious  nature. 

To  such  a  soil,  a  liberal  quantity  of  well-rotted  cow-dung, 
free  from  straw  and  coarse  material,  should  be  added  ;  and 
a  few  bushels  of  clean  soot,  if  for  a  very  large  bed. 

This  latter  will  act  as  a  manure  and  improve  the  flower, 
and  also  drive  away  any  noxious  grubs  and  worms.  The 
compost  should  be  well  mixed,  and  the  parts  thoroughly 
incorporated.  If,  Avhen  prepared,  it  is  so  close  as  to  cling 
together  Avhen  pressed,  a  few  bushels  of  clean  fresh  sand 
may  be  advantageously  added. 

This  compost  is  all  that  is  required  for  the  growth  of  the 
hyacinth,  both  in  pots  or  in  the  garden. 

SELECTION   OF    BULBS. 

The  bulbs  should  be  clean,  roundish,  hard,  and  heavy. 
Those  bulbs  presenting  a  surface  of  scales  should  not  be 
chosen,  as  they  seldom  give  good  bloom  ;  but  those  having 
the  surface  covered  with  a  thin,  clean  skin,  should  be 
selected.  5 


G6  THE   HYACINTH. 

Size  is  no  criterion  ;  for  some  varieties  always  produce 
large  bulbs,  and  others  are  usually  small.  Round,  medium- 
sized,  plump  bulbs,  the  base  or  root-stool  flat,  hard,  free 
from  mould  or  decay,  and  not  sunk,  and  the  top  formed  of 
small,  closely-fitted  scales,  with  perhaps  a  stout,  strong 
shoot  just  pushing,  will  give  the  best  flower:  those  having 
a  hollow  apex  should  be  avoided. 

Large,  light,  scaly  bulbs  seldom  produce  close,  compact 
spikes  of  bloom,  though  often  throwing  a  fine  mass  of 
foliage,  and  giving  several  loose  spikes  of  bloom.  Double- 
crowned  bulbs,  though  usually  producing  two  spikes  of 
bloom,  are  not  desirable,  as  the  flowers  are  generally  infe- 
rior in  size. 

Bulbs  should  be  selected  as  soon  as  imported  :  the  expo- 
sure to  the  air,  and  the  handling  they  undergo  in  a  florist's 
shop,  do  not  tend  to  improve  them.  If  the  bulbs  are  not  to 
be  planted  immediately,  they  should  be  kept  in  a  cool,  dry 
place,  laid  singly,  or  wrapped  in  thin  paper,  and  as  nearly 
as  possible  in  a  state  of  perfect  rest.  If  kept  too  moist,  the 
roots  are  excited  to  growth  ;  and  if  too  hot,  the  tops  sprout. 
If  by  chance  the  roots  have  started,  the  bulbs  should  at 
once  be  planted.  The  single  varieties  produce  the  finest 
spikes   and   more   flowers ;    the   double,    the  finest   single 


THE  HYACINTH.  G7 

blooms.  Double  varieties  are  not  fitted  for  growing  in 
water  or  for  very  early  forcing  ;  and  generally,  for  growing 
in  the  house,  the  single  varieties  are  to  be  preferred. 

PLANTING   IN    BEDS. 

Hyacinths  are  most  effective  in  the  garden  ;  and,  the  beds 
having  been  prepared  of  a  proper  compost,  the  bulbs  may 
be  planted  in  October. 

Varieties  should  not  be  mixed,  as  they  vary  greatly  in 
height,  general  habit,  and  time  of  blooming,  so  that  a  mix- 
ture is  sure  to  produce  a  bad  effect.  Therefore,  whether 
they  be  planted  in  lines  or  clumps,  let  each  line  or  clump 
be  of  one  variety,  and,  of  course,  of  one  color. 

The  bulbs  should  be  planted  three  or  four  inches  deep, 
according  to  the  size  ;  the  larger  being  planted  deeper,  and 
about  six  inches  apart,  in  lines  or  double  lines  ;  a  foot 
being  allowed  between  each  line,  and  six  inches  between 
each  double  line.  A  very  pretty  way  is  to  fill  the  bed  with 
triangles  of  three  bulbs  of  the  same  color,  taking  care  to 
let  the  colors  of  the  different  triangles  contrast  well,  and 
not  to  plant  two  triangles  of  the  same  color  together ;  the 
two  bulbs  at  the  base  of  each  triangle  being  nine  inches 


68  THE  HYACINTH. 

from  that  at  the  apex,  and  the  same  distance  from  each 
other,  and  a  foot  being  allowed  between  each  triangle. 

Hyacinths  should  always  be  planted  in  dry  weather  ;  and 
if  set  in  common  garden-soil,  in  which  they  sometimes  do 
well,  a  little  clean  sand  should  be  placed  round  each  bulb 
to  prevent  rot.  The  bed  should  be  covered  with  leaves  or 
litter  as  soon  as  the  frost  sets  in,  and  remain  covered  till 
the  bulbs  push  in  spring. 

A  writer  in  "  The  Cottage  Gardener"  gives  the  following 
directions  for  the  preparation  of  a  common  bulb-bed,  which 
will  serve  for  those  who  have  not  time  for  more  thorough 
preparation :  — 

"  When  the  beds  [of  the  garden]  are  cleared  of  their 
summer  occupants,  it  is  time  to  prepare  them  for  planting 
bulbs,  to  bloom  in  April,  May,  and  the  beginning  of  June. 
Nothing  is  better  than  deep  digging,  or  trenching,  placing 
at  the  bottom  of  each  bed  six  inches  of  fresh  or  recently 
fallen  tree-leaves,  which  should  be  covered  with  a  foot  of 
soil ;  and  they  will  serve  to  raise  the  beds  considerably,  and 
allow  water  to  drain  away  freely.  In  the  course  of  a  year, 
the  leaves  will  be  pretty  well  decomposed  ;  and,  on  digging 
in  the  succeeding  autumn,  they  will  be  brought  to  the  sur- 
face, and  thus  the  soil  will  be  enriched  by  a  not  over-stimu- 


THE   HYACINTH.  69 

lating  manure.  Fresh  leaves  being  put  in  every  auturau, 
the  beds  annually  receive  a  dressing  of  vegetable  matter, 
which  saves  dung,  and,  in  dry  summers  especially,  the  roots 
[of  bedding-plants]  lay  hold  of  the  decomposing  leaves 
when  the  plants  are  becoming  exhausted  by  blooming. 
The  beds  should  slope  from  the  centre  to  the  sides ;  and  the 
borders,  from  the  back  to  the  front." 

PLANTING   IN   WATER. 

As  we  have  said,  the  single  varieties  are  preferable  for 
forcing  in  water,  sand,  or  moss.  The  heaviest  bulbs,  with 
no  offsets,  or  marks  of  imperfection  or  decay  at  the  base, 
should  be  chosen.  They  should  be  placed  in  the  glasses 
about  the  first  of  November ;  the  glasses  being  filled  with 
rain  or  river  water,  and  the  base  of  the  bulb  just  touching 
the  water.  They  should  then  be  placed  in  a  dark  place 
where  the  temperature  does  not  exceed  50°,  and  remain 
about  a  month,  or  until  the  roots  are  three  or  four  inches 
in  length.  They  may  then  be  brought  out  to  the  light,  and 
gradually  inured  to  full  sunshine.  As  the  water  evapo- 
rates, it  must  be  supplied,  and  must  be  clianged  as  often  as 
it  becomes  discolored  or  impure  ;  or  it  may  be  kept  sweet 


70  THE   HYACINTH. 

by  the  addition  of  a  small  bit  of  charcoal.  The  plants 
should  be  kept  at  an  even  temperature,  and  the  foliage 
washed  occasionally  if  it  becomes  dusty ;  and  the  glass 
should  be  frequently  turned,  that  the  plants  may  not  become 
one-sided. 

A  few  drops  of  hartshorn  added  to  the  water  are  bene- 
ficial to  the  bloom ;  and  we  have  given  liquid  manure,  say 
ten  drops,  twice  a  week,  with  good  results.  After  bloom- 
ing, the  bulbs  should  be  placed  in  earth  to  mature  their 
foliage.  Hyacinths  grown  in  water  Avill  not  bloom  the 
next  year,  but  will  the  third  season  if  grown  in  soil. 

IN   MOSS    OR    SAND. 

Hyacinths  grow  well  in  moss  or  sand,  and  latterly  have 
been  most  successfully  grown  in  England  in  cocoanut 
refuse.  The  vessel,  or  pot,  should  have  about  half  an 
inch  of  pounded  charcoal  placed  at  the  bottom :  on  this  the 
moss  or  sand  should  be  placed,  and  the  bulbs  planted  up  to 
the  apex.  Place  the  whole  in  a  dark  place,  as  directed  for 
bulbs  in  water,  previously  giving  a  good  watering ;  and, 
when  brought  to  the  light,  plant  little  sprigs  of  Lycopodium 
denticulatum  between  the  bulbs,  or  cover  the  surface  with 


THE   HYACINTH.  71 

green  moss  from  tlie  woods.  The  pLants  will  need  to  be 
kept  moist,  aud  the  leaves  must  be  sponged  to  keep  them 
clean.  Hyacinths  may  also  be  grown  m  turnips  or  carrots, 
hollo\ved  out  as  directed  in  a  preceding  chapter,  aud  pro- 
duce a  pretty  effect. 

IN    POTS. 

As  a  general  rule,  a  hyacinth  should  not  be  grown  in  a 
pot  less  than  twice  the  diameter  of  tlie  bulb  ;  and,  where 
more  than  oue  bulb  is  grown  in  a  pot,  the  distance  between 
each  bulb  should  be  equal  to  the  diameter  of  the  largest. 

For  single  bulbs,  pots  six  inches  in  diameter  are  suffi- 
cient ;  but,  when  they  can  be  procured  (and  any  potter 
can  easily  make  tliem),  we  prefer  a  bulb-pot  four  inches 
wide,  and  from  eight  to  ten  deep,  which  gives  better  room 
for  the  development  of  the  roots.  Three  hyacinths  in  a 
pot  look  very  well,  and  the  same  objections  to  combination 
of  color  do  not  exist  in  house  as  in  garden  planting.  A 
very  pretty  effect  is  produced  by  a  red,  white,  and  blue 
hyacinth  in  the  same  pot. 

The  pots  being  prepared  by  placing  a  crock  on  the  hole 
in  the  bottom  of  each,  aud  the  bulbs  being  ready,  the  offsets 


72  THE   HYACINTH. 

and  all  loose  scales  having  been  removed,  we  proceed  to 
pot  the  bulbs  ;  the  time  being  from  the  first  of  September  to 
the  middle  of  November,  according  to  the  time  at  which  we 
wish  them  to  bloom.  Often,  however,  it  is  best  to  make 
several  plantings,  at  periods  of  from  two  to  four  weeks,  to 
secure  a  succession  of  bloom.  And,  first,  place  about  half 
an  inch  or  more  of  dried  cow-dung,  such  as  may  be  picked 
up  in  the  pastures,  crumbled  fine,  and  free  from  wire- 
worms  or  grubs,  at  the  bottom  of  the  pot ;  then  fill  in 
with  the  prepared  compost,  placing  the  bulb  so  that  its 
apex  is  just  above  the  surface  of  the  soil,  and  the  soil  about 
half  an  inch  from  the  top  of  the  pot  at  the  side,  and  sloping 
from  the  bulb.  Give  a  good  watering  from  the  fine  rose 
of  a  watering-pot,  and  set  the  pots  in  a  sheltered  place,  on 
a  bed  of  coal-ashes,  if  out  doors  or  in  a  cellar.  The  ashes 
will  prevent  earth-worms  from  entering  the  pots.  The 
object  now  is  to  promote  the  growth  of  roots  before  the 
shoot  develops,  which  is  effected  by  "  plunging "  the  pots, 
or  by  putting  them  in  a  dark  frame.  By  the  former 
method,  the  pots  are  placed  close  together,  and  covered 
with  from  four  to  eight  inches  of  coal-ashes,  tan,  or  any 
material  of  similar  nature  ;  and  thus  they  are  to  remain 
until  the  roots  touch  the  sides  of  the  pot,  when  they,  or  as 


THE    HYACINTH.  73 

muDy  as  are  needed  to  bring  iu,  are  taken  out,  and  gradu- 
ally inured  to  the  liglit. 

This  same  object  is  as  well  gained,  however,  by  placing 
the  pots  in  a  cool  cellar,  or  in  a  cold  frame  darkened. 

Hyacinths  thus  plunged  in  coal-ashes  can  be  safely  kept 
all  winter,  and  be  taken  out  and  forced  into  bloom  in 
early  spring,  as  they  are  not  injured  by  frost.  They  need, 
however,  to  be  protected  from  soaking  rains. 

Where  hyacinths  are  required  for  bloom  iu  early  winter, 
they  require  to  be  forced.  For  this  purpose,  about  the  1st 
of  October,  they  are  taken  from  the  frame,  and  placed  in  a 
gentle  hot-bed  made  of  horse-dung,  and  remain  there  till 
the  pots  are  full  of  roots,  and  the  tops  begin  to  start,  which 
will  be  in  about  a  fortnight :  they  are  then  taken  to  the 
greenhouse,  and  gradually  forced  into  bloom  by  gradually 
increasing  the  temperature,  giving  them  plenty  of  air,  keep- 
ing them  near  the  glass,  and  keeping  the  soil  moist,  but  not 
wet.  They  should  have  all  the  sun  that  can  be  given.  The 
temperature  at  its  extreme  should  range  from  55°  to  70°  ; 
and  care  must  be  taken  that  the  plants  experience  no  sud- 
den check. 

By  bringing  in  successive  lots  of  hyacinths,  a  succession 
of  bloom  may  be  had  from  Christmas  to  May  Day.     If  the 


74  THE   HYACINTH. 

grower  has  no  greenhouse,  he  may  grow  the  bulbs  in  a 
parlor  ;  keeping  them  in  the  cellar  until  he  wishes  to  bring 
them  forward,  or  in  a  cold  frame  as  above  directed. 

As  a  general  rule,  hyacinths  potted  in  September  will 
bloom  in  December ;  those  potted  in  October  and  Novem- 
ber, in  January,  February,  and  March :  but  these  seasons 
may  be  greatly  varied  by  forcing  and  retarding. 

When  coming  into  bloom,  hyacinths  should  be  watered 
with  weak  liquid  manure,  unless  potted  with  cow-dung  as 
before  directed,  in  which  case  they  will  not  need  it. 

We  copy  from  an  English  work  the  following  rules  of 
hyacinth-growing,  and  which  apply  well  to  all  Dutch  bulbs. 
The  essentials  to  success  in  growing  hyacinths  are,  — 

'■''Firsts  Placing  the  bulbs  in  a  cool  situation  until  the 
pots  are  filled  with  roots. 

"  Second^  Keeping  them  near  the  glass  ;  for,  the  more 
light,  the  greater  is  the  elaboration  of  the  food  and  the  more 
stiff  is  the  foliage,  the  more  compactly  are  the  bulbs 
arranged,  the  stouter  the  stalk  that  supports  them,  and  the 
brighter  the  color  of  the  flowers. 

"  Thirds  The  size  of  the  flowers,  and  the  shortness,  or 
rather  stiffness,  of  the  spike,  depend  upon  their  having 
plenty  of  air  on  all  favorable  occasions. 


THE   HYACINTH.  75 

''  Fourth,  That  they  have  no  more  heat  than  Is  necessary 
to  maintain  tlie  pUuit  in  a  lieaUhy  growing  state  ;  for,  the 
more  naturally  a  plant  is  excited,  the  more  satisfactory  are 
the  results. 

^' Fifth,  A  free,  open  soil,  with  plenty  of  vegetable 
matter. 

"  Sixth,  Perfect  drainage,  and  being  kept  free  from 
worms. 

"  Seventh,  A  moist  soil  at  all  times,  neither  too  wet  nor 
too  dry ;  but  double  the  quantity  of  moisture  may  be 
afforded  when  the  truss  is  nearly  developed,  every  alternate 
watering  being  with  weak  liquid  manure,  at  the  tempera- 
ture of  the  house  or  room. 

"  Eighth,  When  in  bloom,  their  beauty  will  last  much 
longer  if  they  are  kept  in  an  almost  invariable  temperature 
of  40°  to  45°,  instead  of  a  variable  one  ;  but  they  must 
be  fully  in  flower,  or  the  colors  will  not  be  so  bright  nor  tlie 
flowers  so  fine  without  a  sufficiency  of  light  and  heat. 

"  Ninth,  The  hyacinth  will  bloom  much  more  satisfacto- 
rily in  a  house  from  which  frost  is  only  excluded  than  in 
one  where  fire-heat  is  employed." 

In  selecting  hyacinths  for  early  blooming,  some  regard 
must  be  paid  to  the  variety,  as  some  are  always  early,  some 


76  THE   HYACINTH. 

always  late  bloomers ;  and  it  is  as  useless  to  attempt  to 
obtain  a  Christmas  bloom  from  a  late-blooming  variety  as 
to  obtain  a  satisfactory  March  bloom  from  a  bulb  which 
naturally  blooms  early. 

After  blooming,  water  should  be  gradually  withheld  from 
the  plants  until  the  foliage  turns  yellow,  when  watering 
should  be  wholly  discontinued,  and  the  bulb  allowed  to  rest. 

Miniature  hyacinths,  now  so  popular,  are  only  matured 
small  roots  of  named  hyacinths,  which  bloom  finely  for  their 
size,  and  are  well  adapted  for  parlor  culture. 

PROPAGATION. 

Hyacinths  are  propagated  by  offsets,  by  cross-cuts,  by 
hollowing,  and  by  seed. 

By  Offsets.  —  The  little  bulbs,  or  offsets,  should  not  be 
pulled  off  of  the  parent  bulb,  but  all  should  be  planted 
together  ;  and,  when  the  offsets  have  produced  a  stool  or 
root-base,  they  may  be  removed,  and  treated  like  old  bulbs. 

By  Cross-cuts.  —  Choose  the  strongest  and  healthiest 
bulbs,  and  make  four  cross-cuts  in  the  root-end  half-way  up 
the  bulb.  This  should  be  done  when  the  bulb  is  taken  up 
in  June.     It  should  then  be  treated  like  the  other  bulbs ; 


THE   HYACINTH.  77 

and  the  same  autumn  the  cross-cuts  will  open  pretty  wide, 
and  send  out  young  bulbs  at  the  cut  scales.  They  must  be 
planted  in  this  state  by  themselves,  and,  the  next  year,  are 
separated  and  trimmed.  While  they  are  increasing  in  size, 
very  little  foliage,  or  none  at  all,  appears  on  the  surface  of 
the  beds,  as  the  old  bulb  has  no  longer  any  influence,  and 
the  young  ones  only  exert  their  strength  towards  their  own 
increase. 

By  Hollowing.  —  This  is  usually  done  in  August,  if  the 
weather  is  dry.  The  manner  is  as  follows :  Place  the 
thumb  on  the  root-end  of  the  bulb,  and  cut  round  it  with  a 
sharp  knife,  hollowing  out  the  plate,  or  root-end,  as  far  as 
the  middle  of  the  bulb  ;  and,  when  the  knife  has  passed  in  a 
circular  direction  round  the  bulb,  be  careful  to  take  it  out 
again  where  the  incision  began ;  or  rather  so  make  the  cut, 
that  the  plate,  extending  half-way  into  the  bulb,  may  fall 
out  of  itself.  As  this  operation  causes  a  great  deal  of  moist- 
ure to  flow  from  the  bulb,  and  there  is  danger  of  rot,  it 
should  not  be  undertaken  in  moist  weather.  The  hollowed- 
out  part  of  the  bulb  should  not  be  touched,  but  be  placed  on 
dry  sand  on  a  board,  and  turned  to  the  sun.  After  lying 
some  time,  the  heart,  which  extends  as  far  as  the  point  of 
the  bulb,  and  which  was  not  removed  when  the  bulb  was 


78  THE   HYACINTH. 

hollowed  out,  becomes  detached  by  the  heat  of  the  sun,  and 
may  be  removed.  After  being  properly  dried,  the  bulbs  are 
planted  as  other  bulbs. 

When  the  operation  proves  successful,  a  great  many 
young  bulbs  are  obtained  ;  but  it  generally  takes  four  or  five 
years  to  bring  them  to  perfection,  while  those  obtained  by 
cross-cuts  mature  in  three  years.  Like  those  obtained  from 
cross-cuts,  they  produce  no  leaves  the  first  year. 

By  Seed.  —  Many  varieties  of  hyacinth  ripen  seed  freely, 
which  may  be  sown  in  pans  of  prepared  soil  when  ripe,  and 
nursed  in  a  cold  frame  till  the  seedlings  are  large  enough 
to  be  planted  out  in  beds.  Seedlings  bloom  the  third  or 
fourth  year.  By  the  three  former  operations,  approved 
varieties  are  perpetuated  ;  by  the  latter,  new  varieties  pro- 
duced. 

Of  other  species  of  hyacinth,  there  is  H.  ametJiystinus,  a 
charming  little  plant,  with  blue  bells,  a  native  of  Spain, 
introduced  in  1759,  but  very  rare,  and  probably  not  hardy  ; 
and  H.  sjoicatus,  an  insignificant  plant,  with  white-and-blue 
flowers,  a  native  of  Greece,  and  not  hardy,  introduced  in 
1835,  flowering  in  February. 

The  following  list  of  fine  hyacinths  is  compiled  from  the 
best  English  authority.     Those  marked  with  a  star,  and  all 


THE    HYACINTH. 


79 


the   single  varieties,  are  best  for  early  forcing,  and  culture 
in  water. 


DOUBLi:    BLUE. 


Laurens  Koster.     Indigo  ;  bells  large,  closely  arranged. 
Van  Speyk.     Light  blue,  striped  with  deep   J)lue  ;    fine 
spike,  large  bells. 

*  Paarlboot.     Bright  pearly  blue  ;  fine  bells,  and  spike. 
Pasquin.     Pale  blue  ;  fine  spike,  large  bells. 

*  Comte    de    St.  Priest.     Light   blue ;    fine    bells,  large 
spike. 

Bloksberg.     Fine  marbled  blue  ;  large  bells. 
Garrick.      Intense    deep  blue ;    good    spike,    with    large 
bells,  closely  arranged. 

Rudolphus.     Sky-blue  ;  good  truss. 


80  THE   HYACINTH. 

Prince  Frederick.  Porcelain-blue,  or  lilac-shaded  ;  large 
bells. 

Sir  Colin  Campbell.  Light-shaded  blue  ;  immense  bells  ; 
fine  spike. 

Bouquet    Constant.      Porcelain-blue ;     good    bells    and 

spike. 

Othello.     Very  dark  ;  small  spike,  but  large  bells. 

DOUBLE    RED. 

*  Duke  of  Wellington.  Pale  rose ;  large  bells,  good 
spike. 

Jenny  Lind.  Deep  rose  ;  good  bells,  and  spike. 
Milton.  Fine  deep  red  ;  large  bells,  good  spike. 
Czar  Nicholas.     Rose  ;  good  spike,  fine  bells. 

*  Waterloo.  Pink  at  first,  changing  to  deep  red  ;  fine 
spike,  and  bells. 

Noble"  par  Merite.  Rose ;  striped  carmine,  large  spike, 
immense  bells. 

Groot  Voorst.     Pale  rose  ;  fine  bells. 

*  Princess  Royal.  Fine  rose,  striped  with  deep  pink ; 
fine  bells,  good  spike. 

Kohinoor.     Salmon  ;  fine  bells  and  spike,  perfect  form. 

*  Bouquet  Royale.     Deep  rose,  with  pink  eye. 


THE  HYACINTH.  gj 

Regina  Victoria.     Kosy  piuk  ;  fine  large  spike. 
Susannah  Maria.     Salmon-rose  ;  fine  spike. 


DOUBLE    WHITE. 

*  La  Tour  d'Auvergue.     Pure  white  ;  large  spike. 
Ne  Plus  Ultra.     Large  bells,  and  spike. 

*  Prince  of  Waterloo.     Very  fine  ;  large  bells,  and  spike. 
Sir  Buhver  Lytton.     AVhite,  purple  eye  ;  large  spike,  and 

enormous  bells. 

Anna  Maria.     Blush,  with  pink  eye. 
Sceptre  d'Or.     Pure  white. 
La  Vestale.     Beautiful  white  ;  good  spike. 
Don  Gratuit.     Large  bells  ;  good  spike. 
Triomphe  Blandina.     Blush  ;  deep-pink  eye. 
La  Deesse.     Fine  spike  ;  medium  bells. 

SINGLE    KED. 

Josephine.      Brilliant    vermilion  ;     tlie    best    red ;    good 
spike,  and  bells. 

Cavaignac.     Salmon  ;  deep  rose,  stripes. 
Howard.     Orange-crimson. 


82  THE    HYACINTH. 

Circe.     Pink,  striped  with  carmine. 
Madam  Hodgson.     Pale  pink  ;  very  fine  spike. 
Pelissier.     Scarlet ;  immense  spike. 
Sultan's  Favorite.     Pale  rose  ;  pink  stripes. 
Lady  Sale.     Deep  red,  suffused  with  purple  ;  light  eye, 
Victoria   Alexandrina.      Intense    crimson ;    large  bells, 
fine  spike. 

Queen  Victoria.    Pale  pink  ;  bright-red  stripes. 

Von  Schiller.     Salmon-pink  ;  very  fine. 

Florence  Nightingale.     Pale  pink  ;  carmine  stripes. 


SINGLE   BLUE. 

Bleu  Aimable.     Violet ;  shaded  blue,  fine. 
Argus.     Blue,  white  eye  ;  tube  indigo  blue. 
Charles  Dickens.     Gray  ;  shaded  blue. 
Leonidas.     Clear  blue  ;  fine. 
Regulus.     Pale  blue  ;  fine  bells. 
Madame  Coste.     Deep  blue  ;  fine  spike. 
Grand  Lilas.     Azure-blue. 
Thorwaldsen.     Marbled  blue  ;  immense  bells. 
Porcelain  Sceptre.     Porcelain-blue  ;  deep  shaded. 
Nimrod.     Light  blue  ;  fine  spike,  good  bells. 


THE   HYACINTH.  83 

SINGLE   WHITE. 

Queen  of  the  Netherlands.     Fine  white. 

Madame  van  de  IIoop.     Fine  bells,  and  spike. 

Snowball.     Pure  white  ;  fine  bells,  and  spike. 

Paix  de  TEurope.     Pure  white  ;  small  bells,  but  fine. 

Fair  Maid  of  Denmark.     Splendid  ^vhite  ;   fine  bells. 

Alba  Maxima.     Pure  white  ;  large  bells,  and  spike. 

Victoria  Kegina.     Fine  white  ;  very  good. 

Miss  Burdett  Coutts.     Creamy  blush  ;   very  fine. 

Gigantea.     Blush  ;  fine  spike. 

Lady  Franklin.     Blush  ;  immense  spike. 

Grande  Blanche  Imperiale.     Blush  ;  rosQ  stripes. 

Seraphine.     Blush  ;  immense  spike. 

Elfrida.     Creamy  blush  ;  large  bells. 

SINGLE    BLACK. 

Gen.  Havelock.     Purple,  changing  to  black. 
Prince  Albert.     Fine  bells  on  large  spike. 
La  Nuit.     Deep  purple  black  ;  fine. 
Von  Humboldt.     Purplish  black  ;  white  eye. 
Lamplighter.     Purplish  black,  with  white  eye. 


84  THfi   HYACINTH. 

SINGLE   YELLOW. 

Ida.     Fine  yellow. 

San  Francisco.     Deep  yellow. 

Victor  Hugo.     Fine  bells,  and  spike. 

Due  de  MalakofF.  Straw-color,  with  a  stripe  of  lake  on 
each  segment. 

Aurora.  Straw-color ;  the  tube  splashed  with  pink,  the 
segments  with  pink  of  a  deeper  hue  on  stripes. 

Koning  van  Holland.  Creamy  yellow,  shaded  with 
reddish  orange. 

All  these  single  varieties  force  well,  and  will  do  well  in 
water.  Perhaps  the  earliest  hyacinth  is  L'Ami  du  Coeur, 
single  red. 

THE   PROPERTIES    OF   A  GOOD    HYACINTH,    AS   A   FLORIST 
FLOW^ER,    ARE, 

1.  Each  pip,  or  flower,  should  be  round,  and  not  ragged. 

2.  The  petals  should  be  broad,  thick,  blunt  at  the  ends, 
not  pointed,  and  reflexed  enough  to  throw  up  the  centre 
well. 


THE   HYACINTH.  85 

3.  The  foot-stalk  slioiild  be  strong,  and  liold  the  flower  out 
stiiFiii  a  vertical  position,  that  is,  facing  the  spectator  ;  and 
by  no  means  weak,  to  allow  the  pip  to  hang  with  tlic  face 

■  sloping  towards  the  ground.     Tiie  foot-stalks  should  also  be 
of  a  length  to  make  the  pips  touch  each  other,  and  no  more. 

4.  The  pips  should  be  large  :  for,  unless  the  pips  be  large, 
they  cannot  touch  each  other  without  very  short  foot-stalks  ; 
and  the  flowers  would  be  so  close  to  the  stem,  that  the  truss 
itself  would  be  no  size. 

5.  Double  flowers  should  have  the  rows  of  petals  above 
each  other  very  regularly  imbricated,  so  as  to  throw  up  the 
centre. 

G.  The  outer  petals,  therefore,  of  a  double  flower,  need 
not  reflex,  and  should  not  reflex,  so  much  as  a  single  one, 
because  the  centre  is  raised  by  the  second  and  third  rows 
of  petals. 

7.  The  spike  should  be  bold,  round,  compact,  and  pyram- 
idal, with  a  number  of  flowers  at  the  bottom,  gradually 
diminishing  to  a  single  flower  at  the  top. 

8.  The  flower-stem  should  be  very  strong  and  upright ; 
and  no  part  of  it  should  be  seen  from  the  lowest,  flowers  to 
the  top,  in  consequence  of  the  closeness  of  the  pips  to  each 
other. 

9.  The  colors  should  be  bright,  clear,  and  dense,  what- 


86 


THE   SCILLA. 


ever  the  shade  ;  and  any  better  approach  to  scarlet,  blue,  or 
yellow,  than  those  shades  we  now  possess,  would  be  highly 
esteemed :  flowers  with  dark  eyes,  very  clear  outsides,  and 
those  with  striped  petals,  would  be  held  to  be  better  than 
selfs  in  general,  but  would  give  no  point  against  form. 

THE   SCILLA. 

This  is  a  lovely  genus  of  small  bulbs,  with  blue,  white, 
or  pink  flowers.  They  are  mostly  very  early  flowering, 
and  are  very  effective  as  borders  for  bulb-beds  or  in  masses. 

The  prevailing  color  is  blue.  The  flowers  are  produced  in 
spikes,  composed  of  from  six  to  twelve  pendent  bells.  The 
bulbs  are  generally  hardy  enough  to  endure  the  winter  with 
the  protection  usually  given  to  a  bulb-bed,  and  require  no 
further  treatment  than  to  be  planted  from  one  to  two  inches 
deep  in  October  or  November,  in  a  rather  light  soil :  that 
usually  prepared  for  bulbs  suits  them  well.  When  once 
planted,  they  should  not  be  disturbed  oftener  than  is 
required  for  division. 

As  the  individual  bulbs  are  small,  they  should  always  be 
grown  in  masses,  or  iij  double  or  triple  lines,  as  otherwise 
they  are  not  effective.  Each  species  should  also  be  planted 
by  itself. 


THE   SCILLA.  87 

Scilla  Siherica  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful ;  and  no 
word  can  convey  an  idea  of  the  brilliant  blue  of  the  blos- 
soms. 

Scillas  are  well  adapted  for  growth  in  pots,  in  earth  or 
sand,  and  only  require  to  be  planted  in  November,  kept  in 
a  dark,  cool  place  until  they  have  made  plenty  of  roots, 
and  then  gradually  inured  to  light  and  heat.  They  look 
better  in  pans  than  in  pots  ;  and  the  bulbs  should  be  planted 
about  an  inch  deep,  and  about  the  same  distance  from  each 
other  every  Avay. 

The  principal  varieties  are 

Scilla  Siberica. — This  species  is  one  of  the  hardiest 
and  best.  As  its  name  implies,  it  is  a  native  of  Siberia. 
The  flowers  are  brilliant,  intense  blue,  and  produced,  one  to 
four,  on  a  short  spike. 

Scilla  precox.  —  This  species  has  flowers  of  the  same 
brilliant  blue  color  as  the  last.  It  is  a  native  of  Germany, 
and  more  tender  than  S.  Siberica.  It  was  introduced  in 
1790,  but  is  not  common. 

Scilla  cernua.  —  This  species  bears  a  great  resem- 
blance to  the  English  harebell  {JB'ijacinthus,  Scilla,  or  lly- 
ogalum,  non  scriptus),  but  diflTers  slightly  botanically.  It 
is  a  native  of  Spain,  and  has  been  long  in  cultivation.    The 


88  THE  SCILLA. 

flowers  are  drooping,  pale  pink,  or  purple.  It  requires 
winter  protection  in  the  Northern  States. 

SciLLA  CAMPANULATA.  —  This  is  one  of  the  finest  species  ; 
common  and  hardy,  although  a  native  of  Spain.  The 
plant  is  very  floriferous  and  effective :  the  color  is  blue  ; 
but  there  are  pink  and  white  varieties,  of  which  the  latter 
is  the  best  white  squill  in  cultivation. 

SciLLA  PATULA.  —  This  spccies  has  dark-purple,  pink,  or 
white  flowers,  and  greatly  resembles  S,  cernua,  but,  unlike 
it,  has  flowers  all  round  the  spike.  It  is  a  native  of  Spain, 
and  is  generally  hardy. 

S.  AMCENULA  lias  Starry,  blue  flowers,  which  are  produced 
before  the  leaves.  It  greatly  resembles  S.  Siberica^  and  is 
a  native  of  the  north  of  Europe.  The  bulb  produces  several 
flower-scapes,  which  are  from  one  to  three  flowered. 

S.  AMCENA.  —  This  is  one  of  the  best  species,  and,  though 
a  native  of  the  Levant,  is  generally  hardy.  The  flowers 
are  bright  blue,  produced  on  an  erect  spike.  Introduced 
in  1596. 

S.  VERNA.  —  This  species  is  a  native  of  England.  The 
flowers  are  blue,  pink,  or  white,  and  fragrant.  They  do 
best  in  moist,  sandy  soil. 

S.  AUTUMNALis. — Another  British  species,  growing  freely 
in  sandy  soil.     Flowers  pink  in  September. 


THE   SCILLA.  gg 

S.  BiFOLiA.  —  A  very  pretty  species,  Ocative  of  FraDce, 
with  blue  flowers,  and  wliite  and  pink  varieties,  all  of 
which  are  desirable.  It  requires  no  care  beyond  planting 
in  sandy  loam. 

S.  Peruviana.  —  A  fine  species,  native  of  Italy  and 
Spain.  It  has  blue  or  white  flowers,  in  large,  erect  trusses. 
The  soil  must  be  light  and  sandy,  and  plenty  of  water  must 
be  given  when  in  growth.     It  is  probably  only  half-hardy. 

SciLLA  ESCULENTA.  —  This  plant  is  a  native  of  Missouri, 
and  produces  a  spike  of  pretty  blue  flowers.  It  is  not 
hardy  in  New  England.* 

The  following  species  are  only  valuable  in  a  collection. 
Most  of  them  are  tender,  and  none  particularly  desirable. 

S.  umheUata. — Native  of  Pyrenees,  introduced  in  1822; 
flowers  blue. 

S.  Lilio  hyacinthus.  —  Native  of  south  of  Europe,  intro- 
duced in  1597  ;  flowers  blue. 

S.  hrevifoUa.  —  Native  of  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  intro- 
duced in  1811  ;  flowers  white. 

S.  corymhosa. — Native  of  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  intro- 
duced in  1793  ;  flowers  pink. 

*S'.  Italica.  —  Native  of  Switzerland,  introduced  in  1G05  ; 
flowers  purplish. 

*  See  Camassia  esculenta. 


90  THE   URGINEA.  —  THE    MYOGALUM. 

>S'.  Lusitanica. — Native  of  Portugal,  introduced  in  1777  ; 
flowers  blue. 

S.  hyacinthoides.  —  Native  of  Madeira,  introduced  in 
1585  ;  flowers  lead-color. 

There  are  other  species  of  little  cultural  value.  * 

THE    URGINEA. 

This  plant  is  also  known  as  Scilla  maritima  and  Orwz- 
thogalum  maritimum.  It  is  a  native  of  the  shores  of  the 
Mediterranean,  and  is  of  some  officinal  value. 

It  is  not  uncommon  in  cultivation,  but  is  not  hardy. 
The  bulb  is  large  ;  the  flowers,  greenish- white,  on  a  very- 
long  spike,  are  produced  in  summer  ;  and  the  foliage  grows 
during  the  winter.  The  bulbs  should  be  grown  in  sand ; 
but  they  are  hardly  worthy  of  culture. 

THE  MYOGALUM. 

This  name  has  been  given  to  the  plant  commonly  known 
as  "  British  harebell,"  and  botanically  as  Scilla,  or  Hya- 
cinthus  non  scriptus. 

The  flowers  are  blue  nodding,  and  somewhat  resemble  a 

*  See  "  Garden  Flo-wers." 


THE  NARCISSUS. 


91 


hyacinth,  and  also  are  very  like  those  of  Scilla  cernua.     It 
is  an  elegant  little  flower,  requiring  very  little  care,  save  to 
be  planted  in  a  danip,  shady  spot,  and  left  to  take  care  of 
itself.     It  is  a  well-known  wild-flower  in  England,  but  is 
little  known  in  this  country.     The  name  "harebell"  is  a 
strange  misnomer  ;  although  the  flowers  have  a  slight  resem- 
blance to  the   campanula,  usually  so    called.      There    are 
varieties  with  pink  and  white  flowers;  but  they  are  not  as 
desirable  as  the  species.     The  plant  would  probably  prove 
hardy  with  slight  protection. 


THE   NARCISSUS. 


This  is  a  very  extensive  family  of  well-known  and  pop- 
ular garden-flowers.     Their  culture  is  very  simple,  as  they 


92  THE   NARCISSUS. 

thrive  in  any  good  garden-loam,  and  need  little  care  after 
planting.  All  the  species  are  hardy  in  England,  and  most 
of  them  thrive  out  of  doors  in  the  Middle  and  Southern 
states  ;  but  many  of  the  most  beautiful,  and  especially  the 
polyanthus  group,  are  not  hardy  enough  to  perfectly  stand 
a  New-England  winter,  though  they  often  survive  unin- 
jured. 

The  hardy  species  should  be  planted  in  clumps,  the  bulbs 
about  two  inches  apart  each  way,  and  three  inches  deep,  in 
good  garden-soil,  in  October ;  and  need  not  be  disturbed 
oftener  than  once  in  three  or  four  years,  and  not  then 
unless  they  have  crowded  each  other  by  the  production  of 
offsets.  If  the  soil  is  wet,  they  are  benefited  by  the  addi- 
tion of  a  little  sand  placed  around  each  bulb.  They  all 
propagate  well  by  offsets,  and  may  also  be  increased  by 
seed,  which,  in  most  species,  ripens  plentifully. 

Many  species,  especially  those  of  the  polyanthus  tribe, 
are  often  grown  in  the  house  for  winter-flowering.  They 
may  be  successfully  grown  in  water,  sand,  or  earth  ;  and 
require  the  same  treatment  as  hyacinths. 

The  jonquil  is  a  species  of  narcissus,  easily  grown  in  the 
house  or  garden,  and  always  a  favorite  for  its  bright,  fvd- 
gi-ant  flowers.     The  chief  species  of  narcissus  are  — 


THE   NARCISSUS.  93 

N.  rOETicus.  —  Tin's  very  common  and  beantiful  species 
is  a  native  of  Southern  Europe.  There  are  many  varieties, 
including  double  and  semi-double  ;  but  all  are  easily  dis- 
tinguished from  other  species  by  the  deep-purple  ring  in 
the  centre  of  the  color,  round  the  margin  of  the  cup.  The 
flowers  are  solitary,  white,  with  a  yellow  cup,  bordered  by 
red,  purple,  or  orange. 

This  species  needs  a  deep,  rather  moist  soil,  and  in  such 
never  fails  to  expand  its  flowers.  In  poor  soils,  the  flowers 
are  very  apt  to  dry  up  in  the  bud-sheath,  Avliich  they  do  not 
appear  to  have  strength  to  break.  The  double  varieties 
are  more  liable  to  this  disease  than  the  single.  All  the 
varieties  are  perfectly  hardy,  and,  once  planted,  may 
remain   undisturbed  for  years. 

N.  BiFLOKUS.  —  The  origin  of  this  species  is  unknown  : 
it  has,  however,  been  a  garden-flower  for  several  hundred 
years.  It  resembles  the  species  last  described,  but  is 
readily  distinguished  by  having  two  or  three  flowers  on  a 
stem,  and  by  the  rim  of  the  cup  being  white.  The  flowers 
are  handsome,  and  very  fragrant.  The  species  and  vari- 
eties are  perfectly  hardy,  though  not  very  common. 

N.  GRACILIS.  —  A  common  and  pretty  pale-yellow  species, 
with  a  deeper-colored  variety :  both  hardy,  and  growing 
freely  in  any  garden-soil. 


94  THE   NARCISSUS. 

N.  BULBOCODiUM.  —  Tliis  is  the  well-known  and  hand- 
some hoop-petticoat  narcissus.  The  flowers  are  bright 
yellow,  with  wavy  margin,  and  are  very  ornamental. 
Though  a  native  of  Portugal,  it  generally  proves  hardy, 
but  needs  to  be  a  little  favored  by  planting  it  in  a  sheltered 
situation. 

There  is  another  species  nearly  allied  to  this,  known  as 
N.  Cantabricus^  or  Corhularia  albicans,  or  Cantahricus, 
which  has  white  flowers,  and  which  is  desirable. 

N.  TENUiFOLius  is  a  closely  allied  species  of  smaller 
growth,  which  is  rather  tender. 

N.  PSEUDO-NARCISSUS. — -This  is  the  common  daffodil, 
too  well  known  to  need  description.  It  sports  into  many 
varieties,  and  is  usually  found  in  a  double  form.  The  bulb 
only  requires  to  be  planted  in  good  soil,  and  to  be  undis- 
turbed. 

N.  MINOR. — A  pretty  little  species,  with  many  varieties, 
as  nanus,  pumiluSj  minimus,  all  with  bright-yellow  flowers 
and  dwarf  habit,  perfectly  hardy,  and  very  ornamental ;  na- 
tive of  Spain,  but  long  an  inhabitant  of  the  garden. 

N.  BICOLOR. — This  species  differs  from  the  common 
daffodil  by  the  difference  of  color  between  the  cup  and 
remainder  of  the  flower ;  the  former  being  all  shades  of 


THE  NARCISSUS.  95 

cream  or  white  in  different  varieties,  the  latter  being  yellow. 
The  stalk  is  round,  while  that  of  the  common  daffodil  is 
flat.  It  is  hardy,  and  only  requires  simple  garden-cul- 
ture. 

N.  MOSCHATUS.  —  A  pretty  species,  with  whitish  flowers  ; 
in  some  of  the  varieties,  very  drooping ;  often  known  as 
white  Spanish  daffodil.  It  is  hardy,  but  needs  rich  soil  to 
bloom  well.     Introduced  from  Spain  in  1759. 

N.  MAJOR.  —  The  species  commonly  called  great  yellow 
Spanish  daffodil  has  been  very  showy  in  our  garden  for 
a  number  of  years.  It  thrives  in  a  deep  sandy  loam,  and 
is  a  great  improvement  on  the  common  daffodil. 

N.  MONTANUS.  —  This  is  a  beautiful  species,  with  white, 
graceful,  drooping  flowers.  It  is  of  rather  difficult  culture, 
needing  a  deep,  rich,  moist  soil,  and  a  sheltered  situation. 
It  is  a  native  of  the  Pyrenees,  and  has  long  been  known  as 
a  garden-flower. 

N.  JONQUiLLA.  — This  name  is  from  juncus,  a  diminutive, 
signifying  "  little  rush  ;"  and  the  species  is  one  of  the  most 
popular  of  the  family.  The  flowers  of  all  the  varieties  are 
bright  yellow,  fragrant,  and  freely  produced.  All  are  well 
suited  for  window-plants,  as  the  flowers  seldom  fail  to  ex- 
pand, and  continue  a  long  time  in  perfection.     A  bulb-case 


96  THE   NARCISSUS. 

planted  with  jonquils  is  a  charming  winter  ornament  for 
the  parlor. 

N.  TAZETTA.  —  Under  this  head  we  must  include  all  the 
varieties  of  the  polyanthus  narcissus.  The  name  is  a  dimin- 
utive, from  tazza^  "  a  cup  ; "  and  its  application  is  obvious. 
The  many  varieties  are  all  handsome,  and  only  differ  in  the 
colors  of  the  cup  and  petals,  and  in  sturdiness  of  growth. 
The  earliest  variety  is  Gloriosa,  white,with  yellow  cup.  Other 
fine  varieties  are  Bazelman  major,  white,  yellow  cup  ;  Bazel- 
man  minor,  white  and  yellow ;  Bouquet-triompliant,  white, 
orange  cup  ;  Grand  monarque,  white,  citron  cup  ;  Grand pri- 
mo,  white^  citron  cup  ;  Grand  soleil  d'or,  yellow,  orange 
cup  ;  Luna,  pure  white ;  Newton,  yellow ;  Queen  of  the 
Netherlands,  very  large,  white ;  Staten- General,  lemon  and 
yellow. 

When  grown  in  the  open  air  in  New  England,  these  bulbs 
are  apt  to  start  in  the  autumn,  and  have  the  shoot  killed 
in  the  winter.  The  only  remedy  is  to  take  them  out  of  the 
ground  when  the  foliage  has  decayed,  and  keep  them  in  a 
cool  place  till  November,  when  they  may  be  replanted. 
They  also  need  a  sheltered  situation,  and  to  be  well  covered 
with  leaves  during  the  winter. 

For  house-culture  they  are  charming  subjects,  requiring 
the  same  treatment  prescribed  for  hyacinths. 


THE   NARCISSUS.  97 

N.  Italicus.  —  This  pretty  species  and  its  varieties  are 
not  hardy.  The  flower  is  white  and  very  pretty,  but  is  sel- 
dom seen  in  cultivation. 

N.  PAPniACEUS. — This  species,  usually  known  as  the 
paper-white  narcissus,  is  very  ornamental,  but  not  hardy. 
It,  however,  docs  well  in  the  greenhouse,  and  blooms  very 
early  in  the  winter.  The  variety  called  "  Double  Roman  " 
has  peculiar  yellow  and  white  mixed  flowers,  and  blooms 
iibout  Christmas.  It  is  very  valuable  as  a  parlor-plant 
and  for  early  forcing. 

There  are  many  other  species,*  — Loudon  enumerating 
about  fifty,  —  and  innumerable  seedling  varieties  :  all  are 
worthy  of  cultivation,  and  will  well  repay  the  care  of  the 
amateur.  The  fanciful  divisions  of  the  fomily  proposed  by 
some  botanists  have  not  been  adopted,  and  all  are  now- 
known  as  narcissus. 

*  See  "  Garden  Flowers." 
7 


VII. 

THE   SNOWDROP,   LEUCOJUM,   CROCUS. 
THE    SNOWDROP. 

0  N  Gr  before  the  balmy  breezes 
of  spring  remind  us  that  it  cannot 
be  always  winter,  the  snowdrop 
wakens  from  its  sleep,  and  glad- 
dens our  eyes  by  its  simple  beauty  and  sweet  perfume.  Later 
in  the  season,  when  the  garden  is  gay  with  flowers,  it  would 
be  almost  unnoticed :  but  for  long,  dreary  days,  it  is  the 
flower  of  spring ;  and,  as  such,  we  love  and  cherish  it. 

The  snowdrop  thrives  in  any  good  garden-soil  enriched 
by  well-rotted  manure  or  leaf-mould.  It  will  live  and  bloom 
in  almost  any  situation,  and  will  endure  a  great  amount  of 
hard  treatment  before  it  is  finally  killed  :  but  few  flowers 
better  repay  care  and  good  culture.  The  bulbs  should  be 
planted  in  September  or  October,  the  earlier  the  better,  to 
enable  them  to  make  good  roots  and  growth  before   the 


THE   SNOWDROP.  99 

ground  freezes  up.  They  should  be  set  about  two  or  three 
inches  deep,  and  about  an  inch  apart,  in  triple  lines  or  in 
clumps,  as,  if  planted  singly,  they  are  not  conspicuous.  The 
bulbs  should  not  be  kept  long  out  of  the  ground,  and  are 
not  benefited  by  frequent  transplanting.  Some  writers 
advise  annually  replanting  them  after  the  foliage  decays, 
and  the  removal  of  all  offsets.  This  may  be  advantageous 
if  increase  is  the  object ;  but  our  experience  has  shown 
that  it  is  best  to  disturb  the  clumps  only  when  the  increase 
of  offsets  renders  them  too  large  or  crowded,  or  when  the 
bulbs  grow  out  of  the  ground,  which  they  do  in  a  few  years 
in  a  border,  unless  the  soil  is  annually  top-dressed. 

The  flowers  of  all  species  appear  very  early  in  the  season  ; 
generally,  however,  in  New  England,  not  before  the  first  of 
February,  even  in  most  favorable  situations  and  in  most 
sheltered  platies ;  and  continue  in  perfection  a  very  long 
time,  closing  in  cloudy,  inclement  weather,  and  expanding  in 
sunshine.  By  planting  in  different  exposures,  a  succession 
may  be  had  from  February  to  May.  The  single  variety 
expands  earlier  than  the  double,  and  is  followed  by  the 
large  Crimean  snowdrop,  which  is  larger  than  either. 
The  single  snowdrop  is  a  native  of  England,  and  is  found 
in  shady  woods  where  there   is  a  rich  deposit  of  vegetable 


100  THE  LEUCOJUM. 

matter  or  leaf-mould.  The  double  form  is  a  garden  variety. 
The  species  are 

G.  NIVALIS.  —  The  single  snowdrop  with  double  variety  ; 
and 

G.  PLiCATUS.  —  The  Crimean  or  Russian  snowdrop,  which 
is  twice  as  large  as  the  common  species,  of  the  same  color, 
with  broad  leaves,  and  flower-stems  nine  inches  high. 

THE    LEUCOJUM. 

All  the  species  of  this  plant  are  commonly  known  as 
snowflakes,  and  differ  but  little  save  in  the  time  of  bloom- 
ing. 

The  bulbs  are  rather  large,  and  only  require  to  be  planted 
in  good  garden-soil,  where  they  take  care  of  themselves,  and 
bloom  freely  every  year.  They  propagate  readily  by  offsets, 
and  also  ripen  seed :  almost  all  are  hardy  enough  to  stand 
a  New-England  winter.     The  species  are 

L.  (Erixosma)  vernum.  —  A  very  pretty  bulb,  much 
resembling  the  snowdrop,  but  flowering  a  month  later.  It 
is  a  little  tender,  and  needs  a  rather  peaty  soil  to  bloom  it 
successfully.  It  is  a  native  of  Germany  and  Italy,  and  has 
been  in  cultivation  since  1596. 


THE  LEUCOJUM.  101 

There  is  a  variety  sometimes  called  L.  Carpathicum^ 
■vvliieli  differs  from  the  species  iu  having  yellow  spots  on 
the  flower  instead  of  green,  and  iu  having  two  flowers  on 
one  stalk. 

L.  iESTivuM.  —  Tills  pretty  plant  is  common  in  gardens. 
The  flowers  are  white,  with  bright-green  spots,  the  foliage 
having  a  yellowish  tinge.  It  is  a  native  of  England  and 
other  parts  of  Europe,  and  is  perfectly  hardy  in  any  situa- 
tion. 

L.  indcliellinn  is  only  a  variety  of  this  species. 

The  other  species  of  Leucojum  have  been  called  Acis 
by  many  botanists,  and  are  readily  distingushed  from  those 
above  described  by  the  narrowness  of  the  leaves  and  the 
smallness  of  the  flowers.  They  are  by  no  means  as  orna- 
mental as  those  above  described,  and  are  less  liardy. 

L.  (Acis)  AUTUMXALis.  —  This  is  a  pretty  little  species, 
with  pink  flowers,  produced  in  autumn  before  the  leaves. 
It  is  a  native  of  Spain  and  Algiers,  and  requires  green- 
house treatment. 

L.  (Acis)  trichophyllum.  —  This  is  a  small  species, 
growing  only  a  few  inches  high.  The  flowers  are  white, 
and  produced  in  spring.  It  requires  greenhouse  culture 
and  a  sandy  soil. 


102  THE   CROCUS. 

L.  (Acis)  ROSEUM.  —  The  flowers  of  this  species  are  rose- 
color,  drooping ;  produced,  three  or  four  in  succession,  in 
autumn.  It  requires  greenhouse  protection,  sandy  loam, 
and  to  be  kept  hot  and  dry  when  at  rest. 

A  species  called  grandiflorum  has  large,  white,  drooping 
'  nvers. 

THE    CROCUS. 

This  pretty  spring-flow^ering  plant  is  common  in  every 
garden  ;  and  like  the  snowdrop,  which  it  succeeds  in  its 
period  of  flowering,  it  will  endure  a  vast  amount  of  ill 
treatment,  but  is  none  the  less  benefited  by  careful  culture. 

The  crocus  is  primarily  divided  into  two  classes,  —  those 
flowering  in  spring  and  those  blooming  in  autumn.  Of  the 
number  of  species,  there  is  great  question  among  botanists. 
Loudon  enumerates  sixteen.  Mrs.  Loudon,  in  her  charming 
work  on  "  Bulbs,"  speaks  of  ninety  species  and  varieties. 
Sweet,  in  his  '■'  Catalogue  of  Plants,"  gives  but  twenty ;  and 
the  catalogues  of  modern  florists  almost  ignore  the  species, 
but  give  us  scores  of  seminal  varieties.  Indeed,  such  has 
been  the  improvement  in  this  flower  since  it  came  into  the 
culturist's  hands,  that  the  varieties  exceed  in  beauty  any  of 
the  species,  most  of  which  are  now  found  only  in  botanic 


THE   CROCUS.  103 

gardens  or  with  amateur  collectors,  if,  indeed,  many  are 
not  lost  to  cultivation.  Tiie  crocus  is  a  native  of  Europe 
and  Middle  Asia,  but  has  from  a  very  early  period  been 
domesticated  in  the  garden. 

The  culture  is  only  to  plant  them  in  a  rich,  light,  damp 
soil,  but  where  no  water  will  stand  around  the  bulbs,  and 
leave  them  to  take  care  of  themselves.  They  are,  however, 
benefited  by  an  annual  top-dressing  of  well-rotted  manure. 

Tlie  bulbs  should  be  planted  three  inches  deep,  and 
should  not  be  disturbed  oftener  than  once  in  three  or  four 
years,  and  then  only  if  they  are  growing  out  of  the  ground. 
When  it  is  necessary  to  remove  them,  it  should  be  done 
as  soon  as  the  foliage  dies  ;  and  the  bulbs  should  be  imme- 
diately replanted.  There  are  very  few  hardy  bulbs  that  are 
improved  by  the  annual  drying  and  transplanting  process. 

A  bed  of  crocus  does  not  arrive  at  its  full  beauty  until 
the  second  or  third  year  after  planting ;  and,  after  that,  it 
will  continue  to  improve  for  many  years,  if  the  bulbs  were 
not  originally  planted  too  close  together,  and  thus  become 
crowded.  The  proper  distance  to  plant  the  bulbs  is  one 
inch  apart  each  w^ay.  It  is  to  be  remembered,  however, 
that  the  crocus  grows  and  increases  upwards,  and  not 
laterally. 


104  THE   CROCUS. 

Crocus  do  not  thrive  well  under  the  shade  of  trees,  as 
they  do  not  seem  to  mature  their  foliage  before  the  sunlight 
is  shut  off  from  them. 

Imported  bulbs  should  be  planted  as  soon  as  possible  in 
the  autumn  ;  the  earlier  the  better. 

There  is  no  better  plant  for  clumps,  lines,  masses,  or 
even  Avhole  beds,  for  the  early  spring-garden  ;  and  very 
striking  effects  may  be  produced  by  judicious  planting. 
With  this  flower,  as  with  most  others,  there  is  nothing 
gained  by  mixing  varieties  or  colors  :  each  color  should  be 
in  a  mass  or  line  by  itself,  and  should  contrast  strongly  with 
those  on  either  side.  We  clip  the  following  directions  for 
planting  beds  from  an  article  in  an  English  magazine  :  — 

"  Very  fine  beds  may  be  formed  by  planting  a  double  row 
of  3Iont  Blanc^  white,  six  inches  from  the  edge  ;  six  inches 
from  that,  again,  a  double  row  o^  Prince  Albert,  blue  ;  then, 
at  a  like  distance,  Dutch  crocus,  yellow ;  a  fourth,  of  La 
llajesteuse,  striped ;  a  fifth,  of  Othello,  dark  violet ;  and 
Giant  Yellow  in  the  centre.  This  will  be  splendid  for  a 
circular  bed  seven  feet  across.  For  a  border  six  feet 
wide,  we  have  the  first  row  six  inches  from  the  edge  ;  a 
double  one,  white.  Queen  Victoria:  the  others  being,  second, 
Cloth  of  Gold,  yellow ;    third.    Garibaldi,   purple  ;  fourth, 


THE   CROCUS.  105 

Alet f a  Wilheimena,  white,  flamed  with  violet ;  ^hh,  New  Large 
Yellow;  sixth,  Vulcan,  deep  purple.  The  second  row  is 
one  foot  from  the  first,  and  so  on  ;  early  tulips  being  planted 
between  each.  Again  :  we  have  a  border  twelve  feet  wide, 
to  be  planted  as  follows,  in  twenty-four  rows :  Queen  Vic- 
toria, white  ;  Captain  Cook,  purple  ;  Cloth  of  Gold,  yellow  ; 
Argus,  violet,  white  margin  ;  David  Rizzio,  dark  purple  ; 
Sulphureus,  brimstone-yellow  ;  2Iont  Blanc,  Avhite  ;  Prince 
Albert,  purple  ;  Large  Yellow  ;  Cloth  of  Silver,  white,  pur- 
ple stripes  ;  Ne  Plus  Ultra,  blue,  tipped  with  white  ;  Yellow 
Dutch  ;  Princess  of  Wales,  dark  purple  ;  Caroline  Chishohn, 
white;  New  Large  Yellow;  Alhion,  blue,  white-and-blue 
stripes ;  Van  Speyk,  feathered,  blue  and  white ;  Yellow 
Dutch  ;  Lord  Baglan,  dark  blue  ;  Diana,  white  ;  Cloth  of 
Gold  ;  Lilaceus  superhus,  light  violet,  white  margin  ;  Versi- 
color, white,  purple  veins  ;  Large  Yellow  ;  Grande  Vedette." 
If,  after  blooming,  the  crocus-bed  is  wanted  for  other 
flowers,  the  bulbs  may  be  removed  in  clumps,  with  balls  of 
earth,  to  a  reserve  garden,  after  blooming,  and,  in  autumn, 
be  retransplanted  to  their  original  position.  A  good  plan, 
however,  is  to  plant  the  crocus  in  double  rows  ;  the  first, 
six  inches  from  the  edge  of  the  border,  and  the  next  a  foot 
from   the  edge,  and  so   on  ;  which   leaves   space  for   early 


106  THE    CROCUS. 

tulips,  which  are  done  flowering  in  time  to  have  their 
places  supplied  by  bedding-plants :  and  thus  the  crocuses 
are  not  disturbed,  and  their  foliage  renders  the  tulips  more 
effective. 

For  house-culture  the  crocus  is  well  adapted,  and  does 
well  grown  in  earth  or  water :  bloomed  in  a  pan  of  white 
sand,  the  yellow  and  purple  varieties  are  very  pretty. 

In  England,  there  are  glasses  made  especially  for  crocus 
culture  ;  but  we  do  not  remember  to  have  seen  them  in  this 
country. 

Crocus,  snowdrops,  and  similar  bulbs,  may  be  had  in 
bloom  about  Christmas  by  taking  up  the  most  promising 
clumps  from  the  border  about  the  last  of  October,  and  pot- 
ting them  in  small  pots,  in  leaf-mould.  Water  them,  and 
keep  them  in  a  cold  frame  till  well  established ;  then  place 
them  in  a  cool  greenhouse,  on  shelves  near  the  glass,  where 
they  can  have  plenty  of  air  in  pleasant  weather.  "Water 
them  well ;  and,  about  the  last  of  November,  remove  them 
to  a  light,  airy  shelf  in  a  greenhouse,  where  the  thermome- 
ter registers  50°  at  night.  If  they  do  not  advance  suf- 
ciently  rapidly,  increase  the  heat ;  but  always  bear  in  mind 
that  air  and  light,  and  not  too  high  a  temperature,  are 
the  conditions  of  success.     Crocus  are    easily  raised  from 


THE    CROCUS.  107 

seed,  wliieh  ripens  freely.  The  seeds  should  be  gathered 
just  before  the  pods  burst,  kept  about  a  month  in  tlie  pods, 
and  then  be  sown  in  drills  in  the  garden.  If  the  soil  is 
rich  (and  it  cannot  be  too  rich),  many  will  bloom  the  third 
year.  The  crocus  seeds  under  ground  ;  the  pods  coming 
to  the  surface  only  when  the  seeds  are  ripe. 

Some  of  the  species  which  are  the  parents  of  the  garden 
varieties  are 

C.  hijlorus.  —  This  species,  commonly  known  as  the 
Scotch  (though  why  would  be  difficult  to  say)  or  twin- 
flowering  crocus,  is  a  native  of  the  Crimea,  and  is  very 
hardy,  and  early  flowering.  It  will  grow  with  little  care, 
but  is  impatient  of  removal.  The  flowers  are  twin  ;  of  a 
Avhite,  striped  with  purple  ;  and  remain  long  in  perfection. 

C.  vermis. — This  is  the  wild  English  species,  though 
probably  only  naturalized,  and  not  indigenous.  The  flower 
is  pale  lilac,  varying  to  white  and  purple,  but  never  yellow. 
It  ripens  seed  freely. 

C.  versicolor. — This  is  the  parent  of  many  of  the  fine 
seedling  varieties.  The  flower  is  purple  and  white,  and 
very  fragrant. 

C.  Susianus.  —  The  cloth-of-gold  crocus  has  been  an 
inhabitant  of  the   garden   for  many  hundred  years.     The 


108  THE   CROCUS. 

flowers  are  yellow  inside,  with  dark  lines  on  the  outer  part 
of  the  petals :  they  expand  early  in  spring,  after  the  Scotch 
crocus,  and  before  the  larger-flowered  varieties.  It  is  a 
native  of  Southern  Europe. 

G.  luteus.  —  This  is  the  well-known  large  yellow  crocus, 
so  effective  from  its  brilliant  color  on  sunny  days  in  spring. 
It  is  a  native  of  the  Levant,  but  has  been  in  cultivation 
since  1620. 

In  England,  this  species,  as  indeed  all  yellow  crocus,  is 
attacked  by  sparrows,  who,  in  a  pure  spirit  of  mischief,  tear 
the  flowers  to  pieces,  and  spoil  the  beauty  of  the  bed.  In 
this  country,  however,  we  experience  little  trouble  from 
this  cause.  There  are  many  other  species,  among  which 
we  may  mention  C.  minimus,  reticulatus,  lagenceflorus, 
sulphureus,  suavolens,  ImperaU,,  and  the  autumn-flowering 
species,  sativus,  or  saffron  crocus,  producing  the  saffi'on  of 
commerce,  which  is  the  stigma  of  the  flower  ;  G.  serotinus, 
speciosus,  and  autumnalis,  which  differ  from  the  spring- 
blooming  species  in  the  season  of  flowering,  and  require  the 
same  g-eneral  culture. 


EING  wholly  deslitiite  of  the  delicate  grace 
i  of  many  bulbs,  the  tulip  is  ever  attractive 
from  its  beauty,  and  brilliancy  of  color,  and 
delicate  markings.  Probably  no  Hower  was 
ever  a  subject  of  commercial  speculation,  or  rather  gam- 
bling, to  such  an  extent ;  and  the  history  of  the  "  Tulipo- 
mania  "  in  the  latter  part  of  the  sixteenth  and  early  part  of 
the  seventeenth  centuries,  when  as  much  as  five  hundred 
pounds  were  paid  for  a  single  bulb,  is  a  most  readable 
chapter  of  extravagant  delusion.  Although  the  mania  has 
long  since  been  seen  in  its  true  light,  yet,  even  at  the  pres- 
ent time,  larger  sums  are  paid  for  tulips  than  for  any  other 

109 


110  THE   TULIP. 

bulb  ;  and  the  raiser  of  a  new  and  really  fine  tulip  is  sure 
to  find  a  profit  in  the  operation. 

All  our  garden  tulips,  that  is,  "  show  varieties,"  are  the 
offspring  of  T.  Gesneriana.  The  other  species,  however, 
are  very  curious,  and  some  very  beautiful,  and  are  Avell 
worthy  of  a  place  in  the  garden. 

While  volumes  have  been  written  upon  the  culture  of  the 
tulip,  its  successful  growth  is  by  no  means  difficult.  The 
beds  are  usually  prepared  four  feet  wide,  and  excavated 
about  thirty  inches  deep  :  about  six  inches  of  well-rotted 
horse  or  sheep  dung  is  placed  in  the  bottom,  and  the  bed 
filled  up,  about  four  inches  above  the  former  level,  Avith 
light  rich  soil.  In  this  the  bulbs  are  planted  in  October, 
six  inches  from  each  other,  and  so  deep  that  the  point 
of  the  bulb  is  two  inches  below  the  surface ;  the  holes 
being  made  with  a  common  dibble,  and  filled  in  Avith  fine 
sand,  in  which  the  bulb  is  to  be  planted. 

The  bulbs  should  be  set  with  reference  to  their  habit ;  the 
tall  growers  in  the  middle,  and  those  of  loAver  groAvth  on 
the  outside.  During  winter,  the  bed  should  be  covered 
with  a  layer  of  coarse  litter  or  tan,  to  protect  the  bulbs 
from  severe  frost.  This  should  be  removed  in  early  spring, 
and  the    surface    of  the  ground  gently   stirred.      As    the 


THE   TULIP.  Ill 

plants  come  into  bloom,  they  should  be  protected  by  an 
awning,  to  preserve  them  longer  in  perfection.  After  the 
flowers  have  faded,  the  awning  should  be  removed,  and 
the  plants  allowed  to  ripen  the  foliage.  When  this  is  done, 
the  bulbs  should  be  taken  up  carefully,  dried,  and  kept  in  a 
dry,  cool  place  until  the  season  for  planting  again  arrives. 
Tulips  will,  however,  grow  in  any  deep,  rich,  light  soil. 
They  are  very  impatient  of  standing  water,  and  do  not  im- 
prove by  being  left  in  the  ground  from  year  to  year : 
indeed,  if  not  annually  taken  up,  they  "  run  out,"  to  use 
the  gardener's  term  ;  that  is,  the  choicer  and  more  delicate 
varieties  die  out,  and  the  stronger  and  coarser  revert  to 
the  old  red  color.  Much  that  is  curious  might  be  written 
upon  the  disappointed  hopes  of  the  raisers  of  seedling  tu- 
lips ;  for  the  chances  of  success  are  very  small,  and  those  of 
failure  very  great.  Seedlings  bloom  in  about  five  years, 
and  tlie  modes  taken  to  make  them  "  break  "  are  very  curi- 
ous. Tulips  are  divided  into  three  classes,  —  bizarres,  by- 
bloemens,  and  roses.  In  the  former,  the  ground-color  is 
yellow  ;  and  in  the  two  latter,  white.  A  chief  point  of  per- 
fection is  the  purity  of  this  ground-color  :  if  at  all  marked 
or  cloudy,  the  flower  is  poor.  Tiic  base  of  the  flower 
inside  sliould  be  clear  ;  that  is,  none  of  the  marking  should 


112  THE  TULIP. 

run  clown  to  the  bottom  of  the  cup.     The  stamens  should 
also  be  white  or  yellow,  according  to  the  class. 

Each  class  is  further  divided,  as  regards  marking,  into 
^'  flamed  and  feathered."  If  the  marking  of  the  flower  is 
confined  to  the  edge  of  the  petals,  it  is  feathered  ;  but,  if  a 
dark  broad  stripe  runs  down  the  centre,  it  is  flamed.  In 
every  case,  the  colors  must  be  well  defined. 


THE     PROPERTIES     OF    A     GOOD     TULIP,    AS    A    FLORIST  S 
FLOWER,    ARE, 

1.  The  cup  should  form,  when  quite  expanded,  from  half 
to  a  third  of  a  hollow  ball.  To  do  this,  the  petals  must  be 
six  in  number,  broad  at  the  ends,  smooth  at  the  edges ;  and 
the  divisions  between  the  petals  must  scarcely  show  an 
indenture. 

2.  The  three  inner  petals  should  set  close  to  the  three 
outer  ones  ;  and  the  Avhole  should  be  broad  enough  to  allow 
of  the  fullest  expansion  without  quartering,  as  it  is  called ; 
that  is,  exhibiting  any  vacancy  between  the  petals. 

3.  The  petals  should  be  thick,  smooth,  and  stiff",  and 
keep  their  form  well. 

4.  The   ground   should   be  clear  and  distinct,  whether 


THE   TULIP.  113 

^vllite  or  yellow.  The  least  stain,  even  at  the  lower 
eud  uf  the  petal,  would  render  a  tulip  comparatively  value- 
less. 

5.  Roses,  bybloemens,  and  bizarres  arc  the  three  classes 
info  which  tulips  are  now  divided.  The  first  have  a  white 
ground,  and  crimson  or  pink  or  scarlet  marks  ;  the  second 
have  white  grounds,  and  purple,  lilac,  or  black  marks  ;  and 
the  last  have  yellow  grounds,  with  any  colored  marks. 

G.  AVhatevcr  be  the  disposition  of  colors,  or  marks,  upon 
a  tulip,  all  the  six  petals  should  be  marked  alike,  and  be, 
therefore,  perfectly  uniform. 

7.  The  feathered  flowers  should  have  an  even,  close 
feathering  all  round  ;  and  Avhether  narrow  or  wide,  light  or 
heavy,  should  reach  far  enough  round  the  petals  to  form, 
when  they  are  expanded,  an  unbroken  edging  all  round. 

8.  If  the  flower  have  any  marking  besides  the  feathering 
at  the  edge,  it  should  be  a  beam,  or  bold  mark  down  the 
centre,  but  not  reaching  the  bottom,  or  near  the  bottom,  of 
the  cup  :  the  mark,  or  beam,  must  be  similar  in  all  the  six 
petals. 

9.  Flowers  not  feathered,  and  with  flame  only,  must 
have  no  marks  on  the  edges  of  the  flowers.  None  of  the 
color  must  break  through  to  the  edge.     The  color  may  be 


114  THE  TULIP. 

disposed  in  any  form,  so  that  it  be  perfectly  uniform  in  all 
the  petals,  and  does  not  go  too  near  the  bottom. 

10.  The  color,  whatever  it  may  be,  must  be  dense  and 
decided.  Whether  it  be  delicate  and  light,  or  bright  or 
dark,  it  must  be  distinct  in  its  outline,  and  not  shaded  or 
flushed  or  broken. 

11.  The  height  should  be  eighteen  to  thirty-six  inches: 
the  former  is  right  for  the  outside  row  in  a  bed,  and  the 
latter  is  right  for  the  highest  row. 

12.  The  purity  of  the  white  and  the  brightness  of  the 
yellow  should  be  permanent ;  that  is  to  say,  should  stand 
until  the  petals  actually  fall. 

While  a  bed  of  choice  tulips  may  be  very  expensive,  a 
fine  show  may  be  made  with  but  a  trifling  outlay.  The 
following  lists  are  given  by  the  best  English  authority,  — 
the  one,  dividing  the  bulbs  into  classes  ;  the  other,  arran- 
ging them  according  to  color. 

Those  mentioned  in  the  following  list  are  not  expensive, 
and  are  of  vigorous  constitution. 

BIZARRES. 

Albion,  Bizarre,  Cato,  Crusader,  Duke  of  Devonshire, 
Duke   of  Sutherland,   Dr.  Horner,  Fabius,  Garrick,  Ibra- 


THE   TULIP.  115 

him  Pacini,  Lord  Raglau,  Marslial  Soult,  Mr.  F.  Peikius, 
Omar  Pacha,  Pilot,  Polyphemus,  Royal  Sovereigu,  Vivid. 

BYBLOEMENS. 

Alexander  Magnus,  Addison,  Bloemast,  Chcllaston  Beau- 
ty, David,  Ivirl  of  Haddington,  General  Bamoselde,  George 
Glenny,  Grace  Darling,  Lord  Dcuman,  Maid  of  Orleans, 
Queen  of  Violets,  Triomphe  de  Lisle,  Victoria  Regina. 

ROSES. 

Aglaia,  Baron  Gesdoff,  Countess  of  Wilton,  Camisc  de 
Croix,  Claudiana,  Duchess  of  Kent,  La  Belle  Nannette, 
Lady  Stanley,  Madame  Vestris,  Naomi,  Undiue,  Ponceau  de 
tres  blanc,  Triomphe  Royal. 

Many  of  the  self  or  one-colored  tulips  are  very  showy  in 
masses  ;  and  the  double  varieties,  if  of  good  color,  are  very 
effective.  The  parrot-tulips  are  hybrids  between  T.  cornuta 
and  T.  sylvestris^'and  are  well  worthy  a  place  in  the  garden. 

The  charming  early  Due  Van  Thol,  both  in  the  single  and 
double  state,  is  an  indispensable  ornament  of  the  early 
spring-border. 


116  THE   TULIP. 

Some  of  the  smaller  early  tulips  force  well  in  sand  and 
earth,  requiring  the  treatment  already  prescribed  for  narcis- 
sus and  hyacinths.  We  have  in  our  garden  a  charming 
little  tulip  of  a  vivid  yellow,  deliciously  fragrant,  and  pro- 
ducing two  or  three  flowers  on  a  stem,  which  we  received 
from  Holland  a  few  years  since  under  the  name  of  T. 
fragrans.  It  is  perfectly  hardy,  flowers  freely,  and  remains 
long  in  perfection. 

The  following  list  will  be  found  useful  to  those  who  plant 
tulips  for  general  effect  of  color  :  — 

YELLOW. 

Canary  Bird,  —  Rich  pure  yellow  ;  nine  inches  high. 
Pottehakker  Yelloiv.  —  Yellow  self ;  nine  to  twelve  inches. 
Dug  Van  Thol.  —  Yellow,  early,  and  dwarf;   four  to  six 
inches. 

Yellow  Prince.  —  A  good  yellow  ;  nine  inches. 
Thomas  Moore.  —  Orange,  distinct ;  nine  inches. 

WHITES. 

PottehaJcJcer. — White,  very  fine  ;  nine  to  twelve  inches. 
Luna,  —  A  fine  variety. 


THE   TULIP.  117 

Queen  Victoria.  —  Small,  fine  form,  white  and  crimson  ; 
niue  inches. 

Jagt  Van  Delft.  — ^TVhite  self,  fine  form  ;  nine  inches. 
La  Laitere.  — White,  with  wiiter-bliie  tint ;  nine  inches. 

SCARLET. 

Tijplion.  —  Crimson-scarlet,  fine  ;   niue  inches. 

Due  Van  Thol.  —  Scarlet ;  six  inches. 

Cramoisi  fidele.  —  Intense  scarlet. 

Couleur  Cramoisie.  —  Crimson-scarlet. 

Vermilion  hrillant.  —  The  best  scarlet ;  six  to  nine 
inches. 

Xa  Belle  Alliance.  —  Rich  crimson-scarlet ;  six  to  nine 
inches. 

BLUE    SHADES. 

Florida.  —  Purplish  violet ;  nine  inches. 
Berangaria.  —  Purple,  with  a  little  mauve. 
Archas.  —  Violet-purple,  lilac  belt. 

Caiman.  — Violet  or  puce,  lilac  margin. 
La  Plaisante. — Violet,  slight  rosy  tint. 

Wouverman.  — Violet-purple. 


118  THE    TULIP. 

FEATHERED,    STRIPED,    AND    TINTED. 

Due  Van  Tliol.  —  Red,  orange  border,  early;  four  to  six 
inches. 

Keizerkroon.  —  Yellow  ground,  flaked  with  vivid  scarlet. 

Standard  Royal.  —  White  ground,  flaked  with  carmine. 

Alida  3£arie.  —  "White  tipped,  and  flaked  with  cerise; 
very  fine. 

Bride  of  Haarlem. — White,  bordered  with  crimson. 

Bosa  Ilimdi.  — White-shaded  rose. 

JRose  Luisante.  — Rosy  crimson,  peach  edges. 

Due  Major.  —  Rich  red,  margin  orange-yellow. 

Bose  Tendre.  — White  feathered,  and  striped  with  crimson. 

Boi  Pepin.  —  White  striped,  and  flaked  with  crimson. 

Ma  Plus  Aimahle.  —  Bronzy  red,  flaked  with  orange. 

Standard  of  Gold.  —  Yellow,  crimson  tip. 

DOUBLE    TULIPS. 

Tournesol.  —  Scarlet  and  yellow. 
Yellow  Bose. — Yellow. 
La  Candeur. — The  best  white. 
Bex  Buhrorum.  —  Crimson-scarlet. 


THE    TULIP.  119 

Imperafor  Buhrorum.  —  Crimson-scarlet. 
Feonij  Gold.  —  Golden-yellow,  fealhered  with  crimson. 
Couronne  Pourpre.  —  Rich  crimson. 
Mariage  de  ma  Fille.  —  White-striped,  violet-rose. 
Overwinner.  —  White,  barred  and  feathered,  with  violet- 
pnrple. 

Gloria  Solis.  —  Crimson,  yellow  border. 
Dae  Van  Thai.  —  Red  and  yellow. 

Among  the  species  of  tulips  we  may  enumerate 

T.  hiflora.  —  The  smallest  of  the  genus,  with  Avhite  flowers 
and  yellow  centre  ;  a  native  of  Russia,  and  perfectly  hardy. 

T.  tricolor.  —  A  fine  species,  with  white  flowers,  tinged 
with  green  and  yellow.     Native  of  the  Altai  Mountains. 

T.  Celsiana. — A  handsome  species,  with  yellow  flowers. 
Native  of  Siberia. 

T.  sijluestris.  —  A  common  yellow  species,  with  drooping, 
fragrant  flowers.     A  native  of  France. 

T.  oculis  solis,  —  A  fine  species,  nearly  allied  to  T.  Ges- 
neriana.,  but  easily  distinguished  by  the  black  centre.  A 
native  of  Italy  and  France. 

T.  suavolens.  —  This  is  the  well-known  Due  Van  Thol 
tulip,  so  pretty  and   fragrant   in   early  spring.     Tliere   are 


120  THE   IRIS. 

many  varieties,  all  ornamental  in  the  bulb-border.  These 
tulips  are  better  adapted  for  forcing  than  any  other  species. 
T.  cornuta.  —  This  is  a  very  hardy  species,  more  curious 
than  beautiful.  A  native  of  the  Levant,  and  only  requir- 
ing to  be  planted  in  the  border,  where  it  will  care  for  itself. 

THE    IRIS. 

All  the  plants  of  this  family  .are  ornamental  in  floAver, 
and  of  very  easy  culture.  They  are  divided  into  two  classes, 
—  those  with  bulbous  and  those  with  tuberous  roots.  The 
latter  will  thrive  in  any  common  garden-soil,  and  only  need 
the  usual  treatment  given  hardy,  herbaceous  plants  ;  that ' 
is,  slight  annual  manuring  when  the  border  is  dug  in  the 
spring,  occasional  resetting  when  the  clumps  grow  out  of 
the  ground,  and  division  when  the  clumps  become  too 
large.  The  former  are  generally  hardy,  and  should  be 
planted  in  October,  in  a  light,  rich  soil,  and  protected  by 
litter  thrown  over  the  bed  in  the  winter.  The  bulbs  should 
be  set  about  three  inches  deep,  and,  every  third  year,  should 
be  taken  up,  and  replanted  ;  as,  the  new  bulb  forming  under 
the  old,  the  bulbs  grow  down,  bury  themselves,  and  are 
lost.     They  may  be  transplanted  as   soon    as  the    foliage 


THE   IRIS.  121 

decays,    and    are    freely    propagated    by    seeds    and    by 
offsets. 

The  following  is  a  select  list  of  the  tuberous  varieties, 
mostly  hybrids  from  I.  Germanica,  which  may  prove  valu- 
able in  making  a  selection,  as  the  number  of  varieties  now 
in  florists'  catalogues  sadly  puzzle  the  amateur  :  — 

Nuncio. — Bright  yellow,  and  reddish  purple. 

Archento.  —  Bright  yellow,  and  black. 

Gysels.  —  Blue  and  white,  mottled. 

Ariadne. — Purple  and  white. 

Ahasueriis.  —  Light  and  dark  purple. 

Gonzales.  —  Straw,  purple,  and  white. 

Proserpine.  —  Yellow  and  chocolate. 

Beticulata.  —  White  and  purple. 

Azurea.  —  Clear  blue. 

Beticulata  superha. — White,  purple  stripes. 

Adonis.  —  Straw,  purple,  and  white. 

Nationale.  —  Deep  purple. 

Aurea  reticulata. — Yellow,  purple,  and  chocolate. 

Ducliesse  de  Nemours.  —  Purple  and  pearl-color. 

Aniinous.  —  Yellow  and  purple. 

SpecialiUs.  —  Yellow  and  brownish  purple. 


122  THE  IRIS. 

Salimon. — Yellow,  buff,  and  imperial  purple. 
Aiirea.  — Light  yellow. 
Julia  Grisi. — Purple  aud  pearl. 
Louis  Van  Houtte,  —  Deep  purple. 
Speciosa.  —  Deep  purple. 
Bougerie.  —  Purple. 
Psyche.  —  Purple  and  white. 
Chloris.  —  Mottled,  purple  and  white. 
Arlequin  melanais.  —  Purple  and  white. 
Cornelie.  —  Purple  and  straw-color. 
Hams.  —  Purple,  and  brownish  white. 
Album.  —  White,  purple,  and  brown. 
Miirito.  —  Straw-color  and  white. 
Alvarez.  —  Straw-color  and  purple. 
Van  Geertii.  —  Purple  and  brown. 
La  Tendre.  —  Yellow,  brownish  purple. 
Vidorie.  —  Lemon-color. 
Morpheus.  —  Purple  and  white,  veined. 
Agatha,  —  Dark  purple. 
Celestina.  —  Blue. 
Ignacita.  —  Purple  and  white. 
Reticulata  alba.  —  White,  blue-veined. 
Fleur  de  Marie.  —  Purple  and  white. 


THE   IRIS.  123 

Calypso.  —  Purple,  white,  and  blue. 
AiKjustissinia.  —  Orange  and  brown. 
Apollo.  —  Deep  purple  and  white. 

A  collection  of  these  tuberous  species  is,  in  the  latter  part 
of  June,  one  of  the  most  effective  sights  in  a  garden.  They  do 
well,  either  in  small  clumps  or  in  masses  ;  and,  when  the 
colors  are  well  combined,  the  effect  of  large  beds  is  very  fine. 
Seed  is  freely  produced,  and  is  sown  to  raise  new  varie- 
ties. The  older  sorts  are  propagated  by  division  of  the 
roots  in  early  spring,  or  when  they  have  made  their  growth 
in  July. 

In  addition  to  the  varieties  above  mentioned,  there  are 
hundreds  of  others  of  the  same  class,  flowering  from  the 
first  of  June  until  the  last  of  July,  in  some  of  the  many 
varieties. 

There  is  also  a  class  of  spring-blooming  species,  all 
of  dwarf  growth,  and  admirably  suited  for  the  edging  of 
spring-borders.  The  colors  of  most  of  these  arc  light  or 
dark  blue  :  the  species  all  bloom  freely,  and  are  very  hardy, 
enduring  ill  treatment  and  careless  planting,  and  flourishing 
and  blooming  in  every  soil  and  situation.  They  seldom 
ripen  seed,  but  propagate  very  freely  by  division  of  the 
roots.     Indeed,  the  clumps  often  increase  so  fast  as  to  rcn- 


124  THE   IRIS. 

der  division  necessary  every  two  years.  The  foliage  is 
good,  and  remains  green  until  autumn,  though  all  the 
growth  is  made  in  early  spring.  Among  these  early-bloom- 
ing species  we  may  mention 

I.  'cristata.  —  Flowers  pale  blue  in  May ;  three  inches 
high. 

J.  pumila.  —  Flowers  dark  blue  or  white  ;  three  inches 
high. 

I.  lutescens.  —  Flowers  yellowish  white  ;  six  inches  high. 

We  have  in  our  garden  a  most  beautiful  variety  of  /. 
pumila^  which  blooms  rather  later  than  the  species,  and 
has  dark-purple  flowers,  with  a  rich  velvety  lustre,  with 
shadings  of  orange-yellow. 

The  species  of  bulbous  iris  most  commonly  grown  are 

I.  Xij)hium.  —  This  species,  commonly  called  the  Spanish 
iris,  and  often  found  in  the  shops  under  the  name  of  Iris 
Hispanica^  is  perfectly  hardy  in  our  gardens.  The  flowers 
are  very  handsome,  and  of  various  colors,  fragrant,  and 
freely  produced.  This  species  propagates  itself  readily  by 
oflTsets :  it  also  ripens  seed  in  abundance,  and  hybridizes 
freely  with  the  English  iris.  Indeed,  the  florists'  catalogues 
give  us  hundreds  of  hybrid  seedlings,  which  are  indiscrimi- 
nately called  English  or  Spanish  iris. 


THE    IRIS.  125 

I.  Xiphiodes.  —  Tlic  bulbs  of  this  species  much  resemble 
the  last  ;  but  they  are  larjier  and  rounder.  The  flower  is 
large,  and  very  handsome.  The  plant  is  of  stout  habit. 
Although  called  the  English  iris,  and  sold  under  the  name 
of  Iris  Angelica,  the  plant  is  a  native  of  the  Pyrenees  ;  but 
it  has  been  in  cultivation  from  a  very  early  period.  It 
propagates  very  slowly  from  oUsets,  but  produces  seed 
freely  ;  and  thus  the  varieties  are  very  numerous.  The 
species  and  all  varieties  are  perfectly  liardy. 

/.  Lusitanica.  —  This  fine  species  is  somewhat  rare,  and 
less  hardy  than  the  two  last  mentioned.  The  flowers  are 
yellow,  buff,  and  purple,  and  very  handsome.  The  culture 
is  simple,  and  similar  to  the  last :  only  a  slight  winter  pro- 
tection should  be  given. 

/.  Persica.  —  This  is  a  little  gem  of  a  flower,  perfectly 
hardy,  and  coming  into  bloom  with  the  early  crocus. 
We  can  hardly  describe  in  words  its  delicate  and  yet 
striking  beauty,  nor  do  justice  to  the  pleasing  contrasts 
of  color  which  it  exhibits.  The  plant  is  a  native  of 
Persia,  and  yet  endures  our  severest  winters  without 
protection. 

I.  tuherosa.  —  The  snake's-head  iris  is  a  fine  species, 
with  rich,  velvety  flowers.     It  is  a  native  of  the  Levant,  but 


126  THE  i^^' 

will  generally  endure  our  winters.  The  flowers  are  pro- 
duced in  May. 

I.  Susiana.  —  This  species,  like  the  last,  has  roots  rather 
tuberous  than  bulbous.  The  flowers  are  magnificent,  and, 
under  careful  culture,  freely  produced.  In  the  greenhouse, 
it  blooms  well ;  and  it  is  hardy  enough  to  survive  our 
winters,  but  must  be  taken  up  as  soon  as  the  foliage  de- 
cays, as,  if  left  in  the  ground,  it  makes  a  very  early  autumn 
growth,  which  is  killed  by  the  winter,  and  the  bulb  perishes. 
The  soil  for  this  species  should  be  rather  sandy. 

Besides  these,  there  are  some  fifty  species  of  iris  ;  and  we 
know  of  no  family  of  which  all  the  species  are  so  ornamen- 
tal.* The  only  culture  the  iris  requires  in  the  garden  is  to 
plant  it  like  a  tulip,  and,  after  the  leaves  die,  to  take  it  np, 
as  most  of  the  bulbous  species  slowly  sink  into  the  ground 
by  the  production  of  new  bulbs,  bury  themselves,  and 
are  lost.  This  is  not,  however,  the  case  with  I.  Susiana 
and  the  tuberous  species.  Most  of  the  species  may  be 
successfully  forced,  as  prescribed  for  hyacinths,  either  in 
earth  or  water. 

The  following  are  the  characteristics  of  a  good  iris  :  — 

This  flower  is  composed  of  three  principal  and  three 
secondary  petals,  or  divisions.  The  three  principal  fall 
*  See  "  Garden  Flowers." 


THE   IRIS.  127 

down,  uud  the  others  stand  up.  A  gUiace  at  many  of  the 
families  will  soon  decide  a  very  important  property  in  some, 
and  deficiency  in  others, — tlie  breadth  of  the  three  prin- 
cipal petals.  It  will  occur  to  the  untaught  child,  that  the 
flower  which  presents  the  largest  portion  of  rich  surface  is 
the  best.  All  who  have  grown  the  common  iris  know  it  has 
narrow,  mean-looking  petals  :  but  the  kind  which  has  been 
propagated  in  Eughuid  has  a  broad,  rich-looking  petal ;  and 
upon  this  feature  does  the  beauty  of  the  iris  turn. 

The  three  principal  divisions,  or  petals,  should  be  broad 
enough  to  touch  each  other,  and  form  an  arch  or  graceful 
curve,  but  described  as  one-third  of  a  hollow  ball  or 
reversed  cup,  level  at  the  lower  edge  by  reason  of  the 
bluntness  of  the  three  petals  at  the  outer  end,  which  should 
form  a  circular  outline  on  looking  down  upon  them.  The 
three  smaller  petals  should  stand  up,  and  be  perfectly  clear 
of  the  three  that  fall  down. 

The  three  lower  petals  should  be  of  a  rich  velvety  tex- 
ture, and  be  thick,  smooth  on  the  edges,  firm  in  their  places  ; 
and  whether  self-colored,  striped,  mottled,  shaded,  or  spot- 
ted, the  color  should  be  well  defined. 

The  three  upper  ones  should  be  of  a  diflTerent  color,  and 
of  a  smooth  or  enamel    kind    of  texture  :  the  greater  the 


128  THE   MOREA. 

coutrast  of  color,  the  better.  The  iris  is  a  dwarf-plaut ;  and 
though  three  petals  fall  down  and  three  stand  up,  and  the 
fall  of  the  broad  petals  is  too  sudden,  and,  on  looking  down 
on  them,  they  hardly  form  any  recognizable  outline,  it  is 
capable  of  being  produced  with  a  fall  not  so  sudden,  and  a 
curve  perfectly  graceful ;  and  the  great  advantage  of  this 
will  be,  that  the  entire  surface  may  be  seen  at  once,  instead 
of  a  portion  only.        i 

The  flowers  should  open  but  one  at  a  time,  that  the 
beauty  of  the  plant  may  be  prolonged.  The  flower  should 
be  eighteen  inches  from  the  ground,  and,  when  full  grown 
and  expanded,  be  four  inches  across. 

THE     MOREA. 

This  family  was  separated  from  Iris  on  account  of  the 
nature  of  the  bulb,  which  much  resembles  a  corm.  The 
flowers  are  very  brilliant,  but  fugitive.  The  family  is  not 
hardy  ;  but  many  of  the  species  do  well  in  pots.  The  soil 
should  be  a  sandy  loam,  and  the  plants  require  frequent 
syringings  to  keep  them  free  from  red  spider.  They  are 
mostly  natives  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  ;  and  flower  from 
April  to  July,  according  to  the  species.     The  bulbs  do  not 


THE  HERBERTTA.  —  THE  CYPELLA.       129 

buiy  themselves  like  au  iris,  but  produce  the  new  bnlb  on 
the  top  of  the  old,  like  a  crocus :  so  they  may  be  planted 
deeper  than  iris. 

M.  sisijrinchium  is  a  native  of  Spain,  and  might  prove 
hardy :  the  flower  is  very  handsome,  deep  blue,  white,  and 
yellow. 

Loudon  enumerates  some  twenty-five  species,  some  of 
which  arc  very  handsome. 

Some  of  the  finest  species  are  31.  sisijrinchium,  M.  Teno- 
reana,  white-and-blue  flowers  ;  31.  ciliata,  yellow  flowers  ; 
31.  harhigera,  crimson  and  yellow ;  31.  lurida,  dark  red  ; 
3f.  edulis,  lilac  ;  3L  angusta,  white  and  purple. 

THE    HEKBERTIA. 

This  beautiful  and  rare  bulb  is  a  native  of  South  America, 
near  the  Straits  of  Magellan.  It  should  be  grown  in  pots, 
in  a  compost  of  loam,  peat,  and  sand.  The  flowers  some- 
what resemble  an  iris,  and  are  blue,  white,  and  pink.  The 
chief  species  is  H.  pulchella.    H.  jjusiUa  has  striped  flowers. 

THE    CYPELLA. 

A  very  remarkably  handsome  bulb,  of  easy  growth  in 
the  greenhouse.  The  flowers  are  yellow,  with  a  dark  stripe 
down  each  petal. 


130  THE    PHALOCALLIS.  —  THE   VIEUSSEUXIA. 

Our  plants  thrived  well,  planted  in  sandy  loam,  when  im- 
ported in  autumn  ;  and  bloomed  freely  in  spring,  each  bulb 
giving  many  flowers.     The  species  is  G.  Herhertii. 

THE    PHALOCALLIS, 

Another  species  of  Cypella,  often  appears  in  nurserymen's 
catalogues  as  C.  plumhea,  which  should  be  P.  plumhea.  It 
is  a  beautiful  plant,  with  evergreen  leaves,  and  fugitive  lead- 
color  and  yellow  flowers,  of  which  but  one  is  produced  from 
the  bulb  ;  the  individual  flowers,  with  every  care,  lasting 
hardly  a  day.  We  have  bloomed  this  plant  most  success- 
fully in  a  compost  of  loam  and  sand.  It  usually  blooms  in 
midsummer.  The  plant  is  a  native  of  Mexico,  and  not 
very  common. 

THE   VIEUSSEUXIA. 

These  plants  were  formerly  classed  as  Iris,  and  are 
usually  known  as  Peacock  Iris. 

They  are  all  Cape  bulbs,  with  slender,  iridaceous  foliage, 
and  very  brilliant  flowers. 

They  should  be  potted  in  peat-loam  and  sand,  about  an 
inch  deep,  in  autumn,  and  grown  in  an  airy  situation,  with 


THE  VIEUSSEUXIA. 


131 


frequent  syriugings  to  prevent  the  attacks  of  the  red  spider. 
The  flowers  will  appear  in  spring  and  summer.  After  bloom- 
ing, the  bulbs  should  be  gradually  ripened,  and  then  kept 
dry  till  the  season  for  replanting  arrives. 

The  most  common  species  is  V.  glaiicopis,  having  bril- 
liant white-and-blue  flowers.  There  are  also  species  with 
yellow,  red,  and  purple  flowers  ;  but  they  are  by  no  means 
common. 

The  flowers  of  all  the  species  are  produced  singly,  and 
are  very  transient. 


IX. 


THE  RANUNCULUS  AND  ANEMONE. 


L THOUGH   florists'   flowers,  of 
which  the   subjects  of  our  pres- 
ent chapter   are   familiar    exam- 
ples, are  seldom  grown  to  perfec- 
tion in  this  country,  yet  they  must  receive  a  passing  word. 

This  neglect  is  especially  noticeable  in  regard  to  both  the 
ranunculus  and  anemone,  as  they  can  only  be  grown  with 
frame  protection  in  New  England,  and  are  not  hardy  enough 
to  stand  the  winter  unprotected. 

We  have  many  species  of  both  of  these  plants,  which  are 
well  known,  and  valuable  ornaments  of  our  gardens,  woods, 
and  fields  :  but  the  subject  of  the  present  volume  confines  us 
to  the  consideration  of  the  tuberous  Ranunculus  Asiaticus 
and  its  varieties,  a,ud  Anemone  coronaria  and  ^.  hortensis; 

132 


THE  RANUNCULUS.  133 

these  being  the  species  from  which  the  many  varieties  of 
garden  ranunculus  and  anemone  have  been  derived. 

THE   RANUNCULUS. 

It  has  always  been  a  question  with  florists  as  to  what  soil 
is  best  suited  to  this  plant.  While  any  good,  light  soil  will 
bloom  the  ranunculus,  care  in  the  preparation  of  a  suitable 
bed  is  rewarded  by  increased  size  and  beauty  of  flower, 
both  ill  form,  color,  and  substance. 

A  compost  which  is  sure  to  grow  them  well  may  be  thus 
prepared  :  Cut  from  a  good  loamy  pasture  the  surface  sods, 
three  inches  thick:  let  these  be  piled  one  on  another  in 
ridges  for  a  year,  and  then  sliced  down  with  a  sharp  spade 
to  form  a  crumbly  mass.  Turn  this  over  carefully,  and 
pick  out  all  wire-worms,  grubs,  and  insects.  Then  pile  it  all 
into  a  heap  again,  and  let  it  remain  another  year  ;  by  which 
time,  all  the  grass  and  herbage  will  have  resolved  itself  into 
vegetable  mould.  At  the  end  of  the  second  year,  turn  it 
over  again,  and  again  pick  out  any  worms  or  grubs  as 
before.  In  a  soil  of  this  nature  which  is  now  ready  for 
use,  the  ranunculus  will  grow  well. 

The  ranunculus  likes  a  stiffer  soil  than  the  anemone,  and 
is  very  impatient  of  drought. 


134  THE   RANUNCULUS. 

Many  florists  use  stimulating  manures ;  but  their  effect  is 
bad  on  the  tubers,  causing  rotting  and  disease,  though  often 
the  size  of  the  flower  is  increased. 

In  forming  beds,  it  is  frequently  the  practice  to  place  a 
layer  of  well-rotted  cow-dung  about  nine  inches  below  the 
surface,  which  operates  in  the  twofold  service  of  retaining 
moistur  eand  supplying  nourishment. 

The  compost  given  above  will,  however,  grow  the  tubers 
well,  and  give  satisfactory  bloom,  without  any  manure. 
The  bed  should  be  dug  out  about  a  foot  deep,  and  filled  in 
with  the  compost,  and  the  tubers  be  planted  two  inches 
deep  in  November,  the  earth  being  pressed  close  around 
them.  On  the  approach  of  very  frosty  weather,  the  bed 
should  be  covered  with  a  frame  filled  with  oak-leaves,  and 
this  again  with  boards,  to  exclude  the  frost.  Early  in  the 
spring,  remove  the  frame,  and  the  plants  will  soon  appear. 
Keep  them  clear  of  weeds,  and  fork  the  earth  loosely  around 
them,  watering  them  thoroughly  if  there  should  be  a  season 
of  drought.  As  they  come  into  bloom,  and  begin  to  color, 
shade  them  from  the  sun  by  an  awning.  When  the  flowers 
have  faded,  and  the  foliage  turned  yellow,  take  up  the  tubers, 
and  keep  them  in  a  cool  place  until  the  return  of  the  plant- 
ins:  season. 


THE    RANUNCULUS.  135 

The  roots  may  be  kejDt  over  the  winter,  and  planted  in  the 
spring,  as  they  arc  possessed  of  great  vitality  ;  but  they  often 
become  too  dry,  and  more  frequently  mould. 

No  plant  is  more  easily  increased  by  seed,  which  may  be 
sown  in  February  in  light  soil,  in  boxes,  in  the  greenhouse, 
where  it  wdll  vegetate  freely  in  about  a  month  ;  but  none  of 
the  seedlings  will  be  like  the  parent  plant  or  like  each 
other.  The  young  tubers  should  be  ripened  off  in  July  ;  and, 
treated  like  old  plants,  Avill  flower  the  next  June. 

The  properties  of  a  good  ranunculus,  as  laid  down  by  the 
best  authorhies,  are,  —  the  stem  should  be  upright,  eight  to 
twel^re  inches  high,  and  strong  enough  to  support  the  flower. 
The  form  of  the  flower  should  be  hemispherical,  not  less 
than  two  inches  in  diameter,  consisting  of  numerous  petals, 
gradually  diminishing  in  size  to  the  centre,  lying  over  each 
other  so  as  neither  to  be  too  close  nor  too  much  separated, 
but  liaviug  more  of  a  perpendicular  than  horizontal  direc- 
tion, in  order  to  display  the  colors  with  better  effect.  The 
petals  should  be  broad,  with  entire,  well-rounded  edges  ;  the 
colors  dark,  clear,  rich,  or  brilliant,  either  of  one  color,  or 
variously  diversified  on  a  ground  of  cinerous  white,  prim- 
rose-yellow, or  flame-color,  or  diversified  with  elegant 
stripes,  spots,  or  mottling. 


136  THE   RANUNCULUS. 

The  ranunculus  may  be  forced  by  selecting  tubers  which 
have  been  kept  several  months  over  the  season  of  planting, 
as  these  are  more  readily  excited.  Plant  these  in  pots 
about  the  first  of  August ;  grow  them  in  a  cold  frame  with 
plenty  of  air,  light,  and  water  ;  and,  by  bringing  them  into  the 
greenhouse  at  different  times,  a  bloom  may  be  kept  up  from 
October  to  February. 

This  plant  will  well  repay  careful  culture,  and  does  not 
merit  the  neglect  with  which  it  has  been  treated  in  this 
country. 

As  we  have  said,  there  are  many  hundred  varieties :  of 
these,  the  following  are  good :  — 

Aigle  noir.  —  Black. 

Cqmmodore  Napier.  —  Yellow. 

Cramoisi  a  coeur  vert. 

Hortense. 

Jaune  -panacliee, 

Noir  jpourpre.  —  Black. 

Hercules.  —  White. 

Merveilleuse.  —  Yellow. 

Scarlet  Roman. 

A  collection  of  a  hundred  varieties  ordered  from  any 
Dutch  florist  would  probably  contain  many  very  fine  kinds. 


THE   ANEMONE.  137 


THE    ANEMONE. 


The  tubers  should  be  planted  late  in  October,  in  a  bed 
prepared  by  removing  the  old  soil  to  the  depth  of  sixteen  or 
eighteen  inches.  If  the  situation  is  cold  and  wet,  drain  it 
well,  and  do  not  go  so  deep  ;  if  dry  and  warm,  the  bed  may 
be  made  deeper.  Fill  in  four  to  six  inches  of  cow-drop- 
pings, such  as  may  be  gathered  in  the  pastures..  Upon  this, 
place  as  much  good  fresh  earth  as  will  rai.se  the  beds  to 
their  former  level,  or  a  little  higher,  to  allow  for  settling. 
On  the  approach  of  very  frosty  weather,  cover  with  a 
frame,  and  exclude  the  frost.  In  fine,  the  treatment  is 
exactly  that  prescribed  for  the  ranunculus. 

Any  common,  moderately  light  soil  suits  the  anemone  :  a 
wet,  stiff  soil  rots  the  roots  in  winter. 

If  necessary  to  make  a  soil,  take  maiden-loam  from  the 
surface  of  a  pasture,  turf  and  all :  to  every  load  of  tliis 
add  one  of  cow-dung,  and  half  a  load  of  clean,  sharp,  fresh 
sand.  Form  this  into  a  ridge,  and  let  it  remain  a  year  ; 
turning  it,  and  picking  out  insects,  every  two  months.  A 
very  good  soil  may  be  made  of  two  parts  garden-loam,  one 
part  well-rotted  cow-dung,  and  one-half  part  sharp  sand. 

The  anemone  is  somewhat  more  hardy  than  the   ranun- 


138  THE  ANEMONE. 

cuius  ;  but  the  roots  will  not  bear  being  long  kept  out  of  the 
ground. 

They  are  easily  forced,  and  may  be  had  in  bloom  any 
month  in  the  year  by  a  series  of  plantings. 

Both  the  ranunculus  and  anemone  are  propagated,  to  pre- 
serve varieties,  by  division ;  to  produce  new  varieties,  by 
seed. 

Every  pai't  of  the  crown,  or  root,  which  has  a  bud,  will 
make  a  plant ;  but  it  is  not  well  to  divide  anemones  too 
much,  as  they  flower  very  weak  if  too  small.  The  usual 
colors  of  anemones  are  red,  white,  and  blue  ;  and  the  flow- 
ers are  single,  semi-double,  and  double. 

The  raising  of  seedlings  may  be  done  as  prescribed  for 
ranunculus,  the  seed  being  saved  from  the  best  single  and 
semi-double  flowers. 

The  properties  of  a  good  single  anemone  are,  — 

The  stem  strong,  elastic,  and  erect,  not  less  than  nine 
inches  high  ;  the  flower  at  least  two  inches  and  a  half  in 
diameter,  consisting  of  large,  substantial,  well-rounded 
petals,  at  first  horizontally  extended,  and  then  turning  a 
little  upwards,  so  as  to  form  a  broad,  shallow  cup  ;  the  color 
clear  and  distinct  when  variegated  in  the  same  flower,  or 
brilliant  and  strikinoj  if  it  consists  of  but  one  color. 


THE  ANEMONE, 


130 


A  double  anemone  should  have  the  outer  petals  quite 
flat,  the  second  series  a  little  shorter,  the  third  shorter  still ; 
and  so  on  till  the  centre  is  quite  full,  when  the  whole 
should  form  a  rather  flat  hemisphere.  Every  double  flower 
should  be  of  one  full  color. 


Of  anemones,  there  are  about  twenty  species  with  tuber- 
ous roots,  and  some  forty  herbaceous  species.  Many  of 
these  are  very  fine:  among  which  we  may  mention  the 
pretty  wood-anemone  (.4.  nemorosa)  and  the  double  variety ; 
A.  Appenina,  with  blue  flowers  ;  A.  narcissiflora  ;  A.  Japon^ 


140  THE  ANEMONE. 

ica,  and  the  white  variety ;    A.  2?usatilla,  the  well-known 
Pasqiie  flower  ;  and  A,  vernalis. 

Of  the  varieties  of  A.  coronaria  and  hortensis,  the  follow- 
ing are  good :  — 
Shaksjoeare,  blue. 
Azur  incomparahle^'h\\ie. 
Cramoisi  royal^  scarlet. 
Feu  superhe,  scarlet. 
Grandeur  llerveille,  rose  and  white, 
Sigh  Admiral,  scarlet. 
Josephine,  scarlet. 
Ornement  de  la  Nature,  blue,  fine. 
L'Eclair,  scarlet. 

Queen  of  the  Netherlands,  white  and  rose. 
Bose  surpassante,  bright  rose. 
Salvator,  orange. 


X. 


THE    OXALIS,    IXIA,     BABIANA,   SPARAXIS,   TRITONIA, 
GEISSORHIZA. 


IIILE  many  of  the  bulbs 
of  ^vllicll  wc  have  hithero 
spoken  are  suitable  for 
garden -culture,  the  sub- 
jects of  our  present  chapter  thrive  only  in  the  greenhouse. 
In  England,  however,  they  are  planted  in  the  open  border, 
and  survive  in  sheltered  situations  with  little  protection. 
But  the  flowers  of  all  are  very  delicate,  and  liable  to  be 
injured  by  storms  or  changeable  weather  :  therefore  they  are 
seen  to  much  better  advantage  under  glass,  where,  if  well 
cared  for,  they  make  a  splendid  display.  The  culture  of  all 
the  species  mentioned  in  this  chapter  is  the  same.  All 
bloom  in  early  spring ;  though  many  of  the  oxalis  may  be 

141 


142  THE   OXALIS. 

had  in  flower  at  any  season  by  forcing,  and  some  few- 
species  naturally  bloom  in  summer  or  early  autumn. 

In  potting  these  bulbs,  and  starting  them  into  growth, 
one  of  the  primary  rules  of  bulb-culture  must  be  observed ; 
that  is,  when  the  base  of  the  bulb  swells,  or  young  roots 
begin  to  protrude,  the  bulb  should  be  potted  and  watered. 
With  a  family  so  large  as  the  oxalis,  it  is  impossible  to 
prescribe  any  general  rule  for  potting  ;  though  most  of  the 
species  cultivated  in  our  greenhouses  require  only  the  ordi- 
nary treatment  of  Cape  bulbs,  and,  with  the  other  subjects 
of  this  chapter,  —  ixias,  babianas,  tritonias,  and  other 
Cape  bulbs  of  like  nature,  —  need  only  to  be  potted  in  Octo- 
ber, in  rich,  light,  sandy  loam,  in  well-drained  pots.  After 
potting,  the  bulbs  should  have  a  gentle  watering,  and  be  kept 
in  a  cool,  shady,  airy  place  until  they  begin  to  grow :  they 
should  then  be  removed  to  a  light,  airy  shelf,  and  be  grown 
near  the  glass  all  winter,  in  full  sunshine,  to  perfect  a  short, 
sturdy  growth.  Water  should  be  freely  supplied  with  the 
syringe  to  destroy  red  spider,  with  whom  many  of  these 
plants  are  especial  favorites.  As  soon  as  the  flower-stem 
appears,  a  few  waterings  of  weak  liquid  manure  will  be 
found  beneficial. 

When  the  blossoms  begin  to  expand,  the   pots   may  be 


THE   OXALIS.  143 

removed  to  a  less  sunny  and  cooler  situation,  that  the 
flowers  may  longer  remain  in  perfection.  Many  species 
will  need  to  have  the  flower-stems,  and  often  the  foliage, 
tied  up  to  neat  stakes,  in  order  better  to  display  the  full 
beauty  of  the  blossom.  When  the  bloom  is  over,  the  foliage 
should  be  gradually  ripened  ;  and,  when  half  the  leaf  has 
turned  yellow,  the  pots  sliould  be  turned  on  their  sides,  and 
the  ])ulbs  allowed  to  remain  dry  until  the  season  for  replant- 
ing. Mice  are  very  fond  of  some  of  these  bulbs,  and  care 
must  be  taken  to  put  them  to  rest  in  a  place  not  disturbed 
by  their  ravages. 

THE    OXALIS. 

This  family  is  very  numerous  ;  about  one  hundred  species 
being  enumerated.  The  mode  of  growth  is  very  different, 
some  being  true  bulbs,  and  thus  coming  immediately  within 
the  scope  of  our  volume  ;  while  others  have  tuberous,  or  rath- 
er thickened,  fleshy  roots,  and  are  thus  only  mentioned  here 
on  the  score  of  relationship.  Many  have  a  true  stem,  and 
produce  the  tuft  of  leaves  and  flowers  from  the  top  ;  and 
this  stem  may  be  either  above  ground,  or  subterranean. 
Some  species  seem  to  combine  the  bulbous  and  tuberous 
nature,  the  subterranean  stem  producing  little  bulbs  at  the 


144  THE   OXALIS. 

extremities  of  rootlets.  The  bulbs  are  composed  of  fleshy 
scales,  either  loose  or  closely  imbricate. 

Most  of  the  species  produce  their  flowers  with  the  foliage  ; 
but  a  few  bloom  first,  and  then  mature  the  leaves. 

In  some  species,  the  new  bulbs  are  produced  at  the  end 
of  long,  straggling  roots,  the  old  bulb  dying.  Generally,  on 
examination,  a  pot  of  oxalis  will  be  found  filled  with  strag- 
ling  roots,  producing  bulbs  at  the  ends,  or  sometimes  pro- 
fusely along  the  sides,  of  the  rootlets. 

Many  have  thick,  fusiform  roots,  which  break  from  the 
base  of  the  bulbs,  but  which  dry  up  and  fall  away  when  the 
season's  growth  is  finished. 

The  foliage  is  generally  petiolate,  and  much  resembles 
clover,  and  has  a  sharp,  sour  taste  ;  whence  the  name  of  the 
species.  The  flowers  are  mostly  yellow,  red,  pink,  or  white, 
and  the  various  shades  of  these  colors ;  and  are  often  fra- 
grant. They  open  in  the  sun,  closing  in  dull  weather  and  at 
night. 

Seed  is  not  easily  ripened  ;  and  propagation  is  effected  by 
the  increase  of  bulbs,  which  takes  place  freely.  "We  have 
some  native  species,  one  of  which  is  an  annual ;  and  the 
little  oxalis  which  carpets  our  Northern  woods  (  0.  acetoceUa) 
is  well  known  to  every  observant  White-mountain  tourist. 


THE   OXALIS.  145 

Many  of  the  oxalis  make  admirable  window  -  plants, 
as  they  flower  freely,  and  are  remarkably  free  from  in- 
sects. 

As  all  are  of  rather  drooping,  low  habit,  they  are  often 
effective  as  drooping  plants  ;  and  one  of  the  smallest  species 
(0.  versicolor)  is  very  effective  for  lianging  baskets. 

Of  the  many  species,  we  can  only  mention  the  follow- 
ing:— 

0.  Boweii,  or  Boweana, — A  species  producing  large, 
bright,  rosy-red  flowers  during  the  whole  autumn.  The 
bulbs  should  be  potted  in  the  latter  part  of  August,  in 
rather  large  pots,  six  in  a  pot ;  and  will  be  in  bloom  by  the 
first  of  October. 

0.  cerniia.  —  This  is  a  pretty  plant,  bearing  yellow  flow- 
ers in  March,  and  requiring  the  general  treatment  of  Cape 
bulbs. 

0.  flava.  —  This  is  a  favorite  window-plant.  It  should 
be  potted  in  October,  and  will  bloom  from  March  to  May. 
The  foliage  is  neat  and  pretty  ;  and  the  yellow  flowers,  which 
are  freely  produced,  are  delightfully  fragrant.  There  is  a 
double  variety,  which  does  not  bloom  as  freely  as  the 
species,   and  is  not  desirable  except  in  collections. 

0.  versicolor.  —  This  i5  a  charming  plant.  The  bulbs 
10 


14G  THE   OXALIS. 

are  very  small,  and  should  be  planted  in  fine,  light  soil, 
four  or  five  in  a  pot,  about  half  an  inch  deep,  in  October. 
The  plants  will  form  a  mass  of  foliage,  and  droop  over  the 
pot,  producing  a  profusion  of  little  blossoms,  tubular  in  bud, 
but,  in  full  sunshine,  expanding  fully ;  the  outside  being 
crimson-red,  and  the  inside  creamy-white. 

0.  florihunda.  —  A  species  with  short,  fleshy  stems,  just 
serving  to  elevate  the  dense  tufts  of  leaves  and  blossoms 
above  the  soil,  and  with  herbaceous  roots.  The  plant 
should  be  allowed  to  dry  off  during  the  winter,  and  be 
bedded  out  in  summer,  when  it  will  bloom  profusely  for 
several  months.  The  flowers  are  rosy-pink,  and  the  plant 
is  a  native  of  Chili. 

0.  lasiandra  and  many  of  the  other  herbaceous  species 
'do  well  under  the  same  treatment. 

0.  luxula  and  the  variety  alha  are  very  pretty  plants, 
with  foliage  covering  the  pot,  and  large  red  or  white  flow- 
ers, produced  singly  on  stalks  springing  from  the  bulb.  Pot 
in  sandy  loam  in  September,  and  the  plants  will  bloom  from 
November  to  February. 

0.  Deppii  is  a  pretty  pink,  flowering  species,  the  fleshy 
tap-roots  of  which  are  often  used  as  an  esculent. 

The  following  species  are  worthy  of  cultivation :  — 


THE   IXIA.  147 

AUTUMN-BLOOMING. 

0.  monopliyUa^  Mauritiana^  lohata,  crenata,  amhigua,  Bra- 
ziliensis,  variabilis,  tuhiflora,  sidphurea,  imrpurata^  rostrata, 
tricolor,  dentata,  fallax,  furcata,  caprina. 

WINTER   AND    SPRING   BLOOMING. 

0.  miniata,  compressa,  hipundata,  multiflora,  cuprea,  incar- 
nata,  IiUeola,  polyphijlla, pmndata,  dtsticha. 

SUMMER-BLOOinNG. 

0.  macropJujUa,  caprina,  cuneata,  elongata,  pentaplujlla, 
JlabelUfolia, 

THE    IXIA. 

These  bulbs  are  all  natives  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 
The  fiimily  formerly  included  many  other  bulbs  which  have 
been  separated  from  it.  At  present,  the  genus  consists  of 
about  thirty  species,  which  are  distinguished  from  Sparaxis 
by  not  having  a  jagged  sheath,  "  from  Bahiana  by  having 
a  dry  seed-pod  instead  of  a  berry,  and  from  Tritonia  by 
having  the  stamens  inserted  at  the  bottom  of  the  petals 
instead  of  in  the  tube  of  the  flower."  The  bulbs  are  small, 
and  look  so  much  alike,  that  care  must  be  taken  to  distin- 


148  THE    IXIA. 

guish  the  species  by  proper  labelling.  They  require  only  to 
be  planted  in  sandy  loam,  from  four  to  eight  bulbs,  accord- 
ing to  the  size,  in  an  eight-inch  pot,  and  to  have  the  general 
treatment  of  Cape  bulbs.  They  bloom  in  March,  and,  if 
well  grown,  make  a  splendid  show.  The  different  species 
are  propagated  by  the  natural  increase  of  the  bulbs.  Seed- 
lings are  easily  raised. 

/.  viridiflora.  — This  is  one  of  the  most  charming  plants 
we  know.  The  color  of  the  flowers  —  a  peculiarly  delicate 
and  yet  vivid,  indescribable  green,  with  a  dark,  black  eye 
—  produces  an  effect  to  which  no  words  of  ours  can  do 
justice. 

It  is  a  strong-growing  species,  and  blooms  freely,  but 
often  fails  to  perfect  bulbs  as  large  as  those  planted.  It 
can  readily  be  imported,  and  is  very  cheap. 

/.  erecta.  —  A  fine  species,  with  a  long  spike  of  white 
flowers,  with  a  dark  eye.  It  produces  plenty  of  offsets,  and, 
with  the  variety  incarnata,  should  be  in  every  collection. 

I.  monadelpha.  —  A  pretty,  free-blooming  species,  having 
a  peculiar,  flattened  bulb.  The  flowers  are  blue,  with 
green  eye,  and  variously  banded. 

I.  conica.  —  A  lovely  and  very  showy  species,  with  orange 
flowers  and  crimson  buds.     As  the  flowers  are  very  freely 


THE   IXIA.  149 

produced,  and  very  handsome,  this  species  should  be  generally 
cultivated. 

/.  maculata. — A  very  beautiful  species,  with  flowers  of 
white  and  brown,  and  much  resembling  /.  virkliflora  in 
habit.  A  variety  ockrohuca,  sometimes  considered  a  spe- 
cies, has  large,  creamy-white  flowers,  with  a  brown  centre, 
and  long,  slender  tubes. 

These  species  are  rather  difficult  to  keep. 

/.  sciUaris.  —  A  small  species,  with  flowers  varying  from 
purple  to  white.  It  flowers  very  early,  and  should  there- 
fore be  potted  in  September.  It  is  more  tender  tlian  the 
species  previously  described. 

I.  patens.  —  A  species  with  bright-crimson  flowers,  and 
of  easy  culture  in  loam  and  sand.  In  England,  the  species 
is  hardy  enough  to  stand  the  winter,  and  probably  would  be 
hardy  in  the  Southern  States.  A  bed  of  such  a  plant 
Avould  produce  a  most  brilliant  effect. 

We  may  also  mention  /.  capitata,  white,  with  blue  centre  ; 
J.  crateroides,  reddish  yellow ;  /.  hyhrida,  white  ;  /.  aristata, 
pink  ;  /.  odorata.  yellow  ;  I.  crispa^  bright  pink. 

In  fact,  all  the  species  are  worth  growing,  and  make  good 
window-plants.  It  is,  however,  better  to  grow  the  plants  in 
a  pit  or  greenhouse,  and,  when  in  bloom,  bring  them  into 


150  THE   BABIANA. 

the  parlor,  as  the  foliage  is  not  handsome,  and  the  only 
beauty  of  the  plants  consists  in  the  brilliant  blossoms. 

These  remarks  apply  with  equal  force  to  Bahianas,  Trito- 
nias,  and  Sparaxis.  Many  fine  seedling  varieties  of  ixia 
have  been  recently  raised,  which  are  even  more  beautiful 
than  the  species.  A  small  outlay  will  import  a  fine  collec- 
tion of  these  showy  plants,  and  would  give  great  satisfac- 
tion to  any  amateur.  It  is  strange  that  Cape  bulbs  are  so 
little  grown. 

THE    BABIANA. 

The  roots  of  these  plants  are  solid  corms,  covered  with 
hard,  brown  scales.  A  new  corm  forms  every  year  from 
the  centre  of  the  old  one,  which  forms  a  hard,  dry  shell  be- 
neath it.  These  bulbs  have  very  showy  flowers,  in  form 
somewhat  between  an  ixia  and  a  gladiolus. 

They  are  not  as  hardy  as  ixias,  and  are  very  impatient  of 
wet,  especially  during  the  season  of  rest.  A  light,  sandy  soil 
suits  them  well ;  and,  as  the  leaves  are  generally  hairy  and 
plaited,  they  are  even  more  subject  to  attacks  of  red  spider 
than  the  ixias.  In  general,  however,  they  require  much 
the  same  treatment,  and  a  season  of  perfect  rest,  during 
which  they  must  be  kept  very  dry.     They  are  propagated 


THE   BABIANA.  151 

by  offsets  and  seeds,  the  latter  of  which  bloom  the  third 
season  after  planting.  As  window-plants  they  do  well,  but 
do  not  flower  as  strongly  as  in  the  greenhouse. 

There  arc  about  twenty  species,  all  natives  of  the  Cape  ; 
among  which  we  may  enumerate 

B.  ruhro  cijanea.  — This  plant  is  often  sold  by  florists  as 
an  ixia,  but  is  easily  distinguished  by  its  broad,  plaited 
leaves.  Tiie  flowers  are  among  the  most  brilliant  of  the 
bulbous  tribe,  and  present  a  combination  of  brilliant  ultra- 
marine blue  and  dazzling  crimson.  The  bulbs  are  small ; 
but  each  produces  three  or  four  flowers,  which  remain  in 
perfection  several  days  if  kept  in  the  shade.  The  phint  is 
of  easiest  culture,  requiring  only  the  usual  treatment  of 
Cape  bulbs. 

B.  villosa. — This  is  a  showy  species,  with  bright-crimson 
flowers,  freely  produced  in  April.     A  large  pot  of  this  spe- 
cies is  very  effective  in  the  greenhouse. 
<  B.  strida. — A  pretty  species,  with  lilac-and-white  flowers. 

B.  tuhiflora.  —  A  free-growing  plant,  with  light  or  straw- 
colored  flowers,  —  often  reddish.  This  species  has  done 
better  with  us  in  the  greenhouse  than  any  except  B.  plicata, 

B.  sulphurea.  —  A  fine  species,  with  very  large-spreading, 
sulphur,  cream-colored  flowers. 


152  THE   SPAR  AXIS. 

B.  plicata.  —  A  dwarf-growing  species,  producing  an 
abundance  of  blue,  fragrant  flowers. 

We  may  also  mention  B.  spathacea,  purple  flowers  ;  B. 
hicolor,  blue  and  white  ;  B.  angustifolia,  blue,  with  choco- 
late centre  ;  B.  samhucina,  rich  purj^le,  fragrant  flowers.  In- 
deed, all  the  babianas  are  well  worth  growing  ;  and  one  can 
hardly  make  a  mistake  in  planting  them. 

THE    SPARAXIS. 

These  plants,  in  their  flowers,  bear  a  great  resemblance  to 
ixias  ;  and,  indeed,  only  differ  from  them  slightly  botanically. 
The  flowers  are  usually  more  showy  ;  but  the  plants  thrive 
and  bloom  well  under  the  same  culture.  The  treatment  after 
blooming,  and  the  modes  of  propagation,  are  essentially  the 
same. 

There  are  about  a  dozen  species,  all  natives  of  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope. 

S.  tricolor.  —  A  very  brilliant  flower,  of  bands  of  yellow, 
black,  and  orange.  It  should  be  potted  in  October,  in  a 
compost  of  two  parts  sand  and  one  part  each  of  yellow  loam 
and  leaf-mould,  and  be  regularly  but  moderately  watered 
during  the  winter.     When  the  flower-buds  form  in   spring. 


THE   SPARAXIS.  153 

the  supply  of  water  should  be  increased  until  the  flowering 
season  is  over,  when  the  bulbs  should  be  gradually  allowed 
to  go  to  rest.  There  are  varieties  with  red,  white,  and 
purple  flowers. 

S,  versicolor.  —  A  species  somewhat  resembling  the  last; 
the  ground-color  of  the  flowers,  however,  being  crimson 
instead  of  orange.  It  is  also  hardier,  as  in  England  it 
stands  the  winter  in  the  garden. 

S.  f/randijlora. — This  species  has  from  one  to  five  flow- 
ers, purple  inside,  and  whitish  outside.  There  are  two 
varieties,  —  Uliago,  by  some  considered  a  species  ;  and  stria^ 
ta,  the  former  with  white  and  the  latter  with  variegated 
flowers. 

All  flower  in  spring,  and  require  the  same  treatment  as 
the  other  species. 

S.  pendala.  —  This  elegant  species  produces  long,  droop- 
ing spikes  of  purple  flowers.  In  growth  and  habit,  it  is  un- 
like all  the  other  species.  The  spike  is  often  four  or  five 
feet  long,  springing  from  a  tuft  of  long,  reedy  leaves.  The 
plant  is  a  native  of  wet  situations,  and  does  best  planted 
out  in  the  greenhouse,  and  allowed  to  take  care  of  itself. 
We  have,  however,  grown  it  successfully  in  a  pot,  using  a 
compost  of  turfy  loam  and  sand. 


154  THE   TPJTONIA. 

Some  of  the  other  species  are  S.  anemoneflora,  white 
flowers  ;  S.  lineata,  white  and  pink  ;  S.  hulbifera,  yellow  ; 
>S'.  stellaris,  purple  ;   S.  fragrans.  yellow. 

Many  of  the  sparaxis  have  the  curious  property  of  pro- 
ducing small  bulbs  in  the  axils  of  the  leaves  and  on  the 
joints  of  the  stem :  these  bulblets,  when  ripe,  may  be 
planted,  and  in  time  produce  flowering  plants. 

THE   TEITONIA. 

The  members  of  this  family  differ  strangely  in  appear- 
ance ;  some  much  resembling  an  ixia,  others  again  being 
like  a  babiana,  some  nearly  approaching  a  gladiolus,  while 
others  resemble  none  of  these. 

The  plants  are  generally  of  dwarf  growth,  and  rather 
more  tender  than  their  near  allies  the  ixia  and  gladiolus. 
In  growth,  they  are  benefited  by  the  usual  treatment  given 
to  Cape  bulbs  of  weak  growth  ;  that  is,  the  application  of 
bottom  heat  to  encoura^^e  the  growth  of  roots  before  the 
tops  become  largely  developed. 

A  good  plan  is  to  plunge  the  pots  in  a  weak  hot-bed  as 
soon  as  the  bulbs  are  planted  ;  the  secret  being,  to  allow  the 
temperature  of  the  roots  to  be  a  few  degrees  higher  than 
that  of  the  foliage. 


THE   TRITONIA.  155 

We  extract  from  an  English  work  a  method  of  orowini:^ 
these  Cape  bulbs  which  has  been  very  successful,  and 
which  might  be  practised  in  this  country,  certainly  south  of 
Philadelphia,  without  difficulty  :  — 

"  Pot  the  bulbs  in  October,  in  light,  turfy  loam  and  sand, 
with  good  drainage.  Prepare  a  bed  of  dry  old  tan,  mixed 
with  fresh  hot  litter  from  the  stable,  at  least  one  foot  deep 
below  the  level  of  the  garden  ;  and  place  a  large  frame 
over  it.  In  this  plunge  the  pots  :  the  more  tender  gladioli 
at  the  back,  as  being  the  stronger  growers  ;  and  ixias,  spa- 
raxis,  babianas,  tritonias,  in  regular  gradation  to  the  front. 
Give  air  when  the  weather  will  admit ;  being  careful  not  to 
water  so  much  as  to  induce  damping  off,  and  always  by 
banking  and  covering  with  mats  and  Shutters  to  exclude 
frost.  The  sparaxis,  under  this  treatment,  begin  to  show 
bloom  about  April,  and  will  be  succeeded  by  ixias,  babianas, 
gladiolus,  and  tritonias,  in  succession.  The  plants  should 
be  all  removed  to  the  greenhouse  to  bloom.  After  the 
blooms  have  passed,  replace  them  in  the  frame,  continue  wa- 
tering to  perfect  the  foliage,  and  form  bulbs  for  the 
ensuing  season.  Give  full  exposure  to  the  sun  until  the 
leaves  have  died  away,  that  the  bulbs  may  become  thor- 
oughly ripened." 


156  THE   TRITONIA. 

There  are  about  twenty-five  species  of  tritonia,  of  which 
those  most  commonly  grown  are 

T.  crocata.  —  This  species  is  commonly  known  in  green- 
houses as  orange  ixia,  and  is  one  of  the  most  floriferous  of 
Cape  bulbs.  It  requires  only  to  be  potted,  syringed  for 
red  spider,  and  regularly  watered  ;  and,  in  April,  is  sure  to 
give  a  profusion  of  its  rich  orange-flowers. 

It  propagates  rapidly  by  offsets  and  by  seed,  which  comes 
true. 

T.  crispa.  —  The  flowers  are  pale  bluish  color,  and  resem- 
ble a  babiana.  The  plant  does  not  flower  until  very  late 
in  the  spring. 

T.  rosea.  —  A  handsome  but  delicate  species  with  rosy 
flowers,  having  a  deep  pink  tube. 

T.  longiflora.  —  The  flowers' are  dirty  white,  and,  as  the 
name  indicates,  have  very  long  tubes :  there  are  varieties 
with  straw-color  and  yellow  flowers.  The  species  grows 
and  flowers  freely,  and  is,  with  the  varieties,  one  of 
the  most  satisfactory  of  the  family  for  greenhouse  cul- 
ture. 

T.  fucata.  —  A  very  showy  plant  with  yellow  and  red 
flowers  of  a  peculiar  form.  The  species  multiplies  freely, 
but  is  difficult  to  flower. 


THE   GEISSORHIZA.  157 

T.  lineata. — A  pretty  species  with  pale-yellow  and 
orange  flowers,  finely  pencilled  with  dark  lines. 

T.  squalida.  — ■  A  lovely  species,  not  uncommon  in  collec- 
tions, producing  white-and-pink  beautifully  marked  flowers. 
Other  species  are  T.  fenestrata,  orange-flowers  ;  T.  flava, 
yello^v  ;  T.  miniata^  orange  ;  T.  pallida,  straw-color  ;  T. 
purpurea,  purple  ;  T.  liochensis,  cream-color  ;  T.  securigera, 
brown  ;  T.  deusfa,  reddish  ;  T.  viridis,  green ;  T.  aurea, 
orange ;  T.  Capensis,  white.  T.  aurea  is  now  separated 
from  this  family,  and  called  Crocosmia  aurea. 


THE    GEISSORHIZA. 


A  small  family  of  tender  bulbs,  formerly  classed  with 
ixia,  mostly  natives  of  the  Cape  of  Good   Hope,   and  re- 


158  THE   GEISSORHIZA. 

quiring  the  usual  treatment  of  Cape  bulbs,  except  that  the 
soil  in  which  they  are  grown  should  be  very  sandy.  The 
plants  are  commonly  called  "tile-root,"  from  the  tile-like 
scales  which  cover  the  roots.  None  of  the  species  are  very 
common.     The  best  are 

G.  BocJieana. — A  pretty  little  plant  known  as  "plaid 
ixia."  The  bulb  is  small,  but  the  flowers  very  brilliant; 
the  colors  being  blue,  white,  and  crimson. 

G,  obtusata.  —  A  larger-growing  species  with  straw  and 
buff  flowers. 

G.  vaginata  —  A  very  showy  species,  flowering  in  Au- 
gust. The  flowers  are  yellow,  tipped  with  dark  purple  or 
black. 

G.  secimda.  —  A  blue,  flowered  species,  with  a  white 
variety. 

G.  excisa.  —  A  small-growing  species  known  as  Ixia 
excisa.  The  flowers  are  white,  lined  with  pink  and  with 
a  green  centre,  and  open  only  in  full  sunshine. 

There  are  about  half  a  dozen  other  species  which  have 
been  introduced  ;  but  they  are  rarely  met  with,  and  some  are 
probably  lost  to  cultivation. 


ESCRIPTIOX  must  fail  to  couvey  an  idea 
of  the   stately  grandeur,  the  queenly  purity, 
and  graceful  habit,  of  this  beautiful  flower. 
The  lily  is  pre-eminently  a  garden-bulb  ;  there  being  very 
few,  which,  with  some  slight  protection,  will  not  bear  a  New- 
England  winter,  and  many  are  among  the  hardiest  garden- 
flowers. 

All  lilies  have  scaly  bulbs,  and  are  propagated  by  offsets, 
by  seed,  by  stem-bulbs  in  some  cases,  and  by  separating  the 
scales  of  the  bulb  and  planting  each  scale  in  silver-sand, 
where  it  will  soon  make  a  small  bulb.  All  the  above 
methods,  except  by  seed,  are  for  the  perpetuating  old  estab- 

159 


160  THE   LILY. 

lished  species  or  varieties  :  by  seed  alone,  new  hybrid  varie- 
ties are  produced.  The  culture  of  the  lily  is  very  simple. 
Most  of  the  species  like  a  deep,  rich  soil,  enriched  with  well- 
rotted  manure  ;  but  care  must  be  taken  that  water  does  not 
stand  round  the  roots  in  winter,  as  this  often  rots  the  bulbs. 
Many  of  the  species  like  a  sandy  loam,  and  most  are  benefited 
when  first  planted  by  placing  in  the  hole  a  handful  of  sand. 

The  generally  received  opinion  is  that  lilies  should  only 
be  transplanted  in  the  autumn.  In  our  experience,  however, 
they  have  done  quite  as  well  removed  in  early  spring  ;  care 
being  taken  to  keep  the  bulb  from  drying,  and  not  to  injure 
the  young  roots  or  shoots.  In  transplanting,  the  bulb  should 
be  kept  out  of  the  ground  the  shortest  possible  time.  It  is  the 
drying  process  the  bulbs  have  undergone  which  causes  such 
loss  in  imported  lilies  ;  more  than  one-half  of  them,  in  spite 
of  every  care,  failing  to  come  up  the  spring  after  planting. 

Lilies  once  planted  should  be  disturbed  as  seldom  as  pos- 
sible, and  only  when  rendered  necessary  by  the  increase  of 
bulbs :  for  most  species,  unless  propagation  is  the  object, 
once  in  five  years  is  often  enough  for  the  health  of  the  plant. 
As  the  bulbs  cannot  be  disturbed  after  planting,  the  prepara- 
tion of  the  bed  becomes  a  matter  of  the  first  importance. 
The  soil  should  be  deep,  that  the  plants  may  not  suffer  from 


THE   LILY.  IGl 

drought ;  and  be  enriched  with  a  liberal  quantity  of  "vvell- 
rotted  manure,  whieli  s^liould  be  Avell  worked  in.  Each 
autunui,  a  top-dressing  of  well -rotted  manure  should 
be  carefully  forked  in  between  the  rows  ;  and,  on  the  ap- 
proacli  of  winter,  tlie  bed  should  be  covered  witli  clean  lit- 
ter or  leaves,  which  covering  should  be  removed  in  early 
spring.  Tiie  bulbs  should  be  planted  from  three  to  six 
inches  deep,  according  to  their  size. 

Many  of  the  lilies  force  well  in  tlie  greenhouse,  particu- 
larly L.  candidum,  speciosum^  longijionim^  lanci/olium,  and 
Japoniciun  ;  but  none  are  suitable  for  parlor  culture.  There 
are  about  seventy-five  well-known  species  and  varieties  ;  and 
new  species  are  being  discovered,  and  new  hybrids  produced, 
every  year.* 

The  characteristics  of  a  good  lily  are  as  follow :  — 

LILT. 

1.  The  plant  should  be  only  as  high  from  the  pot  to  the 
bottom  llower  as  it  is  from  the  bottom  flower  to  the  top 
one.  The  leaves  should  be  long,  and  plenty  of  them  at  bot- 
tom, and  gradually  shorten  and  lessen  in  number  as  they 
approach  the  bottom  bloom. 

2.  The  individual  bloom  should  be  large,  and  composed 

J.  *  See  "  Garden  Flowers." 


162  THE  LILY. 

of  broad  petals  reflexing  in  the  form  of  a  globe,  without 
separation  at  the  points,  or  forming  gutters  or  uneven  ribs 
in  the  petals,  but  showing  a  fair,  round,  even  surface,  and 
exhibiting  none  of  the  backs  of  the  petals. 

3.  The  petals  should  be  thick,  rich  in  texture,  free  from 
notches,  or  puckers,  of  pure  ground-color  or  white.  The 
blooms  should  be  on  strong  foot-stalks,  the  lower  flower 
farther  off  the  stem  than  the  upper  ;  and  there  should  not  be 
less  than  seven  in  the  truss,  or  spike,  that  should  form  a 
tapering  head  of  flowers. 

4.  The  varieties  speckled  with  the  ruby-like  spots  should 
be  of  pure  white  ground,  and  the  spots  bright  scarlet :  those 
with  pale  rosy  ground  should  have  black  spots ;  and  the 
more  and  the  larger,  the  better. 

The  species  most  commonly  cultivated  are 

L.  candidum.  —  This  is  the  old-fashioned  white  or 
Annunciation  lily,  one  of  the  oldest  inhabitants  of  the  gar- 
den, but  always  a  favorite,  and  a  plant  of  which  no  garden 
can  have  too  many.  While  thriving  in  common  border- 
soil,  this  species  grows  and  flowers  with  wonderful  luxuri- 
ance in  a  richly  prepared  bed.  In  our  own  garden,  such  a 
bed  was  a  splendid  object  during  the  past  season.  The  bed 
was  ten  feet  in  diameter,  excavated  six  feet  deep  in  sandy 


THE   LILY.  163 

soil,  filled  with  rich  loam  and  manure,  and  planted  with 
fifty  bulbs  of  this  lily ;  and  the  effect,  when  in  bloom,  was 
very  fine.  The  species  is  a  native  of  the  Levant ;  and  there 
are  varieties  with  double  flowers,  with  striped  and  spotted 
flowers,  and  with  foliage  variegated  with  gold  and  silver 
markings.  All  are  of  value  in  a  collection  ;  but  none  are  to 
be  compared  with  the  species. 

L.  hulhiferum.  —  This  is  the  common  orange-lily,  hardy 
in  any  situation,  propagated  freely  by  bulblets.  It  need  not 
be  removed  when  once  planted  ;  for  it  will  take  care  of 
itself,  and  flower  freely  year  after  year. 

L.  monadelplium. — The  common  yellow  Caucasian  lily 
is  not  as  common  as  L.  hulhiferum^  but  is  equally  hardy, 
and  requires  the  same  treatment.  In  growth,  it  resembles 
the  martagou  lilies,  and  has  been  an  inhabitant  of  our  gar- 
dens since  1800. 

L.  pcregrinum.  —  This  very  handsome  species  is  a  native 
of  the  Levant.  It  is  perfectly  hardy,  and  its  white  flowers 
are  very  showy ;  but  it  is  not  common. 

L.  croceum.  —  A  very  hardy  species,  with  showy  yellow 
flowers,  a  native  of  the  south  of  Europe,  growing  freely  in 
common  garden-soil. 

L.    Canadense.  —  This,  the  species  so  common  in  rich 


164  THE   LILY. 

meadows,  producing  drooping  yellow  flowers,  is  greatly 
improved  by  cultivation  ;  the  plant  increasing  in  size  and 
in  the  number  of  flowers.  The  bulbs  should  be  trans- 
planted in  autumn  to  a  bed  of  peaty  loam,  where  they  may 
remain  undisturbed  for  years. 

L.  snperhum.  —  This  lily  is  not  found  wild  in  Southern 
New  England  ;  but,  in  New  York  and  the  Northern  States, 
is  the  common  red  drooping-lily  of  the  meadows.  In  culti- 
vation, it  is  a  magnificent  plant ;  often  producing  a  spike 
with  from  twenty  to  thirty  flowers.  It  requires  the  same 
treatment  as  the  last  species ;  and,  like  it,  has  white  creep- 
ing roots. 

L.  Philadelphicum.  —  The  common  upright  red  lily  of  the 
pastures,  producing  one,  rarely  two  or  three,  handsome  red 
flowers,  spotted  with  black.  The  bulb  is  small  and  white, 
and  may  be  transplanted  to  the  garden,  where  it  grows  vig- 
orously.    The  soil  should  be  rather  light. 

L.  Cateshaei.  —  The  Southern  red  lily  much  resembles 
the  last ;  but  the  color  is  lighter.  It  is  plentiful  south  of 
Philadelphia ;  and  has  even  been  found  wild  in  Massachu- 
setts, where  it  proves  hardy  in  the  garden. 

L.  martagon.  —  Of  the  Turk's-cap  lily  there  are  a  dozen 
varieties,   with   white,  reddish,   and    purple   flowers    and 


THE   LILY.  165 

whorlcd  leaves.  They  are  all  of  coarse  habit,  but  look 
well  iu  the  garden.  The  individual  flowers  are  small ;  but 
many  are  produced  on  the  spike.  Most  of  the  species  are 
hardy  ;  though,  iu  New  England,  those  with  white  flowers 
require  winter  protection  of  leaves  or  litter,  as  they  are 
sometimes  killed. 

L.  Pijrenakum.  —  A  fine  species  much  resembling  the 
martagon,  but  with  yellow  flowers,  and  leaves  not  whorled. 
A  native  of  the  Pyrenees,  and  hardy. 

L.  Chalcedomcum.  —  A  beautiful  flower,  commonly  called 
the  scarlet  martagon,  generally  hardy,  and  only  requiring 
to  be  planted  iu  good  soil.     A  native  of  Hungary. 

L.  longiflorum.  —  This  splendid  lily  is  hardy  enough  to 
stand  a  New-England  winter.  The  flowers  are  white,  six 
to  nine  inches  long,  and  very  fragrant.  The  bulbs  should 
be  planted  four  inches  deep  in  a  well-prepared  bed,  which 
should  be  covered  during  the  Aviuter  with  six  inches  of  tan 
or  clean  litter. 

L.  pumilum.  —  A  lovely  little  species  with  red  flowers  ;  a 
native  of  Siberia;  hardy,  but  not  common. 

L.  tenuifolium.  —  A  pretty  species  with  drooping  red 
flowers  and  fine-cut  foliage ;  a  native  of  the  Caucasus ; 
hardy,  but  rare. 


166  THE   LILY. 

L.  atrosanguineum.  —  A  species  with  orange-red  flowers, 
from  Japan  ;  perfectly  hardy  in  a  light  soil. 

L.  Kamschathense.  —  A  small-growing  species  with  purple 
flowers,  hardy. 

L,  ijomioonium.  —  A  well-known  red  lily,  a  native  of 
Siberia,  and  long  an  inhabitant  of  the  garden.  Both 
the  species  and  a  double  variety  are  worthy  a  place  in 
the  border. 

L.  speciosum  and  lancifolium,  —  These  and  the  many  hy- 
brid varieties  are  the  well-known  Japan  lilies  of  the  garden, 
once  considered  greenhouse  species,  but  now  known  to  be 
perfectly  hardy.  The  flowers  are  too  well  known  to  need 
description ;  and,  indeed,  no  words  can  do  justice  to  their 
beauty.  The  hybrid  varieties  of  the  last  five  years  far 
exceed  the  species  in  beauty,  and  are  now  so  cheap  as  to 
be  obtained  by  all.  These  plants  delight  in  a  rich  deep 
soil ;  and,  when  well  grown,  are  splendid  objects  in  the 
garden. 

L.  Japonicum.  —  This  beautiful  species  is  hardly  hardy 
in  New  England.  The  flower  is  large  and  bell-shaped, 
the  petals  curving  upward  at  the  point.  In  the  greenhouse, 
it  blooms  well. 

L.  auratum.  —  This,  the  most  magnificent  lily  known  to 


THE    LILY.  167 

cultivation,  is  not  as  hardy  as  L.  lancifoUmn,  and  more 
liable  to  disease.  Bulbs  left  out  in  the  open  ground  during 
the  winter  will  come  up  and  do  well  at  first ;  but,  after  the 
flower-buds  are  formed,  they  are  very  apt  to  die  out,  the 
leaves  turning  yellow,  and  the  whole  plant  rapidly  failing. 
This  is  not  uncommon,  even  when  they  are  kept  in  pots 
and  sheltered  from  severe  frosts.  The  plant  requires  the 
house  treatment  of  L.  lancifoUuin,  but  may  be  bedded  out 
in  the  border  in  summer.  The  flower  is  very  large,  white, 
with  deep  yellow  bands  down  the  petals.  There  seem  to  be 
varieties,  differing  in  the  intensity  of  the  bauds  :  the  stalks 
are  many-flowered.  The  accounts  of  its  size,  beauty,  and 
fragrance,  are  not  exaggerated.  The  credit  of  introducing 
this  splendid  lily  belongs  to  New  England.  It  was 
brought  from  Japan  in  18G0  by  F.  Gordon  Dexter,  Esq., 
who  placed  it  in  the  hands  of  Francis  Lee,  Esq.,  by  whom 
it  was  bloomed  in  the  summer  of  1861.  In  the  spring  of 
18G2,  Mr.  Lee  transferred  it  to  Francis  Parkman,  Esq.,  a 
zealous  amateur,  who  exhibited  it  at  the  Massachusetts 
Horticultural  Exhibition  on  the  Btli  of  July  of  the  same 
year,  and  described  it  in  "  The  Gardener's  Monthly."  It 
was  bloomed  in  England  this  same  year  (18G2)  for  the  first 
time. 


168 


THE  LILY. 


L.  venustum.  —  This  beautiful  species  is  often  imported 
under  the  names  of  7v.  testaceum,  superhum^  and  peregriniun ; 
and  sending  for  any  of  these  to  Holland  will  bring  a  good 
supply  of  L.  venustum;  and,  indeed,  one  can  scarcely  have 
too  many.  The  plant  is  hardy,  grows  well  in  any  garden- 
soil,  and  produces  large  spikes  of  nodding  buff  or  creamy 
orange  flowers.     It  likes  a  rich  soil  not  too  wet. 


The  greenhouse  species  are  of  easy  culture  in  loam  and 
leaf-mould  with  a  little  sharp  sand.  They  require  large 
pots  ;  plenty  of  water,  light,  and  air,  while  in  growth  ;  and 


THE   LILY.  169 

are  beuefited  by  waterings  of  weak  manure-water.  Among 
the  tender  species  may  be  mentioned  L.  g'ujanteum^  a 
very  line  species  from  the  Ilimahiyas,  with  large  white 
flowers  ;  L.  roseiim,  with  rosy-purple  flowers,  from  India  ; 
L.  Thompsonianum,  an  Indian  species,  with  rosy  flowers  ; 
L.  WaUichianum,  from  Nepaul,  with  greenish-white  flow- 
ers ;  and  L.  concolor,  a  native  of  China,  with  brilliant  red 
flowers. 

There  are  many  other  lilies  in  cultivation,  and  many 
hybrids,  to  which  it  would  be  dillicult  to  assign  their  true 
position.  Later  years  have  shown  many  to  be  hardy 
which  were  once  reputed  tender,  and  the  future  may  show 
further  progress  in  the  same  direction. 

The  different  species  and  varieties  hybridize  freely ;  and 
there  is  no  flower  which  presents  greater  attractions  for 
the  skill  of  the  botanist  or  the  experiments  of  the 
amateur. 


XII. 

THE  FRITTELARIA,    FERRARIA,    ALLIUM,     ORNITHOGALUM. 
THE    FRITTELARIA. 

ARLY  in  the  spring,  the  dark 
11^,,^  blunt  shoots  of  the  crown  im- 
perial (jP.  imperialis),  pushing 
from  the  ground,  give  promise 
of  the  crown  of  showy  blos- 
soms which  a  few  weeks  will  develop.  And,  indeed, 
in  few  flowers  is  the  growth  more  rapid.  Each  sunny- 
day  the  plant  grows  apace,  and  soon  unfolds  its  crown 
of  flowers,  surmounted  by  the  tuft  of  green  foliage. 
The  crown  imperial,  which  was  the  most  ornamenta 
of  the  frittclarias,  has  been  separated  from  the  genus, 
and  now  forms  a  new  family  called  Fetilium,  the  species 

being  P.  imperiale;    but,  as  it  is   popularly   classed  with 

170 


THE    FRITTELARIA.  171 

frittelaria,  we  have  thought  best  to  describe  it  under  that 
family. 

All  the  frittelarias  do  best  iu  a  deep,  rich  soil,  and 
are  much  benefited  by  top-dressings  of  well-rotted  manure. 
All  the  crown  imperials  are  hardy,  requiring  no  protec- 
tion iu  winter :  in  summer  they  do  not  like  a  soil  which 
becomes  very  dry,  as  the  bulbs  suffer  from  drought.  Many 
of  the  smaller  species  of  frittelaria,  especially  those  with 
white  flowers,  are  less  hardy,  and  iu  New  England  require 
Avinter  protection.  Like  the  crown  imperial,  they  are  im- 
patient of  drought  ;  and  none  should  be  long  kept  out  of 
the  ground  Avhen  transplanted.  All  the  species  propagate 
freely  by  offsets,  and  most  ripen  seed  freely,  which  should 
be  sown  and  treated  like  other  seedling  bulbs.  Seedlings 
bloom  the  tliird  vear. 

All  the  species  may  remain  in  the  ground  undis- 
turbed for  years,  where  they  soon  form  large  masses, 
and   are   very   effective. 

All  bloom  in  May,  and  contrast  well  with  tulips  and 
the    later   hyacinths. 

F.  {Petilium)  imperialis.  —  This  species  is  a  native  of 
Persia,  but  has  been  an  inmate  of  the  garden  since 
1596.     The    bulbs    are    large,   and    have    a    rank,    un- 


172  THE   FRITTELARIA. 

pleasant  smell,  which,  when  the  plants  are  in  rapid 
growth,  is  distributed  over  the  Avhole  plant,  so  that 
the  breeze  blowing  over  a  bed  of  crown  imperials  is 
by  no  means  pleasantly  perfumed.  The  flowers,  how- 
ever, are  fragrant :  they  are  remarkable  for  the  drops 
of  honey  wiiich  stand  in  the  petals  of  the  flower,  and 
which  shine  with  peculiar  lustre.  This  property  is 
possessed  in  common  by  all  the  family,  but  in  the 
greatest   degree   by    this    species. 

The  ovaries,  after  the  fading  of  the  flower,  become 
erect,    and    produce    abundance    of  seed. 

This  species  should  be  planted  six  inches  deep,  in 
a  very  rich  soil.  The  stems  appear  early  in  spring, 
but  die  away  by  the  last  of  June ;  and  their  place 
may  be  occupied  by  bedding-plants.  These  plants  look 
well  in  a  large  bed  composed  of  mixed  varieties,  of 
which  those  with  golden  and  silver  striped  foliage  are 
the   fmest-foliaged   plants    of  early   spring. 

There  are  many  varieties,  of  which  the  single  red,  yel- 
low, and  those  with  variegated  foliage,  are  the  best.  The 
double  varieties  are  by  no  means  as  good  as  the  single. 

F.  Fersica.  —  This  very  handsome  plant  is  as  hardy 
as   the   crown   imperial,    and   requires    the    same    culture. 


THE   FERRAmA.  173 

Wlieu  well  grown,  it  is  very  showy;  for,  although  the 
iiulividual  flowers  are  small  aud  dull-colored,  they  are 
produced    ou    a    loug    spike    iu    great    profusion. 

F.  meleagris.  —  This  is  the  well-known  guinea-hen 
flower,  and  is  a  native  of  England.  The  bulb  is 
small,  white,  and  flat,  and  produces  one  large  nodding 
flower.  The  species  is  perfectly  hardy,  and  requires 
only  the  same  care  as  a  crocus,  except  that  it  does 
not  need  frequent  rephmting.  There  are  other  species, 
of  wliich  we  may  mention  F.  latifoUa  and  tencUa,  which 
resemble  F.  mehagris^  F.  hdea  with  yellow,  and  F. 
ohllqaa   with   dark-purple   flowers. 

THE    FERRARIA. 

These  are  Cape  bulbs,  and  are  worthy  of  culture 
by  tlie  amateur,  though  the  flowers  are  dull-colored. 
They  require  to  be  potted  iu  October,  in  sandy  loam, 
with  a  little  peat,  moderately  watered  during  growth, 
aud  kept  perfectly  dry  when  at  rest.  They  flower  in 
early  spring,  and  then  immediately  lose  their  foliage. 

The  plants  are  all  dwarf,  and  the  bulbs  small:  in 
growth,    they    need    a    light,    airy   situation. 


174  THE   ALLIUM. 

They  increase  freely  by  offsets,  and  also  ripen  seed, 
which  may  be  sown  when  ripe,  or  kept  until  the  fol- 
lowing spring.  In  England  they  survive  the  winter, 
planted   in  a  warm,  dry  border. 

The  species  are, — 

F.  antherosa,  with  green  and  brown  flowers. 

F.  angustifoUa^  with  brown  flowers. 

F.  uncinata.  —  A  curious  species,  with  green  flowers, 
having  a  bright-blue  mark  in  the  centre. 

F.  atrata. — Very  brilliant  purple  flowers. 

F.  divaricata.  —  Flowers  purple  and  green. 

F.  elongata.  —  Dark-purple  flowers  ;  a  native  of  Monte- 
video,   flowering   in   July. 

F.  oUusifolia.  —  This  is  the  largest  species,  growing 
eighteen  inches  high,  and  throwing  out  branches.  It 
blooms  in  summer,  and  should  be  treated  like  summer- 
blooming  bulbs.  It  is  showy,  and  produces  a  profusion 
of  brown  flowers. 

F.  undulata.  —  A  pretty  species,  with  green  and  brown 
flowers. 

THE    ALLIUM. 

Although  not  suitable  flowers  for  bouquets  or  for 
parlor    culture,    many   of    the    onions    {allium)    are   very 


THE   ALLIUM.  175 

ornamental  in  the  border.  Indeed,  the  family,  probably 
from  prejudice,  has  been  much  neglected,  when  many  far 
less  showy  plants  have  found   favor. 

Many  of  the  species  are  very  ornamental,  and  are 
perfectly  hardy  in  common  garden-soil,  requiring  no 
particular  care,  and  yearly  producing  masses  of  showy 
flowers. 

Out  of  some  fifty  species,  we  can  recommend  the 
following  for  the  garden.     All  increase  readily  by  offsets. 

A.  inohj.  —  A  low-growing  species,  which  in  early  June 
produces  a  mass  of  golden-yellow  flowers.  A  native  of 
the  south  of  Europe,  and  one  of  the  hardiest  species. 

A.  coeruleum.  —  A  pretty  species,  with  bright-blue 
flowers ;   a  native   of  Russia,   and  hardy. 

A.  senescens. — Flowers  purple. 

A,  azureum.  —  Blue  flowers. 

A.  angulosum.  —  Liglit  purple  or  pink  flowers. 

A.  longiflorum. — Very  dark  purple. 

A.  NeapoUtanum. — A  fine  species,  with  a  large  umbel 
of  white  flowers.  Rather  tender,  and  requiring  green- 
house treatment.  There  are  many  tender  species,  with 
showy  flowers,  which  may  be  easily  grown  where  room 
can  be  eriven  them. 


176  THE    ORNITHOGALUM. 

THE    ORNITHOGALUM. 

A  family  of  very  pretty  bulbs,  containing  about  a 
dozen  hardy  and  some  fifty  tender  species,  all  familiarly 
known  as  "  star  of  Bethlehem."  The  prevailing  color 
of  the  flowers  is  white ;  but  many  are  marked  with 
green,  and  some  are  yellow.  The  hardy  species  require 
the  same  treatment  as  a  tulip,  but  may  be  left  in  the 
border  for  years  undisturbed.  They  will  then  flower 
regularly  every  year,  and  increase  largely  by  offsets. 

'The  tender  species  require  the  usual  treatment  of  Cape 
bulbs  ;  and,  in  the  greenhouse,  flower  from  May  to  July. 
These  plants  are  natives  of  Europe,  Africa,  and  America ; 
but  a  large  proportion  come  from  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope.     Among  hardy  species  we  may  mention 

0.  umheUatum.  —  This  pretty  species  is  very  common  in 
gardens.  The  flowers  are  silvery-white,  green  outside,  and 
open  only  in  sunshine.  They  are  produced  in  great  abun- 
dance, and  have  a  very  pleasing  effect.  The  species  multi- 
plies rapidly  by  offsets,  and,  having  escaped  from  gardens, 
seems  disposed  to  become  naturalized. 

0.  fimhriatum.  —  A  species  with  bluish-white  flowers, 
blooming  in  early  spring.     A  native  of  the  Crimea. 


THE    ORNITHOGALUM.  177 

0.  Narhonense.  —  A  small-flowered  aud  not  very  hand- 
some species,  the  blossoms  being  small  and  straggling : 
only  desirable  in  a  collection. 

0.  Pijrcnaicum.  —  A  green-flowered  species  of  little 
beauty. 

0,  nutans.  —  A  pretty  species,  with  drooping,  white 
flowers  ;  hardy  if  protected  by  leaves  during  the  winter. 

0.  pyramiclale.  —  A  fine  species,  with  a  spike  of  white 
flowers  in  June.  The  foliage  is  handsome,  and  appears 
very  early  in  spring,  followed  by  the  flower  in  June. 

0.  lidhiferum,  comosum,  montanum^  and  marginatum,  often 
prove  hardy.  Many  of  the  tender  species  are  very  beautiful, 
and  should  always  find  place  in  a  collection  of  Cape  bulbs. 

0.  niveum  has  small  snow-white  flowers  and  grassy  leaves. 

0.  revolutum.  —  An  elegant  species,  with  rich  foliage 
aud  showy  flowers,  which  are  white,  with  a  rich  yellow 
centre,  in  a  conical  raceme. 

0.  conjmhosum.  —  A  native  of  South  America,  with 
large,  white,  fragrant  flowers. 

0.  conicum.  —  Flowers  pure  white,  very  large;  native 
of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

0.  ladeuni. — A  fine  species,  producing  an  abundance  of 

rich  white  flowers. 
12 


178  THE   ORNITHOGALUM. 

0.  Arcibicum.  —  This  handsome  plant  is  not  uncommon 
in  collections.  The  flowers  are  large,  whitish,  with  a  dark 
centre.     It  requires  a  very  sandy  soil. 

0.  cmreum.  —  A  beautiful  species,  with  yellow  flowers, 
but  of  somewhat  difficult  culture ;  not  growing  freely  or 
flowering  well.  It  requires  sandy  loam,  but  often  remains 
dormant  two  years  before  sending  up  its  foliage. 

0.  thyrsoides. — A  fine  plant,  with  yellow  flowers,  some- 
wdmt  resembling  the  last,  but  of  very  much  easier  growth. 
The  plant  is  a  native  of  the  Cape,  and  only  requires  planting 
in  sandy  loam,  and  the  usual  culture  of  Cape  bulbs.  A  fine 
variety,  flavescens,  is  of  deeper  color ;  also  a  native  of  the 
Cape,  but  introduced  fifty  years  later  than  the  species. 

Many  of  the  ornithogalums  have  insignificant  flowers, 
and  are  not  worthy  the  room  they  would  occupy  in  the 
greenhouse. 

Most  of  the  species  have  the  property  of  continuing  to 
expand  their  flowers  when  the  spike  is  cut,  and  placed  in 
water,  sometimes  for  several  weeks,  which  renders  them 
valuable  for  parlor  decoration.  This  is  particularly  the 
case  with  0.  pyramidale,  0.  caudatum,  and  0.  sulphur eum. 


1\0M  the  latter  part  of  July,  and  during 
the  month  of  August,  up  to  the  time  of  the 
early  frosts,  the  bed  of  gladiolus  is  the 
most  showy  portion  of  the  flower-garden. 
But  all  these  which  we  commonly  grow  are  the  offspring 
of  two  or  three  species,  and  are  mostly  hybrids ;  being 
varieties,  and  not  species.  There  are,  however,  about  fifty 
distinct  species,  many  of  them  among  the  most  beautiful  of 
Cape  bulbs,  and  requiring  the  culture  usually  given  to  that 
class.  They  are,  however,  very  rarely  in  cultivation, 
though  the  reason  would  be  difficult  to  find ;  for  a  more 
siiowy  family,  or  one  of  easier  culture,  cannot  be  found 
among  bulbous  plants.  179 


180  THE  GLADIOLUS. 

There  are,  however,  two  gladiolus,  natives  of  Europe 
and  Asia,  which  are  hardy,  and  only  require  to  be  planted 
in  common  soil  in  the  bulb-border  about  two  inches  deep, 
where  they  will  flower,  if  undisturbed,  for  years,  and 
rapidly  increase  by  offsets. 

G.  communis.  —  A  native  of  the  south  of  Europe,  and 
very  common  in  gardens.  The  flowers  are  dull  reddish- 
purple,  produced  on  one  side  of  a  short  stalk.  The  plant 
is  perfectly  hardy,  and  increases  rapidly  by  offsets.  There 
are  varieties  with  white  and  flesh-colored  flowers,  which  are 
desirable.  While  a  clump  of  this  species  is  very  pretty,  the 
flowers  are  too  small  and  dull-colored  to  make  it  very  effec- 
tive in  the  garden.    Its  great  recommendation  is  its  hardiness. 

O,  Byzantium.  —  This  species,  as  its  name  implies,  is  a 
native  of  the  region  near  Constantinople.  The  flowers 
much  resemble  those  of  G.  communis^  but  are  larger,  are 
produced  on  both  sides  of  the  stalk,  and  have  yellow  stripes 
down  the  lower  petals.  The  species  is  hardy,  and  requires 
only  common  garden-culture,  but  does  not  increase  readily. 
Both  this  and  G.  communis  need  a  sunny  situation  to  bloom 
well. 

Of  other  fine  species,  many  of  which  are  hardy  in 
England,  but  with  us  are  grown  in  the  greenhouse,  bloom- 


THE   GLADIOLUS.  181 

iug  ill  June  aud  July,  we  may  enumerate  a  few ;  only 
premising,  that,  in  pot-culture,  the  gladiolus  requires  a 
rather  large  pot,  with  ligiit,  rich  soil,  good  drainage,  and 
plenty  of  water  when  in  growth,  with  frequent  syringings 
and  spongings  to  keep  off  the  red  spider,  which  particularly 
infests  this  plant.  The  bulbs  should  be  planted  at  least 
three  inches  deep,  if  of  large  size,  as  the  new  bulb  is  formed 
on  top  of  the  old  one  ;  and  the  plants  should  have  a  light, 
airy  position,  to  prevent  them  from  becoming  drawn. 

G.  cardinalis. — A  common  but  very  handsome  species, 
with  scarlet  flowers,  marked  with  a  white  spot  on  each  petal. 
From  this  species  many  fine  varieties  have  been  raised,  as  it 
hybridizes  freely  with  many  of  the  tender  kinds.  Both 
species  and  varieties  are  very  desirable. 

G.  cochleatus.  —  A  curious  species,  with  stiff  leaves,  and 
white  flowers  stained  with  red,  and  having  a  peculiarly  spoon- 
sha])cd  lip  ;  whence  the  name.  A  native  of  the  Cape,  flower- 
ing in  Marcli,  but  not  common. 

G.  versicolor.  —  A  showy  plant,  the  colors  of  which  are 
said  to  change  at  sunset.  It  is  a  native  of  the  Cape,  and 
ratlier  rare  in  collections. 

G.  suavolens.  —  A  pretty  species,  of  dwarf  gi'owth,  with 
pale-yellow,  fragrant  flowers. 


182  THE   GLADIOLUS. 

G,  recurvus,  —  A  very  ornamental  species,  with  violet 
flowers  tinged  Avitli  yellow,  and  very  fragrant.  The  stem 
produces  two  to  five  flowers,  "  which,  when  they  first 
expand,  are  yellow,  so  dotted  over  with  very  small  violet- 
blue  spots,  that  they  look  quite  blue  at  a  distance.  In 
this  state,  the  flowers  are  very  beautiful.  In  the  course 
of  two  or  three  days,  however,  the  dots  disappear,  and 
the  whole  flower  becomes  a  pale  and  somewhat  dull 
violet-blue." 

It  is  a  native  of  the  Cape,  and  was  first  grown  in  Eng- 
land in  1760,  being  raised  from  seed. 

G.  carneus.  — A  fine  species,  with  blush  flowers,  marked 
with  crimson  and  white. 

G.  hlandus.  —  A  species  resembling  the  last,  but  with 
white  flowers  slightly  stained  Avith  red. 

Many  fine  hybrids  have  been  produced  between  this  spe- 
cies and  G.  cardinalis. 

G.  alhidus.  —  A  fine  species,  with  flowers  nearly  pure 
white. 

G.  ramosus.  —  There  is  some  question  whether  this  plant 
is  a  hybrid  or  a  true  species.  The  plant  is  tall  and  of 
sturdy  growth,  producing  a  brandling  spike  of  rosy-red 
flowers,  the  inferior  petals  marked  with  darker  shades.     It 


THE   GLADIOLUS.  183 

sometimes  does  well  planted  out  in  the  spring,  but  is  infe- 
rior iu  beauty. to  tlie  fine  hybrids  of  G.  Ganclavensis. 

G.  concolor.  —  A  pretty  species,  -with  yellow  flowers, 
which  are  fragrant  towards  evening.  The  flowers  vary  in 
number  from  two  to  eight,  and  are  produced  on  the  same 
side  of  the  spike. 

G.  viperatus.  —  A  singular  plant,  with  greenish -gray 
flowers,  with  brown  and  dark  stripes.  The  species  is  very 
desirable  from  the  peculiar  color  and  the  fragrance  of  the 
flowers. 

G.  Colvelli. — A  fine  hybrid,  produced  in  1823  by  cross- 
ing G.  concolor  with  G.  cardinalis,  and  still  maintaining  its 
place  in  collections.  The  flowers  are  scarlet,  marked  with 
purple,  produced  on  a  close  spike,  and  are  fragrant.  It 
requires  the  same  treatment  as  its  parents. 

AVe  may  also  mention  as  desirable  G.  alatus^  Algoensis, 
and  Namaquensis  (sometimes  considered  varieties  of  ala- 
tus),  brevifoUus,  trichonemifoUus^tristis,  Watsonius,  recurvus, 
MlUerii,  gracilis,  edulis,  and  cuspidatus. 

All  these  could  probably  be  grown  in  this  country  under 
the  frame-culture  mentioned  in  Chapter  X.,  and  would 
well  repay  the  care  required.  Most  of  them  are  moder- 
ately hardy,  and  in  the  greenhouse  should  have  a  cool,  airy 


184  THE   GLADIOLUS. 

situation.  We  are  inclined  to  believe  that  careless  culture, 
rather  than  any  difficulty  of  a  more  serious  kind,  is  the 
reason  we  so  seldom  see  any  of  this  beautiful  class  in  col- 
lections. 

We  now  come  to  the  more  hardy  species,  for  which  we 
can  give  no  better  cultural  directions  than  are  laid  down  in 
an  article  written  by  us  a  year  ago  for  "  The  Horticultu- 
rist." 

Our  garden  gladiolus  are  mostly  hybrids  from  G.  Nata- 
lensis  and  G.  Jlorihimdus,  or  oppositiflorus^  with  a  little  of  the 
blood  of  G.  cardlnalis  and  ramosus  in  some  of  the  fine  vari- 
eties. They  are  commonly  known,  in  gardeners'  parlance, 
as  "  Gandavensis  hybrids,"  from  the  first  hybrid  raised, 
and  differ  much  in  habit  and  form  from  any  of  the  species 
we  have  before  described. 

The  name  Gladiolus,  from  the  Latin,  is  a  true  diminutive 
from  gladius,  "  a  sword,"  and  therefore  means  a  little  sword  : 
its  reference  is  to  the  shape  of  the  leaves  of  the  plant ; 
and  the  same  is  found  in  the  common  name,  "  sword  lily." 
The  name  is  generally  incorrectly  pronounced  gladiolus, 
with  the  accent  on  the  o.  Following  the  analogy  of  the 
Latin,  the  word  should  be  gladiolus,  the  accent  on  the  ^, 
leaving  the  penult  short ;  a  far  more  euphonious  word. 


THE   GLADIOLUS.  185 

Gladiolus  Jlorihundus^  or  oppositiflorus,  is  a  native  of  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  was  introduced  to  English  gardens 
about  the  year  1788.  It  is  a  well-known  species,  of  easiest 
culture,  and  will,  even  in  New  England,  sometimes  survive 
the  winter  in  the  open  ground.  Tiie  best  mode  is  to  take 
up  the  bulbs,  which  are  small,  soon  after  the  frost  has 
killed  the  leaves,  and  preserve  them  in  a  cool,  dry  cellar, 
free  from  frost,  until  spring.  The  flowers  are  produced 
abundantly  on  opposite  sides  of  the  stem  (whence  the 
names),  and  are  of  a  whitish  pink,  with  purple  or  lake 
markings. 

Gladiolus  Nafalensis,  or  psittacinus,  was  introduced  in 
1829.  It  is  a  plant  of  sturdy  habit,  flowers  scarlet  and 
yellow,  mottled  ;  too  well  known  to  need  particular  descrip- 
tion. Although  a  native  of  the  hot  region  of  Port  Natal,  it 
is  often  found  hardy  ;  and  in  England,  and  some  sections  of 
our  country,  is  perfectly  so  ;  the  bulb  requiring  only  to  be 
surrounded  by  sand  to  prevent  its  rotting  in  the  winter. 

"While  G.florihundus  is  still  commonly  cultivated,  G.  Na- 
talensis,  having  been  long  since  surpassed  in  habit  and 
color  by  hundreds  of  hybrids,  is  entirely  neglected,  and  is 
rarely  met  with ;  and  few  indeed  would  imagine  that  the 
introduction  of  this  now-despised  species    threw  the  whole 


186  THE   GLADIOLUS. 

horticultural  world  into  a  fever  of  excitement,  and  that  the 
bulbs  commanded  immense  prices. 

These  being  the  original  species,  the  first  hybrid  was  G. 
Gandavensis,  so  called  from  the  town  of  Ghent,  Its  origin  is 
obscure  ;  the  late  Hon.  and  Rev.  William  Herbert,  the  best 
authority  on  bulbs,  declaring  it  impossible  it  should  be  a 
hybrid  between  the  two  species  mentioned  above,  as,  with 
all  his  skill  in  hybridizing,  he  had  never  been  able  to  cross 
those  two  species. 

Be  this  as  it  may,  certain  it  is  that  to  G.  Gandavensis 
we  owe  all  our  fine  hybrids  ;  this  variety  crossing  freely 
with  all  other  varieties  and  some  of  the  species,  the  seed- 
lings sporting  very  much. 

The  color  of  the  flowers  of  the  variety  is  scarlet-red,  with 
deep  or  light  yellow  blotches  on  inferior  petals.  It  is  a 
showy  plant,  and,  although  excelled  by  hundreds  of  seed- 
lings, is  worthy  of  cultivation. 

GENERAL  TREATMENT. 

The  bulbs  should  be  planted  as  soon  as  the  ground  is 
fairly  dried  in  the  spring  and  all  danger  of  frost  is  over. 
If  deeply  planted,  a  surface-frost  does  no  injury.  Plantings 
may  be  made  every  two  weeks,  until  the  middle  of  June,  for 


THE   GLADIOLUS.  187 

a  succession  of  bloom.  Set  the  bulb  from  two  to  four 
inches  deep,  according  to  the  size  (we  have  found  deep  plant- 
ing advantageous  in  dry  seasons)  ;  and  cover  lightly  with 
pulverized  soil  free  from  stones,  pressing  it  gently  down 
with  tlie  palm  of  the  hand.  The  plants  will  appear  in 
about  ten  days,  and  only  require  to  be  kept  free  from  weeds  : 
a  light  hoeing  occasionally  is  beneficial  for  keeping  the 
ground  open,  and  allowing  air  and  moisture  to  penetrate. 
Do  not  water,  unless  in  very  severe  drought,  when  the  plants 
are  dying  (except  in  the  case  of  small  bulbs,  which  arc 
often  lost  by  drying  up).  Watering  tends  to  bring  both  new 
bulbs  and  roots  to  the  surface,  and  is  injurious. 

When  the  plants  are  about  four  inches  high,  they  should 
each  be  tied  to  a  neat,  light  stake,  which  should  be  of  sucli 
a  height  as  to  allow  the  whole  bloom  of  the  spike  to  project 
above  it :  two  feet  six  inches  is  a  good  length.  As  the  plant 
grows  and  the  flower-spike  pushes,  new  ties  should  be  given, 
as  much  danger  is  to  be  apprehended  from  violent  winds  or 
heavy  rains.  If  we  do  not  desire  to  save  seed,  Ave  should 
cut  off  the  flower-stalk  as  soon  as  the  bloom  is  past.  When 
the  frost  has  killed  the  leaves,  or  before,  if  the  leaves,  by 
turning  yellow,  show  the  ripening  of  the  bulb,  the  bulb 
should  be  taken  np,  dried  rapidly  in  full  sunlight,  the  new 


188  THE  GLADIOLUS. 

bulbs  separated  from  the  old,  and  the  flowering  bulbs  (the 
stalk  being  cut  off  about  an  inch  from  the  crown  of  the 
bulb)  and  the  bulblets  (which  on  some  varieties  are  plenti- 
fully produced)  put  up  in  paper-bags  carefully  labelled. 
During  the  winter,  the  bulbs  should  be  preserved  in  a  dry, 
cool  cellar  free  from  frost. 

SOIL. 

A  rich  light  soil  is  best  adapted  to  the  plant.  Our  prac- 
tice has  been  to  dig  into  the  beds  late  in  the  autumn  a  quan- 
tity of  well-rotted  (at  least  two  years')  manure  (cow-manure 
is  preferable  to  any  other)  ;  then  in  the  spring,  just  before 
planting,  dig  the  bed  again,  and  pulverize  the  soil  well.  In 
a  deep  clayey  loam  with  clay  subsoil,  the  plants  seldom  pro- 
duce fine  flowers.  A  gravel  subsoil  seems  to  suit  the  plant. 
Our  finest  beds  are  where  was  formerly  a  pitch-pine  wood. 

SEED. 

Most  of  the  hybrids  ripen  seed  freely ;  but  no  dependence 
can  be  placed  upon  its  producing  the  parent :  indeed,  for  it  to 
do  so  is  the  exception,  and  not  the  rule.  As  soon  as  the 
seed  is  ripe,  which  is  known  by  the  bursting  of  the  capsule, 
it  should  be  gathered,  and  may  at  once  be  sown  in  a  frame 


THE   GLADIOLUS.  189 

or  greenhouse,  or  carefully  dried  and  preserved  until  the 
spring.  The  seed  retains  its  germinating  property  about  a 
year. 

SEEDLINGS. 

Almost  every  seed  will  produce  a  plant.  If  sown  as  soon 
as  ripe,  say  in  September,  the  plants  soon  appear,  looking 
like  small  blades  of  grass  :  they  should  be  rapidly  grown  in 
heat.  About  the  first  of  March,  they  will  die  down :  rest 
should  be  given  them,  by  withholding  water,  until  about  the 
first  of  June.  The  little  bulblets,  which  will  be  about  the 
size  of  peas,  should  then  be  replanted,  in  boxes,  about  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  apart :  water  moderately.  They  will 
grow  all  summer,  dying  down  about  October :  give  a  rest 
until  January ;  then  repot,  an  inch  apart,  and  grow  until 
March  ;  rest  again  until  June ;  plant  in  beds  of  finely  pul- 
verized soil  in  the  open  air,  and  the  larger  proportion  will 
bloom  in  September. 

This  rapid  growth  can  be  attained  only  where  there  are 
greenhouse  facilities.  Ordinarily,  the  seed  is  sown  in  a  box 
or  pot,  set  in  a  frame  in  the  spring :  the  plants  die  down  in 
the  autumn  ;  are  wintered  in  the  box  in  the  cellar  ;  the  next 
spring,  are  planted  in  a  prepared  bed ;  and,  following  the 
same  process,  bloom  the  third  year. 


190  THE   GLADIOLUS. 


PRESERVATION    OF   VARIETIES. 


As  a  bulb  worth  five  dollars  cannot,  in  the  dry  state,  be 
distinguished  from  one  worth  five  cents,  great  care  must  be 
taken  to  preserve  varieties  true  to  the  name.  For  this,  the 
use  of  wooden  labels,  with  the  name  written  in  black-lead,  is 
to  be  discouraged,  as,  aside  from  the  danger  of  misplacing, 
the  name  is  often  rendered  illegible  by  the  weather.  We 
liave  as  yet  seen  no  better  way  than  our  own,  by  which  we 
have  preserved  some  hundreds  of  distinct  varieties  without 
a  mistake.  The  names  are  written  with  chemical  ink  on 
both  sides  of  a  zinc  label  (such  as  are  ordinarily  sold  for 
fruit-trees)  :  these  are  attached  to  chestnut-stakes  two  and  a 
half  feet  long,  pointed  at  the  lower  end,  and  bored  at  the 
upper  by  a  zinc  wire  (iron  rusts,  lead  is  too  pliable,  copper 
eats  the  zinc). 

In  planting,  we  set  the  stake  with  the  name  attached  when 
we  plant  the  bulb  :  as  the  plant  grows,  it  is  tied  to  the  stake  ; 
and,  in  autumn,  stake  and  bulb  come  up  together.  When 
the  bulb  is  dry  enough  to  bag,  the  name  from  the  stake  is 
first  written  on  the  bag  ;  then  the  bulb  is  cut  off,  cleaned,  and 
bagged,  the  stalk  thrown  away,  and  the  stake  put  away  for 
the  next  year.    All  this  takes  time,  and  is  troublesome  ;  bi\t 


THE   GLADIOLUS.  191 

the  satisfaction  of  knowing  that  all  varieties  are  true  to  the 
name  more  than  compensates.  If  this  mode  were  followed 
by  growers,  there  would  be  no  such  general  complaint  as  now 
exists,  of  poor  kinds  being  imposed  for  good  varieties.  Our 
experience  is,  that,  in  this  respect,  the  most  culpable  care- 
lessness prevails,  which  yearly  grows  worse  as  varieties 
increase. 

PROPAGATION    BY    CULBLETS. 

'\Ve  have  said  that  seeds  seldom  produce  the  parent :  how, 
then,  can  we  multiply  any  variety  in  quantity?  By  bulblets. 
When  we  take  up  the  bulb  in  the  autumn,  we  see  at  the  base 
of  the  root  more  or  less  numerous  bunches  of  black  or  white 
hard  bulbs,  varying  in  size  from  a  marble  to  a  mustard-seed. 
These,  if  we  can  get  them  to  grow,  produce  the  original 
variety.  Collect  these  carefully,  bag  and  label  them,  and 
lay  them  aside  for  eighteen  months  ;  then  sow  them  in  the 
open  border  in  a  prepared  bed  :  they  will  come  up  in  ten 
days  (not  one  will  fail),  and  form  bulbs  which  will  bloom  the 
next  summer.  If,  however,  you  plant  them  the  next  spring 
after  gathering  (instead  of  keeping  them  over  a  season),  not 
one  in  a  hundred  will  come  up. 


192  THE  GLADIOLUS. 

DISEASES   AND   ENEMIES. 

A  cold,  damp  soil,  causing  rot,  is  the  greatest  difficulty  in 
gladiolus  culture :  this  may  be  in  a  degree  remedied  by 
planting  the  bulb  in  sand.  Rust  is  a  disease  of  which  the 
cause  is  yet  unexplained :  the  whole  plant  turns  a  dirty 
spotted  yellow,  and  the  bulb  is  found  to  be  eaten  with  white 
spots.  As  soon  as  the  disease  is  observed,  dig  up  the  bulb, 
and  throw  it  away.  It  seems  more  prevalent  in  damp  soils, 
appearing  just  as  the  plant  shows  bloom.  A  green  cut- 
w^orm  often  eats  off  the  tender  shoots  in  early  spring :  the 
only  remedy  is  to  examine  the  base  of  each  shoot  at  night, 
and  kill  the  worm.  The  skin  covering  the  bulb  is  some- 
times infested  with  mealy-bug:  immediately  burn  every 
bulb  so  infested,  let  the  variety  be  choice  as  it  may. 

MULTIPLICATION    OF    VArJETIES. 

This  is  an  evil  which  will  soon  be  felt.  All  the  world  are 
raising  seedling  gladioli.  At  least  one-half  of  the  seedlings 
are  equal  to  or  better  than  old-named  varieties.  Each 
grower  names  his  favorites;  and  we  are  in  danger  of 
having  a  confusion  of  synonymes  which  will  rival  the 
palmiest  days  of  pear-culture.     How  this  can  be  remedied 


THE  GLADIOLUS.  193 

other  tlian  by  a  gladiolus  convention  is  an  interesting 
question. 

"We  have  said  our  native  seedlings  are  better  than 
named  varieties :  we  have  reason  to  rejoice  it  is  so,  and  we 
see  no  reason  for  importing  gladioli  when  we  can  raise  far 
better  varieties  than  we  can  import. 

The  following  are  some  of  the  finest  varieties  :  — 

El  Dorado,  Solfaterre,  Lord  Campbell,  Vulcain,  Pluton, 
La  Quintanie,  Rembrandt,  Madame  de  Vatry,  Goliah,  Ju- 
non,  Vesta,  Sulphureus,  Ilebe,  Penelope,  Calypso,  Madam 
Binder,  Mile.  Souchet,  Mrs.  Vilmorin,  La  Poussin,  Count 
de  Morny,  Achille,  Brenchleyensis,  Anatole  Levanueur, 
Imperatrice,  Ceres,  Princess  Clothilde,  Osiris,  Dr.  Lindley, 
Napoleon  III.,  Mars. 

The  following  varieties  are  very  poor,  and  not  worth 
growing,  except  for  massing  :  — 

Mons.  Georgeon,  Charles  Rouillard,  Madame  Pele,  Ma- 
dame Paillet,  Keteleerii,  Mrs.  Couder,  Gil  Bias,  Rosens, 
Isabella,  Burgraff  d'Osterland,  Mons.  Blouet,  Robert  Blum, 
Charles  Michel,  Dr.  Margolin. 

These  lists  might  be  infinitely  increased,  and  the  day  is 
not  far  distant  when  a  large  proportion  of  imported  varieties 
will  be  thrown  out  of  cultivation  by  American  seedlings. 

13 


194  THE   TIGRIDIA. 

THE   TIGRIDIA. 

This  is  a  beautiful  family,  consisting  of  only  two  species 
and  two  varieties.  The  plants  are  very  tender,  being 
natives  of  Mexico  ;  and  will  not  bear  the  least  frost.  They 
need  a  deep,  light,  rich  soil,  free  from  stones.  The  bulbs 
are  small,  but  in  growth  throw  down  a  fleshy  tap-root  to 
a  considerable  distance.  If  the  ground  is  not  naturally 
rich,  an  addition  of  well-rotted  stable-manure  will  add 
greatly  to  the  size  of  the  plant  and  the  brilliancy  of  the 
flower. 

The  bulbs  should  be  planted,  when  the  ground  gets  warm 
in  the  spring,  in  beds  or  clumps :  the  plants  will  soon  ap- 
pear, and  bloom  in  August  and  September.  After  the  frost 
has  killed  the  foliage,  the  bulbs  should  be  taken  up,  thor- 
oughly dried,  and  preserved  in  a  warm,  dry  cellar,  out  of 
the  way  of  mice,  until  time  for  planting. 

They  increase  rapidly  by  oflsets,  and  also  ripen  seed 
freely. 

The  flowers  are  very  brilliant,  but  transient,  lasting  only 
one  day ;  but  several  are  produced  from  the  same  stalk. 

T.  pavonia.  —  The  colors  are  bright  scarlet,  spotted  with 
yellow  and  brown.     Introduced  in  1796. 


THE  WATSONIA.  195 

T.  conchiflora.  —  Flowers  orange -yellow,  spotted  with 
brown  ;  not  so  strong  or  free-flowering  as  T,  pavonia. 

T.  speciosa  is  a  hybrid  between  these  two,  partaking  more 
of  the  nature  of  T.  pavonia^  and  of  a  dull,  red  color. 

T.  JVJieelerit  is  also  a  hybrid,  resembling  T.  conchiflora 
more  closely. 

The  plant  sometimes  seen  in  florists'  catalogues  under  the 
name  of  T.  coerulea  is  Phalocallis  plumbea. 

THE   WATSONIA. 

The  plants  composing  this  family  were  formerly  known 
as  gladiolus,  to  which  some  of  the  species  are  nearly  allied. 
They  are  rather  tall-growing  plants,  with  showy  flowers, 
and  of  easy  culture  in  light,  rich  soil.  In  England  they 
are  hardy,  and  receive  the  same  treatment  given  to  Cape 
gladioli.  With  us  they  require  a  greenhouse  and  the  usual 
culture  of  Cape  bulbs.  The  large-growing  species  should 
have  large  pots,  and  all  require  careful  attention  to  drain- 
age. They  propagate  freely  by  offsets,  and  also  ripen  seed. 
From  some  twenty-five  species  we  may  name 

W.  humilis.  —  A  dwarf  and  very  desirable  species,  with 
large,  rose-colored  flowers. 


196  THE   SYNNOTIA. 

W.  Iferiana.  —  A  beautiful  species,  with  dark,  flesh- 
colored  flowers. 

W.  fidgida.  —  A  tall-growing,  handsome  species,  with 
bright-red  flowers  ;  produced'  abundantly  in  September. 

W.  hrevifolia.  —  Flowers  bright  orange. 

W.  rosea.  —  Bright,  rosy  flowers  ;  a  tall,  handsome  plant. 

W.  marginata.  —  A  noble  species,  with  large,  salver- 
shaped,  pink  flowers.  A  native  of  low,  sandy  hills  at  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope,  where  it  is  very  abundant. 

W.  idundata^  i^lantarjinia^  and  spicata  are  singular  plants, 
with  flowers  having  little  resemblance  to  the  rest  of  the 
family. 

All  the  Watsonias  are  subject  to  the  attacks  of  red  spider, 
which  must  be  carefully  guarded  against.  All  are  hand- 
some, and  should  be  grown  where  there  is  room. 

THE    SYNNOTIA. 

A  family  of  only  three  species  of  Cape  bulbs,  of  easy 
culture  in  sandy  loam,  and  requiring  only  the  usual  culture 
of  Cape  bulbs  in  the  greenhouse.  They  are  not  handsome 
enough  to  be  generally  cultivated,  when  we  have  so  many 
more  showy  species.  The  flowers  somewhat  resemble 
gladiolus  in  appearance. 


THE    ANOMAinECA.  197 

S.  varlegata.  —  Flowers  dark  blue,  marked  with  yellow. 

S.  hicolor. — Flowers  bright  yellow,  with  the  superior 
petal  tipped  with  purple. 

S.  galatea  greatly  resembles  this. 

These  plants  are  also  classed  with  ixia  and  gladiolus^  and 
are  now  generally  referred  to  the  latter  family. 

THE   ANOMATHECA. 

One  of  the  most  sparkling  little  bulbs  for  house-culture. 
The  bulbs  are  small,  and  should  be  potted  in  November,  in 
sandy  loam :  during  the  winter  they  Avill  make  a  good 
growth  of  bright-green  foliage,  and,  beginning  to  bloom  in 
May,  Avill  produce  a  succession  of  brilliant,  scarlet-crimson 
flowers  all  summer.  The  plants  should  be  allowed  to  rest 
from  September  until  the  planting  season.  Propagated 
by  offsets,  which  are  freely  produced,  and  by  seeds 
which  bloom  the  second  year,  and  vegetate  without  any 
care. 

The  species  are,  — 

A.  cruenta.  —  Flowers  very  brilliant,  and  the  best  species. 
"We  have  grown  tliis  species  in  the  open  ground  ;  but  the 
flowers  are  so  small,  they  do  not  appear  as  well  as  in  a  pot. 


198 


THE    ANTHOLYZA. 


A  prettier  plant  for  summer  decoration  of  the  conservatory 
it  would  be  difficult  to  find. 

A.juncea.  — A  free-flowering  species,  with  pink  flowers, 
stained  with  a  dark  spot  at  the  base.     Very  pretty,  but  not 
so  showy  as  the  last. 


THE    ANTHOLYZA. 

A  tall-growing  family  of  Cape  bulbs,  usually  too  large  for 
greenhouse  culture,  and  not  hardy  enough  to  stand  our 
winters. 

The  flowers  are  large,  showy,  and  freely  produced.  The 
plants  are  of  easy  growth  under  the  ordinary  treatment 


THE   RIGIDELLA.  199 

given  to  Cape  bulbs,  and  propagate  readily  by  seeds  and 
offsets. 

The  principal  species  are,  — 

A.  JEthiopica.  —  Dark-red  flowers. 

A.  prcealata.  —  Yellowish-orange. 

A.  montana.  —  Brown,  fragrant  flowers.  There  are  other 
species  of  no  special  merit. 

A.  ciinonia,  qiLadr  angular  is  ^  and  splendens  are  sometimes 
called  Anisanthus. 

THE   RIGIDELLA. 

A  beautiful  family,  with  only  three  species,  of  which  R. 
flammea^  which  grows  about  three  feet  high,  with  broad- 
plaited  leaves,  is  the  best  known.  The  flowers  are  dark 
crimson,  very  handsome,  drooping ;  but  the  seed-pod  becomes 
erect  after  the  fading  of  the  flower. 

The  plant  is  of  easy  culture  in  rich,  light  soil,  and  should 
be  treated  like  a  tigridia.  It  is  a  native  of  Mexico,  and  was 
introduced  in  1838.  "We  have  bloomed  this  plant  very  suc- 
cessfully in  a  pot. 

The  other  species  are  R.  immaculata  and  orthantha,  and 
are  of  dwarfer  habit. 


y 


XIV. 

THE     AMARYLLIS,     HIPPEASTRUM,     SPREKELIA,     VALLOTA, 
LYCORIS,  PYROLIRION,  NERINE,  ZEPHYRANTHES. 


THE    AMARYLLIS. 

HILE  most  of  the  species  of  this  numerous 
family  are  greenhouse  bulbs,  and  tender, 
a  few  bloom  in  summer  in  the  garden. 
We  speak  popularly,  considering  all  the 
families  of  Hijppeastrum^  VaUota,  Spre- 
kelia,  as  Amaryllis,  to  which  family  they 
formerly  belonged  ;  but  the  more  recent 
classifications  have  left  but  few  true  ama- 

ryllis,  and  the  old  genus  has  been  separated  into  many  new 

families. 

The   mode   of  culture   to  be   pursued   with   the   tender 

species   is  given  at  length  in  a  recent  volume  of   "  The 

Cottage  Gardener,"  from  which  we  quote. 

200 


THE  AMARYLLIS.  201 

The  Hippeastrums  are,  Avith  few  exceptions,  natives  of 
the  tropics  ;  but,  owing  to  the  different  elevations  at  which 
they  are  found,  some  are  greenhouse  and  others  stove  plants. 
In  their  native  habitats  they  are  inured  to  a  period  of  almost 
continual  wet,  and  undergo  a  corresponding  period  of  dry- 
ness. The  heat  is  most  intense  when  the  plants  are  ripen- 
ing their  bulbs,  or  at  rest ;  and  least  when  making  their 
growth,  or  developing.  In  cultivation,  they  require  abun- 
dant moisture  and  nourishment  when  growing  ;  but,  after  the 
foliage  has  attained  to  full  size,  they  require  no  more  water 
than  just  sufficient  to  keep  the  leaves  from  flagging.  Per- 
fect drainage  must  be  secured.  The  soil  should  be  strong 
yellow  loam  and  sand.  Leaf-mould  and  other  vegetable 
matter  is  to  be  avoided.  Too  much  heat,  when  growing,  is 
injurious,  as  it  creates  drawn  foliage,  and  injures  the  bulbs. 
They  require  as  much  if  not  more  heat  when  at  rest  than 
when  growing  ;  and,  though  this  may  seem  the  reverse  of  good 
management,  it  is  only  what  they  receive  in  their  native 
habitats.  The  roots  remain  on  the  bulbs  throughout  the 
year :  taking  them  out  of  the  pots  when  at  rest,  therefore, 
robs  the  bulbs  of  that  which  Nature  has  supplied  to  collect 
food  for  the  support  of  the  flower-scape. 

The  practice  of  taking  tiie  bulbs  out  of  the  pots,  and  stor- 


202  THE    AMARYLLIS. 

iDg  them  near  the  flues  to  ripen  them,  is  faulty ;  for,  when 
potted,  the  bulbs  have  immediately  to  be  plunged  into  bot- 
tom-heat, that  new  roots  may  be  quickly  formed  to  support 
the  flower-stem,  as  otherwise  the  flowers  fail  to  expand. 

Deep,  narrow  pots,  eight  inches  in  depth,  and  double  the 
diameter  of  the  bulbs,  are  the  best  pots  to  grow  them  in. 

Frequent  potting  and  plenty  of  pot-room  are  not  neces- 
sary ;  and  potting  a  plant  because  the  pot  is  full  of  roots 
will  frequently  prevent  its  flowering.  The  pot  can  never 
be  too  full  of  roots,  as  the  bulbs  flower  all  the  better 
for  being  cramped :  and  as  long  as  the  drainage  is  per- 
fect, and  the  soil  is  sweet,  it  is  immaterial  how  long  the 
plants  are  kept  in  the  same  soil  and  pots  ;  only  the  oflsets 
should  be  removed  to  prevent  them  from  weakening  the 
parent. 

The  bulbs  should  be  potted  as  soon  as  received  in  a  com- 
post of  old,  turfy,  yellow  loam,  not  sifted,  but  lumpy ;  add 
to  this  one-sixth  of  sharp  sand,  and  in  this  pot  the  bulbs, 
the  neck  being  level  with  the  top  of  the  pot,  and  the  soil 
carefully  put  round  the  sides  and  pressed  gently  down,  leav- 
ing a  hollow  of  half  an  inch  at  the  top  of  the  pot  for  water- 
ing, the  bulb  being  covered  to  the  neck  with  soil.  Finish 
with  a  copious  watering. 


THE   AMARYLLIS.  203 

This  same  metliod  is  to  be  pursued  in  transplanting,  tak- 
ing care  not  to  injure  the  roots.  Perfect  drainage  must  be 
secured  both  in  potting  and  repotting. 

The  newly  received  bulbs,  having  been  potted,  should  be 
placed  in  a  hot-bed,  under  a  flue  or  any  dry  place  where 
the  temperature  will  vary  little  from  50°.  Let  them  remain 
for  about  six  weeks,  and  receive  no  water  after  potting  until 
the  leaves  appear.  They  should  then  be  plunged  into  a  hot 
bed  of  about  70°  temperature.  The  bulbs  wdll  soon  sliow 
the  leaves  and  flower-scape,  when  they  must  be  slightly 
watered,  gradually  increasing  the  quantity  as  growth  pro- 
gresses. 

In  a  few  weeks  the  plants  will  be  in  flower,  wdien  they 
may  be  removed  to  the  parlor  or  conservatory.  After  the 
bloom  is  over,  remove  them  to  the  greenhouse,  and  keep  them 
duly  supplied  with  water  and  liquid  manure  until  the  strong- 
est growth  is  attained,  which  will  be  in  July  if  the  bulbs 
have  been  potted  in  January,  which  is  the  most  suitable 
time.  Then  pUice  the  bulbs  on  a  shelf  near  the  glass,  in 
full  sun,  and  gradually  diminish  the  supply  of  water  so  as  to 
have  them  at  rest  by  the  beginning  of  October.  They  may 
then  be  stored  away  in  the  pots  near  the  flue  so  as  not  to 
roast  them,  and  no  more  water  be  given. 


204  THE   AMARYLLIS. 

Some  of  them  need  no  hot-bed  treatment ;  for  example, 
Sprekelia  (Amaryllis)  formosissimus,  the  well-known  Jaco- 
bean lily,  and  Hippeastrum  vittatum  :  these  do  well  in  ordi- 
nary greenhouse  treatment,  and  are  among  the  handsomest 
of  the  family.  The  great  rule  to  be  remembered  in  amaryl- 
lis-growing  is  never  to  water  the  bulbs  until  they  show 
signs  of  growth,  unless  they  are  plunged  in  bottom-heat, 
but  allow  them  a  natural  season  of  rest.  They  will  begin 
growing  when  they  are  ready ;  and  watering  before  the 
leaves  appear  helps  to  produce  decay  in  the  bulb,  and  de- 
stroys the  roots.  No  set  time  can  be  given  for  starting 
amaryllis  into  growth,  or  for  repotting  them.  The  bulbs 
do  not  all  start  into  growth  at  once,  nor  do  all  grow  equally. 
Some  are  late,  some  are  early ;  but,  when  the  leaves  cease 
to  elongate,  the  growth  has  been  made.  In  general,  the 
plants  start  into  growth  in  January,  and  attain  their  full 
growth,  and  need  repotting,  in  July ;  but  they  never  need 
potting  while  the  drainage  is  perfect  and  the  soil  is  sweet. 
After  potting,  the  plants  should  be  kept  on  a  shady  shelf 
for  a  few  days,  to  recover  from  the  check  produced  by  the 
operation :  they  may  then  be  removed  to  the  shelf  in  the 
greenhouse,  near  the  glass,  and  treated  as  before  directed. 
The  care  to  be  taken  is  that  the  green  foliage  does  not  flag 


THE   AMARYLLIS.  205 

for  want  of  water.  Any  bulbs  which  seem  disposed  to 
remain  evergreen  should  not  be  forced  into  rest  by  with- 
holding water  ;  but  just  enough  should  be  given,  and  very 
little  will  be  required,  to  prevent  the  leaves  from  flag- 
ging- 

The  temperature  from  January  to  June  should  be  5o°  to 
C0°,  and,  if  plenty  of  air  is  given,  may  rise  from  75°  to  80° 
in  the  sun.  From  June  to  October,  from  G0°  to  G5°,  and 
rising  from  80°  to  90°,  will  do  no  harm.  From  October  to 
January,  a  dry  atmosphere,  never  below  50°,  or  exceeding 
G0°,  suits  them. 

It  not  unfrequently  happens,  when  the  growth  is  made 
early,  say  by  May,  and  water  gradually  withheld  after 
tliat  time,  that  the  plants  will  rest  at  midsummer,  lose  a 
number  of  leaves,  and  give  a  fine  bloom  in  autumn,  in 
addition  to  flowering  in  spring.  Any  bulbs  Avhich  seem 
disposed  to  rest  at  midsummer  should  be  encouraged  to  do 
so,  and  water  withlield,  as  continued  waterings  would  only 
produce  a  weak  second  growth. 

Plants  flowering  twice  will  make  a  second  growth  after 
the  second  flowering,  which  must  be  well  supported  by 
waterings  of  liquid  manure,  and  abundance  of  water,  until 
perfected ;    when    the   bulbs   may  be   dried   off",   as   before 


206  THE   AMARYLLIS. 

directed.  This  treatment  is  proper  for  most  of  the  family. 
Any  peculiar  mode  of  culture  required  by  any  species  will 
be  noticed  in  the  description  of  that  species. 

Seed  may  be  sown,  as  soon  as  it  is  ripe,  in  a  mixture  of 
dry  loam  and  leaf-mould.  Place  a  seed  in  the  centre  of  a 
very  small  pot,  and  just  cover  it  with  sand.  If  the  sowing 
is  in  spring,  or  before  June,  place  in  a  hot-bed,  with  a  heat 
of  70°,  and  keep  moderately  moist.  When  the  seedlings 
appear  above  the  soil,  water  more  abundantly,  and  keep 
them  growing  as  long  as  they  seem  disposed.  They  may 
be  kept  evergreen  for  a  couple  of  years,  allowing  only  a 
season  of  rest  by  giving  less  waler  when  they  seem  least 
disposed  to  grow.  After  the  second  season,  they  should  be 
treated  as  old  plants  ;  and  the  greater  part  will  flower  the 
third  year.  Seed  sown  in  autumn  should  be  kept  on  a  dry 
shelf  until  spring,  and  then  started  into  growth  in  heat,  as 
above. 

The  following  are  species  :  — 

Hippeastrum  aulicum.  —  Green  and  scarlet ;  Brazil. 

S.  aulicum platypetalum,  —  Orange;  Brazil . 

S.  aulicum  glaucophyllum.  —  Crimson  and  green  ;  Brazil. 

IT.  psitticinum.  —  Green  and  red  ;  Brazil. 

H.  solajidrceflorum.  —  White  ;  Guiana. 


THE   AMARYLLIS.  207 

Var.  ruhro-striatum.  —  "White  and  red. 

Y ar.  purjnirasceiis.  —  White  and  purple. 

H.  calyptratum.  —  Green  and  red  ;  Brazil. 

H.  stylosum.  —  Coppery  orange. 

H.  regince.  —  Scarlet  and  green. 

H.  reticulatmn.  —  Purplish-red;  Brazil. 

Var.  striatlfoUum.  —  Purple  ;  Brazil. 

H.  crocatum.  —  Saffron  ;  Brazil. 

H.  equestre.  —  Scarlet ;  AYest  Indies. 

Var.  major.  —  Scarlet ;  AYest  Indies. 

Var.  plenum.  —  Scarlet ;  West  Indies. 

M.  fulgidum.  —  Orange-scarlet;  Brazil. 

S.  ignescens. — Bright  orange. 

H.  rutilum.  —  Scarlet. 

S.  vittatum.  —  White  and  red,  striped  ;  Cape  of  Good 
Hope. 

Var.  majus.  —  White  and  red,  striped;  Cape  of  Good 
Hope. 

H.  amhiguum  longlflorum.  —  White  and  red  ;  Lima. 

H.  anomalum.  —  Crimson  and  green. 

H.  Organense.  —  Crimson  and  white  ;  Brazil. 

H.  pulverulentum.  —  Orange  ;  Brazil. 

H.  princeps.  —  Scarlet ;  Brazil. 


208  THE   AMARYLLIS. 

The  following  are  fine  hybrid  varieties  :  — 

H.  Ackermanni.  —  Crimson,  two  flowers  on  a  scape.  The 
variety  pulcherrima  has  larger  flowers,  and  four  on  a  scape. 

H.  Johnso7ii.  —  Scarlet  and  white,  a  cross  between  regi- 
nce  and  vittatum.     The  variety  striata  has  clearer  stripes. 

H.  hrilliant.  —  Scarlet. 

H.  delicata.  —  A  stripe  down  centre  of  the  leaf ;  flowers 
scarlet  and  white. 

I{.  Cleopatra.  —  Dark  red,  edged  with  white. 

H.  marginata  conspicua.  —  White,  with  crimson  stripes  ; 
one  of  the  best. 

ff.  Prince  of  Orange.  ■ —  Bright  orange. 

H.  ignea.  —  Brilliant  scarlet. 

H.  crocea  grandiflora.  —  Orange-scarlet,  marked  with 
white. 

Amaryllis  Belladonna.  —  This  exquisite  species  is  a 
native  of  the  Cape.  Its  culture  is  very  easy,  if  care  be 
taken  to  grow  the  foliage  well.  It  thrives  well  under  the 
general  treatment  given  above  ;  but  will  also  bloom  in  the 
border  in  the  summer,  if  planted  in  June.  The  lovely  spike 
of  flowers  shoots  up  in  August,  followed  by  the  leaves.  As, 
however,  the  foliage  has  no  time  to  ripen  before  cut  down 
by  the  frost,  it  is  well  to  plunge  it  in  the  border  in  a  pot ; 


THE   SPREKELIA.  —  THE   VALLOTA.  209 

and,  before  the  first  frost,  remove  the^pot  to  the  greenhouse 
to  mature  the  leaves,  as,  otherwise,  the  bulb  will  not  flower 
the  second  year. 

A.  Iflanda.  —  A  finer  and  larger  species,  but  more  tender, 
requiring  greenhouse  culture,  as  we  have  directed  above. 
Flowers  delicate  blush-white  ;  a  native  of  the  Cape. 

A.  pallida  and  latlfolia  are  varieties  of  A.  Belladonna, 

THE    SPREKELIA. 

Sprehelia  {Amaryllw)  formosissimus. — A  lovely  species, 
very  different  in  form  from  the  remainder  of  the  family. 
The  fl'jwers  are  most  brilliant  scarlet,  and  are  produced 
before  the  leaves.  The  bulbs  of  this  species  may  be  planted 
in  the  open  border  in  May.  They  will  bloom  in  June,  and 
before  October  ripen  their  growth  ;  when  they  may  be  taken 
up,  and  hung  up  in  a  frost-proof,  dry  cellar,  until  spring. 
They  may  also  be  grown  in  pots,  in  water,  or  in  moss. 
The  plant  is  generally  known  as  Jacobean  lily. 

THE   VALLOTA. 

Vallota  (amarijlUs)  purpurea.  —  This  species  is  evergreen  ; 
and,  as  its  flowers  and  leaves  are  seen  together,  it  is  one  of 
the  most  ornamental  plants  of  the  family.     It  is  a  native 

14 


210  THE   LYCORIS.  —  THE   PYROLIRION. 

of  the  Cape,  and  is  found  in  wet  situations.  The  plants 
grow  freely  in  sandy  peat  and  leaf-moidd,  and  require 
plenty  of  water.  The  offsets  are  produced  so  freely  as 
almost  to  choke  the  parent  plant.  The  flowers  are  brilliant 
scarlet,  and  are  produced  in  great  profusion  in  summer. 
The  usual  treatment  is  to  grow  the  bulb  all  the  time,  only 
giving  rather  less  water  in  winter. 

This  species  is  very  common,  and  not  unfrequently  seen 
growing  in  old  bowls  and  pitchers  in  cottage-windows. 

THE    LYCORIS. 

A  very  pretty  family,  nearly  allied  to  Nerine,  but  natives 
of  China.     All  the  species  grow  well  in  light,  sandy  soil. 

L.  aurea  has  bright-yellow  flowers  in  August. 

L.  radiata  has  dingy-pink  flowers  in  June,  and  is  a  shy 
bloomer. 

L.  stmminea  has  striped  flowers  in  June. 

All  need  greenhouse  culture,  and  to  be  treated  like  Cape 
bulbs. 

THE    PYROLIRION. 

A  family  of  two  species  of  rare  bulbs,  with  tubular  flow- 
ers, resembling  zephyranthes  ;  natives  of  Peru  ;  flowering  in 
summer  before  the  leaves  are  fully  grown,  and  requiring 


THE   NERIXE.  211 

rest  from  December  to  April.     Soil,  a  sandy  loam  autl  leaf- 
mould. 

Tlie  species  are  P.  aurcum  and  flavum,  with  oraugc  aud 
yellow  flowers  respectively. 

THE    NERINE. 

The  freneral  rule  in  tlie  p-owth  of  this  spk'iidid  genus  is 
briefly  hiid  down  l)y  ]Mr.  Herbert  :  ''  To  promote  the  flower- 
ing of  the  nerines,  a  vigorous  growth  of  leaf  must  be  encour- 
aged in  the  autumn  :  the  requisites  are  warmth  enough  to 
excite  them,  and  air  enough  to  prevent  their  growing  weak. 
During  the  winter,  they  must  not  be  allowed  to  lose  their 
foliage  either  by  frost  or  drought.  About  May,  they  should 
be  allowed  to  rest  by  ceasing  to  water  them.  After  about 
three  months'  rest,  they  may  be  watered  again  to  promote 
tlieir  growth  at  the  very  beginning  of  September."  ^Vheu 
we  add  to  tliis,  tliat  all  the  species  require  a  light,  sandy 
soil,  we  have  given  full  directions  for  the  culture  of  the 
uerine. 

The  flowers  of  many  of  the  species  arc  very  beautiful ;  but 
many  liavc  the  fault  of  blooming  before  the  leaves. 

Most   are   natives  of  the  Cape  ;    but    the   Guernsey  lily 


212  THE   NEEINE. 

comes  from  Japan  originally,  and  N,  undulata  from 
China. 

None  of  the  species  are  hardy  with  us,  but  require  green- 
house protection. 

N.  sarniensis.  —  This  is  the  Guernsey  lily  so  common  in 
England,  producing  its  heads  of  red  flowers  before  the 
leaves.  The  bulbs  are  usually  imported,  just  as  they  are 
coming  into  bloom,  from  the  Isle  of  Guernsey,  where  they 
are  grown  in  great  quantities. 

By  growing  the  foliage  well,  the  bulb  will  flower  again  in 
a  year  or  two  ;  but,  in  England,  it  is  generally  thrown  away 
after  blooming. 

N.  rosea.  —  A  fine  species,  with  pink  flowers. 

N.  curvifolia.  —  A  fine  plant,  with  brilliant  scarlet  flow- 
ers. This  species  flowers  freely,  and  may  be  forced  into 
bloom  any  month  in  the  year,  although  it  naturally  blooms 
in  September. 

N.  corusca.  —  A  species  producing  large  heads  of  salmon- 
colored  flowers,  but  not  very  free-flowering. 

N.  venusta. — A  species  much  resembling  N.  sarniensis, 
but  producing  leaves  and  flowers  at  the  same  time,  and 
blooming  earlier  than  other  species. 

N.  flexuosa.  —  A  species  with  pink  flowers. 


THE  ZEPHYRANTHES. 


213 


N.  Jiumilis.  —  A  species  with  piuk  flowers  and  of  low 
growth. 

All  the  species,  of  which  there  are  ten,  deserve  more  atten- 
tion than  they  receive  from  amateurs.  They  seed  freely,  and 
cross  with  each  other ;  but  hybrids  have  not  been  produced 
between  them  and  any  other  of  the  Amaryllis  family. 


TnE    ZEPHYRANTHES. 


A  pretty  genus,  of  which  some  species  are   common  in 
greenhouses.     The  flowers  are  delicately  colored,  and  pro- 


214  THE   ZEPHYR ANTHES. 

duced  one  on  a  stem,  but  in  great  profusion.  A  turfy  loam, 
mixed  with  a  half  of  pure  sand,  will  grow  them  well. 
They  flower  during  the  summer,  and  may  be  dried  off  in 
winter  by  being  placed  on  a  shelf  under  the  stage. 

They  increase  rapidly  by  offsets,  and  in  time  will  so  fill 
the  pot  as  to  burst  it  to  pieces. 

There  are  ten  species,  of  which  the  most  common  are 

Z.  rosea.  —  A  native  of  Cuba,  very  ornamental  from  the 
profusion  of  rosy  flowers  produced  all  summer. 

Z.  Atamasco.  —  A  lovely  species;  a  native  of  Virginia, 
where  it  is  called  the  Atamasco  lily,  producing  rosy  flow- 
ers, which,  with  age,  turn  to  pure  white,  in  spring. 

Z.  Candida.  —  A  species  wdth  white  flowers,  much  re- 
sembling a  white  crocus.  The  leaves  are  flat  and  fleshy,  and 
both  leaves  and  flowers  are  very  showy. 

It  is  a  native  of  Buenos  Ayres,  blooming  with  us  all 
summer. 

The  other  species,  of  which  Ave  may  mention  Z.  carinata, 
verecunda,  tuhesjxitha,  and  mesochloa,  are  all  pretty. 


XV. 

THE    TUBEROSE,    CYCLAMEN,    DAHLIA,    COMMELINA,   AND 
VARIOUS   TUBERS. 

THE    TUBEROSE. 

IIILE  generally  called  a  bulb,  the 
tuberose  is  properly  a  tuber  ;  but 
this  and  some  other  plants  of 
similar  nature  may  well  find  a 
place  in  the  present  volume. 

Tliere  are  two  species  of  tuberose,  —  that  commonly  grown, 
PoUanthes  tuherosa,  a  native  of  the  East  Indies,  and  its 
double  variety,  much  more  common  but  no  handsomer  than 
the  single  ;  and  P.  gracilis,  a  native  of  Brazil,  with  light 
yellow  flowers. 

The  whole  secret  of  blooming  the  tuberose  successfully  is 
in  giving  the  roots  plenty  to  feed  upon,  and  in  keeping  them 

215 


216  THE   TUBEROSE. 

warm.  The  ordinary  culture  keeps  the  tops  warm,  and  is 
successful  in  producing  a  great  amount  of  foliage. 

The  tuberose  of  the  garden  is  a  native  of  the  East  Indies, 
and  was  introduced  about  1630.  Our  dried  roots  are  an- 
nually imported  from  Italy,  where  they  are  grown  in  great 
quantities  for  exportation.  The  day  is  probably  not  far 
distant  when  we  shall  be  able  to  grow  tuberoses  in  this 
country  :  the  experiment  has  been  successfully  tried  in  New 
Jersey,  and  bulbs  quite  as  good  as  any  imported  have  been 
produced,  some  of  which  are  now  flowering  finely  in  our 
garden,  with  as  stout  spikes  and  as  large  flowers  as  the 
imported  bulbs  beside  them. 

The  bulbs  for  blooming  should  be  carefully  selected ; 
those  being  chosen  which  are  full  and  plump,  and  with  a 
sound  heart.  Pot  them  in  eight-inch  pots,  singly,  in  a  com- 
post of  well-rotted  manure  or  the  remnants  of  an  old  hot- 
bed, sandy  peat  and  loam  or  leaf-mould,  with  a  little  char- 
coal dust ;  leaving  only  the  crown  of  the  bulb  above  the  soil. 
Before  filling  in  the  compost,  place  a  crock  over  the  hole  on 
the  bottom  of  the  pot,  and  crumble  it  quarter  full  of  old 
cow-droppings  which  have  been  exposed  to  the  winter  in 
the  pasture. 

All   offsets    should    be    removed    previous   to   planting. 


THE   TUBEROSE.  217 

Plunge  the  pots  to  their  rims  in  a  hotbed ;  and,  having 
given  a  good  watering,  cover  up  the  frames  with  the  sash, 
and  cover  the  sash  with  a  shutter.  Examine  them  daily  to 
see  that  the  heat  is  not  too  violent ;  75°  to  80°  is  sufficient : 
but  they  will  not  need  any  water  until  they  begin  to  grow, 
which  will  be  in  a  few  days.  After  they  are  fairly  in 
growth,  remove  the  lights  in  fine  weather,  and  give  all  the 
sun  and  air  possible  ;  but,  in  cold  or  frosty  weather,  keep 
the  sashes  on. 

The  first  planting  should  be  about  the  middle  of  April ; 
and  plantings  may  be  made  for  succession,  at  intervals  of  a 
fortnight,  up  to  the  first  of  June.  As  the  plants  grow, 
increase  the  water ;  and,  as  summer  advances,  remove  the 
sashes  entirely :  the  object  is  to  get  as  sturdy  a  growth  as 
possible.  There  is  no  danger  that  a  tuberose  will  not  be  tall 
enough.  Keep  them  in  the  pots,  and  keep  the  pots  together 
in  the  hotbed,  until  the  spikes  begin  to  expand  their 
flowers,  when  the  pots  may  be  removed  to  the  piazza  or 
parlor,  or  plunged  in  the  garden. 

In  choosing  the  position  for  the  hotbed,  let  it  be  in  full 
sunshine,  and  in  the  hottest  possible  place.  If  you  supply 
plenty  of  Avater,  you  cannot  get  a  situation  too  hot ;  but  the 
pots  must  always  be  shaded  from  the  sun,  which,  if  kept  in 


218  THE  CYCLAMEN. 

the  hotbed,  they  are  sure  to  be.  By  pursuing  this  treat- 
ment, tlie  flowers  will  begin  to  expand  about  the  middle  of 
July,  and  continue  until  the  first  of  November,  or  later, 
if  housed  on  the  approach  of  frosty  weather.  The  foliage 
of  the  plant,  if  propagation  is  an  object,  should  never  be 
touched  by  the  frost ;  and,  in  winter,  the  bulbs  should  be  kept 
in  a  warm,  dry  cellar.  Propagation  is  effected  by  means 
of  offsets,  which  are  freely  produced,  and  should  be  planted 
in  spring,  in  rich,  light  soil,  in  a  sunny  exposure.  Flowers 
may  be  expected  from  them  the  third  year. 

THE    CYCLAMEN. 

There  is  no  more  ornamental  plant  for  greenhouse  or 
parlor  culture  than  the  cyclamen.  It  grows  readily,  flowers 
freely  ;  the  foliage  is  neat,  the  flowers  handsome,  and  last 
long  in  perfection ;  and,  with  all  these  merits,  it  has  no 
faults.  From  being  long  utterly  neglected,  the  cyclamen 
has  recently  attracted  much  attention  in  England :  fine  new 
hybrids  have  been  produced,  and  the  horticultural  journals 
have  been  filled  with  reports  of  cyclamen  culture. 

The  cyclamen  thrives  well  in  a  soil  composed  of  equal 
parts  of  turfy  loam,  peat,  leaf-mould,  and  silver-sand,  well 


THE   CYCLAMEN.  219 

mixed  together,  and  not  sifted.  The  ftutumu-hlooming 
species,  such  as  EurojKeiun,  shoukl  be  potted  in  August ; 
the  winter-flowering,  in  September  or  October.  The  pots 
used  shoukl  be  three  times  the  diameter  of  the  bulb,  well 
drained,  and  filled  with  the  compost ;  so  that  the  crown  of 
the  bulb,  when  planted,  Avill  be  level  with  the  rim  of  the 
pot,  leaving  about  half  an  inch  all  around  for  watering. 
Water  slightly,  to  settle  the  soil ;  and  plunge  the  pots  in 
coal-ashes,  in  a  cold  frame,  shading  from  the  sun.  Keep 
them  thus,  with  but  little  water,  till  growth  begins  ;  then 
give  more  w^ater,  and  plenty  of  light  and  air,  covering  them 
carefully  when  the  nights  become  cold.  They  may  be 
grown  in  frames  until  the  approach  of  very  cold  Aveather, 
when  they  may  be  removed  to  the  parlor  or  to  the  green- 
house ;  in  either  case,  being  placed  in  situations  where  they 
may  receive  all  possible  supplies  of  light  and  air,  and  very 
near  the  glass.  The  temperature  should  not  be  much 
higher  than  50°  until  they  begin  to  bloom ;  the  secret  of 
cyclamen  culture  being  light,  air,  and  a  low  temperature. 
In  England,  they  are  kept  in  frames  all  winter,  being  only 
removed  to  the  liouse  when  about  to  bloom  ;  but  the  severity 
of  our  winters  would  probably  render  such  culture  unsuc- 
cessful in  New  England,  as  the  plants  might  damp  off  when 


220  THE   CYCLAMEN. 

shut  np  for  many  days  in  succession,  as  they  might  be  dur- 
ing a  continuance  of  cold  weather.  When  the  foliage 
begins  to  decay,  water  should  be  withheld,  and  discontinued 
altogether  after  a  few  weeks.  The  pots  may  then  be  placed 
in  a  cool,  dry  situation,  out  of  direct  sunshine,  where  they 
can  have  pure  air  ;  but  the  soil  should  never  be  allowed  to 
become  dry  as  dust,  or  the  bulb  to  shrivel.  Some  culti- 
vators bury  the  bulb  in  the  pot  in  the  open  ground  ;  and, 
when  uncovered  in  the  autumn,  the  bulb  is  plump  and 
fresh. 

The  cyclamen  is  propagated  by  seed.  The  root  is  a 
solid  corm,  and  cannot  be  successfully  divided ;  and  the 
plants  sometimes  obtained  by  taking  off  the  little  crowns 
of  old  bulbs  are  seldom  strong  and  healthy.  The  seed 
should  be  gathered  as  soon  as  ripe,  dried,  and  sown  in 
February,  in  shallow  pots  or  pans,  rather  thinly,  in  a  com- 
post of  peat,  loam,  and  sand,  and  the  pans  be  placed  in  a 
cold  frame,  or  on  a  shelf  in  the  greenhouse,  near  the  glass. 
The  plants  soon  appear,  and  make  a  leaf  and  a  bulb  as 
large  as  a  small  pea  the  first  year.  In  spring,  turn  them 
out  of  the  pots  into  a  shady  place  in  the  garden,  and  let 
them  remain  until  September.  Then  pot  each  separately  in 
small  pots,  in  a  compost  of  turfy  loam,  leaf-mould,  and 


THE   CYCLAMEN.  221 

silver-sand,  placing  the  little  bnlb  abont  half  above  the  soil. 
Place  the  pots  on  a  light,  airy  shelf  in  the  greenhouse, 
watering  moderately  during  the  winter,  and  taking  care 
tliat  the  soil  does  not  become  sodden.  Continue  this  culture 
year  by  year,  accommodating  the  size  of  the  pots  to  that 
of  the  bulbs.     Seedlings  bloom  the  third  year. 

C.  coum.  —  Leaves  bright  green,  with  red  on  the  under- 
side ;  flowers  bright  red,  produced  external  to  the  leaves, 
to  which  they  form  a  margin.  A  native  of  the  south  of 
Europe,  blooming  in  February  and  March,  but  sometimes 
earlier.     It  has  no  fragrance. 

G.  Neapolitanum.  —  Flowers  red,  or  rosy  pink,  blooming 
from  October  to  Christmas,  and  succeeded  by  the  foliage. 
It  goes  to  rest  in  April  and  May.  A  variety,  alhum^  has 
white  flowers.     Neither  is  fragrant. 

G.  Eurnpceum.  —  A  species  with  very  variable  foliage. 
The  leaves  are  heart-shaped,  sometimes  roundish,  but  never 
as  round  as  C.  coum ;  sometimes  beautifully  marbled.  In 
one  variety  they  are  very  large,  and  the  plant  is  almost  an 
evergreen  and  continuous  blooming.  The  bulbs  are  knotty 
and  irregular,  but  sometimes  round,  smooth,  and  flat.  The 
flowers  are  red,  rose,  or  pure  white,  deliciously  fragrant,  and 
produced  in  August. 


222  THE    CYCLAMEN. 

C.  repandum.  —  This  species  resembles  C.  NcapoUtanum^ 
but  blooms  in  spring,  showing  bright  rose-flowers  in  April. 
It  blooms  later  than  any  other  species. 

G.  vernum.  —  This  species  resembles  G.  coum,  but  is 
larger  in  every  way  :  the  flowers  have  a  decided  purple 
shade,  and  the  leaves  a  white  marking.  It  blooms  in 
November,  and  continues  in  bloom  until  February  or 
March. 

G.  AtJdnsi.  —  A  hybrid,  between  G.  coum  and  G.  Per- 
sicum.  The  leaves  are  large,  often  two  and  a  half  to 
three  inches  by  two  to  two  and  a  half  inches  ;  deep,  glossy- 
green,  with  a  pale  zone  within  the  margin  ;  the  under-side  a 
dull  reddish-purple.  The  flowers  are  white,  with  crimson 
eye :  there  are  many  varieties  of  all  shades  of  white  and 
red.  The  flowers  expand  from  January  to  April,  and  are 
scentless. 

G.  Africaniim  is  G.  Neapolitanum,  with  larger  foliage. 

G.  Ibericum  has  flat,  heart-shaped  leaves,  deep  green, 
with  gray  band,  and  reddish-purple  underneath.  Flowers 
pale  rose,  with  a  tinge  of  purple,  with  deep  crimson  spot  at 
base  of  the  segments,  extending  through  to  the  mouth. 
Blooms  in  November,  or  through  the  winter,  according  to 
treatment. 


THE    CYCLAMEN.  223 

C.  Persicum.  —  Leaves  variously  heavt-sliaped,  toothed 
at  the  edge  ;  deep  green,  with  gray  or  white  marbling,  and 
pale  flesh-color  on  the  under-side.  Flowers  on  tall  stalks, 
white,  blotched  with  crimson  at  the  base,  petals  very  long. 
It  flowers  in  autumn,  winter,  or  spring,  according  to  treat- 
ment.    The  varieties  are,  — 

C.  Fcrsicum  ruhnun.  — Purplish  crimson. 

C.  Persicum  purpureum.  —  Purplish  red. 

C.  Persicum  stellatum. — AYliite,  with  starry  spots  on  each 
petal. 

C.  Persicum  delicatum.  — White,  pink  centre. 

C.  Persicum  alhum.  —  Pure  white. 

C.  Persicum  rosewm.  —  Rosy  red. 

C.  Persicum  roseum  coccineum.  —  Rose,  scarlet  centre. 

C.  Persicum  odoratum. — White,  rose-eye,  fragrant. 

C.  Persicum  odoratum  ruhrum.  —  Rosy  red,  fragrant. 

C.  Persicum  stricdum. —  Striped  and  spotted  rose,  on  white 
ground. 

C  Persicum  margincdum.  —  Shaded  rose. 

There  are  many  other  varieties,  as  seedlings  vary  very 
much  ;  but  those  above  given  are  the  most  distinct.  The 
above    list   has   been   condensed   from   a  carefully  written 


224  THE   DAHLIA. 

article  in   an  English  magazine,  which  is  the  most  satis- 
factory statement  of  species  we  have  seen. 

The  frame  culture  of  cyclamen  is  worth  a  trial  in  this 
country.  How  charming  it  would  be,  if,  as  in  England,  we 
could  grow  cyclamen  like  Neapolitan  violets ! 

THE    DAHLIA. 

This  is  still  in  England  one  of  the  most  popular  j3orists* 
flowers,  though  in  this  country  the  hollyhock  and  gladiolus 
have  drawn  away  many  of  its  admirers.  The  plant  is  a 
native  of  Mexico  ;  and  the  original  species,  which  are  single- 
rayed  flowers,  were  introduced  into  cultivation  about  the 
beginning  of  the  present  century. 

These  are,  however,  long  lost  to  cultivation,  unless  they 
exist  in  botanic  gardens  ;  and  indeed,  though  rather  pretty 
and  curious,  are  not,  as  species,  especially  desirable.  The 
chief  species  are  D»  scapigera,  crocata,  frustranea^  excelsa, 
lutea,  superflua,  and  BarJcerice ;  and  from  these  the  florists' 
flowers  of  the  present  day  have  sprjang. 

The  dahlia  thrives  best  in  a  rich,  deep,  friable  soil,  which 
should  be  trenched,  and  well  manured  with  thoroughly  decom- 
posed manure.     The  plants  should  be  set  out  in  the  latter 


THE   DAHLIA.  225 

part  of  May,  five  feet  apart  every  way ;  and,  as  they  grow, 
be  tied  to  tall  stakes. 

The  best  flowers  will  be  produced  in  September,  after  the 
nights  become  cool.  After  the  frost  has  killed  the  tops, 
the  tubers  should  be  taken  up,  and  stored  in  dry  sand  until 
spring. 

The  dahlia  is  propagated  by  cuttings  of  the  young  spring 
shoots,  Avhich  may  be  taken  off  and  rooted  in  a  frame  in 
spring,  or  by  division  of  the  roots  ;  every  eye,  with  a  portion 
of  root  attached,  making  a  plant.  It  may  also  be  raised 
from  seed  sown  in  April,  in  small  pots,  and  the  seedlings 
transplanted. 

The  characteristics  of  a  good  dahlia  as  a  florist's  flower 
arc,  — 

1.  The  flower  should  be  a  perfect  circle  when  viewed  in 

front ;  the  petals  should  be  broad  at  the  ends,  smooth  at  the 

edges,  thick  in  substance,  perfectly  free  from  indenture  or 

point,  and  stiff  to  hold  their  form  ;  the  flower  should  cup  a 

little,  but   not   enough  to   show  the  under-surface.     They 

should  be  in  regular  rows,  forming  an  outline  of  a  perfect 

circle,  without  any  vacancy  between  them ;  and  all  in  the 

circle  should  be  the  same  size,  uniformly  opened  to  the  same 

shape,  and  not  crumpled. 
15 


226  THE   DAHLIA. 

2.  The  flower  should  form  two-thirds  of  a  ball  when 
looked  at  sideways.  The  row  of  petals  should  rise,  one 
above  another,  symmetrically  :  every  petal  should  cover  the 
joining  of  the  two  petals  under  it,  —  what  the  florists  call 
imhricating,  —  by  which  means  the  circular  appearance  is 
perfected  throughoi^. 

3.  The  centre  should  be  perfect :  the  unbloomed  petals, 
lying  with  their  points  towards  the  centre,  should  form  a 
button,  and  should  be  the  highest  part  of  the  flower,  com- 
pleting the  ball. 

4.  The  flower  should  be  symmetrical.  The  petals  should 
open  boldly,  without  showing  their  under-side,  even  when 
half  opened  ;  and  should  form  circular  rows,  uniformly  laid, 
evenly  opened,  and  enlarging  by  degrees  to  the  outer  row 
of  all. 

5.  The  flowers  should  be  very  double.  The  rows  of 
petals  lying  one  above  another  should  cover  one  another 
very  nearly :  not  more  should  be  seen  in  depth  than  half 
the  breadth.  The  more  they  are  covered,  so  as  to  leave  them 
distinct,  the  better  in  that  respect :  the  petals,  therefore, 
though  cupped,  must  be  shallow. 

6.  The  size  of  the  flower  when  well  grown  should  be 
four  inches  in  diameter,  and  not  more  than  six. 


THE   COMMELINA.  227 

7.  The  color  should  be  dense,  whatever  it  be  ;  not  as  if  it 
"vvere  a  white  dipped  iu  color,  but  as  if  the  whole  flower  was 
colored  throughout.  Whether  tipped  or  edged,  it  must  be 
free  from  splashes  or  blotches,  or  iudefinite  marks  of  any 
kind  ;  and  new  flowers,  unless  they  are  superior  to  all  old 
ones  of  the  same  color,  or  are  of  a  novel  color  themselves, 
with  a  majority  of  the  points  of  excellence,  should  be 
rejected. 

As  in  dahlias  the  newest  varieties  are  supposed  to  be  the 
best,  and  as  each  year  gives  us  many  new  varieties,  the  best 
list  can  be  obtained  from  florists'  latest  catalogues. 

THE    COMMELINA. 

These  pretty  little  plants  are  natives  of  America ;  and 
some  have  tuberous  roots,  which  are  eatable. 

They  should  be  raised  from  seed  from  which  they  bloom 
the  first  year.  When  the  frost  has  killed  the  foliage,  the 
roots  should  be  taken  up,  preserved  in  dry  sand  until  spring 
in  a  frost-proof  cellar,  and  planted  out  like  any  tender 
tuber. 

The  species  are,  — 

C.  coelestis.  —  Flowers  blue  or  white. 


228  THE   SALVIA. ASCLEPIAS.  —  APIOS. 

C.  communis.  —  Flowers  bluish  purple. 

C.  tuherosa.  —  Flowers  blue. 

There  are  many  other  species,  mostly  with  blue  flowers. 

SALVIA. 

One  species  of  the  salvia,  S.  patens,  has  a  tuberous  root. 
The  seeds  should  be  sown  in  the  greenhouse  or  a  frame  in 
April,  and  the  plants  pricked  out  into  the  garden,  where 
they  bloom  the  first  year.  On  the  approach  of  cold  weather, 
they  should  be  taken  up,  and  treated  as  directed  for  comme- 
lina. 

ASCLEPIAS. 

One  species  of  the  silkworts,  or  milkweeds,  is  a  hardy 
tuber. 

Asclejpias  tuherosa  is  one  of  the  most  showy  plants  in  the 
garden  in  July.  The  flowers  are  deep  orange.  The  plant 
is  hardy,  and,  once  Avell  established,  will  bloom  freely  for 
years.  It  delights  in  a  rich,  deep,  light  soil,  in  which  the 
roots  strike  to  a  great  depth. 

APIOS. 

A.  tuherosa  is  a  pretty,  pea-like  vine,  with  hard  tuberous 
roots,  commonly  known  as   "  ground-nuts."      The  plant  is 


THE    APIOS. 


229 


climbing,   and  in  August  produces    large  clusters  of  deli- 
ciously  fragrant,  reddish-purple  flowers. 

A  native  of  Xortli  America,  and  not  imcommon  in  .shady 
thickets  ;  perfectly  hardy  ;  and,  once  planted  in  good  soil,  it 
will  take  care  of  itself. 


OST  generally  called  a  violet,  this  plant  *  is  a 
true  lily,  and  the  smallest  of  the  tribe.  Why  it 
should  be  called  a  dog-tooth  violet,  who  can 
say? 

All  the  species  are  natives  of  Europe  and  America,  and 
delight  in  a  soil  containing  an  abundance  of  decaying  vege- 
table matter.  All  bloom  in  very  early  spring,  and  have 
ornamental  foliage.  The  bulbs  are  very  impatient  of 
drought,  and,  when  transplanted,  should  be  kept  as  short  a 
time  as  possible  out  of  the  ground.  The  best  time  for  trans- 
planting is  just  after  the  foliage  has  died  away,  which  will 
*  Erythrouium. 


THE     BULBOCODIUM.  231 

be  in  June  ;  but  the  plants  should  seldom  be  disturbed.  As, 
individually,  they  are  small  and  low-growing,  they  should 
always  be  planted  two  inches  deep,  in  clumps,  and  on  the 
front  of  the  bed. 

E.  dens  canis.  —  This  species  is  a  native  of  the  south  of 
Europe,  and  varies  much,  from  white  to  deep  purple,  in  the 
color  of  its  flowers.  It  is  perfectly  hardy,  and  blooms  early 
in  May.     The  foliage  is  beautifully  variegated. 

E.  Americanum.  —  The  well-known  species  of  our  Avoods, 
with  drooping  flowers,  brown  outside,  and  bright-yellow 
inside.  It  requires  a  rich,  peaty  soil,  and  a  moist,  shady 
situation,  to  bloom  Avell. 

There  are  varieties  of  this  with  larger  flowers. 

THE    BULBOCODIUM. 

A  pretty  little  plant,  greatly  resembling  a  crocus,  and 
thriving  and  flowering  well  in  the  spring  border  under  the 
same  treatment. 

The  species  are  B.  vernum,  Caucasicum,  and  versicolor,  all 
spring-floAvering  and  perfectly  hardy.  B.  Caucasicum  is 
sometimes  called  Merendera  Caucasica. 


232  THE   COLCPIICUM. 


THE    COLCHICUM. 


All  plants  of  this  family  resemble  the  crocus,  and  are 
commonly  known  as  autumnal  crocus,  or  meadow  saffron. 
The  botanical  difference  consists  in  the  crocus  having  three 
stamens,  and  the  colchicum  six ;  the  colchicum  also  produ- 
cing many  more  flowers  from  the  same  bulb. 

All  the  family  are  natives  of  Europe  or  Asia.  These 
plants  need  only  to  be  planted  in  common  garden-loam,  where 
they  increase  very  rapidly,  and  flower  freely.  All  are  per- 
fectly hardy.  The  peculiarity  of  the  plant  is  its  producing 
its  flower  in  the  autumn,  and  throwing  up  the  foliage  and 
ripening  its  seed  in  the  next  spring. 

G.  autumnale.  —  A  pretty  species,  throwing  some  six  or 
eight  flowers  from  each  bulb  in  November.  The  flowers 
are  purple,  and  there  are  white  and  double  varieties. 

C.  Byzantinum.  —  A  native  of  Turkey,  with  large  bulbs, 
—  each  producing  sixteen  to  twenty  flowers  in  autumn, — 
succeeded  by  the  leaves  in  May.  The  flowers  are  pur- 
ple. 

There  are  other  species  ;  but  they  are  seldom  cultivated, 
though  perfectly  hardy. 


THE   ERANTHES.  —  THE   TROP^EOLUM.  233 

THE   ERANTHES. 

The  winter  aconite  {Eranthes  hyemalis)  is  a  simple  little 
yellow  flower,  valuable  for  its  early  blooming,  and  contrast- 
ing well  with  the  snowdrops,  which  are  the  only  flowers  to 
keep  it  company  at  the  early  season  at  which  it  blooms. 

The  flower  is  about  three  inches  high,  produced  one  on 
each  of  a  pair  of  flat-lobed  leaves,  which  terminate  the  stalk. 
The  root  is  tuberous,  and  resembles  a  lump  of  hard  peat- 
earth. 

It  needs  only  to  be  planted  in  the  border,  and  left  to  itself. 
It  is  a  native  of  England.  There  is  another  species,  a 
native  of  Siberia  {E.  Siherica),  also  with  yellow  flowers, 
and  equally  hardy. 

THE   TROP^OLUM. 

The  tuberous  species  of  this  family  bear  little  resem- 
blance to  our  common  nasturtiums.  They  are  generally 
tender  greenhouse-plants,  of  delicate  growth,  and  proper 
subjects  for  careful  culture.  They  are  natives  of  South 
America  ;  and  one,  T.  azurcum^  has  flowers  of  the  finest 
blue  in  the  floral  kingdom. 

The  tubers  should  be  potted  when  the  thread-like  stem  is 


234  THE   OPERANTHUS. 

seen  starting  from  the  top  of  the  bulb,  in  rich,  sandy  loam, 
in  not  over-large  pots.  The  plants  should  be  given  plenty 
of  sun  and  air,  and  the  hair-like  stems  daily  twined  round 
a  trellis.  After  the  bloom  has  faded,  the  foliage  turns 
yellow,  and  the  root  should  be  allowed  to  rest.  Growth 
generally  begins  in  autumn ;  and  the  plant  flowers  in  early 
spring,  resting  in  summer.     The  chief  species  are,  — 

T.  hrachyceras.  —  Flowers  yellow. 

T.  Jarattii.  —  Flowers  scarlet  and  yellow. 

T.  azureum. — Flowers  blue. 

T.  tricolorum.  —  Flowers  orange,  red,  and  purple.  These 
are  among  the  most  graceful  plants  in  the  greenhouse  ;  free- 
growers,  with  high-colored  and  very  curious  flowers,  and,  in 
T.  azureum,  delightfully  fragrant.  Trained  round  a  balloon- 
trellis,  they  make  fine  specimens.  A  singular  fact  in  their 
growth  is,  that  the  stem,  which,  where  it  joins  the  bulb,  is  as 
fine  as  a  hair,  is  often  found  to  increase  in  size  in  its 
growth,  and,  in  a  distance  of  several  feet,  may  be  three  or 
four  times  larger. 

THE  OPERANTHUS. 

This  little  bulb  is  often  found  in  florists'  catalogues  under 
the  name  of  Amaryllis  lutea.    It  is  also  called  yellow  colchi- 


THE    MUSCARI.  235 

cum.  The  flower  resembles  a  yellow  crocus,  and  is  pro- 
duced in  October :  the  folia";e  contiuuinfi:  to  jji'ow  durinjr 
the  winter. 

In  England  it  is  hardy,  and  contrasts  well  wdth  beds  of 
colchicum ;  but  it  does  not  stand  our  winters,  and  there- 
fore must  be  grown  in  a  pot  in  the  greenhouse.  Soil, 
common  loam. 

The  species  is  0.  luteus,  a  native  of  Tangiers  ;  and  there 
is  a  variety  with  narrow  leaves. 

THE    MUSCARI. 

These  plants,  commonly  known  as  musk  or  grape  hya- 
cinths, are  common  in  every  garden.  They  require  no 
particular  culture,  and  increase  and  flower  well  year  after 
year.  As  they  are  rather  dwarf,  they  should  be  planted  in 
the  front  of  the  flower-border.  They  propagate  freely  by 
ofl'sets  or  seeds. 

31.  moschatum.  —  This,  the  common  musk-hyacinth,  is 
readily  known  by  the  strong  smell  of  musk.  The  flowers 
are  purple  when  they  expand,  but  gradually  become 
yellowish,     A  native  of  Turkey. 

31.  macrocarpum.  —  A  more  showy  plant  than  the  last, 
and  easily  known  by  its  large  size  and  brilliant  colors. 

31.  comosum.  —  The  well-known  tufted  hyacinth,  of  easy 


236 


THE  LACHENALIA. 


culture  in  common  garden-soil.  The  feathered  hyacinth  is 
a  variety  of  this  species. 

M.  hotryoides.  —  This  is  the  best  known  and  finest  of  the 
family.  The  flower-spikes  look  like  little  bunches  of  grapes  ; 
whence  the  name  of  the  family.  From  their  peculiar 
fragrance,  the  plant  is  often  called  "Baby's  Breath." 

There  are  light  and  dark  blue,  and  an  almost  black 
variety ;  also  a  white  one,  which  is  very  pretty,  and,  it  is 
said,  a  pink  one.     A  native  of  Italy,  and  perfectly  hardy. 


THE   LACHENALIA. 

A  family  of  Cape  bulbs,  of  easy  culture  in  the  green- 


THE   STERNBERGIA.  237 

house,  under  the  usual  treatment  of  Cape  bulbs.  They 
require  a  sandy  soil,  and  are  often,  Avlien  well  grown,  orna- 
mental ;  but  the  plants  are  small,  and  make  but  little  show. 
The  foliage  of  some  of  the  species  is  prettily  variegated. 

There  are  twenty  or  thirty  species,  all  flowering  in  spring 
or  winter,  of  which  the  best  are 

L.  peiidida.  —  Scarlet  and  green  flowers. 

L.  quadricolor.  —  Scarlet  and  green. 

L.  luteola. — Yellow. 

L.  tricolor.  —  Red,  green,  and  yellow. 

L.  unifolia. — Green. 

L.  anguinea.  —  White,  variegated  foliage. 

L,  purpureo  coeridea.  —  Blue  and  purple. 

THE    STERNBERGIA. 

A  family  of  autumn-blooming  bulbs,  with  yellow  flowers, 
produced,  one  on  a  stalk,  before  the  leaves.  They  grow 
and  flower  freely  in  sandy  loam,  but  are  not  very  orna- 
mental. Treatment  the  same  as  for  Operanthus.  The 
species  are  S.  colchiciflora  and  Chcsiana,  both  with  yellow 
flowers  ;  the  former  a  native  of  the  Crimea,  the  latter  of 
Turkey. 


XVII. 

THE    ARUM,    CALOCASIA,    ERYTHRINA,    CANNA,    DICENTRA, 
SANGUINARIA,   RICHARDIA,    TRILLIUM. 

THE  AKUM. 


OST  of  the  plants  of  this  family  are 
more  curious  than  beautiful ;  but  the 
foliage  is  generally  effective,  and  the 
flowers,  from  their  peculiar  appearance, 
are  worthy  of  a  place  in  a  large  collec- 
tion. 

Some  plants  once  classed  with  this 
genus  have  been  separated  to  form  a 
new  family  called  ApwIS^ema,  and  some 
of  the  large  stove  species  are  now  known  as  Alocasia  and 
Calocasia.  There  are  about  a  dozen  hardy,  and  some 
twenty  greenhouse  or  stove   species.     They  all  thrive  in 

238 


THE    ARUM.  239 

sandy  loam,  with  a  portion  of  peat ;  and  arc  propagated  by- 
division,  and  rarely  by  seed.  The  plants  begin  to  grow  in 
the  spring,  when  they  shonld  be  repotted  :  in  the  autnmn 
they  rest,  and  should  be  allowed  to  dry  off,  but  never  to 
become  very  dry.  Some  of  the  stove  species,  however,  are 
evergreen. 

A.  dracunculus  is  very  showy  when  in  bloom. 

The  most  common  species  are,  — 

A.  {Ariscema)  dracont'ium.  —  The  common  green-dragon, 
with  tall,  hand-shaped  leaves,  and  bright-green  flowers. 
A  native  of  Xorth  America,  and  hardy  in  any  damp  garden- 
soil. 

A.  dracunculus. — The  well-known  dragon-plant,  growing 
several  feet  high,  with  a  large,  blackish-purple  flower. 
This  species  may  be  potted  in  autumn,  and  will  bloom  in 
spring :  it  should  have  a  rather  large  pot.  With  us  it 
requires  greenhouse  protection.  It  is  sometimes  grown  as 
a  house-plant ;  but  its  rank  smell  does  not  recommend  it  for 
the  parlor. 

A.  Italicum. — A  small-growing  species,  with  greenish- 
yellow  flowers,  requiring  greenhouse  treatment  witli  us,  and 
not  very  ornamental. 

A.  tenuifolium.  —  Also  a  low-growing  species,  with  white 


240  THE   CALOCASIA. 

flowers  ;  a  native  of  the  south  of  Europe,  and  requiring  the 
same  treatment  as  A,  Italicum. 

A.  (^Arisceum)  triphyllum. — The  common  Indian  turnip, 
or  Jack  in  the  Pulpit,  of  our  woods.  The  plant  is  curious 
and  ornamental,  both  in  flower  and  berry.  It  thrives  well 
in  deep  soil,  in  a  shady  situation,  and  often  grows  very 
large. 

The  stove  species  are  seldom  seen  in  collection. 

THE    CALOCASIA. 

These  plants  have  been  separated  from  arum.  They  are 
generally  distinguished  for  their  large  leaves,  and  are  grown 
as  foliaged  plants.  They  require  stove  treatment.  Most 
of  the  species  are  evergreen  ;  but  some  of  the  deciduous 
kinds  do  well  in  the  border  as  bedding-out  plants,  and  the 
foliage  is  very  ornamental. 

C.  escidenta.  —  This  is  a  fine  aroideous  plant,  throwing 
up  from  a  flat  root,  with  a  prominent  tubercle  on  the  top,  a 
crown  of  dark,  rich  green  foliage.  While  in  the  greenhouse, 
it  will  preserve  its  foliage  most  of  the  year :  it  does  well  in 
the  border  as  a  bedding-plant.  The  tubers  should  be 
planted  in  the  latter  part  of  May,  in  a  rich  soil,  in  a  sunny 
situation,  about  six   inches    deep.     They  will   soon   make 


THE   ERYTHRINA.  241 

growtli ;  and,  by  the  1st  of  August,  the  plant  will  liave  a 
crown  of  rich  foliage,  some  of  the  leaves  being  two  feet 
long.  If  tlie  roots  are  forwarded  in  pots,  plunged  in  a 
gentle  hotbed,  the  plants  become  effective  in  the  garden  by 
the  1st  of  July.  As  an  ornament  for  the  border  of  ponds, 
this  is  a  splendid  plant. 

The  soil  must  be  deep,  rich,  and  rather  moist,  for  the  full 
growtli  of  the  foliage.  In  autumn,  take  up  the  roots,  dry 
and  clean  them,  and  keep  them  in  dry  sand,  in  a  frost-proof 
cellar,  until  spring. 

G.  odorata.  —  This  is  a  stove  species,  with  noble  foliage 
and  very  fragrant  flowers.  The  plant  is  evergreen  and 
caulescent,  growing  from  three  to  six  feet  in  height.  The 
flower  is  large,  greenish  yellow-,  and  delightfully  fragrant. 
The  plant  requires  plenty  of  room  for  its  roots  and  leaves  ; 
and,  w  here  sufficient  space  can  be  given,  it  is  a  noble  plant. 

THE    ERYTHRINA. 

A  most  showy  family  of  plants,  which,  usually  grow^n  with 
stove-heat,  do  well  bedded  out  in  the  summer. 

Most  of  tlic  family  are   natives  of  the  tropics,  and  are 
rapid-growing  plants,  with  pinnate  leaves,  and  pea-like  flow- 
ers of  bright  or  dark  red. 
16 


242  THE  ERYTSPJNA. 

The  shoots  proceed  from  a  hard,  woody  root,  in  early- 
spring  ;  grow  rapidly,  producing  large  spikes  of  bloom  in 
August ;  and,  if  allowed,  will  continue  growing  until  the 
plant  becomes  a  shrub,  or  even  a  small  tree.  The  proper 
treatment,  however,  is  to  cut  off  all  shoots  close  to  the  root, 
and  allow  the  plant  to  rest  during  the  winter,  starting  it 
into  growth  again  in  early  spring. 

The  plant  is  singularly  facile  in  its  growth  ;  for  by  proper 
application  of  heat,  light,  and  water,  it  may  be  had  in  bloom 
any  month  in  the  year. 

Our  plan  is  to  treat  it  as  a  bedding-plant. 

In  April,  the  roots  are  planted  in  a  frame,  where  they 
soon  make  shoots. 

When  all  danger  of  frost  is  over,  and  the  chill  is  out  of 
the  ground,  the  roots  are  carefully  transplanted  to  a  rich 
border,  where  they  grow  vigorously,  and  bloom  freely  all 
summer.  When  the  frost  has  killed  the  foliage,  the  plant  is 
cut  down  ;  and  the  roots,  packed  in  dry  earth,  are  preserved 
in  a  warm  frost-proof  cellar  until  spring. 

The  flowers  of  all  are  red,  dark  or  dull,  or  scarlet ;  the  dif- 
ference being  in  color,  foliage,  and  growth.  The  plants  are 
easily  propagated  by  cuttings  of  the  young  shoots  in  spring, 
or  by  cutting  up  the  old  flowering  stem  when  ripe,  and  strik- 


THE   CANNA.  243 

ing  the  cuttings  in  sand  under  a  bell-glass,  with  strong  bot- 
tom-heat. Seed  is  also  occasionally  produced,  and  vegetates 
freely.  "Within  the  last  few  years,  the  French  florists  have 
raised  some  fine  hybrid  varieties,  with  very  brilliant  flowers  ; 
but  they  are  not  yet  in  general  cultivation. 

The  principal  species  are  L.  laurifoUa,  crista  galli^  herhacea, 
speciosa,  and  macrophylla, 

THE    CAXXA. 

These  plants,  commonly  known  as  Indian  shot,  are  very 
conspicuous  in  the  garden  as  foliaged  plants,  and  some  of 
the  flowers  possess  no  inconsiderable  degree  of  beauty. 
Raised  from  seed,  which  should  be  sown  in  pots,  with 
gentle  bottom-heat,  the  plants  make  but  little  show  the  first 
year  ;  but  when  the  roots  are  large,  and  the  plants  become 
strong,  there  is  no  more  effective  plant  in  the  garden. 

The  object  should  be  to  encourage  the  growth  of  the  seed- 
ling-plants by  pricking  them  out  in  rich  deep  soil  in  order 
that  the  roots  may  become  large.  After  the  frost  has  killed 
the  tops,  the  roots  should  be  carefully  lifted,  and,  with  what 
little  soil  adheres  to  them,  placed  in  flat  boxes,  and  kept  in  a 
dry,  frost-proof  cellar  until    spring.     In  April,   place  the 


244  THE   DICENTRA. 

roots  in  a  cold  frame  from  which  frost  is  excluded,  cover- 
ing them  with  a  slight  coating  of  loam,  and  water  them. 
They  will  soon  begin  to  grow  ;  when  they  may  be  divided 
into  as  many  parts  as  there  are  shoots,  and,  in  the  latter 
part  of  May,  should  be  transplanted  to  the  borders.  They 
are  very  effective  in  large  beds,  as  the  contrasts  of  the  leaves 
of  the  different  species  and  their  beautiful  markings  are  very 
fine.  The  flowers  are  red,  yellow,  crimson,  or  scarlet,  in 
long  spikes.     Some  species  grow  six  to  eight  feet  long. 

C.  Nepalensis^  viridiflora^  gigantea^  limhata,  and  Wars- 
zewiczii  are  fine  species.  For  a  long  list  of  species,  with 
height  and  color  of  flowers,  see  "  Garden  Flowers." 

THE    DICENTRA. 

These  plants,  of  which  the  best-known  species  is  the  well- 
known  D.  {Dielytra)  spedahilis,  are  hardy  ornaments  of  the 
herbaceous  border.  There  are  many  species,  mostly  with 
fleshy  or  bulbous  roots.  Some  of  our  native  species,  as 
D.  cucidlaria  and  Canadensis,  are  very  ornamental,  and  do 
well  in  a  shady  situation,  in  rich  soil.  D.  spectahilis  requires 
only  the  treatment  of  common  border-plants.  If,  however, 
the  plants  are  allowed  to  get  very  large,  they  decay  in  the 


THE   SANGUINARIA.  —  THE  RICHARDIA.  245 

centre  :  therefore  they  should  be  taken  np  and  divided  every 
third  year.  The  plant  seeds  sparingly,  but  may  be  increased 
largely  by  division.  There  is  a  white  variety.  The  Euro- 
pean bulbous  or  rather  tuberous  species  are  not  very  orna- 
mental or  desirable. 

THE    SANGUINARIA. 

This  well-known  flower,  the  bloodroot  of  our  woods, 
springs  from  a  thick,  creeping  root-stock. 

The  flower  is  white,  with  a  mass  of  yellow  stamens  in  the 
centre,  and  blooms  in  early  spring  ;  the  flower  bud  coming  up 
enveloped  in  a  sheathing-leaf,  which,  after  the  fading  of  the 
flower,  becomes  very  large.  The  plant  grows  readily  in  the 
border.  We  have  a  semi-double  chance  variety,  and  have 
little  doubt  but  that  a  double  variety  might  be  produced. 
S.  Canadensis  is  the  only  species. 

THE    RICHARDIA, 

Formerly  known  as  the  calla,  but  now  as  B.  ^thiopica :  this 
plant  is  one  of  th'e  best  parlor-plants  we  have. 

Its  growth  is  stately  ;  the  flower  showy,  fragrant,  and 
freely  produced  ;  and  it  seems  to  defy  all  the  injuries  which 
gas  and  furnace-heat  inflict  upon  other  plants. 


246  THE    TRILLIUM. 

The  root  is  a  flattish  tuber,  and  resembles  that  of  other 
aroideous  phmts.  The  only  requisites  for  successful  culture 
are  rich  soil,  plenty  of  water,  and  pot-room. 

It  propagates  freely  by  suckers,  which  should  be  removed 
if  a  single  large  plant  is  the  object ;  but  the  better  plan  is  to 
keep  repotting  as  the  old  pot  fills  with  roots,  and  allowing 
all  the  suckers  to  remain  :  a  very  large  plant  will  be  the 
result,  which  will  never  be  out  of  bloom. 

As  a  bedding-plant  in  the  summer,  the  calla  does  well, 
producing  fine,  healthy  foliage,  but  not  flowering  freely. 
In  water-scenery,  its  foliage  is  very  eifective. 

There  is  a  variety,  with  foliage  spotted  with  white,  which 
may  be  desirable  in  a  collection  of  foliaged  plants. 

The  plant  is  a  native  of  Africa,  and  is  killed  by  the  least 
frost. 

THE   TRILLIUM. 

These  plants  are  natives  of  rich  woods,  but  grow  well  in 
the  garden,  if  in  deep  soil,  and  not  in  a  very  dry  situation. 
They  are  among  the  most  beautiful  of  spring-blooming 
plants,  and  nothing  can  exceed  the  beauty  of  a  large  bed 
of  T.  grandiflorum  in  full  bloom.  The  corm  is  small, 
roundish,  and  seamed,  and  generally  deep  in  the  ground. 


THE   TRILLIUM.  247 

All  are  perfectly  hardy.  They  are  propagated  by  division 
or  by  seed,  which  vegetates  with  difficulty,  and  may  be 
transplanted  either  in  early  spring,  before  blooming,  or  in 
autumn,  when  the  foliage  decays.  The  fruit  is  a  red  or 
purple  berry.  All  are  natives  of  North  America.  The 
species  are,  — 

T.  cernuum. — Flower  white,  green,  and  purple  centre, 
nodding,  and  hidden  beneath  the  leaves  ;  the  least  handsome 
species,  but  very  easily  grown. 

T.  sessile.  —  A  low-groAviug  species,  with  dark-reddish 
flowers  and  variegated  foliage. 

T.  indum  or  erythrocarpum.  —  Flower  white,  with  lake 
centre.  Rather  difficult  to  cultivate ;  does  best  in  moist 
peat-soil. 

T.  gmndiflorum.  —  A  noble  species,  with  large  white 
flowers,  changing  to  rose-color. 

T.  eredum.  —  Flowers  brownish  purple,  and  with  a  dis- 
agreeable odor. 

There  are  also  other  species. 


TOVE  bulbs  and  tubers  are  those  which 
require  a  greater  heat  than  can  be  afforded 
by  a  greenhouse.  They  are  generally 
■^  natives  of  the  swamps  of  tropical  coun- 
tries. During  growth,  they  require  heat  and  moisture,  and, 
if  deciduous,  a  rest  when  the  leaves  begin  to  turn  yellow  at 
a  temperature  not  lower  than  G0°  ;  or,  if  evergreen,  to  have 
only  just  water  enough  to  prevent  the  leaves  from  flagging. 
In  the  present  volume,  we  propose  only  to  describe  a  few 
of  those  most  commonly  cultivated. 


THE    CALADIUM. 


These  bulbs  were  formerly  considered  arums  ;  the  earliest 
known   being,   even   now,   commonly  called    arum  hicolor. 


248 


THE   CxiLADlUM.  249 

Those  which  are  in  cultivation  are  natives  of  the  swamps 
of  the  River  Amazon,  in  the  province  of  Para,  and,  among 
foliaged  plants,  are  pre-eminent  for  graceful  growth,  and 
elegance  and  brilliancy  of  marking. 

The  tubers  should  be  planted  in  peaty  loam  and  sand,  in 
medium-sized  pots,  when  they  show  signs  of  growth  :  but 
in  this  respect  they  arc  very  accommodating ;  for  they  can 
be  started  into  growth  any  month  in  the  year ;  and,  by  a 
little  care,  a  house  may  be  gay  with  caladia  at  any  season. 
Some  species  continue  growing  the  Avhole  year ;  but  these 
do  better  if  a  rest  is  given  by  Avithholding  a  portion  of  the 
supply  of  water  during  three  months  in  the  year,  and  keep- 
ing the   plants   rather   cool.      As  soon   as  the  phiuts   are 
potted,  they  should  be  set  in  a  warm  place,  or,  if  possible, 
plunged  in  a  bark-bed,  near  the  flue,  to  give  them  a  little 
bottom-heat,  in  order  to  obtain  large  roots  before  the  tops 
begin  to  grow.     When   the   leaves   once   start,   the   plants 
should  be  kept  in  the  warm  end  of  the  house,  and  plenty  of 
water  should  be  given.     Indeed,  the  foliage  grows  larger, 
and  is  more  highly  colored,  if  the  pots  are  set  iu  pans  of 
water,  and  every  thing  done  to  encourage  large  growth  ;  for, 
as  the  beauty  of  the  plant  is  the  foliage,  it  should  be  well 
grown.     The  flowers  are  poor,  and  not  ornamental ;   there- 


250  THE    CALADIUM. 

fore,  as  soon  as  flower-buds  appear,  they  should  be  picked 
ojff.  The  phints  should  always  be  sheltered  from  the  direct 
rays  of  the  sun. 

The  foot-stalks  of  some  of  these  plants  are  sometimes 
three  feet  long ;  and  the  leaves  nearly  a  foot  long,  and 
eight  inches  wide.  When  the  plants  show  a  disposition  to 
dry  off,  reduce  the  supply  of  water,  and,  if  all  the  leaves 
die,  for  a  time  discontinue  watering  altogether,  and  let  the 
plant  dry  off ;  but  never  keep  it  during  rest  in  a  temperature 
lower  than  60°  to  65°  :  the  tubers  should  never  become 
quite  dry.  If  the  leaves  should  not  all  die  away,  it  is  best 
to  give  a  little  water  occasionally,  and  keep  up  a  weak 
growth  for  a  while ;  and,  after  the  season  of  rest,  the  plant 
will  throw  up  stronger  foliage.  If  the  temperature  is  too 
low,  and  the  soil  wet,  the  tubers  become  of  a  pasty,  soapy 
consistency,  and  perish.  All  the  species  are  easily  propa- 
gated by  dividing  the  roots  just  as  growth  begins.  The 
following  are  fine  varieties  :  — 

C.  Surinamense.  —  Dark-green  leaves,  spotted  with  white. 

C.  marmoratum.  —  Dark  green,  marbled  with  cloudy 
white  ;  grows  all  the  year,  and  a  small  plant  soon  makes  a 
specimen. 


THE   CALADIUM.  251 

C.  jndum,  —  Leaves  large  and  broad,  spotted  with  pure 
white  spots. 

C.  hcematostigma.  —  Leaves  dark  green,  with  transparent, 
red-and-white  spots,  and  very  slightly  tinged  with  red  in 
the  centre. 

C.  Hamholtii.  —  Leaves  covered  with  patches  and  spots 
of  transparent  white. 

G.  loellucidum.  —  Dark  green,  the  ends  of  the  veins 
touched  with  purple.  Transparent  white  spots,  with  a 
touch  of  red  in  the  centre. 

C.  argijritis.  —  Dark-green  leaf,  marbled  and  spotted 
with  snowy  white,  so  that  the  ground-color  can  hardly  be 
seen.  A  dwarf  species,  producing  an  abundance  of 
foliage. 

C.  Chantinii.  —  Leaves  large,  the  veins  and  midrib  of 
intense  red,  shading  to  pink  ;  the  dark-green  of  the  leaf 
blotched  with  rosy-white  spots  ;  the  border  of  the  leaf  pale, 
yellowish  green. 

C.  Neumanii,  —  Dark-green  leaf,  with  numerous  irregu- 
larly scattered  spots  of  clear  rose. 

C.  Brougniartii.  —  Leaves  rich,  velvety  green,  glaucous 
on  the  under-side  ;  leaf-nerves  very  large,  clear  red.  A 
lovely  species. 


252  THE   CALADIUM. 

C.  argyrospilum.  —  Shining  green,  spotted  with  irregular 
blotches  of  pure  white,  with  crimson  centre. 

G.  Verschaffeltii.  —  Dark  green,  with  rich  vermilion 
spots. 

G.  Houlletii.  —  Pale-green  leaf,  white  nerves,  marked  at 
the  centre  with  faint  red  spots. 

G.  suhrohmdum.  —  Shining  green,  with  crimson  lines  and 
veins. 

G.  hastatum.  —  Leaf  hastate,  of  dark  green,  so  marked 
with  numerous  small  white  spots  as  to  give  it  a  powdery 
white  appearance  ;  veins  slightly  touched  with  red. 

G.  picturatum.  —  Leaf  green,  the  veins  beautifully  bor- 
dered with  vivid  rose. 

G.  BarrcKiuinu. — Leaf  all  red,  with  a  narrow  border  of 
green.     A  very  fine  species. 

G.  hicolor.  —  The  oldest  species;  leaf  green,  with  red 
veins  and  centre, 

G.  atropurpurea.  —  A  tall  species  ;  leaf-stalks  dark  purple  ; 
leaves  dark,  blackish  green. 

G.  Bellemeyii.  —  Dark  green,  marbled  with  dazzling 
white. 

G.  poecile.  — A  pretty  species,  with  neat  foliage,  but  with 
no  vivid  markin<xs. 


THE   CRINUM.  253 

There  are  many  others  which  might  be  mentioned,  and 
some  very  rare,  new  varieties  ;  but  a  selection  from  those 
above  enumerated  cannot  fail  to  give  satisfaction. 

THE    CRINUM. 

A  large  family  of  amaryllis-like  plants,  with  large  foliage 
and  showy  flowers.  All  of  them  delight  in  rich  soil,  and 
require  plenty  of  water  when  growing.  The  bulbs  are  gen- 
erally large,  and  require  plenty  of  pot-room.  The  species 
cross  freely,  and  many  fine  hybrids  have  been  introduced. 
Most  of  the  species  are  stove  bulbs ;  though  some  thrive 
under  greenhouse  culture,  requiring  the  treatment  given  to 
Cape  bulbs. 

C.  australe.  —  Flowers  white  ;  a  greenhouse  species,  re- 
quiring rest  for  six  months  in  the  year. 

C.  flaccidum  much  resembles  a  white  lily. 

C.  Cdpense.  —  One  of  the  hardiest  of  the  family,  which 
may  be  treated  as  a  Cape  bulb  :  it  should  have  plenty  of 
water  while  growing. 

C.  amahile.  —  A  large  but  very  fine  species,  requiring 
stove  culture,  and  flowering  in  spring  and  fall.  The  flowers 
arc  dark  rose-color,  fragrant,  and  are  produced  on  an  im- 
mense spike.     The  plant  is  evergreen. 


254  'fHE   CLIVEA.  —  THE   EUCHARIS. 

C.  eruhescens. — A  stove  species,  with  pale-white  flowers 
in  July. 

There  are  some  dozen  varieties. 

All  the  family  are  ornamental,  and  will  repay  cultivation. 

THE   CLIVEA. 

A  splendid  flowering  bulb,  nearly  related  to  amaryllis, 
from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  It  should  be  potted  in  rich 
sandy  loam ;  have  a  high  temperature  and  plenty  of  water 
while  growing,  and  less  Avater  and  a  lower  temperature 
when  at  rest.  A  good  plan  is  to  grow  it  in  the  stove, 
and  rest  it  in  the  greenhouse.  The  plant  is  evergreen, 
and  is  difficult  to  flower.  The  flowers  are  red  and  yel- 
low, very  showy ;  produced  on  a  spike  two  feet  high 
in  July. 

C.  nohilis  is  the  only  species. 

THE    EUCHARIS. 

This  splendid  plant  is  of  recent  introduction.  It  is  a 
thick-leaved,  evergreen,  bulbous  plant,  of  the  amaryllis 
tribe  ;  a  native  of  Grenada  ;  requiring  stove  treatment,  but 


THE   GRIFFIXIA.  255 

very  free-flowering.  The  proper  soil  is  fibry  loam  and  a 
little  peat. 

After  potting,  say  iu  early  winter,  plunge  the  pot  in 
a  slight  bottom-heat  in  the  stove,  say  at  70°  to  75°, 
to  start  it  into  vigorous  growth,  giving  plenty  of  water. 
When  the  growth  is  perfected,  remove  the  plant  to  the 
greenhouse,  and  give  it  all  the  sun  possible  until  September. 
Then  diminish  water  to  hasten  the  ripening,  and  by  the  end 
of  the  month  remove  to  a  cool  stove  where  the  temperature 
is  from  50°  to  ijij°  ;  giving  only  enough  water  to  keep  the 
plant  healthy. 

It  may  be  forced  into  bloom  at  any  season.  The  flowers 
are  pure  white,  large,  and  showy,  on  foot-stalks  just  above 
the  leaves.  The  plant  will  grow,  and  we  have  bloomed 
it,  in  the  greenhouse  ;  but  it  does  better  in  the  stove. 

E.  Amazonica.,  or  gr  audi  flora  ^  is  the  species,  and  is  a  native 
of  South  America.  It  is  one  of  the  finest  of  the  amaryllis 
family;  and  has  the  merit,  which  so  few  have,  of  blooming 
with,  and  the  flower  seeming  to  conform  to,  the  foliage. 

THE    GRIFFIXIA. 

A  genus  of  stove-bulbs,  from  South  America,  which 
thrive  well  witli  the  general  treatment  of  amaryllis. 


256  THE   CYRTANTHUS. 

The  soil  should  be  peat  and  loam,  with  a  little  sand  and 
leaf-mould. 

In  growth,  the  plants  should  be  kept  at  a  temperature  of 
60°  to  80°,  and  have  plenty  of  water  ;  but,  when  at  rest,  the 
heat  should  never  exceed  50°. 

Propagated  by  offsets  and  by  seeds,  which  may  be  treated 
as  other  seeds  of  the  amaryllis  family. 

There  are  but  three  species,  — 

G.  hyacinthina. — Flowers  blue  and  w^hite. 

G.  parviflora.  — Pale-purple  flowers. 

G.  mtermedia,  —  Blue  flowers. 


„./f^5-^ 


d 


THE    CYRTANTHUS. 


The  plants  of  this  family  differ  widely  from  each  other, 


THE    H.EMANTHUS.  —  THE   BRUNSVIGIA.  257 

and  are  generally  of  difficult  culture.  A  greenhouse  is  too 
cold  for  them,  and  a  stove  too  close. 

They  should  be  potted  in  strong,  friable  loam ;  have 
greenhouse  culture  from  April  to  November,  and  an  airy 
situation  in  the  stove  from  December  to  April.  The  decid- 
uous species  should  be  kept  dry  in  winter. 

C.  ohUquus  and  carneus  are  evergreen  ;  the  remainder  are 
deciduous. 

There  are  eight  species,  all  natives  of  the  Cape.  C.  ohU- 
quus^ when  it  can  be  flowered,  is  very  showy. 

^ 
THE   HJEMANTHUS. 

Stove-bulbs,  but  flowering  in  the  greenhouse  ;  growing 
freely  in  sandy  loam  and  peat ;  natives  of  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope.  The  bulbs  are  large,  and  flower  in  autumn,  just 
before  beginning  to  grow.  The  flower  is  very  showy, 
but  by  no  means  handsome.  The  leaves  are  two,  very 
large,  and  grow  all  winter.  When  the  leaves  wither,  the 
plant  should  go  to  rest,  and  remain  until  August ;  when  it 
may  be  repotted. 

H.  coccineus  is  the  most  common  species,  and  there  are 
about  twenty  others. 

THE    BRUNSVIGIA. 

A  family  of  Cape  bulbs,  generally  requiring  stove  heat. 
17 


258  THE  EUCOMIS. 

They  are  allied  to  amaryllis,  aud  do  well  under  the  same 
treatment.  The  soil  may  be  loam  and  peat.  They  need  a 
season  of  perfect  rest,  which  should  be  given  in  winter. 
They  flower  from  June  to  September,  according  to  the 
species.  The  flowers  are  large  and  showy ;  but,  the  bulbs 
of  many  species  being  very  large,  the  plants  occupy 
more  room  than  can  be  afforded,  except  in  a  large  col- 
lection. 

B.  grandiflora  and  Josepliince  are  very  fine  species. 

There  are  about  a  dozen  species. 

B.  falcata  and  Coranica  are  also  called  Ammocharis, 
and  may  be  grown  in  a  greenhouse,  as  they  are  hardier 
than  the  other  species. 

THE  Eucosns. 

These  are  large  Cape  bulbs,  which  bloom  well  both  in  the 
greenhouse  and  the  stove.  The  flowers  are  coarse,  and  not 
very  handsome  ;  of  a  green  color,  but  fragrant. 

They  thrive  with  common  treatment,  resting  in  summer. 
They  bloom  in  early  spring.  There  are  five  or  six  species, 
none  very  desirable. 


XIX. 


ACHIMENES,   GLOXINIAS,   GESNERA. 


NDER  the  head  of  Bulbs,  we  could  hardly 
treat  of  these  plants  ;  but,  as  we  have  givea 
ourselves  more  latitude,  we  may  include 
them  :  and,  for  the  decoration  of  the  green- 
house or  conservatory  in  summer,  there 
are  no  plants  so  suitable  as  the  subjects 
of  the  present  chapter.  For  ease  of  cul- 
ture, beauty  of  growth,  and  delicacy  of 
bloom,  they  are  unsurpassed ;  and  they 
also  remain  a  long  time  in  perfection,  so  that  the  green- 
house may  be  gay  with  them  from  June  to  October. 


ACHIMENES. 


This  plant,  though  properly  to  be  grown  in  a  stove,  does 
well  in  the  greenhouse  in  summer.     The  bulbs  are  small, 

259 


2G0  ACHIMENES. 

varying  in  shape  in  the  different  species.  Early  in  Febru- 
ary, the  bulbs  should  be  turned  out  of  the  old  soil,  and 
carefully  planted,  about  half  an  inch  deep,  in  a  compost  of 
decomposed  peat,  silver-sand,  and  leaf-mould.  After  a- 
gentle  watering  to  settle  the  soil,  the  pans  should  be  placed 
in  gentle  bottom-heat,  or  over  the  flue  in  the  stove,  where 
the  temperature  will  be  about  75°.  Here  they  may  remain 
until  the  shoots  are  an  inch  high.  Another  mode  is 
to  start  the  plants  thickly  in  large  pans,  in  bottom-heat^ 
and,  when  the  plants  are  an  inch  high,  to  transplant  them 
to  the  blooming  pans  ;  the  advantage  of  which  is,  that  no 
bulbs  fail  to  come,  and  you  can  so  arrange  the  sizes  by 
planting  the  larger  in  the  middle,  and  the  smaller  round 
the  side  of  the  pan,  as  to  form  a  mass  of  foliage  and  bloom. 
The  plants  should  then  be  placed  in  a  house  where  the 
temperature  at  night  does  not  fall  below  G0°,  and  near  the 
glass,  that  they  may  grow  sturdy.  Let  the  soil  be  kept 
damp,  but  not  wet,  and  syringe  occasionally.  Should  the 
sun  cause  them  to  droop,  shade  a  little  at  noon.  When  the 
plants  are  about  five  inches  high,  they  should  be  tied  to 
neat  stakes,  which  should  be  as  small  as  possible,  and 
painted  green.     Fill  up  the  pots  (which  should  not,  till  now, 


ACHIMENES.  261 

be  quite  full  of  soil)  with  a  compost  of  loam,  well  decom- 
posed cow-duDg,  and  silver-sand. 

In  tying  the  plants,  care  should  be  taken  to  so  place  the 
stakes,  and  tie  the  plants,  that  the  whole  pan  may  be  a 
symmetrical  mass  of  green. 

The  plants  will  bloom  by  the  middle  of  June  ;  when  they 
may  be  removed  to  the  conservatory,  and  shaded,  that  the 
flowers  may  last  longer.  As  soon  as  the  bloom  opens,  all 
syringing  should  be  stopped. 

PLants  potted  a  mouth  later  will  succeed  these  in  bloom ; 
and,  by  a  succession  of  pottings,  the  stage  may  be  filled 
with  achimenes  until  wanted  for  winter-plants. 

If  the  air  of  the  house  where  they  are  grown  is  kept 
moist,  there  will  be  no  danger  from  red  spider  or  thrips  ; 
and  a  gentle  fumigation  will  destroy  green  aphis,  if  they 
attack  the  plants. 

After  blooming,  the  plants  should  still  be  exposed  to  the 
light,  but  should  have  less  water  ;  and,  when  the  leaves  turn 
yellow,  the  stalks  may  be  cut  off,  and  the  pans  placed  in 
a  dry  place  where  the  temperature  is  about  45°  :  if  upon  a 
damp  floor,  all  the  better,  as  thus  the  bulbs  keep  plump. 
It  is  a  bad  practice  to  dry  them  too  much,  or  to  take  them 
out  of  the  soil  and  put  them  away  in  paper-bags. 


262  GLOXINIAS. 

Some  of  the  best  kinds  are,  — 

A.  coccinea.  —  An  old  but  good  species,  with  bright- 
scarlet  flowers. 

A.  lo7igiflora,  and  varieties  major  and  alha.  —  Large  blue 
or  white  flowers. 

A.  Meteor.  —  Crimson-scarlet,  yellow  eye. 

At  Dr.  Hoff.  —  White,  rosy,  lilac  centre. 

A.  Baumanni  liirsuta. — Violet-purple. 

A.  Ignea. — Bright  scarlet. 

A.  carminata  splendens.  —  Brilliant  carmine. 

A,  picta.  —  Yellow  and  scarlet,  spotted  leaves. 

A.  Margaretta.  —  White. 

A.  Amhroise  Verschaffelt.  —  White,  marked  with  violet. 

A.  rosea  elegans.  — Bright  rose. 

A.  Sir  Tralierne  Tliomas.  —  Rosy  carmine. 

A.  pidurata.  —  Rose,  with  dark  spots. 

A.  Parsonsii.  —  Salmon-crimson,  orange  centre. 

GLOXINIAS. 

A  family  of  lovely  plants,  from  South  America.  The 
original  species  have  been  lost  in  the  multitude  of  fine  hy- 
brids which  have  mostly  sprung  from  G.  speciosa,  mandata, 


GLOXINIAS.  263 

and  caulescens.  The  bulbs  are  large,  and,  in  general  appear- 
ance, resemble  a  cyclamen.  They  should  be  potted,  one  in  a 
pot,  in  good  turfy  loam  and  leaf-mould,  with  a  liberal  admix- 
ture of  well-rotted,  rather  dry  cow-manure  and  silver-sand; 
the  whole  well  mixed,  but  not  very  fine.  The  crown  of  the 
bulb  should  be  just  covered  with  soil,  which  should  not  be 
pressed  in  too  close.  v 

Pot  as  soon  as  the  bulb  shows  signs  of  growth,  but  not 
earlier  than  January.  Treat  them  as  recommended  for 
achimenes  until  the  pots  are  filled  with  roots  ;  then  repot  in 
a  larger  size,  and  continue  the  treatment  until  they  flower. 
When  in  bloom,  remove  them  to  the  conservatory,  and  treat 
as  achimenes  until  the  time  for  repotting. 

Tliey  may  be  propagated  by  seed,  by  cuttings,  by  leaves, 
or  by  dividing  the  root  in  spring. 

By  cutting  a  leaf  up,  and  placing  it  in  moist  sand,  every 
part  will  make  a  smalf  bulb  ;  or  the  leaf  may  be  planted 
entire,  inserting  it  an  inch  or  so  in  the  sand.  This  latter 
method  makes  very  strong  plants. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  at  any  time  ;  but  the  spring  is  the 
best  season.  The  soil  should  be  light  and  rich  ;  and,  as  the 
seed  is  small,  it  can  hardly  be  too  lightly  covered.  Place 
the  pans  in  a  frame,  keeping  the  surface  of  the  soil  damp. 


264  GLOXINIAS. 

and  the  plants  will  appear  in  about  ten  days.  As  soon  as 
large  enough,  they  may  be  pricked  off  into  pans,  and,  in 
due  time,  into  separate  pots.  If  kept  in  a  moderate  heat, 
they  will  retain  their  leaves  most  of  the  winter  ;  and,  if  well 
grown,  will  bloom  the  next  season.  The  flowers  are  either 
erect  or  drooping.     Those  marked  with  a  *  are  erect. 

The  following  list  is  of  fine  kinds  :  — 

G.  alba  sanguinea. — White,  carmine  throat. 

G.  alba  grandiflora.  —  Pure  white. 

G.  Frincesse  cle  Lambelle.  —  Bright  red,  white  throat. 

G.  Carlo  Maratti.  —  White  and  violet-blue  ;  fine  varie- 
gated leaves. 

*  G.  Donna  Colonna. — White,  violet  rose. 

G.  Cartoni.  —  Carmine  and  pink. 

G.  Br.  Lindley.  —  White,  and  pale  blue. 

G.  Wilsonii.  —  White  and  carmine. 

G.  Fifyana.  —  White  and  purple. 

G.  Maria  Van  Soutte.  —  White,  pink,  and  lemon. 

G.  Tarragona.  —  Rich  crimson  and  white. 

G.  Fidgens.  —  Rose  tube,  with  crimson. 

G.  Princess  Royal.  —  White,  mottled-blue  throat. 

G.  Lady  K.  Hamilton.  —  Tube  and  throat  crimson, 
shadin<?  to  rose. 


GLOXINIAS.  265 

*  G.  Guiclo  JReni.  —  White,  crimson  centre. 
G.  Sir  Hugo.  —  Violet-purple. 

The  characteristics  of  a  good  gloxinia  are,  the  plant 
should  be  healthy  and  vigorous,  with  sufficient  foliage  to 
cover  the  top  of  the  pot.  The  leaves  should  be  broad, 
thick,  and  velvety ;  the  lower  ones  growing  in  a  horizontal 
manner. 

In  drooping  varieties,  the  tube  of  the  flower  should  be 
broad  and  stout ;  the  throat  should  be  wide  and  even  ;  the 
sepals  slightly  reflexed,  smooth  and  round  at  the  edges,  and 
of  sufficient  substance  to  retain  their  beauty.  The  color,  if 
a  self,  should  be  bright  and  distinct ;  if  spotted,  splashed, 
or  striped,  the  markings  should  be  very  decided,  and  not 
run  together.  The  greater  the  contrast  of  colors,  the  better  ; 
the  markings  to  be  regular  ;  the  three  under-sepals  should 
always  be  marked  alike,  and  of  uniform  size. 

The  plant  must  be  a  free-bloomer,  the  flowers  standing 
well  up  above  tlie  leaves ;  and  as  the  front,  or  inside,  of  the 
flower  is  the  handsomest  part,  it  should  be  the  most  con- 
spicuous. 

The  erect  varieties  should  have  a  long,  round  tube,  a 
little  swelled  at  the  middle  ;  the  throat  to  be  the  same  color 


266  THE  GESNERA. 

all  round,  the  sepals  the  same,  and  the  divisions  scarcely- 
perceptible .  The  mouth  of  the  tube  should  be  perfectly 
round,  and  the  sepals  be  blunt  and  smooth,  forming  another 
circle. 

THE    GESNERA. 

A  family  of  beautiful  stove-plants,  that,  by  regulating 
their  season  of  rest,  may  be  brought  into  bloom  at  any 
season.  The  treatment  is  the  same  as  prescribed  for  achi- 
menes  and  gloxinias,  except  that  much  syringing  should  be 
avoided.  The  foliage  of  many  species  is  beautifully  marked, 
and  looks  like  velvet :  the  flowers  are  in  long  spikes,  scarlet, 
red,  or  yellow,  and  often  finely  marked.  They  are  propa- 
gated as  gloxinias.  There  are  about  fifty  species,  and 
many  fine  varieties. 

The  families  of  Tydea,  Mandirola,  Lochiera,  and 
SciADOCALYx,  are  only  sections  of  achimenes,  and  need 
the  same  treatment. 


HE  previous  chapters  have  treated  at  length 
on  the  culture  of  those  bulbs  most  gene- 
rally grown;  but  there  are  still  many 
which  are  little  known,  and  rarely  found 
in  cultivation.  To  treat  of  these  fully 
would  occupy  too  much  space  ;  but  our 
work  would  be  manifestly  incomplete  did  we  fail  to  mention 
them.  A  large  proportion  of  them  have  never  been  in  cul- 
tivation in  this  country ;  and  some  are  known  in  England 
only  by  descriptions  of  specimens  once  in  cultivation,  but 
now  lost.     Of  some  we  can  speak  fully,  having  grown  and 

267 


268  PENTLANDIA.  —  HOMERIA. 

flowered  them  ;  but  of  others  can  only  copy  the  description 
offered  us  in  botanical  works  or  horticultural  serials. 

There  are  some  bulbs  which  we  have  omitted  entirely, 
because,  in  many  cases,  their  identity  is  difficult  to  establish, 
as  they  are  lost  to  cultivation  ;  and  others  are  so  rare,  that 
there  is  no  probability  of  their  ever  coming  into  the  posses- 
sion of  any  reader  of  this  volume. 

PENTLANDIA. 

Greenhouse  bulbs,  from  Peru,  allied  to  amaryllis.  The 
flowers  are  orange-red,  pretty,  but  not  remarkably  hand- 
some. 

The  plants  grow  freely  in  sandy  loam  and  leaf-mould,  and 
propagate  freely  by  offsets.  They  bloom  during  the  summer 
or  early  autumn.  The  species  are  P.  miniata,  lacimosa,  and 
SulUvanica ;  the  first  of  which  was  for  a  long  time  in  our 
possession,  and  flowered  freely  every  year  under  the  ordi- 
nary greenhouse  treatment  of  an  autumn-flowering  bulb. 

HOMERIA. 

A  family  of  Cape  bulbs,  worthy  of  more  attention  than  it 
receives.    They  produce  an  abundance  of  flowers,  which  con 
tinue   a  long   time    in   perfection,  and   are  very  brilliant 
Blooming   during   the    summer,  they   need    not   be   potted 


HEXAGLOTTIS.  269 

until  March,  and  require  only  ordinary  greenhouse  treat- 
ment, —  to  be  potted  in  peat,  leaf-mould,  and  sand,  and  freely 
watered  when  growing.  They  multiply  very  freely  from 
offsets. 

H.  Uncata.  —  This  is  the  most  common  species  ;  the  flow- 
ers are  coppery  red,  with  a  metallic  lustre,  and  are  produced 
in  great  abundance  all  summer. 

AVe  have  had  this  species  in  bloom  from  June  to  Septem- 
ber. 

H.  spicata.  —  A  beautiful  species,  with  orange-yellow 
flowers. 

H.  collina.  —  Orange-scarlet  flowers,  very  freely  produced. 

H.  miniafa  much  resembles  H.  lineata ;  but  the  flowers 
are  darker  and  smaller. 

Other  species  are  H,  aurantiaca  and  ochroleuca,  both  with 
yellow  flowers. 

HEXAGLOTTIS. 

Rather  a  pretty  little  yellow-flowering  Cape  bulb,  requir- 
ing a  sandy  soil,  and  perfect  rest  when  not  in  growth. 

The  plant  flowers  ia  early  spring,  and  should  be  allowed 
to  rest  after  flowering. 

The  species  are  H.flexuosa  and  virgaia. 

By  many  botanists,  the  family  is  united  to  Moraea. 


270  TRICHONEMA.  —  GALAXIA. 

TRICHONEMA. 

A  pretty  family  of  bulbs,  with  ixia-like  flowers  ;  natives 
of  the  Cape  and  of  the  south  of  Europe.  They  require  the 
same  general  treatment  as  ixias. 

The  flowers  are  red,  blue,  yellow,  purple,  or  rose,  and  are 
produced  in  spring. 

There  are  about  twenty  species,  of  which  we  may 
mention 

T.  caulescens,  roseum,  tortuusum,  specioswn,  and  criiciatum, 
from  the  Cape. 

T.  hulhocodimn^  Columnce,  and  purjmrascens,  from  the 
south  of  Europe. 

T,  ccdestinum ;  a  native  of  North  America. 

GALAXIA. 

Small  bulbs,  from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope ;  generally 
with  large,  showy,  yellow  flowers,  and  requiring  the  usual 
culture  of  Cape  bulbs.     Soil  sandy  peat  and  loam. 

The  species  are  G.  graininea^  grandijlora^  mucronularis^ 
ovata,  and  versicolor ;  all  blooming  about  midsummer. 


lapeyrousia;  hesperantha;  wachendorfia.    271 

lapeykousia. 

A  family  of  showy-flowering  bulbs  from  the  Cape,  called 
also  Peyrousia  and  Ovieda.  They  much  resemble  ixias  iu 
their  growth  and  flowers,  and  require  the  same  general 
treatment.  The  plants  produce  blue,  while,  violet,  or  pink 
flowers  in  spring. 

The  species  are  L.  aculeata,  silenoides,  anceps,  corymhosa, 
Jissifolia^  falcata^  fasciculata,  Fahricii, 

HESPERANTHA. 

A  small-flowering  bulb,  from  the  Cape,  thriving,  in  sandy 
loam  and  peat,  under  the  culture  usually  given  bulbs  of  this 
nature.  The  flowers  are  pretty,  but  not  conspicuous.  Like 
most  of  the  Cape  bulbs,  it  propagates  freely  by  oflTsets. 

The  species  are  E,  falcata,  cinnaniomea^  radiata,  and 
angusta^  with  white  or  violet,  very  fragrant  flowers. 

WACHENDORFIA. 

A  family  of  rather  large-growing,  free-flowering  Cape 
bulbs,  requiring  a  soil  of  sandy  loam  and  peat,  and  to  be 


272  HYPOxis. 

treated  like  ixias.  They  bloom  in  summer,  and  are  very 
showy.  W.  hrevifoUa^  unlike  most  Cape  bulbs,  has  ever- 
green leaves,  but  must,  nevertheless,  have  a  season  of  rest 
when  the  season's  growth  is  over,  induced  by  withholding 
water,  but  not  sufficient  to  allow  the  leaves  to  wither.  We 
have  had  a  very  fine  show  of  these  flowers  in  the  conservatory 
in  summer.  The  species  are  W.  paniculata^  Serherti,  grami- 
nea,  tenella,  and  thyrsiflora,  with  straw  or  yellow  flowers  ;  and 
hrevifolia  and  hirsuta,  with  purple-shaded  blossoms. 

HYPOXIS. 

Bulbous  plants,  with  thick  underground  stems  ;  natives  of 
every  continent  except  Europe.  Some  are  hardy  ;  but  most 
of  those  with  ornamental  flowers  require  greenhouse  culture 
in  loamy  peat. 

The  flowers  of  all  are  starry,  mostly  yellow ;  but  a  few 
white  and  blue. 

While  not  very  showy,  they  are  worth  growing  where 
there  is  room. 

There  are  sixteen  species,  of  which  H.  linearis,  stellata, 
elegans,  and  alba  are  the  best.     H.  ereda  is  hardy. 


273 


COOPERIA. 

A  North-American  family  of  tender  bulbs,  with  showy- 
flowers  expanding  at  night.  The  flower-stem  is  erect  and 
stiff,  each  bulb  producing  but  one  at  a  time,  crowned  with  a 
single  flower.  Soil  sandy  loam.  Propagated  by  offsets  or 
seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  spring.     The  species  are,  — 

C.  pedunculata.  —  "With  white  and  yellow  flowers. 

C.  chlorosolen. — White  and  evergreen. 

C.  Drummondii.  —  White  and  red  flowers,  natives  of 
Texas  and  Mexico. 

HAYLOCKIA. 

A  little  bulb,  allied  to  Cooperia,  with  straw-colored 
flowers,  blooming  in  September,  a  native  of  Buenos  Ayres, 
thriving  in  sandy  loam  and  leaf-mouhl.  The  leaves  grow  all 
winter,  and  the  plant  rests  in  the  spring.  Propagated  by 
seeds  or  offsets.     H.  inisilla  is  the  only  species. 

ANDROCYMBIUM. 

A  family  of  Cape  bulbs,  with  gi'cen  or  white  flowers,  grow- 
ing in  loam  and  santi,  and  propagated  by  seeds  and  offsets. 

A.  eucomoides,  melanthoides,  volutare,  are  the  species. 
18 


274   BLANDFORDIA  ;  BRAYOA  ;  CALOSCORDUM  )   MILLA. 
BLANDFORDIA. 

A  very  interesting  family  of  beautiful  bulbs,  from  Austra- 
lia, requiring  to  be  potted  in  peat  and  loam,  and  to  be 
treated  like  ixias.  Propagated  by  offsets  and  seeds.  The 
species  are  B.  nohilis,  flanwiea^  grandiflora^  intermedia^  mar- 
ginata^  Cunninghamii,  and  Backhousii,  with  red,  yellow, 
crimson,  and  orange  flowers. 

BRAVOA. 

A  little  Mexican  bulb,  allied  to  amaryllis  ;  flowering  in 
summer  in  ricli  light  soil.     Increased  by  offsets. 

B.  geminiflora,  with  red  flowers,  which  is  the  only  species 
that  has  flowered  freely  with  us. 

CALOSCORDUM. 

A  pretty  bulb,  allied  to  Milla,  thriving  in  common  soil. 
The  flowers  are  rose  and  purple. 

G.  nerinefolium,  a  native  of  Chusan,  is  the  only  species. 

l^nLLA. 

Small  bulbs,  with  beautiful  milk-white  flowers,  growing 
freely  in  rich,  light  soil. 


275 


The  principal  species,  M,  hiflora,  is  a  native  of  Mexico, 
and  is  very  ornamental.     Propagated  by  offsets. 

31.  uniflora  is  known  as  Tritelia  uniflora,  and  is  a  native 
of  Buenos  Ayres. 

ELISENA. 

A  very  showy  bulb,  allied  to  Pancratium,  with  large  white 
flowers,  resembling  an  Ismene.  Soil  very  sandy  loam; 
propagated  by  offsets. 

JE.  longipetala,  from  Lima,  is  the  only  species. 

ISMENE. 

South-American  bulbs,  with  w^iite  and  yellow  flowers, 
somewhat  resembling  a  daffodil.  They  flower  in  summer, 
and  may  be  bloomed  in  the  border.  They  should  be  planted 
in  pure  sand,  and  treated  as  directed  for  sprekelia.  If  the 
soil  is  not  sandy,  they  will  not  flower.  The  best  way  to 
obtain  bulbs  would  be  to  send  to  Peru,  where  the  most  com- 
mon species,  /.  Amancces^  is  very  abundant,  near  Lima, 
There  are  eight  species,  of  which  J.  Amancoes^  calathina,  and 
nutans  are  the  best. 

PANCRATIUM. 

Rather  an  extensive  family  of  greenhouse  and  stove  bulbs, 
growing  in  sandy  loam,  and  propagated  by  seeds,  or  spar- 


27G      CARPODETES  ;  DAUBENYA  ;  CARPOLYSA. 


ingly  by  offsets.  The  flowers  are  generally  white,  fragrant, 
and  showy. 

The  greenhouse  species  are  P.  Illyriciun,  maritimum^  rota- 
tum,  and  Carolinianum,  of  which  the  first  mentioned  might 
possibly  prove  hardy. 

Of  stove  species,  we  may  mention  P.  Canariense,  amoenum, 
hiflorum,  and  acutifolium, 

CATvPODETES. 

A  Peruvian  bulb,  with  yellowish-purple  flow^ers,  growing 
in  sandy  loam,  enriched  with  decomposed  leaves  or  well- 
rotted  manure,  with  good  drainage, 

G.  recurvata  is  the  species. 

DAUBENYA. 

Yellow-flowering  bulbs,  from  the  Cape,  thriving  in  rich 
sandy  loam,  and  blooming  in  summer  under  the  usual  treat- 
ment.    D.  aurea  and  fidva  are  the  species. 

CARPOLYSA. 

C.  spiralis  is  a  pretty  little  Cape  bulb,  with  pink,  starry 
flowxrs,  requiring  the  same  treatment  as  an  ixia. 


277 


HABRANTHUS. 

A  large  family  of  amaryllis-like  bulbs,  generally  natives 
of  South  America.  The  flower-stem  is  thrown  up  before 
the  leaves  in  early  autumn,  and  the  leaves  grow  all  winter. 

Tliey  should  be  grown  in  sandy  loam  and  peat,  with  good 
drainage,  and  have  perfect  rest  after  the  leaves  fade. 

They  propagate  by  offsets  or  by  seed,  wliicli  should  be 
sown  in  spring,  and  have  a  gentle  bottom-heat  to  start  it 
into  growth.  Tiiere  are  about  twenty  species,  and  many 
fine  hybrid  varieties,  of  which  we  may  mention  H.  Ander- 
soni,  and  the  varieties  aureus  and  ciipreus,  hifidus,  Bagnoldiy 
roseus,  intermedius^  and  kermisianus. 

IXIOLIRION. 

Rare  and  pretty  bulbs,  natives  of  Syria  and  Tartary, 
with  pale-blue  flowers.  They  thrive  in  common  soil,  and 
propagate  by  seeds  or  offsets. 

I.  itiontanum  and  Tartaricum  are  the  species. 

PHYCELLA. 

South-American  bulbs,  with  red  or  scarlet  flowers,  in 
summer  or  early  autumn,  growing  in  good  loam,  with  perfect 
draina";e. 


278  CHLORETIS  ;    STRUMARIA  ;    COBURGIA. 

They  should  be  planted  in  February,  and  taken  up  and 
kept  dry,  like  tulips,  when  the  leaves  wither. 

There  are  about  a  dozen  species,  of  wdiich  the  best  are 
P.  crytanthoides,  ignea,  hiflora,  corusca. 


CHLORETIS, 

A  family  separated  from  Crixuivi  by  Mr.  Herbert.  G. 
glauca  is  a  native  of  Mexico,  with  large  white  flowers. 

It  grows  in  sandy  soil,  and  needs  a  season  of  perfect  rest. 
It  flowers  in  August. 

STRUMARIA. 

This  genus  requires  the  same  treatment  as  Nerine,  to 
which  it  is  nearly  allied.  The  bulbs  are  of  low  habit,  with 
red,  white,  or  pink  flowers,  and  are  natives  of  the  Cape. 

Some  of  the  species  are  S.  truncata,  undulata,  geminata^ 
and  rubella. 

COBURGIA. 

A  family  of  South- American,  showy,  flowering  bulbs, 
growing  in  sandy  loam  enriched  with  leaf-mould.      They 


gastronema;  chlidanthus;  urceolina.   279 

may  be  grown  and  flowered  in  the  border,  like  the  Jacobean 
lily  (SpreJcelia).     Propagated  by  offsets. 

There  are  nine  species,  generally  with  red  or  orange 
flowers,  of  which  G.  incarnata  is  the  most  common. 

GASTRONEMA. 

A  family  of  tw^o  species  of  small  Cape  bulbs,  with  white 
or  rosy  flowers,  growing  in  loam  and  leaf-mould,  with  the 
usual  culture  of  Cape  bulbs  ;   flowering  in  early  summer. 

The  species  are  G.  sanguineum  and  clavatum,  both  very 
rare. 

CHLIDANTHTTS. 

A  pretty  bulb,  with  fragrant  yellow  flowers ;  native  of 
Buenos  Ayres.  The  bulb  grows  freely  in  sandy  loam, 
and  produces  numerous  offsets,  wliich  should  be  removed, 
or  the  main  bulb  will  not  flower.  Our  bulbs  flowered  in 
July.      C.  fragrans  is  the  only  species. 

URCEOLINA. 

A  Peruvian  bulb,  growing  in  rich  loam,  and  requiring 
shade ;  blooming  in  summer,  and  requiring  perfect  rest  in 


280        stenomesson;  fourcroya;  eucrosia. 

winter.      Propagated  by  offsets.      JJ.  pendula,  and  aurea, 
with  yellow,  red,  and  green  flowers,  are  the  only  species. 


STENOMESSON. 

Pretty  bulbs  from  South  America,  with  orange,  scarlet, 
and  yellow  flowers,  requiring  complete  rest  in  winter,  and 
plenty  of  moisture  in  summer,  and  to  be  groAvn  in  sandy 
loam.  They  flower  in  spring  before  the  leaves  grow. 
There  are  eight  species,  all  natives  of  Peru,  of  which  the 
best  are  S.  flavum,  curvidentatum,  croceum,  Hartwegii^  au- 
rantiacum,  and  vitellinum. 

FOURCROYA. 

A  family  of  enormous  amaryllis-like  plants,  the  stems 
of  F.  longceva  attaining  the  height  of  forty  feet.  They  are 
natives  of  Mexico,  and  are  seldom  found  in  collections. 
The  species  are  F.  longceva  and  F.  gigantea. 

EUCROSIA. 

A  pretty  bulb,  native  of  the  Peruvian  Andes,  growing  in 
rich,  sandy  loam.     The  flowers  are  bright  vermilion ;  but 


281 


the  plants,  though  often  grown  in  the  greenhouse,  thrive 
better  in  a  stove.  They  bloom  in  spring,  and  should  rest 
in  winter. 

E.  hicolor  is  the  only  species. 

CALOSTEMMA. 

New-Holland  bulbs,  of  which  there  are  five  species,  with 
yellow,  purple,  or  white  flowers.  They  grow  in  sandy 
loam,  blooming  in  early  summer,  and  "  need  abundance  of 
water  to  make  them  flower." 

The  species  are  C.  imrpureum^  alburn^  luteum,  carneum, 
and  Cunninrjliamii. 

EURYCLES. 

Stove-bulbs,  requiring  sandy  loam  and  leaf-mould,  and 
rest  in  winter. 

The  flowers  are  white,  and  produced  in  May.  The  species 
are  E.  Amloinensis  and  Australasica. 

GLORIOSA. 

A  family  of  bulbs,  with  climbing  stems,  allied  to  the 
lily.  They  should  be  grown  in  a  stove,  in  a  compost  of 
peaty  loam  and  leaf-mould,  potted  in  March,  trained  to  a 


282 


trellis  as  they  grow  ;  and  they  will  bloom  in  summer.  The 
flowers  are  yellow  or  orange,  and  very  showy.  Propagated 
by  separating  the  bulbs.  Well-known  species  are  G.  Nepa^ 
lensis,  superha,  and  virescens.  They  are  also  known  as 
Clinostylis. 

htdrot^nia. 

A  half-hardy  bulb,  "  with  the  aspect  of  a  Tigridia,  and 
flowers  like  a  Frittelaria"  Grow  in  light,  rich,  sandy  loam, 
and  treat  like  a  Tigridia  ;  taking  it  up  in  autumn,  when  the 
leaves  are  killed. 

The  species  are  H.  lohata,  from  South  America,  with  yel- 
low and  purple  flowers  ;  and  H.  meleagris,  with  yellow  flow- 
ers ;  a  native  of  Mexico. 

HYMENOCALLIS. 

A  family  of  some  thirty  species  of  greenhouse  and  stove 
bulbs,  with  large  amaryllis-like  flowers. 

They  grow  in  rich,  sandy  loam,  and  are  propagated  by 
oflsets  ;  blooming  in  summer. 

H.  adnata  and  rotata  may  be  grown  in  the  greenhouse. 

The  flowers  of  all  are  white,  and  resemble  those  of  a 
Pancratium. 


GETHYLLIS  ;    LIDEBOURIA  ;    VELTHEIMIA.  283 

GETHYLLIS. 

As  Fourcroya  is  the  largest  of  the  amaryllis,  so  is  Getlujl- 
lis  the  smallest. 

The  species  are  little  bulbs  from  the  Cape,  and  grow 
readily  in  sandy  loam  and  peat.  The  flowers  of  all  are 
white,  blooming  in  July ;  and  the  plants  are  about  six 
inches  high.  Propagated  by  offsets  and  seeds.  G.  Afra, 
spiralis,  and  ciliatris  are  the  species  most  known. 

LIDEBOURIA. 

A  rare  bulb  from  the  East  Indies,  allied  to  Bessera. 
Soil  sandy  loam  ;  flowers  greenish-white.  The  only  species 
is  L.  hijacinthina, 

VELTHEIMIA. 

A  family  of  large  Cape  bulbs,  not  very  handsome,  but  effec- 
tive, and  remaining  long  in  blossom.  Should  be  grown  in 
the  greenhouse,  in  sandy  loam.  The  plants  rest  all  summer, 
but  bloom  in  December  and  January. 

V.  viridiflora  is  the  most  common  species  :  with  us  it 
has  ripened  seeds  freely.     The  plants  rarely  make  offsets. 

F.  glauca  and  intermedia  are  the  other  species. 


284        CYANELLA  ;   RHINOPETALUM  ;   LIBERTIA  ;  ETC. 
CYANELLA. 

Small  Cape  bulbs,  with  white,  blue,  yellow,  and  red 
flowers,  which  do  Avell  treated  like  ixias.  Some  of  the 
species  are  C.  alha,  lutea,  odoratissima^  and  Gajoensis.  They 
generally  bloom  in  July  and  August. 

RHINOPETALUM. 

A  small  bulb,  with  pink-spotted  flowers ;  native  of  the 
Ural,  flowering  in  January.  Soil  sandy  peat  and  loam. 
a.  Karelini  is  the  only  species. 

LIBERTIA. 

Pretty  little  bulbs,  with  white  flowers,  allied  to  Vieus- 
SEUXIA,  blooming  in  early  spring ;  generally  natives  of 
Australia.  Soil  sandy  loam,  with  a  little  leaf-mould.  The 
species  are  L.  formosa,  grandiflora^  pulchella^  and  panicidata, 

PH^DRANASSA. 

South-American  bulbs,  allied  to  Coburgia,  and  requiring 
the  same  treatment.  They  may  be  made  to  rest  either  in 
winter  or  summer.     The  species  are  P.  chloracea  and  ohtusa^ 


brodlea;  massonia  ;  puschkixia  ;  caliprora.     285 

both  from  Peru,  of  which  the  former  has  produced  its  crim- 
son flowers  in  our  collection. 

brodi.ea. 

Showy  bulbs,  with  blue  flowers  in  summer  ;  natives  of 
the  western  coast  of  North  America.  Grown  in  sandy 
peat,  they  bloom  in  summer. 

B.  congesta  has  bloomed  finely  with  us.  The  other  species 
are  B.  grandiflora  and  GaUfornica. 

massonia. 

Small  Cape  bulbs,  of  little  importance,  with  white  flowers, 
flourishing  in  sandy  loam  and  peat.  ■  3L  Candida^  grandiflora, 
and  violacea  are  among  the  species. 

puschkinia. 
A  solitary  species,  with  bluish-white  flowers,  resembling 
a  Scilla  ;  native  of  Siberia,  and  hardy  on  sandy  loam.      P. 
scilloides  is  the  species. 

CALIPRORA. 

A  little  California  bulb,  with  yellow  flowers  in  August, 
growing  in  peat.  In  England  it  proves  hardy,  but  would 
probably  require  protection  with  us.  C  lutea  is  the  only 
species. 


286     camassia;  melanthium  ;  montbrettia;  etc. 

CAMASSIA. 

A  native  of  the  uorth-westero  part  of  America,  where  it 
is  very  common.  We  have  flowered  the  bulbs  in  the  green- 
house ;  but  they  would  probably  prove  hardy  planted  in 
spring,  and  taken  up  an  the  autumn.  The  flowers  are  pur- 
ple, produced  in  July.  Soil,  sandy  peat,  and  a  shady  situ- 
ation.     C.  esculenta  is  the  species.* 

MELANTHIUM. 

Mostly  natives  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  They  do  well 
planted  in  peat  and  sandy  loam,  and  treated  as  ixias  ;  gen- 
erally flowering  in  spring.  M.  junceiim  and  uniflorum  are 
the  best  known  species. 

MONTBRETTIA. 

A  small  Cape  bulb,  with  yellow  flowers,  resembling  an 
ixia,  and  requiring  the  same  treatment.  The  species  are 
31.  flexuosa  and  virgata, 

BESSERA. 

Mexican  bulbs,  with  beautiful  flowers,  blooming  in  Sep- 
tember, and  requiring  a  sandy  peat  soil.     Propagated  by 
offsets.     The    species  are   B.   elegans^  flowers  scarlet ;    B, 
Herherti,  flowers  purple  and  white  ;  B.  fistulosa,  purple. 
*  See  also  Scllla. 


nectaroscordum;  calochortus ;  cyclobothra.  287 

NECTAROSCORDUM. 

A  curious  bulb,  native  of  Sicily,  with  long  pendulous  pur- 
ple, green,  and  white  flowers.  It  gi'ows  in  common  light 
soil,  and  blooms  in  June.  N.  Siculum  is  the  only  species, 
and  is  rare  in  collections. 

CALOCHORTUS. 

Very  beautiful  California  bulbs,  blooming  in  summer. 
Most  of  the  finest  species  are  lost  to  cultivation,  as  they  are 
very  difficult  to  grow.  It  would  be  difficult  to  convey  an 
idea  of  the  beauty  of  the  flower.     Soil  sandy  peat. 

C,  elegans^  luteus,  nitidus,  venustus,  splendens^  and  ma- 
crocarpus  are  the  species.  The  flowers  are  white,  purple, 
or  yellow. 

CYCLOBOTHRA. 

The  flowers  of  these  plants  are  drooping,  and  very  orna- 
mental. They  are,  like  the  last  genus,  very  difficult  to  cul- 
tivate. They  bloom  in  August.  Perhaps  they  might 
succeed  better  as  bedding-bulbs  than  in  the  house. 

The  species  are  G.  alha,  white  flowers,  pulchella  and 
monophylla,  yellow  flowers,  from  California  ;  and   C.  lohata 


288     PLANTIA  ;  LEUCOCORYNE  ;  BELLEVALIA. 

and  lutea^  also  with  yellow  flowers,  and  purpurea,  with  green- 
and-purple  flowers,  from  Mexico.  They  may  be  propagated 
by  little  bulbs,  which  are  produced  on  the  stem. 

PLANTIA. 

A  little  Cape  bulb,  with  yellow  flowers,  growing  in  rich, 
sandy  loam,  and  propagated  by  offsets  or  by  seeds,  which 
should  be  started  in  spring  with  bottom-heat. 

P.  flava  is  the  only  species. 

LEUCOCORYNE. 

Very  fragrant  little  South-American  bulbs,  growing  in 
sandy  loam,  and  blooming  in  autumn. 

The  species  are  L.  alliacea  and  odorata  with  white,  and 
ixioides  with  lilac  flowers. 

BELLEVALIA." 

Commonly  known  as  the  Roman  squill,  as  it  much  re- 
sembles a  Scilla.  The  plants  require  the  treatment  of  the 
tender  Scillas,  and  bloom  in  May.    B,  operculata,  or  Jiomana, 


ALBUCA ;    GAGEA  J    BARNARDIA  ;    ETC.  289 

has  white  flowers ;    and  B.    Syriaca   has    orange-and-blue 
flowers. 

ALBUCA. 

A  large  family  of  bulbs,  with  whitish  or  greenish-yellow 
flowers  of  very  little  beauty  ;  mostly  natives  of  the  Cape. 
There  are  some  twenty  species,  which  may  be  grown 
like  ixias  ;  mostly  flowering  in  spring. 

GAGEA. 

A  family  of  about  twenty  species  of  small  bulbs,  with  yel- 
low flowers.  Natives  of  Europe.  All  hardy  in  England, 
and  many  of  them  might  stand  the  Avinters  here.  They 
are  not  handsome  enough  for  greenhouse  culture. 

BARNARDIA. 

A  pretty  bulb  from  Cliina,  with  pale-blue  flowers,  requir- 
ing the  same  treatment  as  a  tender  Scilla.  The  species  is 
B.  scilloides. 

HESPERASCORDIUM. 

Pretty  plants  from  California,  allied  to  allium;  growing 
in  sandy  loam.     They  bloom  in  July,  and  are  propagated 

19 


290      DRIMEA  ;    ERIOSPERMUM  ;   SPATALANTHUS  ;   ETC. 

by  offsets  or  seeds.     The  species  are  H.  hyacinthinum  with  « 
blue,  and  H.  ladeum  with  white  flowers. 

DRIMEA. 

Not  very  showy  Cape  bulbs,  requiring  the  same  treat- 
ment as  ixias ;  generally  flowering  in  August.  D.  villosa, 
altissima,  and  elata  are  the  best  of  a  dozen  species. 

ERIOSPERMUM. 

A  genus  of  Cape  bulbs,  comprising  eight  species  ;  flower- 
ing before  the  leaves.  The  flowers  are  not  ornamental, 
being  generally  greenish-white  or  blue.  They  grow  in 
sandy  peat,  and  propagate  by  offsets. 

SPATALANTHUS. 

A  rare  and  delicate  Cape  bulb,  allied  to  Triclionema.  The 
flowers  are  red,  with  a  star  of  yellow  and  black  in  the  centre. 
It  should  be  grown  in  turfy  loam,  sand,  and  peat.  The 
species  is  S.  speciosus  ;  but  it  is  a  very  rare  plant  even  in  its 
native  country. 

CONANTHERA. 

A  very  rare  bulb  from  Chili,  of  difficult  culture.  The 
plants  grow  in  winter,  and  rest  in  summer,  flowering  in 


291 

April.  The  soil  should  be  saady,  and  the  pots  be  well 
drained.  C.  hifoUa  and  Simsii  are  the  two  species,  both 
with  blue  flowers. 

CUMMINGIA. 

Another  South-American  genus,  not  very  easy  to  grow. 
Soil  sandy  loam.  Propagated  by  offsets.  The  family  was 
formerly  classed  with  Conanthera.  The  species  are  C. 
campanulata^  teiiella,  and  trimaculata ;  the  two  former  bear- 
ing blue  flowers  in  autumn,  the  latter  in  December. 

UROPETALON. 

A  genus  of  plants,  with  flowers  of  little  beauty,  growing 
in  light  loam,  and  propagated  by  offsets.  These  plants  are 
only  desirable  in  large  collections.  U.  serotinum  is  a  native 
of  Spain.  U.  longi/olium  is  from  Mozambique.  U.  glau- 
cum,  fulvum^  and  viride  are  from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

STREPTANTHERA. 

A  genus  of  Cape  bulbs,  with  showy  flowers,  now  united 
to  gladiolus.     S.  cuprea  and  elegans  were  the  only  species. 

TRITELIA. 

A  very  pretty  family  of  American  bulbs,  with  blue  or 
white  flowers,  growing  in  sandy  loam,  and  blooming  in  July. 


292 


TRITELIA. 


They  are  very  showy  plants  if  well  grown,  and  do  well  with 
greenhouse  culture. 

The  species  are,  — 

T.  laxa.  flowers  blue,  in  large  umbels. 

T.  vniflora^  flowers  sky-blue.  This  latter  species  is  a  very 
pretty  plant  when  several  bulbs  are  grown  in  a  pot.  It  has 
flowered  thus  with  us  very  prettily. 


INDEX. 


INDEX. 


PAGE 

achuienes  259 

"       The  Culture  of 261 

"       List  of  Species 262 

Acis,  The 101 

Aconite,  Winter 233 

Albuca,  The.... 289 

Allium,  The 174 

"       Species  of 175 

Alocasia,  The 238 

Amaryllis,  The 200 

"       Culture  of 201 

"       Temperature  for 205 

"       Second  Flowering  of 205 

"       Seedling 206 

"       Belladonna  21,  208 

"       LUTEA  234 

Ammocharis,  The 258 

Androcymbium,  The 273 

Anemone,  The 137 

"       Preparation  of  Bed 137 

"       Propagation 138 

"       Properties  of  a  Good 138 

"       Varieties '. 139 

Anisantiius  199 

Anomatheca,  The 197 

Antholyza,  The 198 

Aphis 56 

295 


296  INDEX. 


PAGE 

APios,  The 228 

ARIS.EMA,  THE 238 

Arrangement  of  Colors 30 

Arum,  The 238 

ASCLEPIAS,  The 228 

Atamasco  Lily 214 

Babiana,  The 150 

"       Treatment 150 

"       Species 151 

Baby's  Breath  236 

Barnardia,  The 289 

Belladonna  Lily 21,  208 

Bellevalia,  The 288 

Bessera,  The 286 

Blandfordia,  The 274 

Bloodroot,  The 245 

Bravoa,  The 274 

Brodlea,  The 285 

Brunsvigia,  The 257 

Bulb-Bed,  Autumn  Covering 32 

"       Preparation  of 37 

•'       Situation  op 31,  36 

Bulb-Cases 42 

BuLBOCODiuM,  The 231 

Bulbs,  what  are  they  ? 17 

"       Kinds  of 17 

"       Mode  of  Flowering 21 

"       Drying  off 22 

"       New  Formation  of 23 

"       Propagation  24 

"       Tender  Potting  33,  38 

u       Potting  38,  43 

"       Treatment  after  Potting 43 

"       Time  of  Potting  for  Winter 44,  45 

"       IN  VVardian  Cases 46 


INDEX.  297 


PAGE 

Bulbs  in  Water 40 

"     IN  Moss 49 

"       IN  y liGETABLES 40 

"     IN  Sand 50 

Caladium,  The 248 

"       Culture  of 249 

"       Species  of 250 

Caliproua,  The  285 

Calla  Lily,  The 245 

Calocasia,  The 240 

Caloscokdum,  The 274 

Calostemma,  The 281 

Camassia,  The 286 

Canna,  The 243 

Cape  Bulbs,  General  Treatment 14J-155 

Carpodetes,  The 270 

Carpolysa,  The 270 

ClILIDANTHUS,  THE 279 

CiiLORETis,  The 278 

Cllsostylis,  The 282 

Clivea,  The 254 

CoBURGiA,  The 278 

COLCHICU3I,  The 21,  232 

"       Yellow  2.'j4 

colociiortus 2s7 

Colors,  Arrangement  of -^0 

COM3IELINA,  The 227 

Compost  for  Bulbs 35 

Conanthera,  The 290 

CooPERiA,  The 273 

CoPvAL  Tree,  The  (Erythrina) 2U 

COKBULARIA,  THE    i'4 

Covering  of  Bulb-Bed  3' 

CnixuM,  The 253 

Crocus,  The 20,  31,  102 


298  INDEX. 


PAGE 

Crocus,  Species  and  Varieties 102,  107 

"       Culture 103 

"       Planting  Beds 104 

"       Removal  after  Blooming 105 

<'       House-Culture 106 

"       Forcing 106 

"       Seedling 107 

Crocus- Pots 50 

Crown  Imperial 31,  170,  172 

Cummingia  291 

Cyanella,  The 284 

Cyclamen,  The 218 

"       Potting 219 

"       Propagation  of 220 

"       Species  and  Varieties 221 

Cyclobothra,  The 287 

Cypella,  The  129 

Cyrtanthus,  The 257 

Dahlia,  The 224 

"       Properties  of  a  Good 225 

Daubenya,  The 276 

Depth  of  Planting 31 

DiCENTRAj  The 244 

Dielytra,  The 244 

Diseases 51 

Dogtooth  Violet,  The 230 

Dragon-Plant 239 

Drimea,  The 290 

Drying  off  Bulbs 22 

Dutch  Bulbs 27 

Elisen A,  The 275 

Eranthes,  The 233 

Eriospermum,  The 290 

Erythrina,  The 241 


INDEX.  299 

PAGE 

EUYTHROXIUM,  THE 230 

EucHARis,  The 254 

EuooMis,  The 258 

JJuoRosiA,  The 280 

EuRYCLES,  The 281 

Fkathered   II yacixth 236 

Ferraria,  The 173 

"       Species 174 

Frittelaria,  The  20,  22,  30,  170 

"       Culture 171 

"       Speciks  of 171 

FouRCROYA,  The 280 

Gage  A,  The 289 

Galaxia,  The  270 

Gastronema,  The 279 

Geissorhiza,  The 157 

'  "       Species 158 

Gesnera,  The 206 

Gethyllis,  The 283 

Gladiolus,  Diseases  of 59 

Manuring 41 

The 179 

History  of 180-185 

Pot-Culture 181 

Tender  Species 181 

Culture  of  Hardy 184 

General  Treatment 186 

Soil  for 188 

Seedling 189 

Preservation  of  Varieties 190 

Propagation  by  Bulblets 191 

Diseases  and  Enemies 192 

Multiplication  of  A^vrieties 192 

Varieties  of  Hardy 193 


300  INDEX. 


PAGE 

Gloriosa,  The 281 

Gloxinia,  The 202 

"       Culture  of 2C3 

"       List  of  Varieties 2CA 

"       Properties  OF  A  Good 205 

Grape  Hyacinth 23G 

Green  Dragon 2'59 

Green-Fly 50 

Griffinia,  The 255 

Ground-Nut,  The 228 

Guernsey  Lily 212 

Guinea-Hen  Flower 173 

Habranthus,  The 277 

H^MANTHUS,  The 257 

Hardy  Bulbs,  Planting 28 

Harebell,  British DO 

Haylockia,  The 273 

Herbertia,  The 129 

Hesperantha,  The 271 

H  ESPERASCORDIUM,   THE 289 

Hexaglottis,  The 209 

Hippeastrum,  The 200 

"       Culture  of 201 

*'       Species  of 206 

"       Hybrids  of 208 

Holland  Bulbs 27 

Homeria,  The 208 

Hyacinth 20,  29,  40 

"       Diseases  of 00 

<'       History  of.  The 01 

"       Soil  for 05 

•'       Selection  of  Bulbs 05 

"       Planting  in  Beds 67 

"                "           "Water 69 

"  Moss 70 


INDEX.  301 

PAGE 

Hyacinth,  planting  in  Sanu 70 

((          «    Pots 71 

Forcing 73 

KuLKs  FOR  Growing 71 

Treatment  after  Blooming 76 

Miniature 7G 

rROPAGATION 7G 

Species 78 

List  of  Varieties 79 

Properties  of  Good 84 

Grape  or  Musk 236 

Feathered -36 

H YDROT.KNIA,  THE 282 

h ymenocallis,  the 282 

Hypoxis,  The 272 

Indian  Shot 243 

Indian  Turnip 240 

Insects 51 

Iris,  The -"i,  120 

"       General  Treatment 120 

•*       List  of  Tuberous 121 

"       Fropagation  123 

"       Early-Blooming  Species 124 

"       Bulbous 121 

"       Spanish  124 

"       English 125 

"       Persian 20,  125 

"         Susiana 21,120 

"       Properties  OF  Fine 120 

"       Peacock l-^O 

ISMENE,  The 2:5 

IxiA,  The 1^" 

"       Treatment H8 

•'       Species 148 

IxiOLiRiON,  The 277 


302  INDEX. 

PAGE 

Jack  in  the  Pulpit 240 

Jacobean  Lily 21,  49,  204 

Jonquil,  The 92,  95 

Lachenalia,  The 236 

Lapeyrousia,  The 271 

Leucocouyne,  The 288 

Leucojum,  The ICO 

"       Planting 100 

"       Species 100 

Libertia,  The  284 

LiDEBOURiA,  The  283 

LILIU3I  Candidum 21,  162 

Lily,  Atamasco 214 

"    White 21,  162 

"    The 21,  31,  159 

"    The  Propagation  of 150 

*'    The  Culture  of 160 

"    The  Transplanting 160 

"    Forcing 161 

"    Properties  of 161 

"    Species  of 162 

"    Annunciation 162 

"    Guernsey 212 

LOCHIERA,  The 266 

Lycoris,  The 210 

Mandirola,  The 266 

Manure,  Liquid 40,  48 

Manures  for  BifLBS 33-39,  48 

Massonia,  The 285 

Mealy  Bug 57 

Melanthium,  The  286 

Merendera , 231 

Mildew 58 

Milla,  The 274 


INDEX.  303 


PAGE 
MONTBRETTIA,    THE 2SG 

MOREA,  The 128 

"       Species 129 

MuscARi,  The 235 

Musk  Hyacinth 236 

Myogalum,  The 90 

Names  of  Varieties,  preserving  30 

Narcissus,  The 29,  91 

•*       Planting 91 

"       House-Culture 92 

'•       Species 92 

•'       Polyanthus 21,  96 

"  "  Varieties 95 

"       Double  Roman 45,  97 

Nectaroscordum,  The 287 

Nerine,  The  211 

"        Species  of , 212 

Operanthus,  The 234 

Ornithogalum,  The 21,  176 

"                Species  OF 177 

O vieda.  The 271 

Oxalis,  The 143 

"        Potting 142 

"        Species 145 

Pancratium,  The 275 

Peacock  Iris 130 

Pentlandia,  The 268 

Persian  Iris 20,  125 

Petilium,  The 170-172 

Peyrousia,  The 271 

PH.EDR ANASSA,  ThE 284 

Phalocallis,  The 130,  195 

Phycella,  The 277 


304  INDEX. 

PAGE 

Plaid  Ixia 158 

Plantia,  The 288 

Planting,  Hardy  Bulbs 28 

"       PROPKR  Depth 31 

"       Rules  for 29 

Polianthes  Tuberosa 18 

Potting  Bulbs 38,  43 

"       Tender  Bulbs 33,  38 

Premature  Flowering 51 

PuscH KiNiA,  The 285 

Pyrolirion,  The 210 

Ranunculus,  The 132 

"       Soil  for , 133 

"       Treatment 134 

"       Seedlings 135 

"       Properties  of  a  Good 135 

"       Forcing 136 

"       Varieties 136 

Red  Spider 54 

Rest,  Season  of 20,  21 

Rhinopetalum,  The 284 

Richardia,  The 245 

Rigidella,  The 199 

Rot 58 

Salvia,  The 228 

Sand  for  Bulbs 38 

Sanguinaria,  The 245 

Scale 68 

SCIADOCALYX,  THE 2G6 

SciLLA,  The 86 

"       Planting 86 

"       Species 87 

Season  of  Rest 20,  21 

Situation  of  Bulb-Bed 31,  36 


INDEX.  305 

PAGE 

Snowdrop,  The 20,  98 

"       Plaxtixg 99 

"       Forcing loa 

"       Species lOo 

Snowflake,  The  lOO 

Soil,  Preparation  of 35 

Sparaxis,  The 152 

"       Species 152 

Spatalanthus,  The 290 

Sprekelia  21,  49,  200,  204,  209 

Star  of  Bethlehem 21    1?6 

Stenomesson,  The 280 

Sternbergia,  The 237 

Streptaxthera 291 

Strumaria,  The 278 

Synnotia,  The 190 

Stringing 3.   55 


Tardy  Flowering 


53 


Tiger  Flower 29^ 

Tigridia,  The 19^ 

194 


Species  of. 


158 


Tile-Root 

Trichonema,  The 270 

Trillium,  The 246 

Tritelia,  The 275  291 

Tritonia,  The J5^ 

"       Treatment 15^ 

"       Species  of l^g 

Trop.eolum,  The 233 

Tuberose 2g  ^^ 

"       The  Culture  of 215 

"       Selection  and  Totting 216 

TL'"^,  THE 20,  109 

"       Preparation  of  Beds Uq 

"       Classes  of JU 

20 


306  INDEX. 


PAGE 

Tulip,  as  a  Florist's  Flower 112 

"       Lists  of  Fine 114,  116 

"       Forcing 116 

<*       Double 118 

"       Species  of 119 

Tydea,  The 266 

Urceolina,  The 279 

Urginea,  The 90 

Uropetalon 291 

Vallota ,  The 200,  209 

Veltheimia,  The 283 

Vieusseuxia,  The 130 

Wachendorfia,  The 271 

Watsonia,  The 195 

"       Species  of 196 

West-Wind  Flower 213 

Winter  Aconite 233 

Zephyranthes,  The 213 


Ornamental  China  and  Glass. 


The  subscriber  has  constantly  on  hand  a  carefully  selected  stock 
of 

CHIJS^A  AND   GLASS   WARE. 

lie  is  prepared  to  decorate  China  to  order,  guaranteeing  per- 
fect satisfaction,  and  can,  without  delay,  furnish  complete  sets 
with  Initials,  Crests,  &c.  ;  or  will  decorate  a  single  piece,  if 
desired,  to  match  up  sets  on  hand. 

He  pays  particular  attention  to 

FINE  GLASS   WARE, 

having  special  facilities  for  getting  up  any  article  required. 

Crests,  Monograms,  Initials,  &c.,  engraved  in  the  most 
elegant  manner. 

Such  of  his  goods  as  are  of  foreign  manufacture  are  imported  by 
himself,  and  he  offers  all  at  the  lowest  possible  prices. 

Always  on  hand  an  elegant  variety  of 

Flower  Glasses,  Stands,  &c., 

RICHAR.D   BRiaaS. 

137  Washington  St.,  corner  School  St.,  BOSTON. 


DUTCH  BULBOUS  FLOWEB-BOOTS, 

Sent  by  Mail,  Post-paid,  at  Catalogue  Prices. 


B.    1^.    BLISS, 

SEEDSMAN  AND  FLORIST, 

SPRINGFIELD,     MASS. 


Just  received  from  Holland  a  large  and  -well-selected  assortment 
of  the  above,  from  the  same  source  as  those  heretofore  sold  by  him, 
and  giving  such  perfect  satisfaction. 

The  assortment  embraces  the  finest  varieties  of  Double  and 
SixGLE  Hyacinths,  Polyanthus  Narcissus,  Double  and 
Single  Early  and  Late  Tulips,  Double  and  Single 
Narcissus,  Jonquils,  Crocus,  Crown  Imperials,  Iris, 
Snowdrops,  Scill^e,  Hardy  Gladiolus,  Ranunculus, 
Anemones,  Japan  and  many  other  Lilies. 

ALSO  A  FINE  ASSORT:mENT  OF 

GREENHOUSE  BULBS, 

Comprising  Cyclamens,  Ixias,  Oxalis,  Sparaxis,  Tritomas, 
Achimenes,  Gloxinias,  &c.,  &c. 

His  new  ILLUSTRATED  AUTUMN  CATALOGUE,  con- 
taining fine  engravings  of  the  celebrated  Lilium  Auratum, 
Hyacinth,  Ranunculus,  Anemone,  Tulip,  Crocus,  Cyclamen,  Japan 
Lily,  &c.,  with  accurate  descriptions,  and  explicit  directions  for  the 
culture  of  each  variety,  will  be  mailed  to  all  applicants  enclosing 
Ten  Cents. 

Collections  containing  a  fine  assortment  of  all  the  leading  varie- 
ties of  the  above  will  be  mailed,  post-paid,  as  follows :  Collection 
No.  1,  $20.00;  No.  2,  $10.00;  No.  3,  $5.00;  No.  4,  $3.00.  For 
the  contents  of  each  collection  and  further  particulars,  see  Cata- 
log ue. 


The  following  varieties  of  his  selection  will  be  mailed,  post-paid, 
to  any  address  in  the  Union  upon  receipt  of  price  affixed :  — 

rer  doz. 

Hyacinths,  Double  or  single,  fine  named  varieties $3  50 

HiJClcinths,  Double  or  single,  fine  unnamed  varieties 2  00 

Hi/acinths,  Parisian,  Double  and  single  mixed 1  50 

Tulips f  Early  double,  fine  named  varieties 1  50 

Tulips f  Early  double,  fine  mixed 75 

Tulips,  Early  single,  fine  named  varieties 1  50 

Tulips,  Early  single,  fine  mixed 73 

Tulips,  Parrot,  Fine  mixed 1  00 

Tulips,  Hifhloemen,  Bizarres  and  rose,  fine  named 3  00 

Tulips,  Uybloetnen,  Fine  mixed 1  00 

Tulips,  Various  sorts  mixed 75 

Crocus,  Mixed,  blue,  white,  yellow,  and  striped    25 

Crocus,  Finest  named  varieties 50 

Polyanthus  Narcissus,  Finest  named  varieties 2  50 

Polyanthus  Narcissus,  Fine  mixed l  50 

Jonquils,  Double 1  50 

tTonquils,  Single,  sweet  scented 75 

Iris,  English,  Fine  mixed  varieties 1  00 

Tris,  Spanish,  Fine  mixed  varieties 75 

Manunculus,  Fine  mixed  varieties 50 

A.neinones,  Fine  mixed  varieties 50 

Gladiolus,  Hardy,  fine  mixed  varieties 1  00 

Snowdrops,  Double 75 

Snoivdrojjs,  Single 40 

Hyacinthus,  Fine  mixed  varieties 75 

Crown  Imperial,  Fine  mixed  varieties 5  00 

Liliuni  Auratum,  A  new  superb  variety  from  Japan,  each.   5  00 

Japan  Lily,  Red  and  White,  each  50  cts.,  per  doz 5  00 

White  Lily  ( Lilium  candidum) , . . .    1   50 

IFJiite  Lily,  Double,  each  40  cents,  per  doz 4  00 

White  Lily,  Striped,    "    40    "  "       4  00 

Lily  of  the  Valley 2  oo 

Pwonies,  Twenty  varieties   4  00 

No  orders  will  be  filled  at  these  prices  for  less  than  the  number 
specified. 


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:^ 


/ 


THE  CULTURE  OF  THE  GRAPE. 


BY    W.    C.    STRONG. 


"  This  book,  in  all  that  relates  to  its  mechanical  execution,  is  simple 
elegant ;  and  of  the  matter  and  manner  of  the  author  we  can  also  speak  in 
very  high  terms.  He  is  evidently  a  practical  vigneron,  and,  for  the  guid- 
ance of  the  inexperienced,  has  aimed  to  give  plain,  simple,  concise  rules, 
not  novel,  but  practical  and  approved.  His  opening  chapter  is  historical. 
The  second  treats  of  the  vine  in  a  botanical  point  of  view.  The  third  and 
fourth  contain  all  that  one  need  know  to  enable  him  to  increase  his  stock 
of  vines,  either  by  cuttings  in  the  open  air,  or  in  hotbeds,  or  by  layering 
and  grafting.  The  next  four  chapters  are  upon  soil,  situation,  planting, 
and  training.  There  is  a  new  mode  of  training,  mentioned  as  in  course  of 
experiment,  and  therefore  not  given  as  a  decided  success,  to  which  we  call 
particular  attention. 

"  In  the  chapter  upon  manures,  which  gives  a  long  catalogue  of  such  as 
are  suitable,  the  reader  will  find  one  fact,  of  greater  importance  than  any 
other,  about  fertilization,  stated  in  these  words :  '  The  mechanical  con- 
dition of  the  soil  is  quite  as  important  a  consideration  as  its  fertility.' 
Potash  (in  wood-ashes),  lime,  and  bone-dust  take  the  lead  of  all  fertiliz- 
ers, in  the  opinion  of  Mr.  Strong.  Coal-ashes  are  also  recommended  for 
the  sulphate  of  lime  they  contain,  and  also  for  their  mechanical  effects 
upon  a  soil  somewhat  stiff.  Ashes,  lime,  bone,  he  prefers  composted  with 
peat,  or  similar  earth ;  and,  if  stable-manure  is  applied,  let  it  be  put  on  in 
autumn. 

"  The  closing  chapter  is  one  of  the  most  valuable,  if  not  altogether  the 
most  so,  in  the  book;  and  it  is  all  the  more  valuable  because  it  contains 
matter  which  will  offend  a  good  many  readers,  who  find  their  pet  varie- 
ties in  the  rejected  list,  or  see  it  boldly  and  authoritatively  stated  that 
one  sort  is  only  some  other  well-known  sort  figuring  under  a  new  name." 
— Xew-Yorli  Tribune. 


J.    E.    TILTOX    &    CO/S    PUBLICATIONS. 


"  This  is  an  elegantly  printed  volume  of  350  pages,  embellished  with 
illustrations  designed  to  aid  those  using  it  in  the  better  execution  of  the 
work  of  vine  planting,  trellising,  and  culture.  It  is  a  work  we  can  confi- 
dently recommend  to  all  our  readers  in  pursuit  of  knowledge  in  relation 
to  the  culture  of  the  Grape,  as  it  regards  propagation,  layering  and  graft- 
ing, soil  and  situation,  planting,  modes  of  training,  distances  and  trellises, 
management  and  pruning,  methods  of  hastening  maturity,  manures,  dis- 
eases, insects,  miscellaneous  items,  culture  under  glass,  —  comprising  also 
a  description  of  varieties,  both  hardy  and  exotic,  with  lists  of  each  for 
amateurs.  A  new  book,  with  such  contents,  by  a  highly  intelligent,  practi- 
cal, and  successful  vine-grower,  one  who  is  experimenting  with  all  the 
new  varieties,  and  growing  the  best  old  ones,  cannot  but  be  just  what 
every  amateur  and  beginner  needs,  and  should  have.'" —Cultivator. 

"  It  is  real  pleasure  to  read  this  book.  The  information  with  which  it 
abounds  is  conveyed  in  a  clear  and  easy  style,  analyzed  so  carefully  as  to 
make  the  volume  a  vine-grower's  manual,  and  yet  so  agreeably  imparted, 
that  an  ordinary  reader  would  peruse  the  book  with  interest.  Witli  every- 
thing that  pertains  to  the  history  and  culture  of  the  Grape,  the  book  is 
furnished;  the  illustrations  are  abundant  and  intelligible;  and  the  excel- 
lence of  the  typography,  paper,  and  engraving,  makes  it  quite  a  contrast 
to  ordinary  agricultural  works."  —  Xew-Yoric  Observer. 


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THE    BOOK    OF    ROSES. 


BY    FRANCIS    PARKMAN. 


"  This  work  is  founded  on  an  experience  of  many  years  in  the  culture  of 
the  Rose,  and  the  various  processes  recommended  in  it  have  been  practised 
and  tested  by  the  writer.  Some  of  them  have  been  suggested  by  his  ob- 
servation of  the  requirements  of  roses  in  the  climate  of  the  Northern 
States.  As  a  general  rule,  writers  on  the  Rose  have  copied  from  each  other 
without  sufficiently  considering  that  it  requires  widely  different  treatment 
in  different  countries.  Previous  books  on  the  subject  have  been  very  de- 
fective in  the  arrangement  of  their  matter,  especially  in  treating  of  the 
different  families  and  classes  of  roses,  leaving  the  mind  of  the  reader  in 
confusion  as  to  their  origin  and  relationship.  The  Book  of  Roses  attempts 
to  remedy  this  defect,  and  to  present  a  clear  view  of  the  various  subdivis- 
ions of  the  race,  with  the  characteristics  of  each,  and  the  results  of  their 
combinations  or  intermarriages.  The  Rose  is  constantly  in  process  of  de- 
velopment; and  any  book,  written  even  a  few  years  ago,  may  now  be  very 
far  behind  the  time.  The  latest  new  roses  down  to  the  present  time,  and 
the  latest  methods  of  cultivating  them,  are  given  in  this  book." 

The  Post  says,  "Mr.  Parkman's  style  is  vivacious,  easy,  and  pleasant; 
his  suggestions  clear,  practicable,  and  intelligible;  so  that  all  who  will  may 
do  as  he  has  done.  It  is  equally  adapted  to  the  parlor  table  and  as  a  gar- 
den companion.  It  is  a  substantial  addition  to  our  horticultural  literature, 
and  a  masterpiece  of  bibliographical  art.  The  type  is  clear  and  beautiful, 
the  paper  thick  and  tinted,  and  the  illustrations  executed  with  care  and 
appropriateness." 

"  Amateurs  will  find  in  this  volume  all  the  information  necessary  in 
regard  to  the  culture,  propagation,  and  character  of  the  Rose,  with  ample 


J.    E.    TILTON    &    CO.  S   PUBLICATIONS. 


description  of  varieties  and  their  respective  habits,  to  enable  them  to 
make  suitable  selections  for  all  situations.  At  the  end  of  the  volume, 
twenty-three  pages  are  filled  with  a  catalogue  of  the  names  of  roses,  in 
addition  to  those  named  in  the  body  of  the  work,  and  a  complete  list  of 
new  roses.  The  style  of  the  volume  is  worthy  the  subject  upon  which  it 
treats :  it  would  not  put  a  beautiful  bouquet  of  roses  to  blush  if  placed 
side  by  side  upon  the  same  table.  "We  earnestly  commend  the  book  to  all 
the  lovers  of  the  Queen  of  Flowers."  —  Xcw-Yorl:  Tribune. 

"  One  who  is  unacquainted  with  rose-culture  would  be  both  pleased  and 
surprised  upon  reading  this  book.  A  branch  of  knowledge  so  extensive, 
relating  only  to  a  single  shrub,  would  surprise,  and  the  remarkably  enter- 
taining manner  in  which  this  knowledge  is  conveyed  would  please,  the 
reader.  The  book  is  occupied  with  rose-culture,  and  description  of  roses. 
The  various  methods  of  propagation  and  cultivation  are  explained  and 
illustrated,  and  a  full  catalogue  of  the  most  approved  varieties  of  roses  is 
furnished.  The  book  is  a  model  of  the  art  of  printing-  and  binding,  and 
will  be  equally  adapted  to  the  parlor  table  or  the  greenhouse  shelf."  — 
Keio  -  York  Observer. 

Beautifully  illustrated,  and  elegantly  bound  in  muslin  extra. 

Price    ....    $3.00         Same  in  halfcalf,  or  half  morocco  .    $5.00 
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Garden  Flowers,  and  How  to  Cultivate  Them. 

BY  EDWAED   S.  RAND,  JR., 

AUTHOR  OF  "  FLO-VVEKS  FOR  THE  PARLOR  AND  GARDEN." 


"  J.  E.  Tilton  &  Co.  have  added  two  more  books  to  the  very  valuable 
books  on  Gardening  already  published  by  them.  One  of  these  is  '  Garden 
Flowers,  and  How  to  Cultivate  Them.'  The  author  is  Mr.  E.  S.  Rand,  jun.  ; 
and  the  book  is  a  treatise  on  the  culture  of  hardy,  ornamental  trees,  shrubs, 
annuals,  herbaceous  and  bedding  plants.  The  book  is  elegantly  printed 
and  bound,  and  has  many  delicate  illustrations.  It  is  in  the  form  of  an 
alphabetical  index,  which  gives  the  name  of  the  plant,  its  varieties,  a  de- 
scription of  each,  and  such  information  as  may  further  the  desig^n  of  the 
author  in  imparting  accurate  knowledge  of  a  subject  interesting-  to  every 
one  who  has  a  garden  or  a  lawn,  or  who  cultivates  flowers,  shrubbery,  or 
trees.  The  book  supplies  a  want  long  felt,  and  which  other  treatises  have 
only  partially  met.  It  explains  the  conditions  under  which  plants  live 
and  thrive  ;  and,  in  short,  gives  to  every  reader  the  abundant  knowledge 
possessed  by  the  writer.  Mr.  Rand  is  already  known  to  the  public  by  his 
work  on  '  Parlor  Gardening.'  A  third  volume  from  his  pen,  describing 
*  Greenhouse  Plants,'  is  now  in  press.  The  three  volumes  are  essential 
both  to  the  florist  and  amateur."  —  Com.  Adv. 

"  This  is  a  work,  which,  much  as  it  was  needed,  has  never  before  been 
placed  before  the  public.  It  is  a  full,  comprehensive  book  of  garden  flow- 
ers, for  the  use  of  all  who  cultivate  them,  conveying  the  very  sort  of  knowl- 
edge that  amateurs  will  seek,  —  the  preparation  of  soil,  the  application  of 


J.    E.    TILTON'    &    CO.  S    PUBLICATIONS. 


manures,  the  sowing  of  seed,  the  formation  of  hotbeds,  and  an  immense 
list  to  select  from,  of  hardy  pirenuial,  biennial,  annual,  and  bedding 
plants.  All  the  plants  mentioned  are  alphabetically  named,  with  their  dif- 
ferent varieties,  height,  length,  and  other  peculiarities,  and  founded  on  the 
best  authorities.  This  bids  fair  to  become  a  popular  and  standard  horticul- 
tural publication." —  Chicar/o  Journal. 

"  This  elegant  book  is  a  credit  to  American  agricultural  literature.  It  is 
a  work  of  384  pages,  beautifully  printed  on  tinted  paper,  and  illustrated  by 
many  appropriate  engravings. 

"  It  was  undertaken,  as  the  author  says,  to  supply  the  want,  which  has 
long  been  felt,  of  a  trustworthy  hand  book  of  garden  flowers ;  one  whicli 
should  comprise  a  short  treatise  on  the  culture  of  hardy  perennials,  bien- 
nials, and  annuals,  as  well  as  the  more  showy  family  of  bedding  plants. 
The  volume,  therefore,  contains  concise  directions  for  the  culture  of  every 
plant  usually  met  with  in  the  garden,  including  trees,  shrubs,  and  climbers. 

"  Tills,  it  must  be  seen,  is  an  extremely  interesting  field  of  practical  in- 
vestigation ;  and  the  author  is  entitled  to  the  thanks  and  the  patronage  of 
the  community  for  the  complete  and  able  manner  in  which  he  has  entered 
upon  and  presented  it.  We  can  cheerfully  commend  the  work  to  florists 
and  gardeners,  and  to  all  others  interested  in  the  subject."  — J/ass. 
Ploufjlimun. 

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J.    E.    TILTON    &    CO.  S    PUBLICATIONS. 


Garden  Vegetables,  and  How  to  Cultivate  Them. 

BY  FEARING  BURR, 

AUTHOR  OF  "  FIELD  AND  GARDEN  VEGETABLES  OF  AMERICA." 

^^  Garden  Vegetables,  and  How  to  Cultivate  T/icm,  by  Fearing  Burr,  jun., 
has  just  been  issued  by  the  enterprising  firm  of  J.  E.  Tilton  &  Co.,  Boston, 
corresponding'  in  elegance  of  style  with  the  '  Culture  of  the  Grape,'  by 
W.  C.  Strong,  lately  noticed,  as  published  by  the  same  house.  Mr.  Burr, 
in  a  model  preface,  most  of  which  we  quote,  tersely  says,  '  The  object  of 
this  volume  is  to  give  full  descriptions  of  vegetables  common  to  the  gar- 
dens of  this  country,  with  the  most  approved  methods  of  cultivation,  pres- 
ervation, and  use  '  Every  farmer  and  suburbanist  who  would  have  a 
good  vegetable  garden  cannot  fail,  with  Burr's  practically  illustrated 
manual  in  hand,  with  the  exercise  of  an  ordinary  degree  of  attention, 
skill,  and  industry.  It  may  be  truly  styled  the  American  gardener's  vade 
mecum,  filled  with  useful  and  sententious  specifications  by  a  practical  gar- 
dener, and  therefore  just  what  the  man  with  spade,  hoe,  and  seeds  in  hand, 
needs  at  this  time.  We  will  only  add,  that  so  felicitously  has  the  author 
done  his  work,  and  so  elegantly  have  the  publishers  done  theirs,  one 
hardly  knows  which  more  to  admire,  the  skill  of  the  former,  or  the  taste 
of  the  latter.  Get  it  and  read  it,  and  you  will  say,  '  The  half  was  not  told 
me.'"  —  Boston  Cultivator. 

"  This  is  a  fine,  illustrated  volume,  just  published  by  J.  E.  Tilton  &  Co.,  in 
the  same  unexceptional  style  which  has  made  Parkman's  '  Book  of  Roses,' 
and  Rand's  '  3Ianual  for  the  Rearing  of  Flowers,'  so  popular.  This  firm 
arc  really  furnishing  a  library  which  no  one  given  to  gardening  as  a  voca- 
tion or  recreation  can  afford  to  be  without.  Their  various  publications 
have  been  prepared  by  those  practically  acquainted  with  the  useful  and 
attractive  subjects  of  which  they  discourse."  —  Transcript. 


J.    E.    TILTON    &    CO.  S    rURLICATIONS. 


"  This  volume  is  to  the  gardener  wliat  a  manual  of  botany  is  to  the  bota- 
nist. It  professi'S  no  more  tlian  to  be  '  a  manual,  or  guiile,  to  assist  in  the 
identitication  and  selection  of  varieties  ratiier  than  a  treatise  on  cultiva- 
tion.' It  contains  short  descriptions  of  over  a  thousand  varieties  of  use- 
ful vegetables,  with  some  notice  of  the  proper  soil  and  cultivation  of  the 
more  important.  The  descriptions  are  in  plain  language,  terse,  and  as  sat- 
isfactory as  the  case  will  admit  of.  The  preparation  of  such  a  work  pre- 
sents peculiar  difficulties.  Varieties  arc  often  separated  by  very  slight 
differences,  or  are  inconstant  in  their  characters,  or  depend  on  local  con 
dltions,  or  are  determined  by  such  characters  as  can  only  be  learned  by 
actual  observation,  and  cannot  be  well  described  in  language ;  so  that  any 
attempt  at  description  must  be  unsatisfactory.  In  this  work,  the  attemjjt 
has  been  unusually  successful ;  and  many  of  the  more  important  varieties 
are  illustrated  by  engravings  from  characteristic  drawings  by  Sprague, 
who  is,  perhaps,  the  most  successful  as  well  as  most  eminent  botanical 
draughtsman  in  this  country.  The  plants  are  classified  according  to  their 
uses;  and,  wliilo  tlie  botanical  names  are  given,  they  are  subordinate  to  the 
common  English  ones.  The  book  is  beautifully  printed,  is  furnished  with 
a  good  index,  and  is  a  valuable  addition  to  our  horticultural  literature.''  — 
The  Nation , 


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J.    E.    TILTON    &    CO.'S    PUBLICATIOXS. 


FLOWEBS 

FOR   THE    PARLOR   AND   GARDEN. 

BY   EDWARD    SPRAGUE   RAND,   Jr. 

A  splendid  illustrated  volume  on  the  culture  of  Greenhouse,  Conserva- 
tory, Stove,  Parlor,  and  Garden  Flowers,  Ferns,  Bulbs,  etc.  Instructions 
and  plans  on  the  building,  stocking,  and  keeping  Conservatories,  Green- 
houses, etc. ;  Waltonian  Cases,  Ferneries,  etc.;  Soil  for  the  Flower  Gar- 
den; list  of  best  Plants  and  Seeds;  how  to  propagate;  time  of  planting 
and  flowering.  In  short,  every  information  needed  by  the  amateur  or  the 
most  experienced  gardner.  It  is  a  volume  long  needed;  and  the  author's 
high  reputation  in  these  matters  v.'ill  insure  a  work  that  will  supply  every 
want. 


J.    E.   TILTON    &    CO.  S    PUBLICATIONS. 


"The  book  itself  in  a  flower,  — a  gem  of  typogrnphical  beauty.  Cer- 
tainly no  handsomer  guide-book  for  the  cultivation  of  flowers  has  ever  been 
published  in  this  country.  It  is  as  fresh  and  pleasant  to  look  upon  as  are 
the  arbutus  blossoms  which  are  now  putting  forth  their  white  and  pink 
bells  in  token  of  spring.  Mr.  Edward  Hand,  jun.,  could  not  have  put  his 
name  upon  a  more  memorable  page  than  upon  the  title  leaf  of  his  exquisite 
book  upon  the  culture  of  flowers.  No  space  is  occupied  with  useless  poeti- 
cal quotations  and  rhapsodies;  but  every  thing  is  plain,  practical,  and  valu- 
ble.  Itis  just  what  it  professes  to  be,  —  a  guide-book  for  the  garden.  Every 
lady  can  own  it,  and  feel  assured  that  she  is,  for  one,  favoring  nothing'  of 
politics,  war,  or  sensation-literature.  She  has  that  which  can  make  every 
one  happier,  and  the  world  brighter.  Of  course,  those  ladies  who  are  too 
exquisite  to  cultivate  flowers  will  not  care  for  its  instructions ;  but  every 
true  woman  who  would  make  home  pleasanter,  more  genial  and  cheerful, 
and  herself  more  refined  in  the  highest  sense  of  the  world,  will  welcome 
any  help  in  the  culture  of  her  flowers."  —  The  Hound  Table. 

Extra  muslin .*3  00 

Half-calf 5.00 

Half-morocco,  gilt  top      .        .        .  5.00 

Turkey  antique G.OO 


J.    E.    TILTON    &    CO.'S    PUBLICATIONS. 


THE     PARLOR     GARDENER. 


A  Treatise  on  the  House  Culture  of  Ornamental  Plants.  ,  Translated 
from  the  French,  and  adapted  to  American  use.  By  Cornelia  J.  Ran- 
dolph, of  Virginia.    With  eleven  illustrative  cuts. 

A  bijou  of  a  book.  Every  lady  who  cultivates  flowers  will  want  a  copy. 
It  will  teacli  them  how  to  brinf?  a  bit  of  nature  into  all  their  homes,  and  give 
them  in  their  parlors  some  of  the  pleasures  of  out-door  life.  It  contains 
minute  directions  for  "  the  mantle-piece  garden,"  the  "  etagere  garden," 
"  the  flower-stand  garden,"  "  the  portable  green-house,"  "  the  house  aqua- 
rium," the  garden  upon  the  balcony,  the  terrace,  and  the  double  window, 
besides  describing  many  curious  and  interesting  experiments  in  grafting. 
The  book  is  neatly  printed,  beautifully  illustrated,  and  is  just  the  size  for  a 
pocket  companion. 

Price $1.00 


